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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 02-22-2015, 07:23 AM   #11 (permalink)
HeavyChevy95
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Leopard spotting.. Microbial Bacteria in Diesel Fuel

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Old 02-22-2015, 09:15 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyChevy95 View Post
Thanks HeavyChevy, guys I've reviewed many of the algae in diesel fuel sites and what I have does not look like this. I'll post up a sample later today, I have perfectly clear amber fuel with black flecks in the bottom.
I'm starting to think from the feedback on this thread it is my tank liner. I did mention I had a fuel tank implosion due to the vented cap not functioning correctly, the tank was dropped and knocked back into shape with a dowel, that may have started the liner to releasing from the steel tank. I didn't mention I ran B100 biodiesel for about 2 years when I was making it a few years back.
Question, the tank liner, is it just paint? Or something else?
Pics to follow this PM.
Thanks for all the help.
Mark

PS( so far the SEPAR marine filter is grabbing it well!).

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'Das Boot' 98 Burb 2500 LT 4x4 VIN G, 4:10's 206K miles, Orig Engine, Dual Remote Bypass/full flow filters, Rotella/Delo, Turbo Master, Heath ECU Reflash Towing Tune, Heath P-38 turbo, Duraterm GP's, Walbro FRC-13 LP, Bilstein HD's, SEPAR marine diesel water separator between tank and LP, Vac Pump Delete, Power steering cooler, Fluid Damper, DTech remote bumper mount PMD, Heath Straight through 4" exhaust, Heath HD Cooling Upgrade, Wrapped 2.5" Crossover, Heath Cold Air box & Filter, Fumoto Drain, Alcoa Centerline Wheels, Rear Disc Brakes, P/S Cooler, Ride Rite Airbags, Walking J Dash clamps, Michelin 235-85R-16 Rib, Heated Powered Towing Mirrors, Projector Headlights, Solenoid Headlight Upgrade.
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:59 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Apparently it is an algae bloom in my tank. I tried to post pics but the uploader kept rejecting them as too large. On the iPad here I couldn't seem to reduce resolution, yet I'm certain it's the algae. So I put in a bottle of Powerservice Bioclean. I got the last bottle... I will follow the procedure for two tanks on Bioclean then two more tanks on Seafoam, hopefully my problem will be over.
FWIW: I picked up a second bottle of Bioclean at Wally's and found it to be the last bottle as well. Sooooo,,,,, maybe some stations locally are passing some water???
Thanks for all who offered help.
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'Das Boot' 98 Burb 2500 LT 4x4 VIN G, 4:10's 206K miles, Orig Engine, Dual Remote Bypass/full flow filters, Rotella/Delo, Turbo Master, Heath ECU Reflash Towing Tune, Heath P-38 turbo, Duraterm GP's, Walbro FRC-13 LP, Bilstein HD's, SEPAR marine diesel water separator between tank and LP, Vac Pump Delete, Power steering cooler, Fluid Damper, DTech remote bumper mount PMD, Heath Straight through 4" exhaust, Heath HD Cooling Upgrade, Wrapped 2.5" Crossover, Heath Cold Air box & Filter, Fumoto Drain, Alcoa Centerline Wheels, Rear Disc Brakes, P/S Cooler, Ride Rite Airbags, Walking J Dash clamps, Michelin 235-85R-16 Rib, Heated Powered Towing Mirrors, Projector Headlights, Solenoid Headlight Upgrade.
San Angelo TX
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Old 02-23-2015, 02:44 AM   #15 (permalink)
nsdtk
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I'll never go the algee killer and keep driving route again. Personally I'd flush the system Out. I had a fuel system failure on a Duramax after I used algee killer. Best I could tell it had gotten past the filter.
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Old 02-23-2015, 07:49 AM   #16 (permalink)
guybb3
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I think it's bugs. Use a Biocide. Tank breaking down, is silver flecks, both happened to me.

EDIT: Sorry I posted this after only reading the first page. You can get inexpensive Biocide at any Marine supply.
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Old 02-23-2015, 11:44 AM   #17 (permalink)
HeavyChevy95
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See DS handbook, page 27 "Fuel Contamination Inspection and Cleaning."

Those fuel additive and fuel treatments are somewhat effective at killing bugs and fungusesss, ie stopping it from advancing but they do little to remove there dead corpses and all the black sludgey fuel strainer/filter clogging s'it that contributes to alot of unwanted corrossion (rust) that can lead to extensive if not expensive fuel injection system damage while you continue treating for weeks, R&Ring fuel filter elements every weekend till it passes, if ever.. Fighting to keep the fuel strainer from becoming plugged up, should be replaced to avoid cavitating (prematurely burning up) the lift pump and/or OPS..

Or you could spend a day refurbishing, rebuilding and repairing the system as necessary. I suspect your fuel tank implosion likely damaged the fuel sender, kinked the supply line that was "straightened or replaced" when the tank was hammered out?
If replaced, the pre-assembled sender was likely installed with the incorrect (gasoline) fuel strainer which can create havoc, leads to fuel starvation, lp cavitation resulting in frequent LP and OPS replacements.
With frustrasion mounting, lets install a bigger aftermarket fuel pump and filtration system on it..
If you removed the fuel strainer in lue of an "in-line" fuel filter on the suction side of the lift pump as most assume is best, think again... Suction / Vacuum Side Diesel Fuel Filters.

NEVER use a fuel strainer and an in-line pre-lift pump fuel filter together, one or the other, never both. Together is most restrictive and can cause even those high dollar lift pumps to quickly cavitate, overheat and burn up within days, if not in a few short hours of replacement in cold weather operation...
High dollar lift pumps, elaborate filtration systems, and LPR mods are nice "upgrades" but totally unnecessary when the fuel system is religiously maintained, regularly serviced and repaired properly as is necessary.
Half assing the 6.5 is a sure recipe for some serious cashburn later.... Having our lift pump OUTSIDE the fuel tank may seem like a huge convenience our gasoline counterparts dont have HOWEVER just because our lift pump is externally mounted, doesnt change the proper lift pump replacement procedure. Drop, clean, inspect fuel tank, fuel sender, and replace the fuel strainer is almost never done until the fuel strainer and/or filtration system is completely clogged up and burning up those high dollar aftermarket lift pumps.

In nearly all cases, 6.5l diesel "upgrades" are little more than band aids intended to slow the bleeding, not fix the problem properly and often only achieves o kick the can a lil further down the road till the can has become a 20 lb bowling ball. Kinda cool at first, nice to watch it roll but hurts a lil more each time we have to kick it, only to bitch when it becomes a reoccurring festering pain in our cash.




FWIW
Baldwin Resource Literature Library- TSB's
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Old 02-23-2015, 12:32 PM   #18 (permalink)
nsdtk
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Male sure you buy good quality fuel from a station that sells a lot of diesel. Buying good fuel even if it's more expensive is cheeper in the long run. I personally only burn Pilot Flying J in my 6.5Ls since they move a large volume of fuel and have B10 - B15. Bio has helped the fuel system on my truck but it did sluge a filter when I first started using it and some of your issues could be vanish n dirt being cleaned by Bio blends that are becoming more available, and they don't have to list it on the pump.
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Old 02-23-2015, 12:34 PM   #19 (permalink)
nsdtk
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I'll add having just seen where you were using B100. Did you upgrade the rubber lines when you did that or run the OEM fuel lines. Bio over B20 will corrode standard rubber lines And gaskets
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Old 02-24-2015, 05:56 AM   #20 (permalink)
guybb3
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I forgot to add that after I had my bug problem, I have poisoned my fuel with Biocide ever since. It's cheap insurance and I have never had another problem.

__________________
96 1500 4x4 suburban F-series engine
3 to 4 inch exhaust
Oilguard bypass oil filter with additional permacool dual remote oil filters adapted to take two 1 1/2 quart Mobil 1 m1-403 filters---10.5 quart capacity now
B&M Deep Tranny Pan
Remote fuel filter with 1R-0749 CAT 2 micron filter or Donaldson P551000 and 200 watt electric pad heater
Walbro FRB-5 Lift Pump
Dipaco Remote FSD with #9 resistor behind bumper
1999 High capacity (opt K47) Air box-Amsoil EaO filter
AT&T Turbo-Vacuum pump deleted
4 wheel disc brakes-4 headlight on Mod
Member #1 of The Diesel Place Black Belt Club
---------------------
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