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Old 04-22-2016, 09:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
Torque655
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Stucker starter bolt

Last night, truck decided it would just make grinding noises instead of start which started the starter replacement. I hope the flywheel is still good.

So I've driven this truck 8K miles since I bought it and fairly sure the starter bolt situation was exactly like I just found it the whole time. One entire bolt is sheared off at the block and gone. One had two nuts on it but the head was gone. And the front bracket bolt was in there, but I unscrewed the bolt with my fingers and when I pulled it out, the there are two places on that front bracket bolt where the threads have been smoothed out. I was yanking on that upper nut on the starter bolt pretty hard, then tapping it with a hammer, then yanking...etc for a good 45 minutes and nothing except lightly chewed up fingers. I assume its normal lefty loosey??

So I got new bolts on order and got an advanced auto starter waiting in the box.


So here is my question. How would you guys get this out? I sprayed some PB blaster up there 2 hours before I tried to remove it. I just sprayed some again and will try again in the morning.

I see two real options and either way I have to do one of the following with the trans cooler lines since they are directly under the bolt.
1. Use a ziptie and tighten the lines 1/2" out of the way(kinda risky as pretty close to drill bit)
2. Disconnect the lines at the trans and ziptie out of the way
3. Remove lines completely

I assume 2 & 3 require to flush the trans?

Once the lines are out of the way, I would first try the bolt extractor (although i don't expect it to work with the apparent torque thats needed as my drill is just a basic 20V craftsman). I expect to have to drill the bolt material off to get the starter off. Hopefully my bits are long enough.

Any tips to loosen that or shear it off like the other? Can't remove the starter as is.

Starter bolt.jpg

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Old 04-22-2016, 09:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
Glagulator
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Is it the double nut you cannot get off?
If so you need 2 wrenches, hold the upper one with one wrench and remove
the bottom nut with the other. The longer the wrenches the fewer knuckles
will get busted. A socket with a long breakover will also help.

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Old 04-22-2016, 09:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Once tension is off the bolt will unscrew by hand... unless it's extremely rusty.
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Old 04-22-2016, 09:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
Torque655
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No. I tightened them together just today and was using a wrench on the top one to try to twist the whole bolt (now stud without the head) loose. Thought I'd give the two nut stud removal method a try. No luck so far. On there pretty tight. If i wanted just the nuts off, no problem. The old bolt/stud is what is stuck.
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1996 K1500 Suburban 6.5/4L80e 8 lug 3.42 gears--"the build"
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SOLD--1996 GMC k1500 z71 373k miles--, 506 block, 3-4" Diamond eye exhaust, 3.73, K47 upgrade, PTWS battery cables, Lubrication Specialists Oil Cooler/Lines, A Team Turbo, KOJO tune, vacuum pump delete, full "F" manifold swap for EGR delete, Boost/Pyro/Fuel Pressure Gauges, Heath 4wd PMD, 01 Dmax Alternator, '98 HO water pump, 285/75/16 BFG all terrains on MB razor wheels



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Last edited by Torque655; 04-22-2016 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
Glagulator
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Ok, I get it now.
So if you remove the nuts the starter will not drop off?
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99 CREW LONG SRW C3500 work truck 199k+ mi. orig. motor & trans 4.10, modded engine harness, new oil cooler & lines, all new front end parts and poly bushings, trans poly mount, all new brakes.
96 SUBURBAN K2500 wife's truck 210k+ mi. orig. motor & trans, 3.73...
95 C2500 Suburban 6.5td HO w/p, timing set, HB & pulley, all rubber hoses, modded engine harness, PMD to bumper...
95 C1500 Suburban 6.5td rebuild tranny, convert to DB2, replacing as many parts as I can.
96 C2500 Suburban 7.4L converting to 6.5td w/ DB2, 4L80, 3.73
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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no it wont cause the transmission belly pan is in the way.... what i have done before is welded one of the nuts right onto the threaded rod, but keep the second nut on there in case the other nut breaks part of the threaded rod, and then let cool completely, then tighten the other nut to the one you welded for a little more thread support. use a 1/2" breaker bar with the proper size socket... impact socket if you have one, less chance of splitting under pressure... then tug on it. dont use fast hard tug cause you can actually snap it up right at the engine which sucks. start pulling gradually then harder till it starts breaking loose. hope this helps
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Why are you not using the correct starter bolts? Is that rod welded in or something? Guessing you had block damage? Im a little confused.
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my guess would be shocks
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Really, that "bolt" looks more like a stud to me, somebody's repair job.
That's why I would get the starter off, that stud could be welded to the block or
who know what. Just unbolt the TC cover, it probably will not come all the way off due to the crossover pipe but should allow the starter to drop down. Then see what you got.
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99 CREW LONG SRW C3500 work truck 199k+ mi. orig. motor & trans 4.10, modded engine harness, new oil cooler & lines, all new front end parts and poly bushings, trans poly mount, all new brakes.
96 SUBURBAN K2500 wife's truck 210k+ mi. orig. motor & trans, 3.73...
95 C2500 Suburban 6.5td HO w/p, timing set, HB & pulley, all rubber hoses, modded engine harness, PMD to bumper...
95 C1500 Suburban 6.5td rebuild tranny, convert to DB2, replacing as many parts as I can.
96 C2500 Suburban 7.4L converting to 6.5td w/ DB2, 4L80, 3.73
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Why are you not using the correct starter bolts? Is that rod welded in or something? Guessing it had block damage? Im a little confused. The transmission won't require a flush if you disconnect the lines because the filter picks up the fluid from the pan just will have to top off. I would just pull them to the side gently and bungee them away because unless they are very rusty you'll be fine. if you can get the flexplate cover off wont the starter drop down I forget if the bell is in the way. If you cant get those nuts off that rod then you have to cut them off. Might be a pain if it won't drop all the way may have to then cut the bolt above the starter if it drops enough. Then again there is the factor of having enough room.
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81 Riviera 5.7 Donor vehicle for The 82 Park Ave Compliments of 57Diesel
82 C10 2WD 6.2 Parts Truck
91 Suburban 2500 4x4 6.2 Bad Transmission
85 Cadillac Deville factory 4.3 Oldsmobile Diesel
91 GMC Sierra K1500 6.2 NA Bad Transmission
94 K3500 CC DRW 6.5TD All the normal stuff done. DE exhaust Custom Parker Racor Rust free beauty
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my guess would be shocks
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Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.

Last edited by JCDiesel; 04-22-2016 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 04-22-2016, 11:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
Torque655
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Dont have a welder Crazy but Id think JB Weld will be sufficient for this?

Don't have room for a socket without removing the trans cooler lines. I have a racheting box wrench I've been using, either 8" or 10"

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