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Old 09-12-2015, 11:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
ForeverFalcon40
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Location: Strong Island, NY
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How To Replace Front Hubs & Brakes on 96 K3500

I just recently overhauled the entire brake system on my 96 K3500 CCLB Dually. I did run into some issues, which I was able to pan out with the help of the members here and on my own.

This is my first write up and I will add pictures by the end of the week.

Tools Needed:

22mm Socket (Lug Nuts)
18mm Socket (Remove Nut from Tie Rod to Spindle for access issues)
15mm Socket (Remove Bolts from Hub to Spindle)
Pry Bar
Hammer
3/8 Hex Socket (Caliper Bolts)
21mm Socket/Combo Wrench (Remove Nuts that hold rotor and hub)
22mm wrench incase someone stripped the 21mm and replaced it with a NON Gm nut
Brass Punch (to knock out studs and not damage them)
Regular Punch and be careful not to mess up the studs
1/2' Ratchets
3/8" ratchets
32mm Axle Socket
1/2" 3in Extension
3/8" 3in Extension
Torque Wrench
Jack
Jack Stands
Penetrating Oil
Brake Lube (Slide Pins)
Anti-Sieze (I use it on everything EXCEPT LUG NUTS)
Brake Cleaner
Rags
Disc Brake Quiet

OPTIONAL: 9/16 and 14mm 12 Point Socket incase the 15mm bolts get stripped...which is a common issue)
Assortment of Drill Bits and of course a drill

Parts (Pending what you are replacing)
Front Pads (I choose Semi-Metallic after seeing a special on TV program where they found Semi-Metallic exceed performance to Ceramic) Plus they were free
Rebuilt Calipers
Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors from Ebay ($80)
Brand New Front Hubs with ABS Sensor from Ebay: Vendor was AM1Autoparts. Both were on sale for $100 Shipped (I highly recommend them, I have used them in the past with great success. Standard Industry Warranty 2 yrs.

I will not give part numbers since they different from vendor to vendor. Only issue was Rotors (picture on EBAY listing did not match the actual rotor sent) I emailed seller to confirm and they verified the listing is for the correct rotor and the picture on the ad is generic.

OPTIONAL GM Part Numbers:
88891741 - One Pack of 5 15mm Bolts (Hub to Spindle)
88891745 - One Pack of 5 Wheel Stud (Not for Lug Nuts) goes through Rotor
and Hub

GM charges per piece but they come in packs of 5 so do the math. I had no choice. The parts guy felt bad for me since he rammed for $60 15mm bolts
He gave me GM Part number to the stud to source elsewhere.
I ordered the rest of EBAY they had the best prices. I ended up REPLACING ALL 8 15mm hub studs for future repair

Prep:
Spray Penetrating on Oil n back of the 4 Hub Bolts Before you start the job, I sprayed the day and night before. I also Sprayed the day of. Also spray the 18mm Stud on the Tie Rod end that bolts to the spindle

Disassemble:

1) Break (not remove) Lug Nuts with 22mm Socket
2) Jack Up Truck via Frame Rail
3) Once you reach desired height throw a jackstand underneath, I also put a piece of wood under the jack stand so it doesn't sink into my driveway
4) Lower the truck onto the jack stand.
IF YOU DONT HAVE A JACK STAND, don't work on the truck. You can not put a price on safety!
5) Remove 2 Caliper Bolts using 3/8 Hex Socket and remove Caliper (if the caliper is tought to move use a pry bar to wiggle it off
6) Remove the 18mm Nut holds the Tie Rod to the Spindle. If the stud and nut spin together then take your jack and put pressure on the tie rod by jacking it up. Once the nut is removed spin it back on and give it a good wack so the tie rod falls out. Push that out of the way
7) With the tie rod removed you can easily maneuver the spindle to get into desirable access positions to work on the truck
8) BY HAND, DO NOT USE ANY AIR POWERED TOOLS, remove the 4 15mm Bolts behind the hub. THESE BOLTS ARE PRONE TO STRIP! Once you break them free add an extension so you don't rub against axle boot. If they do than follow the next few steps.
A) If the 15mm Nut strippled the bolt than the next step is 9/16.
B) If 9/16 does not work than hammer in a 12pt 14mm
C) If you make it to the 14mm 12 point, I strongly suggest drilling a relief Hole/tunnel into the stud from stud side (not bolt head where the socket is).
When drilled the relief hole, make sure it is centered or close to it as you dont want to damage the threads on the spindle.

Drilling:
A) Get a Punch and hit the stud right in the middle (so the drill bit can catch and NOT DRIFT.
B) Start Small Drill Bit and Gradually work your way up to desirable sized hole.
While drilling, make sure to do so at a low speed to insure cutting AND USE lots of penetrating oil as you drill to cool things down)
C) Drill through the bolt but do not exceed the head starts.
Once you successfully tunnel the stud, increase to the next bigger size
Repeat tunneling till you get to the desired size
D) Once desired size is reached remove bolt with 14mm 12 point Socket

9) 32MM Socket Remove the Axle Socket and do not forget to take the washer off as well
10) Thread the nut back on and leave a little room.
11) Take a Punch give the axle stud a few good wacks to get it loose. Once it is loose, remove the axle nut
12) My truck sat for an unknown period of time before I bought it and everything was rusted and correded. I had to end up getting a Sledge Hammer out (that I use to break up concrete) to beat the Rotor Assembly off the spindle.

GM Recommends using decent sized puller which I did not have, if you have a decent sized puller more power to ya. If you want to save your rotors, use a puller or try using a Brass Hammer or Punch. If you don't have those consider yourself a caveman and use a block of wood as a buffer.

13) With the Assembly off separate the hub From Rotor. There are studs and nuts. Nuts will have to be removed (21mm) and studs pressed out.
If you don't have a press, thread the nut back on and start hammering away with a punch. If you have a brass punch then you don't need to thread the nut back on. Brass is soft and it will not mushroom threads.
14) If some hackjob touched the truck before you and stripped the stud and nut, REPLACE STUD IS GM PART# 88891745 (can not be orded at the local parts store, they will sell you a WHEEL STUD.
15) Separate the Hub from the rotor.

Re-Assemble

1) Your old rotor is going to act as a base, place it on a flat sureface in which the Hat is facing you.
2) Take new Hub and Rotor and place it ontop of the old rotor, so the two hats are touching eachother.
3) Insert Studs into the hole.
4) Wack em till the go all the way in. Not only can you see them mated together you will hear a different sound. You will need a hammer and a punch.
5) Once together, install that Big Heavy Black Piece (I dont know the name) but it has the studs in which the wheel goes onto.
6) Get two pieces of wood and position them on a vise. Stick the rotor ASM in between the pieces of wood and tighten her down.
7) Tighten down the Nuts, I could not find torque Specs, I did 140 ftLbs (Same of lug Nuts and than went back adjusted it to 150 to play safe. I anti-siezed the nuts since they were a chore to remove! Smoke was coming from my socket when I removed them during disassembly.
8) Put Anti Sieze on the Axle Stud, also on the spindle where it meets the hub.
9) I put one 15mm Stud through the spindle to hold the backing plate while I muscled the Rotor ASM back on. I say musled as it was heavy. It would have been easier to do if if I had a lift. Slide it on (don't force it or else you will mess axle stud and/or hub.
10) Once you get it close enough start to thread the one stud you have already by hand till it catches.
11) Position the backing plate to line up with the other 3 holes and install another bolt diagnolly from the first one you started.
12) I would tighen those bolts about 1/2 way and than install the other two half way. MAKE SURE YOU ANTI-SIEZED THOSE BOLTS
13) No torque spec on these, but use your judgement. You will just feel they are nice and tight.

Installing pads are no different than any other vehicle.
Put one coat of disc quiet on back of the pad before you start the job, this way by the time it comes to install it will be dry and tacky.
Use brake lube on slide pins and Anti-Sieze on the threads
Before installing rotors, make sure you remove the protective oil on them using brake clean and a rag.
Intall Rims and torque Lug nuts to 140 ftlbs.

Pump the pedal till you feel it build up and go for a ride to mesh the pads to the rotors.

Go up to 10 mph 2x and gradually come to a complete stop
repeat same 20mph, 30mph, 40 mph and 50 mph and you are done.

IF THERE IS ANYTHING I MISSED PLEASE LET ME KNOW.

IF YOU DONT HAVE ACCESS TO SCANNER TO BLEED THE ABS PUMP THAN DO NOT OPEN UP ANY OTHER BLEEDERS. I have a Snap On Solus and was able to do bleed the ABS pump, there are other scanners that can do it as well. I am not sure how much a shop/dealer would charge for this. I had no choice since my caliper pistons were rusted and pitted pretty bad. I also switched out my rubber brake lines to Goodridge Stainless Steel Lines (Part# 14121). Just took the truck on a 500 mile road trip and have zero complaints. Truck stops when I want it to!

If there is something I missed please feel free comment. I will add pics and proof read later on in the week. Just figure I post this before I forget!

Hopefully you can use the money you saved by doing it yourself for some upgrades or other maintenance!

Thanks for the Space,
FF40

__________________
1997 K1500 Z71 X-Cab with an 8ft bed. 230k.
SOLD 7/8/15 at 240k
1996 GMC K3500 CCLB Dually-"Mandingo" 150K
4" Diamond Eye Exhaust,Banks Boost & EGT gauges in a pillar,Banks drop in air filter,Heath Turbo Master,Heath Max Etorq Tow Tune,GM Steel Cowl Hood,Lund Visor,225/70/19.5's,Steelies Painted Black off a P30 Grumman's Van with 6" Chrome Spikes,Led Interior & Exterior Light, Reverse LED PODS,Cross Drilled & Slotted Rotors,Stainless Steel Goodridge Brake Lines,Lubrication Specialist's SS Oil Cooler Lines
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Old 09-12-2015, 11:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
Freddyack
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Nice write up! Added to DIY's

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Old 09-13-2015, 12:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
ForeverFalcon40
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Strong Island, NY
Posts: 512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddyack View Post
Nice write up! Added to DIY's
Means a lot coming from you, since you are always giving here on the forums!

I have to replace the grounds on my truck since my Heath Computer does not work. I install it and truck just cranks. I install old computer and the truck runs fine. Heath says I need to check my grounds and relocate them off a drip try on the passenger side to the Intake manifold. Figure while I am at it, I will just upgrade to 4 gauge wire.

Maybe I will document that and write it up as well.
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1997 K1500 Z71 X-Cab with an 8ft bed. 230k.
SOLD 7/8/15 at 240k
1996 GMC K3500 CCLB Dually-"Mandingo" 150K
4" Diamond Eye Exhaust,Banks Boost & EGT gauges in a pillar,Banks drop in air filter,Heath Turbo Master,Heath Max Etorq Tow Tune,GM Steel Cowl Hood,Lund Visor,225/70/19.5's,Steelies Painted Black off a P30 Grumman's Van with 6" Chrome Spikes,Led Interior & Exterior Light, Reverse LED PODS,Cross Drilled & Slotted Rotors,Stainless Steel Goodridge Brake Lines,Lubrication Specialist's SS Oil Cooler Lines
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Old 10-06-2015, 05:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
ForeverFalcon40
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Strong Island, NY
Posts: 512
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Is there anyway to edit the Original Post with pics?
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1997 K1500 Z71 X-Cab with an 8ft bed. 230k.
SOLD 7/8/15 at 240k
1996 GMC K3500 CCLB Dually-"Mandingo" 150K
4" Diamond Eye Exhaust,Banks Boost & EGT gauges in a pillar,Banks drop in air filter,Heath Turbo Master,Heath Max Etorq Tow Tune,GM Steel Cowl Hood,Lund Visor,225/70/19.5's,Steelies Painted Black off a P30 Grumman's Van with 6" Chrome Spikes,Led Interior & Exterior Light, Reverse LED PODS,Cross Drilled & Slotted Rotors,Stainless Steel Goodridge Brake Lines,Lubrication Specialist's SS Oil Cooler Lines
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
ForeverFalcon40
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Strong Island, NY
Posts: 512
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Is there anyway to add pics to this?
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1997 K1500 Z71 X-Cab with an 8ft bed. 230k.
SOLD 7/8/15 at 240k
1996 GMC K3500 CCLB Dually-"Mandingo" 150K
4" Diamond Eye Exhaust,Banks Boost & EGT gauges in a pillar,Banks drop in air filter,Heath Turbo Master,Heath Max Etorq Tow Tune,GM Steel Cowl Hood,Lund Visor,225/70/19.5's,Steelies Painted Black off a P30 Grumman's Van with 6" Chrome Spikes,Led Interior & Exterior Light, Reverse LED PODS,Cross Drilled & Slotted Rotors,Stainless Steel Goodridge Brake Lines,Lubrication Specialist's SS Oil Cooler Lines
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Old 12-17-2015, 01:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
JCDiesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForeverFalcon40 View Post
Is there anyway to edit the Original Post with pics?
Ya wtf no pictures?

Make sure you are using "post reply" not quick reply.
Click paperclip to attach and when the attachment window opens you may have to "request desktop"

Select file(s) then click upload. Once the files upload close the attachment window and submit your reply. This is on mobile device.
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my guess would be shocks
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Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.

Last edited by JCDiesel; 12-17-2015 at 01:56 AM.
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Old 12-17-2015, 06:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
ForeverFalcon40
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I usually copy and paste links from my photobucket.

I can't edit my OP
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1997 K1500 Z71 X-Cab with an 8ft bed. 230k.
SOLD 7/8/15 at 240k
1996 GMC K3500 CCLB Dually-"Mandingo" 150K
4" Diamond Eye Exhaust,Banks Boost & EGT gauges in a pillar,Banks drop in air filter,Heath Turbo Master,Heath Max Etorq Tow Tune,GM Steel Cowl Hood,Lund Visor,225/70/19.5's,Steelies Painted Black off a P30 Grumman's Van with 6" Chrome Spikes,Led Interior & Exterior Light, Reverse LED PODS,Cross Drilled & Slotted Rotors,Stainless Steel Goodridge Brake Lines,Lubrication Specialist's SS Oil Cooler Lines

Last edited by ForeverFalcon40; 12-17-2015 at 06:33 AM.
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
Rattler1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForeverFalcon40 View Post
I usually copy and paste links from my photobucket.

I can't edit my OP
Nice write up!

There is about a half hour limit on editing previous posts. Contact freddyack or diaric or another moderator. Maybe you can quote your OP, add the pictures, post it and then one of them can replace the original post with that.
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OPS mod
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Upper intake web removed
Dorman lifetime PMD w/#9 resistor relocated behind the front license plate
Battery terminal mod
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Fuel filter/manager raised 8"
Boost gauge
otherwise pretty much stock
2015 F250 crew cab long bed 6.7 powerstroke

Last edited by Rattler1; 12-17-2015 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 12-17-2015, 11:26 AM   #9 (permalink)
vstech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForeverFalcon40 View Post
Is there anyway to edit the Original Post with pics?
if you add the pics to your post, I or another mod can place the pics in your original post where they need to be.
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Old 12-17-2015, 11:32 AM   #10 (permalink)
57diesel
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It should be obvious once there are photos but adding DRW or dually to the subject may be handy. Could be some confused by the differences or someone specifically looking for a how to on a dually.

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