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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 10-01-2015, 09:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
GA_BOY91
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95 6.5 k2500 rescue/build.

Hey guys I just rescued a 95 Chevy k2500 with the 6.5l turbo diesel. First a Lil background info. This truck has sat for 6 years minimum only has 60,000 original miles shown on the dash. One owner. Truck was parked due to it sheared off starter bolts and ripped threads out they had helicoils put in and he parked it and bought another truck. Key has been lost. Getting one cut. I am a Lil confused as to what turbo I should replace this stock gmx turbo with. Any help? Do I need a tune when I replace the turbo? The starter bracket all be replaced immediately as well as a nose relocation. Any other advice other than 4 inch ehaust strait pipe Turbo back.?

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Old 10-01-2015, 09:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Welcome to Diesel Place!

Read this thread for reliability mods: https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-...tart-here.html

Lots of information about turbos here: 6.5/6.2 High Performance Engine Modifications - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

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Old 10-01-2015, 11:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
grabowski
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May want to investigate why it ripped out starter bolts and how much damage to the block that caused, first.
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1985 GMC 6.2 manual 4x4 3/4+ton 62,013 miles
______________
The Blowby Queen '94 Chevy 'burb Silverado K2500 4L80E 4.10. Quadstar Tuning.
Midland Diesel rebuilt 5221 Blue Label IP with ULSD Upgrade & rebuilt Bosch injectors @ 2200psi. 235-85 on 16" PYO alloys. Bilstein HDs, Hellwig rear sway bar. Heath TM. Fluidampr. S&B oiled filter Intake, Provent 200 W/catchcan. Bosch Duraterm GP W/PT Solutions GP harness. WJ FTB. AC Delco Tstat & Red Line Water Wetter. hxtasy PMD #2 resistor on Heath Isolator 4. LS 1/2" oil cooler & lines. OPS Relay Mod & Leroys Hose. Diamond Eye exhaust. Heath 2.5" crossover. W/T Grille. VDO EGT & Vac/Boost gauge with copper line & Leroys Boost Bolt.


- 12-13-16 Out Of Commission @ 194,680k, 50 miles after Teds Mil Takeout Install. Bad noises in the motor.
- 12-29-16 #7 lifters and pushrods replaced and still sounds like a metal trash can half full of hammers rolling down a scree field.
- 03-01-17 @ 194,802 miles she's no longer mine.

12-28-2016: I no longer recommend Badger/kr_services and Ted's Trucks
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Old 10-02-2015, 04:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Welcome. Sitting for that long, you should first completely dismantle the entire fuel system, from the fuel tank to the Injection Pump to avoid possibly trashing the most expensive electronic fuel injection DS model pump with 5 plus years of gunk, dust and rust. All the old fuel needs to be drained and properly disposed of..
But lets see if theres any DTCs after youve restored power ie installed a matched pair of fully charged batteries w/ min of 800CCA each.. Check and/or clean all battery connections, and double check and clean ALL grounds.. OBD System Check

1. Drop, clean and inspect the fuel tank.
Remove, clean, inspect and test the fuel sender. If you replace the fuel sender, nearly all come preassembled with the INCORRECT gasoline sock aka the choker therefore you'll need to order the fuel strainer ACDelco TS1012 separately regardless.
REPLACE THE FUEL STRAINER, and all the o-ring seals (2X) @ fuel sender fuel line connectors.

2. Replace all the rubber fuel lines directly under the Fuel Filter Manager (FFM).
With FFM removed, replace the WIF drain hose(s) and the FFM to IP supply hose. Dont forget the aprox 8" return jumper hose(s) located at the front and back of the engine.

Inspect all the steel supply lines for rust internally. If rusted, they reccommend replacement.
Sitting that long.. I would suggest you replace all the steel and rubber fuel lines, linestogo(dot)com has OEM replacements.
Replace the injectors daisy chain return hoses too.... All are fuel and/or air leaks just waiting to happen..

Clean, inspect and test the FFM housing.. I would at minimum rebuild it with new Fuel Heater and WIF o-ring seals..

Replace the FFM fuel filter element. I only reccommend using the OEM two pc shiney metal top type fileter element with separate retention nut as opposed to the one pc molded black plastic POS w/ integrated nut. Those black plastic filters are prone to leaking fuel and/or losing prime when parked for extended periods, overnight for ex..

To avoid system recontamination, flush and blow out the fuel return line before reconnecting the fuel sender/tank.




3. Test the Lift Pump Relay Circuit, and test the lift pump's performance.

Fuel Pump Relay Circuit Diagnosis


Diagnostic Aid to help avoid all the excessive "cranking" when Bleeding Air From the Fuel Supply (note last step), see Cycle the Lift Pump




Quote:
Originally Posted by GA_BOY91 View Post
I am a Lil confused as to what turbo I should replace this stock gmx turbo with. Any help? Do I need a tune when I replace the turbo? The starter bracket all be replaced immediately as well as a nose relocation. Any other advice other than 4 inch ehaust strait pipe Turbo back.?
Now Im confused.. Whats wrong with the stock turbo and why do you think it needs replacing? Performance tune? Find out what caused and fix the starter issue...
Seriously.. Until youve got it up and running well, your wasting your time entertaining the thought of bigger turbos and hipo tunes..
Get it running properly and get to know her a bit 'fore you start changing a bunch of s'it..
I would suggest taking a few months studying the material in my signature, while learning your vehicles every tick and suttle nuances most intimately before making any much less radical modifications and/or upgrades so that you might recognise when they hinder vs improve performance, as many often do..


Diamond Eye 4" Performance Exhaust System (turbo back) w/ muffler is money well spent. Afterwards, you may find you dont need a new turbo or tune afterall.
Good Luck..


Fuel Contamination Inspection and Cleaning
Note: This procedure checks for the presence of water and gasoline in diesel fuel that may cause injection pump and nozzle damage.
1. Remove the fuel filter element and inspect it:
If water, gasoline or fungi/bacteria are not present, end the inspection.
If water or fungi/bacteria are present, go to step 2.
If gasoline is present, go to step 3.
2. Clean water from the fuel system in these steps:
A. Disconnect the batteries.
B. Drain the fuel tank.
C. Remove the fuel tank.
D. Remove the fuel pick-up/sending unit.
E. Inspect the fuel tank and fuel pick-up/sending unit for rust, fungi or bacteria:
If no rust is present, clean the inside of the fuel tank and fuel pick-up/sending unit with hot water, then dry them with compressed air.
If rust is present, replace the parts.
F. Disconnect the ends of the following lines:
Lift pump suction
Lift pump pressure
Fuel filter outlet
Fuel filter drain
Fuel return
G. Inspect each of the lines and replace any rusted pipes.
H. Dry the inside of each line with low-pressure air.
I. Clean the inside of the fuel filter housing and dry it with compressed air.
J. Disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel shut-off solenoid in the injection pump.
K. Install a new fuel filter element.

L. Install the fuel pick-up/sending unit and fuel tank (add clean diesel fuel to 1/4 full).
M. Connect the following lines:
Lift pump suction (both ends)

Lift pump pressure (both ends)
Fuel filter drain
Fuel return (at injection pump)
N. Connect the fuel filter outlet and the fuel return line at the pick-up/sending unit to hoses that flow to metal containers.
O. Connect the batteries and crank the engine until clean fuel flows from the fuel filter outlet into a metal container (see Figure 7-59):
Allow a maximum of 15 seconds cranking time, followed by 1 minute of cranking motor cooling time.
P. Connect the hose from the fuel filter outlet to the injection pump inlet.
Q. Open each injection line at its nozzle end and crank the engine until clean fuel flows from it:
Use two wrenches when loosening the injection line fittings.
Allow a maximum of 15 seconds cranking time, followed by 1 minute of cranking motor cooling time.
R. Tighten each injection line fitting at its nozzle:
Use two wrenches when tightening the injection line fittings.
S. Remove the electrical connector for the fast idle/cold advance temperature switch and jumper its wiring harness terminals with an insulated wire.
T. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel shut-off solenoid in the injection pump.
U. Start and run the engine for 15 minutes while fuel flows from the fuel return line into a metal container (see Figure 7-60).
V. Stop the engine.
W. Connect the fuel return hose to the fuel pick-up/sending unit.
X. Remove the jumper wire and install the electrical connector for the fast idle/cold advance temperature
switch.
Y. Clean the engine of fuel spillage.
Z. Fill the fuel tank and add a biocide, if needed.
3. Clean gasoline from the fuel system in these steps:
A. Determine a procedure:
If the engine runs, follow steps B, C, J and K.
If the engine does not run, begin at step C.
B. Drain the fuel tank.
C. Fill the fuel tank.
D. Disconnect the electrical connector for the fuel shut-off solenoid in the injection pump.
E. Remove the fuel filter outlet and connect it to a hose that flows to a metal container.
F. Crank the engine until clean fuel flows from the fuel filter outlet into a metal container:
Allow a maximum of 15 seconds cranking time, followed by 1 minute of cranking motor cooling time
G. Connect the hose from the fuel filter outlet to the injection pump inlet.
H. Remove the electrical connector for the fast idle/cold advance temperature switch and jumper its terminals with an insulated wire.
I. Connect the electrical connector for the fuel shut-off solenoid in the injection pump.
J. Start and run the engine for 15 minutes.
K. Stop the engine.
L. Remove the jumper wire and install the electrical connector for the fast idle/cold advance temperature switch.

M. Clean the engine of fuel spillage.

Fuel-Specific Gravity Check
Note: The hydrometer fuel quality tester provides a general indication of fuel quality and should not be considered scientifically accurate.
1. Drain the fuel filter housing by doing these things:
Stop the engine.
Place a container under the drain valve exit hose at the left front side of the engine.
Open the drain valve.
Start the engine and operate it at operating speed until clear fuel appears at the drain valve exit hose.
Fill a 1 -liter (0.946-quart) container with a sample of clean fuel.
Close the drain valve and stop the engine.
Bring the fuel sample to 60 F (16 C).

2. Obtain a fuel quality hydrometer (special tool J 34352).
3. Fill the hydrometer with the fuel sample by doing these things:
Squeeze the hydrometer bulb.
Submerse the hydrometer tip into the sample.
Release the bulb, allowing fuel to enter the glass tube until it floats the glass bulb inside the tube.
Gently spin the hydrometer to relieve the surface tension of the fuel sample.
4. Read the scale on the glass bulb at the point where the top of the fuel sample contacts it (see Figure 7-61):
If the top of the fuel sample is in the yellow part of the glass bulb scale (above the green part), suspect the presence of gasoline in the fuel.
If the top of the fuel sample is in the green part of the glass bulb scale, the fuel has high quality (approximate cetane rating of 46 to 50).
If the top of the fuel sample is in the yellow part of the glass bulb scale (below the green part), the fuel has moderate quality (approximate cetane rating of 41 to 45).
If the top of the fuel sample is in the red part of the glass bulb scale, the fuel has low quality (approximate cetane rating of 38 to 40).



Now its time to do some......
FUEL SUPPLY SYSTEM CHECKS
If the fuel supply system is not delivering enough fuel, or air is being drawn into the fuel injection system, driveability could be greatly effected or a "Cranks But Will Not Run" symptom could exist. If other diagnostics indicates, or if the fuel supply system is suspected of not delivering enough fuel or drawing air, it should be tested as follows:

!!Important!!!!
-- Air leaks or restrictions on the suction side of the fuel pump will seriously affect pump output.
-- Make sure there is sufficient fuel in the tank.
-- Check for leaks at ALL fuel connections from the fuel tank to the injection pump.
-- Tighten any loose connections.
-- With engine running, check all hoses and lines for flattening or kinks that would restrict fuel flow.

Lift Pump Flow Check
1. Disconnect the electrical connector for the engine shutoff solenoid at the injection pump.
2. Disconnect the pipe at the lift pump outlet fitting.
3. Install a hose at the lift pump outlet fitting and place a 1 liter/quart container at the hose to collect fuel.
4. Crank the engine and measure the amount of fuel :
-- If more than .24 ltrs (1/2 pint) in 15 seconds, refer to "Lift Pump Pressure Check" in this section.
-- If less than .24 ltrs (1/2 pint) in 15 seconds, refer to "Lift Pump Suction Line Check" in this section.

Lift Pump Suction Line Check
1. Remove the fuel tank cap and repeat the "Lift Pump Flow Check."
-- If more than .24 ltrs (1/2 pint) in 15 seconds, replace the defective fuel cap and refer to the "Lift Pump Pressure Check."
-- If less than .24 ltrs (1/2 pint) in 15 seconds, go to the next step.
2. Separate the lift pump suction line from the fuel sender.
3. Connect the suction line to a source of clean fuel, using an additional hose.
4. Repeat "Lift Pump Flow Check."
-- If flow is more than .24 ltrs (1/2 pint) in 15 seconds, remove the fuel sender and check it for restrictions.
-- If flow is less than .24 ltrs (1/2 pint) in 15 seconds, go to step 5.
5. Check lift pump suction line for restriction:
-- If restriction exist, repair it and recheck the lift pump flow.
-- If no restriction exist, replace the lift pump and recheck lift pump flow.
6. Attach the lift pump suction line to the fuel sender.

Lift Pump Pressure Test
1. Install a tee adaptor at the injection pump fuel inlet connection.
2. Connect a pressure gauge with a dial indication of 0 to 103kPa (0 to 15 psi) to the tee adaptor.
3. Run engine and measure fuel pressure.
-- If pressure is at least 3 psi or 27 kPa go to step 4.
-- If pressure is less than 3 psi or 27kPa, refer to Chart A-5 in SECTION 3 (Fuel Pump Relay Circuit Diagnosis) before replacing lift pump.
4. Remove pressure gauge and tee adaptor.
5. Connect outlet pipe at the lift pump outlet fitting.
6. Clean any fuel spillage.
7. Run the engine to check for fuel leakage.

Fuel System Air Leak Test
1. Install a transparent hose between the fuel manager/filter outlet and injection pump fuel inlet.
2. Start and idle the engine, observing the fuel for air bubbles.
-- If air bubbles are not present, stop the engine and go to step 6.
-- If air bubbles are present, stop the engine and go to step 3.
3. Check the lift pump suction line for air leakage:
-- Disconnect fuel pipe from the fuel sender and plug it.
-- Disconnect the fuel pipe from the lift pump, and install a hand held vacuum pump with gauge.
-- Apply vacuum to the fuel pipe and observe the gauge reading:
--- If vacuum does not drop, connect fuel pipe and go to step 4.
--- If vacuum drops, repair the air leak in the suction line and install the suction line pipe and hose.
4. Check the fuel sender for air leakage:
-- Remove the fuel tank.
Remove the fuel sender from the fuel tank, remove strainer and plug the bottom of the pickup tube.
-- Apply a vacuum to the upper end of the pickup tube, and observe the gauge reading.
--- If vacuum does not drop, install the fuel sender and fuel tank.
--- If vacuum drops, replace the fuel sender, install the fuel tank, connect the fuel pipe and go to step 5.
5. Start and run the engine, observing the fuel for air bubbles:
-- If air bubbles are present, stop engine and recheck steps 3 and 4.
-- If air bubbles are not present, stop the engine and go to step 6.
6. Remove the transparent hose and connect the hose of the fuel manager/filter outlet to the injection pump inlet fitting.
7. Disconnect the return hose from the injection pump.
8. Install a transparent hose between the injection pump and the hose of the return line.
9. Start and run the engine, observing the fuel for air bubbles:
NOTICE: It is OK to see a small stream of air bubbles on snap acceleration
-- If air bubbles are not present, go to step 10.
-- If air bubbles are present, replace the injection pump.
10. Stop the engine.
11. Remove the transparent hose and attach the fuel return hose at the injection pump.
12. Clean any fuel spillage.
13. Run engine and check for fuel leaks.

Following any "Fuel Supply System Check(s)" outlined aboved or otherwise, or any routine maint procedure(s) eg fuel filter change, or any repair(s) eg lift pump replacement and normal engine operation has been restored.. The last step of the process is to check for, make note of, and CLEAR DTC(s).
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Old 10-02-2015, 07:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
GA_BOY91
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First off thanks guys for the great advice. First off I have already inspected block block is not damaged. The cause of the starter shearing bolts is due to it missing get the starter bracket. That being said the bracket is on order already. And I definitely plan on replacing all rubber hoses and lines immediately. Also have new fuel lines from IP to injectors on order also. Along with a pmd relocation kit. Flush of the fuel system will also be done immediately. About the turbo. I was u feel the immlression that the stock turbo on this motor was extremely inefficiant from other threads I have read. Also probably should of led my initial post with the fact I am a diesel/heavy equipment tech/field mechanic. I am just completley uneducated pm the 6.5 specifically. I am also planning on 4 inch turbo back to stacks putting a #9 resistor in I do understand that this is not a power house and I am not looking forward it to stand with a Cummins I know better. But I do want it to be reliable and have some *** to her though.
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