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Old 03-04-2015, 12:31 AM   #1 (permalink)
canweld
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GM8 Turbo rebuild kit.

So on my $1000 beater I tore into it a bit due to it not running. not saying this was part of the problem but it was not good. The stock turbo when spun by finger would only keep spinning about 1/2" and had about 1/4" play up and down. Also a audible grinding could be hear when spinning by hand.

Granted I have a lot of issues with this truck trying to pin point why it wont idle or run to one thing at this point seemed ridiculous, so I just started with the basics. Air fuel ignition. Ive cleaned up the intake and pulled the turbo. After finding a rebuild/service kit for the turbo for about $120 on rockauto I decided to order it and start pulling turbo apart. Ive google and searched the site for info but All i found on the site was a cheap $50 chinese kit a guy asked about and on google a blurrry picture post on some other site, If I wanted clear pictures Id have to sign up and I did not feel like subbing to another forum.

So the kit is in the mail and I started to tear down this old turbo. First and formost getting the 4 studs off from the DP was really hard due to rust and age of it. Almost seems like it was never done since stock except for some tell signs once I got into it. I will explain in a bit.

Some shots pre tear down.

gq9q6qc.jpg

3bLcVjv.jpg

cleaned up the housing a bit. painted after sanding out some scuffs and dings. this is purely for looks

GnhVUvP.jpg

The housing was leaking and output soot and oil. here is a shot of how dirty it is. also a bunch of oil spatter all over the engine and fenders. no shot of that.

22kKXxX.jpg

taking off the nut for the compressor it in theory should come off nice and easy. Not the case with mine After soaking for a few days i really had to tap on the turbine stud with hammer to get any movement. a light pry and more tapping finally got it off in about 1 hour time

2tls3V0.jpg

also note the two allen head bolts, there are two holes in this part. they don't go all the way through and my rebuild kit is suppose to have a new part in it. Again this disk though I dont know the name for it, the two holes that didnt have torq screws in it are not threaded and not right through the part. I had to cut some threads in them and put these bolts in just to get it removed. in a half decent turbo this part should not be so hard to remove.

ahZmblc.jpg

once the disk is out this is what you will see. remove the torx bolts. T10 I beleve. they maybe had 10 in' lbs on them.

ujmFR2H.jpg

also note the high temp silicon in the oil passage here. I beleve this turbo at one point was taken apart and high temp orange silicon was used to try and seal up some oil leaks. which is why I had trouble taking it apart,

nl6uZZ4.jpg

treJf05.jpg

not sure if this is normal to have silicon on these parts. Will make some calls or take any input from members about this but I think this is one of the quik fix on my truck which seems on par with other problems i been having. Its honestly 120$ kit to rebuild turbo or worst case 340 for a new cartridge

once the brass part is removed this is what you will see. from right to left the parts will come out leaving a final snap ring in the hole. dont remove the snap ring.

ZcMQEkv.jpg

CCbWiMf.jpg

Now flip it over to the turbine side or the exhaust side.

UANDonV.jpg

There will be a snap ring first, My pliers were too small so I used a flathead screwdriver. Again I Think the kit come with new ones so not worried about damage.

UANDonV.jpg

cleaned up a bit shows snap ring.

sdKViDk.jpg

believe these are the journal bearings, Hell im a welder right...

e89bWzW.jpg

To get them out I had modified a pair of tweezers. heres is a shot.

tdl6x02.jpg

just bent about 1/8" out on each side.

once they are pulled out again a snap ring is on the inside, just leave it.


So with that all apart I soaked it in brake clean and in general just cleaned it inside a and outside. Ocd me will likely paint it once truck is running with a high temp paint. Im still waiting on the rebuild kit to put it back together. I took some other steps that many might not agree with but here are the shots.

scraped the oil return gasket off. very stuck on.

tpQWIC1.jpg

cleaned it up some. also ported the casting a bit to take out a really rough edge. amounts to jack crap im sure. but while in rome.

RG0865f.jpg

i own a lathe and well some carbon build up....

DxWA1XC.jpg

rAr0VDm.jpg

SpJ4GyF.jpg

7lSmhNP.jpg

m26zXXx.jpg

also fighting some bolts and studs

Civ5weZ.jpg

VzM4mQh.jpg

and just some cleaning

ZPvbUTn.jpg

Hopefully my Kit shows up in a day or two and I can put it back together with some pictures also.

Also if anyone has any input on the high temp silicone I dont think it should be in there but am really not sure, if you cant tell. I just dove into this. lol hope this can help some people anyways.

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Last edited by Diaric; 03-05-2015 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
chevy410
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Good pics. Thanks

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Old 03-04-2015, 10:23 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I excellent write up! Thanks! I have wondered doing this myself.
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Old 03-05-2015, 06:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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NO RTV is allowed anywhere near a turbo, period, end of story.

Is the compressor wheel damaged?

Did you mark the compressor wheel with the shaft so it goes back the same way? They are balanced as a set.

Nice job in cleaning it up, also make sure there is no carbon on the turbine shaft seal area.
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Old 03-05-2015, 07:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
canweld
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Parts came in!

Ok, so my rebuild kit came in, put the kid down for a nap and got to work.

Here it is in all its glory

pJ7Aepj.jpg

So we will start on the exhaust side as its simple enough. I used some engine assembly grease on these. They simply will slid in till they rest on the snap rings we left in from tear down. the kit comes with 4 snap rings, replace if you want but I didnt see a need to replace the inner rings just the outer.

XYrxCAB.jpg

7C9zcGK.jpg

ps- I stick my finger in some pictures to help the camera focus. it has a hard time with shinny surfaces.

Next we flip the unit over. lube up the other journal bearing and drop it in

JXnTmjP.jpg

Now place the (Thrust collar?) on top of the bearing, no snap ring on this side.

uCzMsA7.jpg

Now the Thrust plate goes on, only one way to get it on. Some say use loc tite on these screws. I dont have torque specs but they were finger tight on removal.

UQBlye0.jpg

Now we need to assemble the thrust bearing (?) the kit forgot an o-ring so I had to remove one from the old part. once both are on we push this in the back side of the end cap. I was able to do it just with my hands.

digpF7f.jpg

luBtgXL.jpg

daS3RFJ.jpg

Front side

bcAAPUZ.jpg

Apply some hi temp silicone around the rim. Try not to get any in the oil passage. I went a bit heavy, my bad.

QFMHFo3.jpg

Line up the long oil passage slots and slide into position. before pushing all the way down look in the screw holes and try to get it lined up as best as can.

V6TKsXl.jpg

Put the screws back in. **** The kit came with new allen key style and they were pretty small. I opted to reuse the T20 from factory. Just my preffrence**** wipe away the silicon after its tight. Again I lack a spec.

aYQKJUF.jpg

Next I had to remove the o ring here. I used a small file to clean up some carbon build up and installed the new ring.

29Dxq86.jpg

sBXxrJg.jpg

kit claimed to come with a new heat shield but it did not. I cleaned up the old one and reused it.

tnnTqRD.jpg

H3dhQO4.jpg

Lubed up the shaft and slide it in.

JIKNSMf.jpg

Slide the wheel on and re install the nut. I had some damage on the end of my shaft and no dies to cut left hand threads. I tried to track some down locally but could not. I ended up putting my shaft back into the lathe and cutting some threads back. This likely was m own fault from hitting it with a hammer handle to hard during removal.

UPt1Xf8.jpg

DGpCTDI.jpg

Be sure to put this nut on the right way. one side has a machined face to be true and flat the other is just rounded.

Tighten up the nut using a 10mm wrench and 13mm socket on the rear. after it was snug I spun it a bit to check for grinding, using a hammer handle tapping on the back side to make sure the rings slide in nice and tighten the 10mm some more. repeat this until no more gains are made. test spin again for grinding.

t2SMbcy.jpg

I still have to clean up threads and get old studs out of the housing. Also got the deer in the headlight looks at the part store asking for the gaskets. I will update later tonight when I have the complete unit back together.
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Last edited by Diaric; 03-05-2015 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 03-05-2015, 08:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
Diaric
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Excellent post sir. I uploaded all the images which made them fit the page better. Now they wont overwhelm browsers and your text. This should go in the FAQs when its complete.

Someone PM myself or Freddyack if it slips past us.
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Old 03-05-2015, 08:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
canweld
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I will have to keep that in mind for pictures. I just use my phone and upload to imgur then use the bbcode link for simplicity. Thanks!
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Old 03-05-2015, 10:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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This should go in the FAQs when its complete.

Someone PM myself or Freddyack if it slips past us.
Added to FAQs.

X2 on the excellent write up and look forward to updates
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Old 03-06-2015, 12:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
canweld
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
NO RTV is allowed anywhere near a turbo, period, end of story.

Is the compressor wheel damaged?

Did you mark the compressor wheel with the shaft so it goes back the same way? They are balanced as a set.

Nice job in cleaning it up, also make sure there is no carbon on the turbine shaft seal area.
Sorry I missed this. So you will see I did put high temp silicon back on, from what I could dig up it came from factory that way. Any other post I had found on other forums all indicated they also did this. I just made sure not to get it inside of the turbo.

I should add a part about marking it, I did but did not document it. There was no damage to the wheel. I was more worried about the shaft. Having the lathe was a big advantage for cleaning up the carbon build up but it could be done by hand.

I was hoping to get the rest done tonight but my extractor broke off in a bolt and my welder crapped out or something. I just called it a night. Tomorrow when I wont upset the neighborhood I should be able to use my truck welder to get the last two bolts out.
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Last edited by canweld; 03-06-2015 at 12:10 AM. Reason: stuff
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Old 03-06-2015, 09:54 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I plan to do this on my spare GM8... this spring is going to be my play time I think...

I'm planning to order a steel crank, pistons, heads, etc and go through my spare 6.5 to install in the firebird.

stay tuned!

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