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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 02-10-2016, 06:45 PM   #21 (permalink)
358258
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Quote:
I ran into the same thing. Just take your time and knock out the list one by one. Oil cooler hoses, harmonic balancer, glow plugs, cooling tower flush, etc. When trucks have been neglected or the P.O. didn't know any better, its a lot to do up front. The reality is, the truck will be awesome and reliable after a month or two of bringing it "up to snuff".
Thanks man, seriously that makes me feel a lot better. What do I really expect after 276K miles? I can almost feel myself getting more sensitive to weird vibrations/sounds ect. the more things I find need fixed on her. Just upsetting when you thought you finally found the truck you've wanted since I was 13, and it turns out its sort of limping.

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Old 02-10-2016, 09:18 PM   #22 (permalink)
gimpyrobb
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The way I see it, I could spend $50-60 thousand on a new truck, or "make right" things on a truck I've wanted for a long time for less than $10,000. I've always liked this body style and have accepted its not going to have the power of a bombed Cummins, but I couldn't afford the fuel for one anyway. There is no truck that I wouldn't modify, so I will make my truck mine.

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Old 02-10-2016, 10:19 PM   #23 (permalink)
JCDiesel
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I didnt pay attention to signage. Now that you mention I see hes a c class correct no adapter seals needed. Win win.
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Originally Posted by smackzed View Post
my guess would be shocks
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Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.
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Old 02-11-2016, 09:21 AM   #24 (permalink)
guybb3
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You could also put a halogen work light under the truck, pointed up at the oil pan, that would keep things warm if you had it under there for a few hours.
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Old 02-11-2016, 11:51 AM   #25 (permalink)
Tommygunner
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Yeah the halogen lights help when working in the cold. They put out a lot of heat for a quick hand warm up.
I would bang out the fixit list one by one. Starting with the block heater. It is an easy job.
This makes the job a lot easier: Drain coolant. Not all the coolant will drain out of the block. So drill a small hole in the bottom of the Block heater. This will allow the rest of the coolant to drain out the hole. So you dont get a coolant bath when you pull the heater out of the block. Then unscrew the little screw in the middle of the heater The hole also gives you something to stick a screw driver in and pry out the heater. Makes the job fast and easy.
As far as the other stuff. Just keep a close eye on the cooler lines. Make sure the leak does not get worse. When you do the block heater inspect where they go into the block. make sure the clips/fittings are not rusted out. If Ok they could wait till warmer weather. Replacing the lines will take a while the job is worse in 0 degree weather.
Look at the harmonic balancer and pulley. If the rubber on both is intact and good. plus you cant move the pulley back and forth by hand with the belt loose. you should be Ok. till warmer weather. If the rubber is gone or bad in either HB or pulley. Replace NOW! or you can break a crankshaft.
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Old 02-11-2016, 06:37 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I actually used one of those halogen lights to keep the oil warm last night. It worked pretty well actually. I think my 600 CCA a piece batteries are a severe part of the hard start problem. Thanks guys. The words of encouragement really do help a guy who is very much feeling overwhelmed right now. I can't tell you all thanks enough.
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Old 02-12-2016, 07:30 AM   #27 (permalink)
guybb3
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^ Ya I agree. Batteries aren't strong enough. Glad the light thing helped you out
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Oilguard bypass oil filter with additional permacool dual remote oil filters adapted to take two 1 1/2 quart Mobil 1 m1-403 filters---10.5 quart capacity now
B&M Deep Tranny Pan
Remote fuel filter with 1R-0749 CAT 2 micron filter or Donaldson P551000 and 200 watt electric pad heater
Walbro FRB-5 Lift Pump
Dipaco Remote FSD with #9 resistor behind bumper
1999 High capacity (opt K47) Air box-Amsoil EaO filter
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Old 02-12-2016, 02:43 PM   #28 (permalink)
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you want at LEAST 1000CA 850CCA batteries for these trucks, you got the glow plugs pulling juice to heat up, then you got that beasty starter cranking a higher compression engine. when u got starter speed, along with glow plug heat, it makes a HUGE difference on starting capability.
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Old 02-13-2016, 04:05 AM   #29 (permalink)
Jonno_G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tugboat94 View Post
The factory oil cooler lines are garbage and the little clip that holds tye line to the fitting goes bad and you lose all your oil in about 10 seconds and booooooooom your engine goes bye bye it is common belief on this forum that you have to change them Or your engine is gonna die
I actually had this happen to mine about four days after I bought it. Thankfully I noticed it as the oil pressure gauge was dropping and shut it off immediately and avoided damage.

Anyway, being in Australia I couldn't easily get new clips so I replaced them with 'E-clip' type circlips. Works brilliantly!
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Old 02-13-2016, 03:56 PM   #30 (permalink)
mbost
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gimpyrobb View Post
The way I see it, I could spend $50-60 thousand on a new truck, or "make right" things on a truck I've wanted for a long time for less than $10,000. I've always liked this body style and have accepted its not going to have the power of a bombed Cummins, but I couldn't afford the fuel for one anyway. There is no truck that I wouldn't modify, so I will make my truck mine.

Can you convince my wife of that please?

By the way OP, these trucks are great. They can take a bit to get right, but once there, are usually problem free and reliable. Just like any older vehicle, they do require a little more up keep. Just keep knocking things out one at the time and you'll have a beauty in no time. Good luck.

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Engines: Mobil 5W40 Synthetic W/Fleetguard Filters. NV4500: Redline MT 85. GM14, GM10, SM465 and NP205: Royal Purple 85W140. GMTD Scan Tech

Last edited by mbost; 02-13-2016 at 03:57 PM.
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