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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 03-21-2016, 03:57 AM   #41 (permalink)
HeavyChevy95
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Do not unbolt the IP, otherwise you'll be doing TDCO too.... Removal of the lower intake is necessary to remove all the hardlines from the backside of the IP. IIRC, theres an order for hardline removal, more so for installation so you dont work yourself into a corner.

If you haven't already. Good time to replace all the rubber hoses under the intake while you have unfettered access.
3- 24" long 1/4" ID fuel hose, IP supply, WIF petcock and WIF drain (-8" for main return hose under FFM housing.
1- 24" long 3/8" ID fuel hose, FFM supply

Might even want to rebuild the FFM housing while its out, consist of a couple o-rings...

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Old 03-21-2016, 07:20 PM   #42 (permalink)
MSF
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Hard to say from the video if that noise is metallic or just air "puffing" but I have a similar issue. Mine is a puff through the intake, and I suspect a valve or lifter sticking. If a compression test is inconclusive, you can pull the intake and (run to) see which cylinder is the culprit, then tear down from there. Good luck.

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Old 03-22-2016, 07:41 PM   #43 (permalink)
LordImpala
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Thanks heavychevy for all the diagrams. Here are the rockers. All the clips are in place on the passenger side.
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Old 03-29-2016, 07:40 PM   #44 (permalink)
LordImpala
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Hey Heavy,

I am back on the wagon. Took a couple of days off to regroup. I pulled all the injectors. I'm going to harbor freight to pickup a diesel pressure kit. I'll post the numbers as soon as I get them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyChevy95 View Post
Do not unbolt the IP, otherwise you'll be doing TDCO too.... Removal of the lower intake is necessary to remove all the hardlines from the backside of the IP. IIRC, theres an order for hardline removal, more so for installation so you dont work yourself into a corner.

If you haven't already. Good time to replace all the rubber hoses under the intake while you have unfettered access.
3- 24" long 1/4" ID fuel hose, IP supply, WIF petcock and WIF drain (-8" for main return hose under FFM housing.
1- 24" long 3/8" ID fuel hose, FFM supply

Might even want to rebuild the FFM housing while its out, consist of a couple o-rings...
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Old 03-31-2016, 07:45 PM   #45 (permalink)
LordImpala
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Hey Guys,


I have some numbers now. My battery ran low while testing 5, and still need 7. I have the charger on it. Here are the numbers. Is this motor done??

2- 390
4- 80psi 100 psi wet
6- 380
8- 380

1- 360
3- 330
5- 290 low battery
7- ????
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Old 04-01-2016, 07:03 AM   #46 (permalink)
HeavyChevy95
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Lets not get hasty..

IIRC, cylinder #3 is on the drivers side, 2nd from the front. Clean injector was found on the passenger side, #4 I take it.. hmmm opposite of..

Cylinder number, Firing order

The PCM has the ability to derate or turn off individual cylinder(s)..

Might want to go 'head and pull drivers valve cover while your this deep, if you havent already.

Did you do your comp test with the rocker cover(s) off or...... Curious if you were able to observe the valvetrain, signs of a flat cam lobe or excessively lose push rods that may be bent.

Sugggest you keep track of which injector(s) came from which cylinder(s)?
A quick pop test may reveal faulty injector(s) behind the cylinder imbalances.




The compression test on 6.5s are often misleading, dare I say inaccurate especially if your not on top of s'it..

The engine is supposed to be brought up to operating temp before the test. Good luck removing the injectors or glowplugs without burning the pooh out yourself. I would suggest strategically placing a space heater to pre-heat the block and oil pan (oil) an hour or two before you begin as to maintain a consistant elevated engine temp throughout the test..

The batteries must be fully charged so that the starter spins the engine over with extreme ease. I would top 'em off between each cylinder if not every other.
The engine needs to turn over half dozen revolutions or more per test. Doing a leak down test also?

Several things can account for the low #s. bent pushrod, bent valve, cracked valve and/or seat, blown head gasket, etc etc etc. all not necessarily terminal ...

FWIW. COMPRESSION TEST
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Old 04-01-2016, 12:46 PM   #47 (permalink)
LordImpala
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Hey Heavy,

Thanks for staying with the thread. I just remembered that I have a block heater. I don't need it in socal, but the truck came from lake shasta.
I have the valve cover off on the even bank side that is giving me trouble. The rockers are moving, but I had my wife looking at them when I was cranking for the compression test. If I remove the two bolts on the rockers. Can I safely check to see if the rockers rods are bent? Let me know.
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Old 04-01-2016, 12:48 PM   #48 (permalink)
LordImpala
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I was reading about doing the leak test over the weekend. Should I check the rocker rods first, or do the leak test?

Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyChevy95 View Post
Lets not get hasty..

IIRC, cylinder #3 is on the drivers side, 2nd from the front. Clean injector was found on the passenger side, #4 I take it.. hmmm opposite of..

Cylinder number, Firing order

The PCM has the ability to derate or turn off individual cylinder(s)..

Might want to go 'head and pull drivers valve cover while your this deep, if you havent already.

Did you do your comp test with the rocker cover(s) off or...... Curious if you were able to observe the valvetrain, signs of a flat cam lobe or excessively lose push rods that may be bent.

Sugggest you keep track of which injector(s) came from which cylinder(s)?
A quick pop test may reveal faulty injector(s) behind the cylinder imbalances.




The compression test on 6.5s are often misleading, dare I say inaccurate especially if your not on top of s'it..

The engine is supposed to be brought up to operating temp before the test. Good luck removing the injectors or glowplugs without burning the pooh out yourself. I would suggest strategically placing a space heater to pre-heat the block and oil pan (oil) an hour or two before you begin as to maintain a consistant elevated engine temp throughout the test..

The batteries must be fully charged so that the starter spins the engine over with extreme ease. I would top 'em off between each cylinder if not every other.
The engine needs to turn over half dozen revolutions or more per test. Doing a leak down test also?

Several things can account for the low #s. bent pushrod, bent valve, cracked valve and/or seat, blown head gasket, etc etc etc. all not necessarily terminal ...

FWIW. COMPRESSION TEST
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Old 04-01-2016, 01:03 PM   #49 (permalink)
sctrailrider
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If you remove the rocker shafts you can check the push rods, just roll them on something flat, you'll see quick if any are bent..

While all the shafts are off you could do a leak down on each cly while everything should be closed...

If all shows good thus far, put rocker's back on, then warm the motor & check compression...
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Old 04-01-2016, 02:35 PM   #50 (permalink)
Sirleitet
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Remember which order the push rods came out from, or you're gonna have a hard time after.

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