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Old 04-26-2006, 11:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
0lee
 
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harmonic balancer failing

Just found out that my balancher is failing It looks very much like posted here: https://dieselplace.com/forum/showpos...67&postcount=7

The rubber is coming out on the back. If I press it a little with my fingers, it feels very soft and I can squeeze it.

I was looking at it about a week or two ago and it seemed to be ok, but I can be mistaken. Do they fail that quickly?

Can I still drive or should I better not before replacing it?

When replacing the balancher, does the water pump have to come off? I would do the '97 cooling upgrade when replacing, but it will probably take long to get the parts for that. So if the water pump has to come off anyway, I'll need a set of gaskets. What about the crankshaft seal? I'll try to get one, is it one part/gasket or several parts?

The oil cooler lines also start to leak ...


Last edited by 0lee; 04-26-2006 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 04-26-2006, 11:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
stingthieves
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no time

I have one in the box at my feet - It just doesn't install itself

GM part number 10154688

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Old 04-26-2006, 11:29 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Yeah, it would be nice if it did

My local supplier has the balancher on stock. He'll find out if he can get the cooling upgrade.

Can I still drive or will the balancher like suddenly fail and leave me with a broken crankshaft?
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Old 04-26-2006, 11:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Should I also replace the pulley that is on the crankshaft?
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Old 04-26-2006, 01:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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From what the guys on here have said, you should replace it or risk the crank breaking. A few have band aided them along for a week or two but I wouldn't.
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Old 04-26-2006, 01:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
mp4037
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I just replaced mine...i have some photos that I took as I did the job if you need them.

Kudos to the guys that do this type of work daily!! I started friday night and finished up Sunday evening. Not all in one stretch but it still took longer than I thought. I replaced some hoses and pulled the raditor out and cleaned that up as well.

Don't forget to get the crank seal. The hardest things were torquing the balancer nut back down to 200 ft. lbs. I wasn't able to do that...I did use some lock-tight though.

I would have liked to replace the timing chain and do the pitman and idler arms in the same job but I was too worried about the balancer to wait 2-3 more weeks till I had the time and parts to do them all together.

It didn't fix the weird vibration like i'd hoped but I do feel better that the engine might not fly apart for a little bit longer.
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Old 04-26-2006, 02:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah, some pics would be great! And as you mention it, I'll also need the torque specs required to do the job.

How many miles did you drive with the balancher failing? It might take two or three weeks before I get all the parts, or even longer, though I might be able to get the balancher sooner. I'm doing about 620 miles each week.

Did you have to take the water pump off?
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Old 04-26-2006, 03:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
mp4037
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I'll post some pics as soon as i'm able to.

On my truck the water pump didn't have to come off.

I drove a couple of weeks after noticing that it didn't look so good but it had probably looked like that for awhile.

Make sure that you use a balancer puller tool and an installer tool. Those make the job fun!
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Old 04-26-2006, 05:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
0lee
 
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Thanks! That'll be a great help.


BTW, how does the installer and the puller tool look like? There are no stores here that carry them.

When reinstalling, what's the recommended way to lock the engine so that it doesn't turn over when torquing the nut?
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Old 04-29-2006, 12:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
mp4037
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https://dieselplace.com/forum/showthr...light=harmonic

Here are a few photos to go with the steps from the post in the link above.

harmonic_01.jpg
This was where I got stuck for awhile. I finally saw that nice little hole in the frame where I could stick my breaker bar. I disconnected the fuel run solenoid and just tapped the starter a couple of time to break that bolt loose.

harmonic_02.jpg
Balancer Puller
harmonic_03.jpg
Backside of the old and new balancer
harmonic_04.jpg
Frontside. I don't know how bad of shape mine was in but the rubber was all swelled up, soft and uneven. I'm glad I replaced it.
harmonic_05.jpg
New crank seal.
harmonic_06.jpg
Harmonic Balancer Installer...made this part of the job a snap.

Maybe one of the pros could chime in on the secret to getting that bolt, that is holding the balancer, torqued back down to 200lbs. I torqued it as best as I could and then used some of the blue locktight. Someone locally suggested using a screwdriver and sticking it somewhere in a hole near the starter and holding it against one of the teeth on the flywheel but I didn't see any hole that they were talking about.

Hope this helps!

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231,000 Miles

Last edited by mp4037; 04-29-2006 at 11:06 AM.
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