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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 01-22-2015, 03:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
HeavyChevy95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rattler1 View Post
The ABS light blinked a couple times here and there while I was driving. I checked the codes again and came up with only a 25, and 12 but I think that is 'normal. I'm going to check into it further when the weather is a little nicer.
12 is SOP (normal). 25 is left front WSS. I wished I had the option to wait for warmer weather.. Forced to go BOATing in the cold this past weekend.. hated it..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rattler1 View Post
For the code 36 on the engine, could that have been related to me working on the FFM and possibly getting some air in the system?
Yes, air infiltration can generate a grocery list of DTCs, specially if you follow steps 3 and 4 of the factory procedure. Excessive cranking typicaly generates a grocery list of spooky DTCs. Thats why your supposed to CLEAR DTCs whenever your done "Bleeding Air From Fuel Supply System" and/or completed with ANY fuel system related maint and/or repairs... That last step is often skipped or ignored assuming the tech or DIY is even aware of it. Any left over DTC's may further complicate if not mislead near future diagnosis as you now have discovered..
Thats why I make it a practice to check for, make note of, and clear DTC's before as well as after any maint or repairs, just so I know if the DTC(s) were there beforehand or a result of whatever I just did..

Good Luck..




BTW.. I have found a way to thoroughly check aprox 95% of the 6.5's fuel supply system for potential air leaks in under 15 minutes.. Care to know how?


Last edited by HeavyChevy95; 01-22-2015 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 01-22-2015, 03:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
Rattler1
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That would be helpful.

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94 Suburban 2500 4x4 F vin 149k and ticking
Claymore grille ornament
Fan clutch mod to fix overheating problem
OPS mod
Straight factory piped weed burner
Snorkel lobotomy
Walbro frc10 and pre-LP filter(bypassed for now)
Upper intake web removed
Dorman lifetime PMD w/#9 resistor relocated behind the front license plate
Battery terminal mod
50+ cetane diesel from Southern States
Fuel filter/manager raised 8"
Boost gauge
otherwise pretty much stock
2015 F250 crew cab long bed 6.7 powerstroke
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Old 01-23-2015, 08:55 AM   #13 (permalink)
HeavyChevy95
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DS models, the IP fuel inlet supply hose is easily accessible and provides an excellent place to connect a hand vac pump w/ gage to pull a good 20"- 25" vacuum and observe the gage.
But first preparation which brings up a couple things to note before proceeding..

Tools needed: Hand op vac pump w/ gage and a few basic hand tools.
Tip: Having a valve stem and hand (bicycle) pump w/ psi gauge or fuel gage tapped into the end of the WIF drain hose will help in quickly finding any potential leaks that may of been discovered, see leaking below..

NOTE: Theres a couple o-rings used to seal the fuel sender and liftpump fuel line(s) connection(s). Depending on where you chose and to further expedite the test, plan on replacing both applicable o-rings (see FAQs for sizes) at the conclusion of the test to ensure an air tight seal/reassembly..

NOTE: If your fuel hoses, specifically the IP fuel inlet supply hose is old, hard, stiff, brittle, non pliable and/or already shows signs of cracking or sounds like a bowl of rice crispies when barely touched, plan on replacing it and all the others under the intake manifold to and from the FFM, return hoses, and WIF drain hose asap even if the test indicates its all good.. Like tires, rubber components such as fuel hoses, FFM o-rings, seals, etc should be inspected and replaced at least once if not twice a decade.. Fuel hoses are often one of those schelduled maint items thats always neglected until it either cost a couple needless PMD and/or IP replacements or starts to actually leak fuel. If it was only that easy all the time but the fact is many AIR LEAKS dont leak fuel or show any wet spots to indicate a leak is developing..
Air infiltration, fuel contamination and fuel restrictions is the 6.5s real kryptonite, not PMD goblins.. All im sayin' about that, lets proceed.



Quick Check
1. If easily accessible, disconnect and plug the fuel sender supply line feeding the lift pump. If not, move to the LP and cap off the fuel supply line feeding the FFM and IP there. The objective here is to quickly but temporarily cap or plug the fuel system supply line as far away from the IP as quickly possible to maximize "test coverage" area..

2. Disconnect the IP fuel inlet supply hoses, connect the vac pump, apply 20"-25" vacuum and observe the gage.

Vacuum should hold firm and indefinitely. If not, how quickly or slowly vacuum is lost indicates the size of the problem..
Try to do this test without draining all the fuel out of the lines, FFM, etc.. Keep it wet for the first test in case a leak is found.

If no leak is found, restore the fuel supply system, bleed air, and clear DTCs..







LEAKING
If you discover a leak, an easy way I found to FIND the leak is to pressurize the system while you still have the system capped or plugged off at the tank or LP. I used an old bicycle inner tube valve stem and my daughters bicycle air pump with gage.. Your local bicycle, tire, or tractor supply can likely hook you up with an old valvestem assembly or new tubeless valve stem for a few bucks that doesnt require cutting up an old/new inner tube.
Objective is to install valve stem into IP Inlet fuel supply hose and slowly pressurize the system to 15-20psi. If theres fuel still in the line, any potential air/fuel leaks will begin leaking fuel or hissing air or spitting air and fuel to help in the search. Fix as required, repeat until the system holds 20psi indefinitely... then repeat the vacuum test to quickly check your work..

The FFM and surrounding area are good breeding grounds and hang out for most annoying airheads...
Most rough smokey start ups not caused by faulty GPs or worn injectors are most likely caused by airheads developing and gathering in the FFM when parked for extended periods eg overnight, all weekend or weeks on end..
Its also possible for these airheads to sit and linger in the top of the FFM (air rises) until vehicle movement dislodges the air bubble or increased fuel demand sweeps them up and unannounced is forced to self purge. Self purge may cause several driveability symptoms as well as set numerous DTCs indicating faulty OS, CPS, PMD, and/or IP, cause the engine to fishbite or if more severe can cause an intermittent skip, buck and jump around violently (poor/rough idle quality), or if severe enough, can even cause the engine to just shut off as if a ghost turned the ignition off..

IMHO its this last "engine just quits" symptom thats nothing but a little known thus misidentified PCM ghost (PCM's Safety Chief) is routinely being mistaken for as just another passing PMD goblin... HTH GL
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Old 01-23-2015, 09:05 AM   #14 (permalink)
HeavyChevy95
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Speaking of cold weather..


"Diesel fuels are more prone to water attraction and subsequent separation when subject to temperature swings. A fuel's composition and temperature affect the amount of water it can hold. Generally, the higher in aromatic content and the warmer the fuel, the more water it can hold in solution. That's usually not a problem until the fuel is cooled, causing the water to be released and settle at the bottom of a storage tank."


FTR. Our fuel tank is heated via fuel return system each time the vehicle is operated. How much of a temp change depends on how long the vehicle is operated. Thats why its a good practice with engine at operating temp, to drain the WIF drain valve more frequently during the winter months even if your using treatments and/or additives..
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