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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 03-21-2016, 11:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommygunner View Post
Word of warning... Do Not Use an IMPACT Wrench on a crankshaft! Very bad... Very bad for the crankshaft. Like in breaking it. Also never hammer a HB on a crankshaft.
Might as well hold the crank out in front of you and drop it on the floor.
A big fat +1.

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Old 03-22-2016, 01:11 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I made this tool, bolt it to the HB and get a long cheater bar. No impacts.


https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/***...65hbwrench.jpg

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Old 03-22-2016, 07:47 AM   #13 (permalink)
MyShibby65TD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommygunner View Post
Word of warning... Do Not Use an IMPACT Wrench on a crankshaft! Very bad... Very bad for the crankshaft. Like in breaking it. Also never hammer a HB on a crankshaft.
Might as well hold the crank out in front of you and drop it on the floor.
That's why I didn't keep using it. It seemed everyone on every forum ever (including this one) and youtube used impacts to get the bolts off, just not put them on. I'm still wary about any damage I may have done for the couple seconds I used mine. I guess I will find out.
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Old 03-22-2016, 02:24 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I don't think you hurt it for a couple of seconds. I was just warning you and anyone else who reads this thread. Reasons cranks break is from repeated impact, or one big one.(Like dropping it). Impacts line up the iron molecules in nice little rows. Over time cracks form between these rows. Then the crank breaks in two.
Yes I know a lot of people use impacts to remove the crank bolt and things are ok. But it is still not a good idea. Why take the chance? Just because you see it on U tube does not mean its right. I see a lot of stupid stuff there. LOL
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Old 03-22-2016, 08:44 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MyShibby65TD View Post
This worked great! Here's a picture of what I did for any future readers. I kind of regret putting the impact on it now as it may have done damage that I won't see for another 1000 miles, but hopefully all is good.

Time to reassemble, which I'll be doing the same way when I torque it down. The wrench I used was a huge 1-5/16" (I think). It's whatever the pitman nut size is since I just changed that as well.
Good to hear! Glad it worked.
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:22 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommygunner View Post
Impacts line up the iron molecules in nice little rows. Over time cracks form between these rows. Then the crank breaks in two.
I did not know this about iron, this is really good to know!

Another tidbit for future readers, the front seal was stuck really good. To remove it I hammered/tapped some long deck screws into it (to get started, then screwed in), and used the HB puller in the same fashion to pull the seal out (washers around the screws). I also packed the backside of the seal with grease, and the mating surfaces of the HB and seal to prevent it from rubbing dry. The HB can also be gently tapped on with a rubber mallet to get started, and then use the puller in reverse by spinning the duck foot down onto the HB face until the crankshaft bolt/washer can grab and pull it the rest of the way.

So far the new harmonic balancer and pulley are installed and I can put everything back. I didn't realize how much torque 200ftlb was until I had to use my legs to make it click. There's virtually no room to do that by hand laying on the ground and against a wall.
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Old 03-24-2016, 10:44 AM   #17 (permalink)
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So a question about the harmonic balancer. It looks like it's made out of complete metal, I'm guessing so the weight acts as a dampener of sorts to any harmonics. My old one had a slight wobble and that's what prompted me to replace it. The new one, however, has the exact same wobble to it. You almost have to watch it relative to the engine around it to really see it. The pulley, though, spins perfectly.

Did I get a bad balancer? The only thing I can think of as to why both the old and the new have the same type of wobble is 1) they're both bad in the same way, 2) the crankshaft is not true at the end anymore. Any ideas? Should I be worried? I'll upload a video later.
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4" DE, trans cooler & 8AN lines, 10AN oil cooler lines, nylon fuel lines, AD244, LB7 fan, Medallion marine injectors, OPS relay, glow plug override, OPS override
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Old 03-24-2016, 01:19 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyShibby65TD View Post
So a question about the harmonic balancer. It looks like it's made out of complete metal, I'm guessing so the weight acts as a dampener of sorts to any harmonics. My old one had a slight wobble and that's what prompted me to replace it. The new one, however, has the exact same wobble to it. You almost have to watch it relative to the engine around it to really see it. The pulley, though, spins perfectly.

Did I get a bad balancer? The only thing I can think of as to why both the old and the new have the same type of wobble is 1) they're both bad in the same way, 2) the crankshaft is not true at the end anymore. Any ideas? Should I be worried? I'll upload a video later.
a wobble you can see? wow.

please take a video of this, and post it up here.

the crank balancer is two pieces of metal with a rubber spacer between them the outer rubber ring will oscillate with a dampening frequency to the pulsations of the ignition cycles... sortof...
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Old 03-24-2016, 01:23 PM   #19 (permalink)
davester
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it just visually wobbles or you've got a vibration?

And they look solid, but they normally are two pieces with a thin strip of rubber wedging them together [or it may be a metal center with plastic on the outside]. This is why you need to use a special puller instead of a 'regular' one with jaws along the outside of the balancer [if you use a regular one, you generally wind up just pulling off the outside portion, wrecking the balancer, not that I have ever done this].
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Old 03-24-2016, 01:51 PM   #20 (permalink)
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FYI: the harmonic balancer is not the round circle thing infront of the engine, it's actually behind it and it's very hard to inspect.
You need to have the engine running to see if it wobbles.

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