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Torque655 04-22-2016 10:03 PM

Stucker starter bolt
 
1 Attachment(s)
Last night, truck decided it would just make grinding noises instead of start which started the starter replacement. I hope the flywheel is still good.

So I've driven this truck 8K miles since I bought it and fairly sure the starter bolt situation was exactly like I just found it the whole time. One entire bolt is sheared off at the block and gone. One had two nuts on it but the head was gone. And the front bracket bolt was in there, but I unscrewed the bolt with my fingers and when I pulled it out, the there are two places on that front bracket bolt where the threads have been smoothed out. I was yanking on that upper nut on the starter bolt pretty hard, then tapping it with a hammer, then yanking...etc for a good 45 minutes and nothing except lightly chewed up fingers. I assume its normal lefty loosey??

So I got new bolts on order and got an advanced auto starter waiting in the box.


So here is my question. How would you guys get this out? I sprayed some PB blaster up there 2 hours before I tried to remove it. I just sprayed some again and will try again in the morning.

I see two real options and either way I have to do one of the following with the trans cooler lines since they are directly under the bolt.
1. Use a ziptie and tighten the lines 1/2" out of the way(kinda risky as pretty close to drill bit)
2. Disconnect the lines at the trans and ziptie out of the way
3. Remove lines completely

I assume 2 & 3 require to flush the trans?

Once the lines are out of the way, I would first try the bolt extractor (although i don't expect it to work with the apparent torque thats needed as my drill is just a basic 20V craftsman). I expect to have to drill the bolt material off to get the starter off. Hopefully my bits are long enough.

Any tips to loosen that or shear it off like the other? Can't remove the starter as is.

Attachment 457689

Glagulator 04-22-2016 10:20 PM

Is it the double nut you cannot get off?
If so you need 2 wrenches, hold the upper one with one wrench and remove
the bottom nut with the other. The longer the wrenches the fewer knuckles
will get busted. A socket with a long breakover will also help.

vstech 04-22-2016 10:24 PM

Once tension is off the bolt will unscrew by hand... unless it's extremely rusty.

Torque655 04-22-2016 10:27 PM

No. I tightened them together just today and was using a wrench on the top one to try to twist the whole bolt (now stud without the head) loose. Thought I'd give the two nut stud removal method a try. No luck so far. On there pretty tight. If i wanted just the nuts off, no problem. The old bolt/stud is what is stuck.

Glagulator 04-22-2016 11:20 PM

Ok, I get it now.
So if you remove the nuts the starter will not drop off?

Crazyxxxinsane 04-22-2016 11:35 PM

110 Attachment(s)
no it wont cause the transmission belly pan is in the way.... what i have done before is welded one of the nuts right onto the threaded rod, but keep the second nut on there in case the other nut breaks part of the threaded rod, and then let cool completely, then tighten the other nut to the one you welded for a little more thread support. use a 1/2" breaker bar with the proper size socket... impact socket if you have one, less chance of splitting under pressure... then tug on it. dont use fast hard tug cause you can actually snap it up right at the engine which sucks. start pulling gradually then harder till it starts breaking loose. hope this helps

JCDiesel 04-22-2016 11:43 PM

Why are you not using the correct starter bolts? Is that rod welded in or something? Guessing you had block damage? Im a little confused.

Glagulator 04-22-2016 11:50 PM

Really, that "bolt" looks more like a stud to me, somebody's repair job.
That's why I would get the starter off, that stud could be welded to the block or
who know what. Just unbolt the TC cover, it probably will not come all the way off due to the crossover pipe but should allow the starter to drop down. Then see what you got.

JCDiesel 04-22-2016 11:51 PM

Why are you not using the correct starter bolts? Is that rod welded in or something? Guessing it had block damage? Im a little confused. The transmission won't require a flush if you disconnect the lines because the filter picks up the fluid from the pan just will have to top off. I would just pull them to the side gently and bungee them away because unless they are very rusty you'll be fine. if you can get the flexplate cover off wont the starter drop down I forget if the bell is in the way. If you cant get those nuts off that rod then you have to cut them off. Might be a pain if it won't drop all the way may have to then cut the bolt above the starter if it drops enough. Then again there is the factor of having enough room.

Torque655 04-23-2016 12:36 AM

Dont have a welder Crazy but Id think JB Weld will be sufficient for this?

Don't have room for a socket without removing the trans cooler lines. I have a racheting box wrench I've been using, either 8" or 10"


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