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Old 10-15-2015, 01:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
JCDiesel
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GMT 400 1Ton Control arm bushings

Thought I would share my experience with some detail since I couldn't find alot here about it. The press at my work dissapered so I bought this 20 ton on sale for $160 and it works pretty well but as always with China made tools they always leave something to be desired. Cheap steel and something always needs adjustment or modified. If you plan on installing bushings yourself keep a few things in mind. You will need a press, some adapters and some large impact sockets at a minimum. Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel toes are a must. If an arbor plate falls on your toe you wont be happy

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my guess would be shocks
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Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.
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Old 10-15-2015, 01:27 AM   #2 (permalink)
JCDiesel
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I was able to use adapters from my ball joint master adapter kit and from my otc ball joint press. Without adapters I dont see being able to press these bushings. Here's the three sizes needed to press the bushings on the lower arm.

2 3/4" id
2 1/4" id
2" id

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81 Chevette 1.8 Isuzu diesel 24,000 miles
82 Park Ave. 5.7 DX Stock with Stanadyne FWS and Filtermag
81 Riviera 5.7 Donor vehicle for The 82 Park Ave Compliments of 57Diesel
82 C10 2WD 6.2 Parts Truck
91 Suburban 2500 4x4 6.2 Bad Transmission
85 Cadillac Deville factory 4.3 Oldsmobile Diesel
91 GMC Sierra K1500 6.2 NA Bad Transmission
94 K3500 CC DRW 6.5TD All the normal stuff done. DE exhaust Custom Parker Racor Rust free beauty
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my guess would be shocks
Quote:
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Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.
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Old 10-15-2015, 01:37 AM   #3 (permalink)
JCDiesel
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I felt no need to heat these or cut the bushings in any way simply take a hammer and chisel to the edges of the bushing where they meet the arm to break the rust seal. This will make the presses job much easier as the bushing pops free the arm. Match a impact socket to the bushing size and set up your press. Make certain everything is aligned properly and centered beneath the press. When you use the hydraulic jack I suggest standing at the side of the press for safety but this is just my opinion. You are actually pressing the arm downward over the bushing which is sitting on top the socket.
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81 Chevette 1.8 Isuzu diesel 24,000 miles
82 Park Ave. 5.7 DX Stock with Stanadyne FWS and Filtermag
81 Riviera 5.7 Donor vehicle for The 82 Park Ave Compliments of 57Diesel
82 C10 2WD 6.2 Parts Truck
91 Suburban 2500 4x4 6.2 Bad Transmission
85 Cadillac Deville factory 4.3 Oldsmobile Diesel
91 GMC Sierra K1500 6.2 NA Bad Transmission
94 K3500 CC DRW 6.5TD All the normal stuff done. DE exhaust Custom Parker Racor Rust free beauty
Quote:
Originally Posted by smackzed View Post
my guess would be shocks
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpacalips View Post
Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.

Last edited by JCDiesel; 10-15-2015 at 01:50 AM.
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Old 10-15-2015, 01:47 AM   #4 (permalink)
JCDiesel
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The rear bushing which is larger has a flat side which must be positioned towards the torsion bar hole. Place the bushing and tap it lightly with a small hammer so it will hold here while you set up. Pressing the bushing is quite easy so if you feel too much resistance stop and check your set up. Kind of a pain but rewarding once done. With the arms out of the truck this took about 90 minutes. A second person would surely speed things along Not sure what a shop would charge to press these but I like buying tools so more for me and less for them.
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81 Chevette 1.8 Isuzu diesel 24,000 miles
82 Park Ave. 5.7 DX Stock with Stanadyne FWS and Filtermag
81 Riviera 5.7 Donor vehicle for The 82 Park Ave Compliments of 57Diesel
82 C10 2WD 6.2 Parts Truck
91 Suburban 2500 4x4 6.2 Bad Transmission
85 Cadillac Deville factory 4.3 Oldsmobile Diesel
91 GMC Sierra K1500 6.2 NA Bad Transmission
94 K3500 CC DRW 6.5TD All the normal stuff done. DE exhaust Custom Parker Racor Rust free beauty
Quote:
Originally Posted by smackzed View Post
my guess would be shocks
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpacalips View Post
Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.

Last edited by JCDiesel; 10-15-2015 at 01:54 AM.
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Old 10-15-2015, 06:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
Diaric
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As always, nice write up

Looks like the same press I have, its cheap, but it does the job about once a year. I've actually used it a half dozen times the last few months. If you have a press, save pulled bearings, races and odd shapes of steel, they come in handy for jobs like this.

I think this belongs more in FAQ's than DIY, so I shall make it so.
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well to make your pump retarded, you could let it hang out with me for a day
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Diaric wins thread derailment......
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Yeah Diaric, I gotta say, I'm afraid I'm going to have to give you an official warning on that.
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
ForeverFalcon40
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Great write up!

I see no need to replace Upper Control Arm Bushings (unless upgrading to Poly) when you get the whole UCA Assembly from Rock Auto for $30 Doorman with BJ! Lifetime guarantee
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Last edited by ForeverFalcon40; 10-15-2015 at 10:22 PM.
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Old 10-16-2015, 01:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
JCDiesel
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Ok
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForeverFalcon40 View Post
Great write up!

I see no need to replace Upper Control Arm Bushings (unless upgrading to Poly) when you get the whole UCA Assembly from Rock Auto for $30 Doorman with BJ! Lifetime guarantee
Thanks for your imput! Dorman uca assemblies are TWICE the price you stated and the quality is average at best. A quality Moog or AC Professional upper ball joint alone will run you $30. I understand your LT warranty standpoint But I would rather buy a quality part that will last as opposed to sending out control arms for warranty when I could be fishing. Hopefully the thread will help some visitors or members when replacing their bushings standard or poly alike as this was the point. Josh
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81 Chevette 1.8 Isuzu diesel 24,000 miles
82 Park Ave. 5.7 DX Stock with Stanadyne FWS and Filtermag
81 Riviera 5.7 Donor vehicle for The 82 Park Ave Compliments of 57Diesel
82 C10 2WD 6.2 Parts Truck
91 Suburban 2500 4x4 6.2 Bad Transmission
85 Cadillac Deville factory 4.3 Oldsmobile Diesel
91 GMC Sierra K1500 6.2 NA Bad Transmission
94 K3500 CC DRW 6.5TD All the normal stuff done. DE exhaust Custom Parker Racor Rust free beauty
Quote:
Originally Posted by smackzed View Post
my guess would be shocks
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpacalips View Post
Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.

Last edited by JCDiesel; 10-16-2015 at 01:12 AM.
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
ForeverFalcon40
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Please, do not think I am challenging or arguing with you. I think your write-up if Great.

$30 was on my 97 K1500 with a 6.5.
The only reason I didn't get Moog was I knew it was not my forever truck as I was craving a CCLB Dually. I really wanted 6.2 or 94 or older 6.5. It seemed like I was chasing a unicorn here in NY. Those that had something remotely close wanted an absurd amount of money. I had to settle for a 96.

I just double checked RA for the Dually and Moog is to the tune of $90 compared $62. Me personally as you suggested I would 110% get the Moog. The only downfall with RA warranty exchange program is that you have to wait for the replacement to come in the mail vs. walking into a store and getting instantaneously or overnight.

You have a nice box in the background! Def do not seem like the typical weekend warrior. Just throwing that out there for other members and visitors.

Is there any reason you chose not to install poly? I hear mixed reviews.
I took my K1500 the next week Upstate where my family has property. Terrain was off the beaten path. With a brand new front end and Monroe Reflex Shocks there was no give in the suspension felt pretty rocky honestly I was disappointed.
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Last edited by ForeverFalcon40; 10-16-2015 at 05:42 AM.
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Old 06-05-2018, 02:27 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I'm confused why I don't see the concentric bushing for adjusting the camber for alignment anywhere in these pics... or is this another reason for me to stop perusing these threads at 2:27 in the morning?!?
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Old 06-05-2018, 09:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I'm confused why I don't see the concentric bushing for adjusting the camber for alignment anywhere in these pics... or is this another reason for me to stop perusing these threads at 2:27 in the morning?!?
I think what you are thinking of is just like a washer that goes outside the bushings front and rear.
These trucks actually came from the factory with no provision for alignment of the upper a-arms. There is a special tool that cuts a slot out of just a bolt hole. The 1st alignment was expensive because the a-arm had to be removed to cut the slots. The adjustment cams also had to be purchased.

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