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Old 12-13-2015, 12:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
ForeverFalcon40
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How To Swap/Replace Faulty OEM Oil Cooler Lines with SS Braided (Pic Heavy)

Here is a How to: If there is something you experienced different then what I wrote please feel free to chime in.

Truck: 1996 GMC K3500 CCLB 6.5 TD Auto Trans

Time: 4-5 Hours (On My Back, walking back and forth to get tools, writing the walk through and taking photos

Stainless Steel Oil Cooler Line Kit: Lubrication Specialists

Recommendations: Perform an Oil Filter and Oil Change (think about it, when do you drain the oil out of the cooler and lines?
Decent Size piece of cardboard to lay underneath the truck to catch oil hitting the ground instead of your driveway. Also you shouldn't expose your body to bare concrete.

Tools Needed:
3/8" Ratchet
3/8" 6in Extension
Small Pry Bar
10mm Socket
11MM Socket
These tools mentioned ABOVE I used to remove the front Driveshaft

35mm Socket (Ended Up using one from Axle Socket Set so it was Impact Rated, DO NOT USED AN IMPACT ON IT to Remove the Banjo Bolt to Remove Oil Filter Housing
1/2" 6in Extenion of better
1/2" Drive Ratchet
These tools Mentioned Above I used to remove the Oil Filer Housing

Phillips Screw Driver #2
1/4" 7mm Socket
6in Extension or Better
1/4" Ratchet
These Tools I mentioned ABOVE I used to remove the front grill and lights

3/4" Wrench
1" Wrench (Long, Mid or Short) Need some leverage to break loose and make it nice and tight. A short wrench to make tightening and loosing block fittings go smoother instead of fighting and soaking up time for clearance isses.
These Tools I mentioned ABOVE I used to remove the Stock OEM Oil Cooler Lines

13/16" Wrench
7/8" Wrench
These Tools Mentioned Above will be needed to install the new fittings from the Kit

11mm Wrench
11mm Socket
Anti-Seize for the bolts
These tools mentioned Above I used to Install Rubberized Hose Clamps that came with the kit to keep the lines from rubbing against each other and other objects in the truck

A 90 Degree Pick
I use the Pick to Remove and install the 3 O-Rings on the Housing
Wire Brush
Brake Clean the clean off old oil, dirt and grime on the housing. make it easier to check for leaks.

Oil Drain Pan
Jack (I have a 4 n from Harbor Freight)
Jack Stands (6 Ton Hein Werner) I wouldn't use anything less than 3 Ton
Plywood to put underneath the Jack stands to keep them from sinking into the driveway and possibly tipping the truck over
Liquid Teflon Tape for the fittings ( I find it easier to use this than regular Teflon tape)

On to the install:

1. Jack Up the truck as high as you can, give yourself more room to work


2. Remove your Front Drive Shaft: All of my Bolts are 11mm Except One which is 10mm. I am not sure why but its aggravating and I do plan on changing that. Stick your small pry bar in the Yoke so the shaft doesn't Spin and you Remove the Bolts and Straps. Once all the bolts and straps are removed Use your small Pry Bar to Get the U-Joints from out of the Yoke. Do that to both sides and slide the shaft out. Obviously Move the shaft so it is out of the way. Don't drag it PLACE IT on the ground with care

3. Rotate the Yoke So its Facing Vertically so you have a clean path to the banjo bolt that holts the oil filer housing.


4. Break Loose the Banjo Bolt on the Oil Filter Housing, Slide your drain pan underneath to catch oil dripping down. Remove the Banjo Bolt Completely and Place it in the drain Pan, Turn the Oil filter Housing on an Angle so all the oil drips out into the pan.


5. Remove the Front Grill and Lights (While the oil is draining out. There are numerous YouTube Videos on how to do this therefor I will not go into great Detail on how to do it. Note: I replaced my A/C Condenser and Lines they were shinny Silver so I took the time to paint them a flat black. Also inspect your other coolers and lines. I am going to change my power steering cooler b/c it is starting to rust and in some areas flaking of the fins has occurred. It is not leaking, so that will be another project for another day,
BEFORE PAINT:

AFTER PAINT:


6. Remove Oem Oil Cooler Lines from the Oiler Cooler.
YOU MUST MUST MUST use a 1" Wrench On the Oil Cooler while you spin the 3/4" Wrench on the Oil Cooler Line Fitting. If you do not use the 1" Wrench on the Oil Cooler you will rip and damage the oil cooler. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED! When you install new Fittings YOU MUST Use the 1" wrench as you tighten as well for the same REASON!
IT WAS HARD FOR ME TO HOLD BOTH WRENCHES WHERE THEY SHOULD BE AND TAKE A PIC. SEE THE BLACK FITTING ATTACHED/BUILT INTO THE COOLER?! That is where the 1" Wrench MUST MUST GO as you loosen and tighten the lines and fittings


7. Mark Oil Cooler Lines R, L, Top and Bottom. With Me Facing the truck Left Side Line of the Cooler ran to the top Fitting On the Block and Right Side Line of the Cooler ran to the bottom fitting on the block.
Move your drain pan or put another one under the oil cooler line and remove fittings as OIL WILL COME OUT!

8. Install the only 2 Straight Fittings onto the Oil Cooler. The side with the O-Ring goes into the oil Cooler. Before you install it, lube the O-Ring with Oil and put liquid Tape on the threads and make it hand tight. Once you are Hand tight get the wrenchES out: KEYWORD: Wrenches. 1" for the fitting on the cooler and 13/16" for the new fitting. You need to put the 1" Wrench on the oil cooler fitting or else you will twist is and damage the cooler. This is the 4th and Final Warning!


9. Take the 45 degree Swivel Fittings on Apply Liquid Tape to the fitting on the cooler and tighen those by hand. Do not make them Tight as you will need to have the other side Swivel/Pivot as you install your lines. Once you get the lines in the right place than you tighten it down. Ideally, leave it loose and have the fittings face inwards toward each other. Use the OEM mounting bracket for OEM Oil Cooler Lines as Reference

SIDE NOTE: I am skipping a few steps BUT: First I Hooked up the lines to the fittings on the cooler than ran them down to the block fittings and tightened them at the block first. I went back to the front and found the lines kinked and twisted. So I just removed line and swivel fittings OFF the truck tightened them down. The fitting can still pivot even though it is tight on the oil cooler line. I hooked them back up the fittings off the oil cooler line and tightened them.


10. Now it is time to disconnect the block fittings. They require a 1" Wrench. I only had 1" Long Combo Wrench which was great to break it loose. If I had a shorter length wrench like a Mid or a stubby removing it would have been easier. You will see it once you are In there. I was able to do it with some patience.
NOTE: In the pics you will only see one Line (happens to be the top, right below you will see a threaded hole in which the bottom line was attached. I was half way through and had a "O Sh*t moment" that I needed to take a picture.

12. Wipe the Threaded Holes Clean inside the block with a rag. Put Liquid Teflon tape the bigger end of the fitting that goes into the block. Screw that side in. DO THE TOP FIRST. Once it is started grab 7/8" Wrench to get it nice and tight.
NOTE: You don't have to tighten it till all the threads disappear into the block. Use your "mechanical instinct" that once you fill it getting tight you will need to mentally strategically tightened so the fitting is facing the front of the truck to run the Line.


13. Run your lines, remember that the Right Side Line goes to the Top. Once that is all good run your L/S Line to the Bottom Fitting (install fitting first on the block).
Note: You honestly don't have to mark where each line goes. I have OCD issues, so where they were originally routed is the way the went back in

14. Kit came with rubberized clamps. Hook those up to keep the lines separated and not from rubbing into each other. Do it at bumper and near the motor mount as Lubrication Specialists instructed to do. I opted not to take pics since On the sheet they gave you it has a wonderful pic. Also clearance issues may vary from truck to truck. Use your common sense.
You will need the 11mm Socket and Wrench to tighten the hardware they gave you for the lines.

SIDE NOTE: Two sets of clamps was not enough for me. Tomorrow I plan on getting a piece of Sheet Metal and Dropping Down the OEM bracket to a lower Spot So I can Utilize that and move the clamps around. Will also add some heater hose just to make sure nothing is rubbed through!

15. Clean the oil filter housing of all the old oil, dirt and grime. Nothing some Brake Clean, Wire Brush and Elbow Grease will do the trick. There are 3 O-rings on the adapter. One on the banjo bolt (made of rubber), 2 on the adapter housing (seemed to be made of plastic as they were a PITA to remove. Ended up braking into pieces. One O-Ring Is Obvious on the adapter side which bolts to the block. The other one is hidden inside the housing where the Banjo Bolt Passes through. Don't be afraid to remove it. Replace O-Ring Goes right in with no Issues. Remember to Lube all the O-Rings with oil before you install.


16. This could go 2 ways...Top Off the Oil or change it. I recommend Changing it as for once you are fully depleting the engine, cooler, and lines with oil. When you regularly change your oil you DO NOT change the oil in the cooler and lines.

17. Leave the front grill off and start the truck. Let it run for a minute. Stop and check the dip stick. Adjust as needed.

18. Run the truck again and check for leaks. I let it run at idle and when I saw no Leaks I had the wife jump in the truck and her her push down the gas pedal to 2,000 RPMS and checked for leaks again since Oil Pressure Changes as you accelerate.

19. Once you are leak free attach the front grill and lights.

20. Re-Install Front Driveshaft. DON'T DRAG IT, PICK IT UP!

21 Pat yourself on the back as you bullet proofed your truck from ultimate failure and now you can drive with peace of mind. With the money you saved from doing this upgrade yourself and not replacing a motor put it towards something else that the truck needs or you would like to do .

Personally, I am going to power wash the engine bay and looks for more leaks. One of my trans lines is leaking at the trans, I am going to replace both of them for peace of mind.

REMEMBER...Maintence BEFORE Modification. It is always great to Upgrade/Modify while maintaining the longevity of the truck.

Sincerely,
FF40

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SOLD 7/8/15 at 240k
1996 GMC K3500 CCLB Dually-"Mandingo" 150K
4" Diamond Eye Exhaust,Banks Boost & EGT gauges in a pillar,Banks drop in air filter,Heath Turbo Master,Heath Max Etorq Tow Tune,GM Steel Cowl Hood,Lund Visor,225/70/19.5's,Steelies Painted Black off a P30 Grumman's Van with 6" Chrome Spikes,Led Interior & Exterior Light, Reverse LED PODS,Cross Drilled & Slotted Rotors,Stainless Steel Goodridge Brake Lines,Lubrication Specialist's SS Oil Cooler Lines

Last edited by vstech; 03-07-2016 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 12-13-2015, 12:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
ForeverFalcon40
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Can Someone Please Edit the title to the Post, I can't. Its been a very long day.

"How To Swap/Replace Faulty OEM Oil Cooler Lines with SS Braided (Pic Heavy)"

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1997 K1500 Z71 X-Cab with an 8ft bed. 230k.
SOLD 7/8/15 at 240k
1996 GMC K3500 CCLB Dually-"Mandingo" 150K
4" Diamond Eye Exhaust,Banks Boost & EGT gauges in a pillar,Banks drop in air filter,Heath Turbo Master,Heath Max Etorq Tow Tune,GM Steel Cowl Hood,Lund Visor,225/70/19.5's,Steelies Painted Black off a P30 Grumman's Van with 6" Chrome Spikes,Led Interior & Exterior Light, Reverse LED PODS,Cross Drilled & Slotted Rotors,Stainless Steel Goodridge Brake Lines,Lubrication Specialist's SS Oil Cooler Lines
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Old 12-13-2015, 12:28 AM   #3 (permalink)
Z71Hobbs
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Awesome write up!!!
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Current Mods: Dual Relocated Gray PMDs to front bumper, turbo back diamond eye exhaust, K47 Airbox, FTB2.0 Stainless from Walking J, "F" intake swap, KOJO Tune.
Short Term Planned mods: New Mandrel Bent Crossover, oil cooler lines.
Long Term Planned mods: 4" RCX suspension lift with 305s.
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Old 12-13-2015, 06:51 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Good job FF40
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1996 Chevy K1500 Z71.....with '99 6.5 506 goodwrench van engine,88-93 6.2 diesel Napa y-pipe,'87 700R4,acdelco TP630F/Racor 20S fuel filters,Bosch non-turbo injectors,stanadyne blue tag 5088

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Old 12-13-2015, 09:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Nicely done, and well warned about using a backup wrench!

I'm installing a new motor in my K1500... So, I'll start on the block on the stand...
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Old 12-13-2015, 10:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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VSTech, can you put it as part of the FAQ??

Awesome pictures, I know it is not easy with greasy hands and poor lighting under the truck.
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PMD in Bumper
Leroy Diesel Flight System PMD
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Heath Turbo-Master
AD244 Alternator

Last edited by JMJNet; 12-13-2015 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 12-13-2015, 01:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I just did this about 2,000 miles ago and will add the following:

1: If your front U joints are original, as mine were, you might as well replace them. Oh, and they are held in by plastic plugs (yes plastic) and are easier to remove if you heat them. Check YouTube for additional.

2: You may want to remove the oil cooler for ease of attaching lines and to clean between it and the radiator, mine had lots of crud trapped. It is easy to install/replace.

3: Be ready to readjust and tighten the line that connects to the DS of oil cooler. As it vibrates/settles it wants to back off here and leak slightly due to hose routing and the way the fittings angle. Took 3 times for me before it was resolved.

4: I found some recommendations from previous posts that advised to cover the whole line with rubber hose to protect from rubbing. I did this as extra insurance, and other than having to cut some small notches in it, it was straightforward. You will need extra clamps or zip ties for this.

5: If you have any desire to plasti dip your grill, work on headlights, or anything else that requires having the grill off, do it now (you'll have it off anyways).

6: Listen to what the man says about a back up wrench.

Bob

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Last edited by Homeschool; 12-13-2015 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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One more thing.
Torque spec for the oil Filter Adapter bolt is 47 ft lbs. Proper torque will keep it from leaking later.
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Old 12-13-2015, 06:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Be warned that Blue cover Teflon pipe tape is not rated for petroleum. If you are using tape, you want the yellow cover Teflon tape for natural gas. This tape is off-white in colour & is rated for petroleum including Diesel fuel.

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- 12-13-16 Out Of Commission @ 194,680k, 50 miles after Teds Mil Takeout Install. Bad noises in the motor.
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Old 12-13-2015, 07:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Great write up and I will be doing mine soon.

Consider adding to the "propeller shaft" removal instructions... Mark your shaft orientation with the yoke so it goes back in the same way. May avoid a vibration issue. Why propeller shaft over drive shaft? It sounds cool...

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