DIY: How To: Replace your hydraulic clutch line with metal line - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
 
Home Forum Market Place Garage Tuning Library DTC Tool Register Vendors
Go Back   Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums > GM Diesel Engines > 6.5L Diesel Engine
Register FAQ Forum Rules My Replies My Threads Mark Forums Read Advertise

6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

DieselPlace.com is the premier Duramax Diesel Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Like Tree8Likes
  • 2 Post By mbost
  • 1 Post By mbost
  • 1 Post By sctrailrider
  • 1 Post By Freddyack
  • 1 Post By grabowski
  • 2 Post By 1967KaiserM715

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 01-09-2016, 11:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
mbost
Diesel Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Everson, WA
Posts: 312
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

Pacific Iron Mountain Truck Club Member

How To: Replace your hydraulic clutch line with metal line

So...I ran into a problem with my plastic hydraulic brake line, for the 100th time in a year. I gave up. I installed a solid metal brake line in place of the two metal lines and plastic line. I hope this will help somebody out. Total cost to me was $18 as I already had everything except the hard line. I also purchased a 1 foot section of tubing and coupler "just in case" and ended up not needing either. I purchased everything at NAPA.

Tools: 1/4" drive ratchet
13 mm socket, deep
10 mm socket, deep
1/2" open end wrench (brake line wrench preferred)
27/64" drill bit
1/2"x20 tap (bottoming tap preferred)
Tap wrench of choice
small hammer
1/8" punch
Drill press with at least a 1/2" chuck
Cold 6 pack of your chosen beverage (Yes, its a tool)

Supplies: Brake fluid
Brake parts cleaner
5/16" Hard brake line of your chosen length with US fittings
Rubber padded steel clamps (Adel Clamps)
self tapping sheet metal screws
Teflon plumbers tape

Prerequisites: You must have a general knowledge of how to use the above listed tools, correctly and safely.
You must have the cast aluminum clutch master and slave cylinders.


First step: Accumulate your tools, supplies. Drink a beer.

Second step: Remove your clutch master and slave cylinder.
Do this by removing the cotter pin installed through the roll pins that hold the lines in place, and then punch out the roll pin with a small hammer and 1/8" punch. Next remove the two 13mm nuts that hold the slave cylinder in place, remove the slave cylinder and set it aside. Remove the two 13mm nuts that hold the master cylinder in place, and tap the push rod free of the clutch pedal. Slide the master cylinder forward from under the hood, and set it aside. Remove and set in a very safe place your rubber gaskets from the ends of the lines. They may still be in your cylinders. You need these for later. These gaskets are not, in my experience, procurable by themselves. If you lose them, or they are bad, you will have to go buy a new master and slave cylinder combo. Drink a beer.

Third step: Find your routing and get your tubing length and diameter figured out.
I realized after I removed the master and slave cylinder, that the holes that were in the units were the exact same size needed in order to tap them for 1/2"x20 pipe thread, furthermore, if you go larger than 1/2"x20, the material thickness will be so little that it may not hold up over time. This is why I chose 5/16" brake line with US thread fittings. If you want the smaller 3/16" brake line (like the plastic line ID), you will need additional adapters. After having completing this job, you really cant feel much of a difference. It is a little easier to push the pedal, but not enough to be an advantage. It is harder to bleed this size line however, so a smaller line ID may be wanted for that reason alone. I choose a 5 foot length of brake line for my truck. This provided the advantage that I could choose the routing I desired without having so much extra that I had to invent routing (and create potential air pockets). I can route the line behind and under the engine/trans, or I can run the line under the engine with the suspension cross member (I have a 2 wheel drive truck). If you use a 4 foot section of tubing you can still route under the engine, but your bends will be tighter than mine, and fit the profile of the cross member better. If you run a 6 foot section you can route in exactly the same places and bends as stock. If you go for an 8 foot section you can route alongside the radiator to prevent potential brush clearance issues (4x4 guys may consider this). Drink a beer.

Fourth step: Drill your holes and tap them.
Drill your holes about 1/8" deeper than what is currently in place. Be really super careful here. If you drill too deep you will NOT have a surface to seal your brake line, and may drill into the cylinder piston area. If you do this, you will need a new cylinder. If you do not drill these holes deeper, you will have leaks due to the roll pin holes. Tap your holes as deep as you can. I only had a standard tap available, a bottoming tap is much preferred. Otherwise you end up having to over torque the brake fittings to get them to seal. When you are done drilling and tapping, clean everything out really well. Any shavings left will cause problems later on. Test fit your line to your cylinders and make sure that when it is tight, the line cannot wiggle or rotate in any direction. Don't forget to place the rubber gasket into the hole when you test fit. This rubber gasket is what is going to actually seal the connection. Drink a beer.

Fifth step: Routing your brake line.
Re-install your master cylinder and slave cylinder. Make your first bends by eye and guess work. It doesn't have to be perfect, just good enough to fit in the engine bay approximately where you want it to end up. After your initial bends, route the line approximately where you want it. Put some Teflon tape on the ends of the brake line nuts to help insure a leak free install. Install your rubber gasket into the master cylinder and install your line. Tighten this connection. Now, go through and finalize your line routing. I made all of my bends by hand without a tubing bender. This larger line is really easy to bend without kinking so a bender was not required. Try to keep at least a 1 inch clearance between your line and anything that vibrates/moves so that your line doesn't get chaffed through over time. Secure your line however you wish. I will be installing Adel clamps along my run to keep it form vibrating too much and causing it to fracture later on. ZIP TIES WILL NOT WORK!!! So don't try it. Padded steel clamps are cheap at home depot. Be careful how you secure your line. Remember that the engine/trans moves with torque application, the frame/body doesn't (so don't secure at both sides). After you have your routing finalized and secure, make your connection at the slave cylinder (don't forget the gasket) and tighten the connection. Drink a beer.

Sixth step: Bleed your system and enjoy a worry free, hassle free, no leak hydraulic clutch system. No more beer, you're driving after all.

In the future, I will probably install a brake bleeder into the port that the current hex screw is located. I will then weld the bleed hole closed. I ran out of time this time around.

I hope this post is helpful, sorry I didn't get any "during" photos. I was trying to get the job done as fast as possible before the sun went down and the temps dropped again. And I just plain forgot. But here are some pictures of the final install. Please excuse the messy under hood area. Someday Ill get the time to clean her up and make her look good. But she is a work truck, not a show truck.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20160109_164856269.jpg (42.1 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20160109_164906621.jpg (43.6 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20160109_165051472.jpg (57.1 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20160109_164951716.jpg (40.4 KB, 6 views)
__________________
"Beast" 1984 D10 M1009 CUCV 6.2 J code 412586.4 miles and counting.
Gear Drive Timing Set, IP turned up, Cam/IP timing advanced, 6.5 Marine Injectors, K&N Air filter, SM465, NP205, 3.08 Gears, 33" Tires, 6" Lift/Dual Front Shocks, P/S Cooler & Filter installed, Aftermarket Oil Cooler, ARP Head Studs, 6.5 Head Gaskets, 1" Rear Coolant Crossover, 97 6.5 engine fan/clutch, 6.5 Electric Lift Pump. 6.5 Filter Housing, 6.5 GM4 Turbo 10 psi, AD244, 6.5 Serp Belt System
SOLD "Cinnamon" 1994 C3500 Crew Cab 4 door 6.5 F code

"Mickey" 1993 K3500 Crew Cab 4 door SRW 6.5TD & 4L80E 4.10 gears 219404 miles.
Diamond eye exhaust 4", 3" DP, and 2.5" crossover, AFE oiled cold intake system, Leroys Lift pump and harness upgrade, GlowShift Boost Bolt and Gauges, Walking J FTB Kit.

Engines: Mobil 5W40 Synthetic W/Fleetguard Filters. NV4500: Redline MT 85. GM14, GM10, SM465 and NP205: Royal Purple 85W140. GMTD Scan Tech
Offline  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-12-2016, 01:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
mbost
Diesel Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Everson, WA
Posts: 312
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

Pacific Iron Mountain Truck Club Member

Followup: After 200 miles

So...Ive found the weak link in this set-up. You need to install a braided steel line/rubber line in-between the master cylinder and the hard line. Otherwise you end up having harmonics play havoc with your clutch pedal at certain RPM's. It just vibrates like crazy and produces a highly annoying sound. But, later on, it very well could brake the line at the fitting. So, when you figure your line length, subtract a foot and add a brake hose. Otherwise, absolutely no issues so far.

__________________
"Beast" 1984 D10 M1009 CUCV 6.2 J code 412586.4 miles and counting.
Gear Drive Timing Set, IP turned up, Cam/IP timing advanced, 6.5 Marine Injectors, K&N Air filter, SM465, NP205, 3.08 Gears, 33" Tires, 6" Lift/Dual Front Shocks, P/S Cooler & Filter installed, Aftermarket Oil Cooler, ARP Head Studs, 6.5 Head Gaskets, 1" Rear Coolant Crossover, 97 6.5 engine fan/clutch, 6.5 Electric Lift Pump. 6.5 Filter Housing, 6.5 GM4 Turbo 10 psi, AD244, 6.5 Serp Belt System
SOLD "Cinnamon" 1994 C3500 Crew Cab 4 door 6.5 F code

"Mickey" 1993 K3500 Crew Cab 4 door SRW 6.5TD & 4L80E 4.10 gears 219404 miles.
Diamond eye exhaust 4", 3" DP, and 2.5" crossover, AFE oiled cold intake system, Leroys Lift pump and harness upgrade, GlowShift Boost Bolt and Gauges, Walking J FTB Kit.

Engines: Mobil 5W40 Synthetic W/Fleetguard Filters. NV4500: Redline MT 85. GM14, GM10, SM465 and NP205: Royal Purple 85W140. GMTD Scan Tech
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-12-2016, 02:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
mbost
Diesel Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Everson, WA
Posts: 312
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

Pacific Iron Mountain Truck Club Member

NAPA P/N:UP 36503 plus a fitting to go from female 1/2"-20 to male 3/8"-24
Hose:$14.57
Fitting:$.69 at Hardware Sales
Or have a custom line made at a hydraulic shop:~$50
__________________
"Beast" 1984 D10 M1009 CUCV 6.2 J code 412586.4 miles and counting.
Gear Drive Timing Set, IP turned up, Cam/IP timing advanced, 6.5 Marine Injectors, K&N Air filter, SM465, NP205, 3.08 Gears, 33" Tires, 6" Lift/Dual Front Shocks, P/S Cooler & Filter installed, Aftermarket Oil Cooler, ARP Head Studs, 6.5 Head Gaskets, 1" Rear Coolant Crossover, 97 6.5 engine fan/clutch, 6.5 Electric Lift Pump. 6.5 Filter Housing, 6.5 GM4 Turbo 10 psi, AD244, 6.5 Serp Belt System
SOLD "Cinnamon" 1994 C3500 Crew Cab 4 door 6.5 F code

"Mickey" 1993 K3500 Crew Cab 4 door SRW 6.5TD & 4L80E 4.10 gears 219404 miles.
Diamond eye exhaust 4", 3" DP, and 2.5" crossover, AFE oiled cold intake system, Leroys Lift pump and harness upgrade, GlowShift Boost Bolt and Gauges, Walking J FTB Kit.

Engines: Mobil 5W40 Synthetic W/Fleetguard Filters. NV4500: Redline MT 85. GM14, GM10, SM465 and NP205: Royal Purple 85W140. GMTD Scan Tech
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-12-2016, 06:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
sctrailrider
Diesel Expert
 
sctrailrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: SC
Posts: 2,513
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

This company makes & sells braided steel clutch lines, you must tell them it's for a GM and have them make it 6-8" longer than for a cummins.... push pin fittings on both ends

Tennessee Diesel Power | CrewCab59
__________________
1993 K3500

owner Twisted Steel Performance
Head Porting, Ceramic coating

like us on Facebook




Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-12-2016, 09:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
Freddyack
Lead Moderator
Diesel Guru
 
Freddyack's Avatar
Added to DIY
__________________
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-12-2016, 10:59 AM   #6 (permalink)
mbost
Diesel Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Everson, WA
Posts: 312
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

Pacific Iron Mountain Truck Club Member

Thanks trailrider. LOL. I couldn't find anything like that before. That would be great for the guys that still have the plastic master/slave combo.

Thanks Freddyack.
__________________
"Beast" 1984 D10 M1009 CUCV 6.2 J code 412586.4 miles and counting.
Gear Drive Timing Set, IP turned up, Cam/IP timing advanced, 6.5 Marine Injectors, K&N Air filter, SM465, NP205, 3.08 Gears, 33" Tires, 6" Lift/Dual Front Shocks, P/S Cooler & Filter installed, Aftermarket Oil Cooler, ARP Head Studs, 6.5 Head Gaskets, 1" Rear Coolant Crossover, 97 6.5 engine fan/clutch, 6.5 Electric Lift Pump. 6.5 Filter Housing, 6.5 GM4 Turbo 10 psi, AD244, 6.5 Serp Belt System
SOLD "Cinnamon" 1994 C3500 Crew Cab 4 door 6.5 F code

"Mickey" 1993 K3500 Crew Cab 4 door SRW 6.5TD & 4L80E 4.10 gears 219404 miles.
Diamond eye exhaust 4", 3" DP, and 2.5" crossover, AFE oiled cold intake system, Leroys Lift pump and harness upgrade, GlowShift Boost Bolt and Gauges, Walking J FTB Kit.

Engines: Mobil 5W40 Synthetic W/Fleetguard Filters. NV4500: Redline MT 85. GM14, GM10, SM465 and NP205: Royal Purple 85W140. GMTD Scan Tech
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-12-2016, 12:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
grabowski
Whistle Pigs Are Cool
 
grabowski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: The Syncro Ranch
Posts: 2,446
iTrader Score: 2 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

The Suburban Club Member

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbost View Post
So...Ive found the weak link in this set-up. You need to install a braided steel line/rubber line in-between the master cylinder and the hard line. Otherwise you end up having harmonics play havoc with your clutch pedal at certain RPM's. It just vibrates like crazy and produces a highly annoying sound.
I had the same situation with my VDO copper boost line I used from the intake to the gauge pod. I slid some rubber hose, slit lengthwise, over the copper pipe and almost all the resonation was damped and almost no vibrations into the dash.
__________________
The highest recommendations are in Bold below
________
1985 GMC 6.2 manual 4x4 3/4+ton 64,013 miles (5-1-19)
______________
The Blowby Queen '94 Chevy 'burb Silverado K2500 4L80E 4.10. Quadstar Tuning.
Midland Diesel Las Vegas Diesel rebuilt 5221 Blue Label IP with ULSD Upgrade & rebuilt Bosch injectors @ 2200psi. 235-85 on 16" PYO alloys. Bilstein HDs, Hellwig rear sway bar. Heath TM. Fluidampr. S&B oiled filter Intake, Provent 200 W/catchcan. Bosch Duraterm GP W/PT Solutions GP harness. WJ FTB. AC Delco Tstat & Red Line Water Wetter. hxtasy PMD #2 resistor on Heath Isolator 4. LS 1/2" oil cooler & lines. OPS Relay Mod & Leroys Hose. Diamond Eye exhaust. Heath 2.5" crossover. W/T Grille. VDO EGT & Vac/Boost gauge with copper line & Leroys Boost Bolt.


- 12-13-16 Out Of Commission @ 194,680k, 50 miles after Teds Mil Takeout Install. Bad noises in the motor.
- 12-29-16 #7 lifters and pushrods replaced and still sounds like a metal trash can half full of hammers rolling down a scree field.
- 03-01-17 @ 194,802 miles she's no longer mine.

12-28-2016: I no longer recommend Badger/kr_services and Ted's Trucks
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-12-2016, 07:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
mbost
Diesel Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Everson, WA
Posts: 312
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

Pacific Iron Mountain Truck Club Member

I'll try that out and post back what happens.
__________________
"Beast" 1984 D10 M1009 CUCV 6.2 J code 412586.4 miles and counting.
Gear Drive Timing Set, IP turned up, Cam/IP timing advanced, 6.5 Marine Injectors, K&N Air filter, SM465, NP205, 3.08 Gears, 33" Tires, 6" Lift/Dual Front Shocks, P/S Cooler & Filter installed, Aftermarket Oil Cooler, ARP Head Studs, 6.5 Head Gaskets, 1" Rear Coolant Crossover, 97 6.5 engine fan/clutch, 6.5 Electric Lift Pump. 6.5 Filter Housing, 6.5 GM4 Turbo 10 psi, AD244, 6.5 Serp Belt System
SOLD "Cinnamon" 1994 C3500 Crew Cab 4 door 6.5 F code

"Mickey" 1993 K3500 Crew Cab 4 door SRW 6.5TD & 4L80E 4.10 gears 219404 miles.
Diamond eye exhaust 4", 3" DP, and 2.5" crossover, AFE oiled cold intake system, Leroys Lift pump and harness upgrade, GlowShift Boost Bolt and Gauges, Walking J FTB Kit.

Engines: Mobil 5W40 Synthetic W/Fleetguard Filters. NV4500: Redline MT 85. GM14, GM10, SM465 and NP205: Royal Purple 85W140. GMTD Scan Tech
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-12-2016, 08:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
1967KaiserM715
Diesel Pro
 
1967KaiserM715's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: NH
Posts: 2,082
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

You could also add a couple coils(like brake lines to the master) it will also allow a little flex, reducing the risk of line fracture and breakage


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
1985 GMC K1500 long bed, 6.5 TD W/ NV4500, NP208

1991 GMC K2500 6.2L NA W/ 4L80E
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-12-2016, 10:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
mbost
Diesel Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Everson, WA
Posts: 312
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

Pacific Iron Mountain Truck Club Member

Thanks kaiser, I'm looking at doing that along with the rubber as suggested. It didn't occur to me until I was working on my cucv. At which point I pretty much laughed at myself for being a dummy.

__________________
"Beast" 1984 D10 M1009 CUCV 6.2 J code 412586.4 miles and counting.
Gear Drive Timing Set, IP turned up, Cam/IP timing advanced, 6.5 Marine Injectors, K&N Air filter, SM465, NP205, 3.08 Gears, 33" Tires, 6" Lift/Dual Front Shocks, P/S Cooler & Filter installed, Aftermarket Oil Cooler, ARP Head Studs, 6.5 Head Gaskets, 1" Rear Coolant Crossover, 97 6.5 engine fan/clutch, 6.5 Electric Lift Pump. 6.5 Filter Housing, 6.5 GM4 Turbo 10 psi, AD244, 6.5 Serp Belt System
SOLD "Cinnamon" 1994 C3500 Crew Cab 4 door 6.5 F code

"Mickey" 1993 K3500 Crew Cab 4 door SRW 6.5TD & 4L80E 4.10 gears 219404 miles.
Diamond eye exhaust 4", 3" DP, and 2.5" crossover, AFE oiled cold intake system, Leroys Lift pump and harness upgrade, GlowShift Boost Bolt and Gauges, Walking J FTB Kit.

Engines: Mobil 5W40 Synthetic W/Fleetguard Filters. NV4500: Redline MT 85. GM14, GM10, SM465 and NP205: Royal Purple 85W140. GMTD Scan Tech
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

PLEASE READ! You must check your email inbox for the confirmation link to complete registration. Please check your spam box if you do not see the email in your inbox.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1995 Chevy Silverado 4x4 6.5TD single mass flywheel stock clutch DavidofDenver ZF-6 OEM 2 12-22-2015 03:08 PM
Installing pre-bent brake lines davester Drivetrain - 2001 - 2010 10 11-05-2015 10:33 PM
Fuel line leak (another one) MarvelFan Duramax Third Generation: 2006-2007.5 (LBZ & LLY) 4 10-12-2015 02:15 PM
95 6.5 k2500 rescue/build. GA_BOY91 6.5L Diesel Engine 4 10-02-2015 07:33 PM
Serging/hesitation Brock 7654 6.5L Diesel Engine 38 09-24-2015 05:45 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:59 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Shoutbox provided by vBShout v6.2.1 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Runs best on HiVelocity Hosting.
© AutoGuide