1992 Chevy 2500 new life! - Page 32 - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums
 
Home Forum Market Place Garage Tuning Library DTC Tool Register Vendors
Go Back   Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums > GM Diesel Engines > 6.5L Diesel Engine
Register FAQ Forum Rules My Replies My Threads Mark Forums Read Advertise

6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

DieselPlace.com is the premier Duramax Diesel Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Like Tree241Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 03-12-2015, 12:55 PM   #311 (permalink)
Chevyworkhorse
Diesel Head
 
Chevyworkhorse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SEATTLE
Posts: 514
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyxxxinsane View Post
i bought an oil filter cutter and bought like 12 different oil filters and Purolater, Wix, Napa, Bosch, and Mobil 1 where among the best.... Fram uses thin-lined paper, K&N uses a mild paper like construction paper felt, micro guard isnt any better, Motorcraft is close to Purolator surprisingly, AC Delco is just like a Fram. So there are your options lol
Just got call my new filter is in.

WIX Oil filter
Part Number:57099
UPC Number:765809570993

Details from another thread 'Oil Cooler Lines' that I found helpful when ordering.


Number:57099 UPC Number:765809570993 Principle Application:Chev/GMC Trks + Vans w/ 7.4L, 8.1L (99-07) Applications Style:Spin-On Lube Filter Service:Lube Type:Full Flow Media:Paper Height:3.306 Outer Diameter Top:3.66 Outer Diameter Bottom:Closed: Thread Size:13/16-16 By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI:None Anti-Drain Back Valve:Yes Beta Ratio:2/20=6/20 Burst Pressure-PSI:245 Max Flow Rate:9-11 GPM Nominal Micron Rating:21

Gasket Diameters NumberO.D.I.D.Thk. Attached 3.4443.1000.260

A 6.5 filter is this:
Part Number:51060 UPC Number:765809510609 Principle Application:Chevrolet/GMC Trucks (91-05), Hummer (93-06) Applications Style:Spin-On Lube Filter Service:Lube Type:Full Flow Media:Paper Height:5.178 Outer Diameter Top:3.66 Outer Diameter Bottom:Closed: Thread Size:13/16-16 By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI:None Anti-Drain Back Valve:Yes Beta Ratio:2/20=6/20 Burst Pressure-PSI:270 Max Flow Rate:9-11 GPM Nominal Micron Rating:21
Gasket Diameters NumberO.D.I.D.Thk. Attached 3.4443.1000.260



__________________
SOLD - 1992 (MFD is 03/92) Chevy 2500, 6.5L (F) Turbo, 188K, Black, Stanadyne manual IP DB2-4911, 3rd owner, Monroe Reflex shocks, Brand new Batteries (x2), Leroy Oil cooler lines, new OEM Power Steering Pump, new Gates K061010 Serpentine Belt, OEM belt tensioner, AC Delco Tstat, new heather inlet hose I-2F, oil filter adapter removal and install direct smaller WIX Oil filter #57099 and Block heater plug access via drivers front fender, FFM & IP Transfer Pump Cap 3/8'' 1/2''-20 Fuel MOD, relocated FFM to drivers side of intake, brand new OEM radiator, new radiator cap, lower and upper new hoses, new hose clamps, Glow-Shift Fuel Pressure and Turbo Boost Gauges, in custom made dashboard housing, 32" CREE LED Curved Work Light Bar. Fresh Oil change, transmission, break fluids flush and bleeding and rear axle check just completed last few months. This Chevy now runs perfectly, everything works and is reliable.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-12-2015, 10:18 PM   #312 (permalink)
Chevyworkhorse
Diesel Head
 
Chevyworkhorse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SEATTLE
Posts: 514
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

so just picked up my new oil filter and due to I complained about another item, they gave me another filter (normal one) for free. Perfect as I can keep the adapter and filter together if I plan on putting back on Truck or sell later.

Here shows the difference between OEM normal Oil filter and the smaller one.



Details on each of the filters

Small Filter
Number:57099
UPC Number:765809570993
Principle Application:Chev/GMC Trks + Vans w/ 7.4L, 8.1L (99-07)
Applications Style:Spin-On Lube Filter Service:Lube Type:Full Flow Media:Paper Height:3.306 Outer Diameter Top:3.66 Outer Diameter Bottom:Closed: Thread Size:13/16-16 By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI:None Anti-Drain Back Valve:Yes Beta Ratio:2/20=6/20 Burst Pressure-PSI:245 Max Flow Rate:9-11 GPM Nominal Micron Rating:21
Gasket Diameters NumberO.D.I.D.Thk. Attached 3.4443.1000.260

Larger Oil Filter (Normal 6.5 filter)
Part Number:51060
UPC Number:765809510609
Principle Application:Chevrolet/GMC Trucks (91-05), Hummer (93-06) Applications Style:Spin-On Lube Filter Service:Lube Type:Full Flow Media:Paper Height:5.178 Outer Diameter Top:3.66 Outer Diameter Bottom:Closed: Thread Size:13/16-16 By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI:None Anti-Drain Back Valve:Yes Beta Ratio:2/20=6/20 Burst Pressure-PSI:270 Max Flow Rate:9-11 GPM Nominal Micron Rating:21
Gasket Diameters NumberO.D.I.D.Thk. Attached 3.4443.1000.260

__________________
SOLD - 1992 (MFD is 03/92) Chevy 2500, 6.5L (F) Turbo, 188K, Black, Stanadyne manual IP DB2-4911, 3rd owner, Monroe Reflex shocks, Brand new Batteries (x2), Leroy Oil cooler lines, new OEM Power Steering Pump, new Gates K061010 Serpentine Belt, OEM belt tensioner, AC Delco Tstat, new heather inlet hose I-2F, oil filter adapter removal and install direct smaller WIX Oil filter #57099 and Block heater plug access via drivers front fender, FFM & IP Transfer Pump Cap 3/8'' 1/2''-20 Fuel MOD, relocated FFM to drivers side of intake, brand new OEM radiator, new radiator cap, lower and upper new hoses, new hose clamps, Glow-Shift Fuel Pressure and Turbo Boost Gauges, in custom made dashboard housing, 32" CREE LED Curved Work Light Bar. Fresh Oil change, transmission, break fluids flush and bleeding and rear axle check just completed last few months. This Chevy now runs perfectly, everything works and is reliable.

Last edited by Chevyworkhorse; 03-12-2015 at 10:20 PM.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-13-2015, 12:11 AM   #313 (permalink)
Crazyxxxinsane
In Rememberance of Sam
 
Crazyxxxinsane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Manitowoc, Wi
Posts: 1,214
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via Yahoo to Crazyxxxinsane

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

Badger State Diesel Club Member

thats the short one i use when i dont use purolator!!!!! hahahahaha!! nice job there!!
__________________
1995 Chevrolet K1500 4x4 ECSB - 230,xxx Miles - New PMD and Relocation kit - Custom 3" bent down pipe and cross over -Pillar Gauge Pod -Rancho Steering Stabilizer HX40W Turbo -New Harmonic Balancer - 8k HID headlights -"Buddy Chip" - OPS/LP Relay kit installed - New Heavy rear coil over shocks - new glow plugs -"F" Style intake - EGR Delete
1994 Chevrolet K1500 Reg Cab Long Box - Gifted to my father for a surprise
1998 GMC ECLB Dually. 197K Miles-PMD relocate-new IP last year-glow plugs-New Brakes all around-Running board lights-customized FFM relocate-rebuilt injectors-Diamond Eye Exhaust
Proud member #1097 of the 3500 Dually Club
Proud member of the
Old SOB's Club
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-13-2015, 01:04 PM   #314 (permalink)
Chevyworkhorse
Diesel Head
 
Chevyworkhorse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SEATTLE
Posts: 514
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

So to allow for installing the smaller oil filter you need to un-install the thread from oil adapter.

This is easy to do once off the truck and with the use of a long 24mm socket with long wrench bar this will come off easily.

Secured oil adapter in vice


24'' long socket connected to long wrench bar




unscrew by hand, this thread part will now be screwed into the block and allow for the smaller filter to be installed


Last steps of install will be uploaded later.
__________________
SOLD - 1992 (MFD is 03/92) Chevy 2500, 6.5L (F) Turbo, 188K, Black, Stanadyne manual IP DB2-4911, 3rd owner, Monroe Reflex shocks, Brand new Batteries (x2), Leroy Oil cooler lines, new OEM Power Steering Pump, new Gates K061010 Serpentine Belt, OEM belt tensioner, AC Delco Tstat, new heather inlet hose I-2F, oil filter adapter removal and install direct smaller WIX Oil filter #57099 and Block heater plug access via drivers front fender, FFM & IP Transfer Pump Cap 3/8'' 1/2''-20 Fuel MOD, relocated FFM to drivers side of intake, brand new OEM radiator, new radiator cap, lower and upper new hoses, new hose clamps, Glow-Shift Fuel Pressure and Turbo Boost Gauges, in custom made dashboard housing, 32" CREE LED Curved Work Light Bar. Fresh Oil change, transmission, break fluids flush and bleeding and rear axle check just completed last few months. This Chevy now runs perfectly, everything works and is reliable.

Last edited by Chevyworkhorse; 03-13-2015 at 01:06 PM.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-14-2015, 02:57 AM   #315 (permalink)
Chevyworkhorse
Diesel Head
 
Chevyworkhorse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SEATTLE
Posts: 514
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Removing and replacing Oil cooler lines on Chevy 6.5L Truck

Part 1 – removing oil cooler lines

Disclaimer: Please note how I completed this work, was after reading a lot of threads on this forum, getting great advice from certain people in my build thread and taking the view that how people did there’s won’t always work on your truck. So here is how I managed to do mine without cutting the crap out of my hands and spending hours working on the truck.

I cannot promise how I did mine will work for yours, but I hope this helps. Be warned though, this wasn’t the nicest job to do or the easiest, but once done its very rewarding, well it was for me anyhow J

Plus I say right now all the information I write below is part mine and a lot from information I collected across the forum, so thank you to everyone for your helpful information and knowledge. You might just recognize some information or it sounds similar, it’s properly come from you so a big thank you it really is appreciated. J Right now I have that out of the way, let’s move on!!!

So why am I changing my oil cooler lines?
Let’s start off with why I am changing out my oil cooler lines. I planned on doing few jobs in the engine area on my truck and after asking what items should be done on 6.5L Chevy engine to make it reliable, this was one of those items, (great read on areas to focus on 6.5 engine is already published, include on oil cooler lines – link) plus after reviewing my oil lines they didn’t look that great, even though they were not leaking anywhere, they were the OEM versions. (Well that is what I thought anyhow!)

Seems there are few options for ordering new oil lines, here is list that I was made aware of.

1. Replace with OEM versions (not even an option – read this link and go to oil cooler lines to understand why)
The issue I read on the factory style lines is the tiny springs clips that hold on to the lines for dear life get weak, corrode and when they let loose you lose your oil, oil pressure and it can cost you a motor, which to me means they are just not reliable.
2. Leroy kit (link)
3. Lubrication Specialist kit.(link)

I end up going with Leroy oil cooler line kit due to so many people on the forum have brought this kit and really like it. Plus after I sent email to Leroy the support I got from him, not only in email, but over phone call and then helping me on questions I had throughout the whole process, I was really impressed and I can say I am really happy with the end result as you will see, thanks a lot Leroy. Leroy is also a really good guy.
Useful video I found that Leroy did can be viewed - here

Parts I ordered
1. Non HO cooler and 12 block port oil cooler kit.
http://leroydiesel.com/products/leroys-engine-oil-cooler-hose-kit-for-non-ho-cooler-and-12-block-ports

NOTE: The HO cooler have 3/8 ports at the block and non HO cooler have 1/2 ports, which I have 1/2 ports. Leroy will validate the version required as well.

2. 4×4 adapter seal kit for 92-95 (oil filter)
http://leroydiesel.com/products/4x4-adapter-seal-kit-for-92-95

3. I also ordered 1’’ open and closed scanner (this will get cut to make it fit the end fittings for installation of new kit)

Tools I used
A lot, I will explain as I go along in each step.


How does the OEM oil cooler lines fit on 6.5L

You can see that there is two oil cooler lines that are running from the back lower part of the engine block (right near the oil filter) alone the driver’s side wheel arch and then underneath the radiator and through to the front oil cooler unit itself, which can be seen looking down behind the front grill.



Removing the oil lines
I jacked up my truck on drives side putting two axle stands (safety first), so that the engine is leaning to one side to help prevent min oil from leaking out from both ends of the oil cooler lines.

Once I had the truck jacked up, I started to remove the front grill.

[SIZE=3]Here you can see the front grill. There are 8 screws holding the grill in place.


Here are the locations of screws

Passenger side top


Middle of grill


Lower middle of grill


Top middle passenger side of grill


Top middle drivers side of grill


To get the last 2 screws, you have to take out the lower lights, as the screws are behind these.


Here is the tool I used for removing the grill, but I had a 10mm socket on the end. The star shape in this picture below was used to remove the lower lights on both side.




Screws behind the lower lights once removed.


Now we have all the screws out, just pull up on the grill and out she comes J


Here is picture of all the locations of screws with grill off (please note I forgot to add the two upper middle screws, but you can see them in the above pictures) – 8 screws in total to remove.


Now you can see the front oil cooler unit itself and the pipes connecting and going through cover into the engine area.



At this point, I sprayed WD40 on the connectors, this will help to undo each of them.



So here you can see the path the oil cooler lines go within the engine area



And from underneath the truck, where the lines connect to the back lower part of the engine block.
Circle in red are the cables
Green Arrows showing the lines from engine bay area.
Circle in Green is bolt that needs to be removed as this hold the lines in place. Now to get the bolt undone, (tool I used 9mm spanner) you will need to remove the driver side wing arch (I found this was easiest way and also gave me more access to this area and light) we don’t need to do that right now, will cover this off in few steps later.


I started back at the front of the truck, with untighten the oil cooler lines to the oil cooler. In prep for this, I placed my oil catcher below and put a cloth underneath to prevent oil going all over the place.

You should only get small amount of oil out of the lines, but the oil cooler unit itself will has some.

Tools I used: I used 1’’ inch and 22mm spanners, one on the oil cooler itself (1’’) and the other one on the oil cooler line fitting (22mm). I turned the oil cooler line fitting slowly as I didn’t want to damage the oil cooler.

Lucky for me both my line fittings where not that tight and so they come off easily. One side of the pipes did twist L but it doesn’t matter as we are replacing these.


I drained the oil cooler unit itself into the oil catcher under the truck and then placed it upside down out of the way.


Right now we have the front disconnected, you might have plastic clip/clamps holding the lines, just open those clips/clamps so the lines are free to move, ready to removal in later steps.

Next in the engine area, there is another plastic clip that hold the oil cooler lines to the inner wheel arch area. Just pill the clamp and it will open up. Again this will free up the lines ready for removal.


So now we are ready to work on the lines near the rear back of the engine block. Now this is when I removed my driver’s side inner arch cover.

First make sure you have no cables or other items attached to the inner arch cover. I noticed I had few ground cables and my front spot lights unit attached so I removed these. (tool used, screw driver and 10mm spanner)


Two nuts holding those parts in place underneath the arch


Then I had the fun of removing a lot of nuts and screws to allow me to remove the inner arch. (tool used socket (1/2’’socket and wrench bar), I also noticed at the front of the arch, there is 10mm bolt connecting the arch to part of the bumper.



Then pull downwards and outwards, the inner arch will drop at the front and you can then pull it out J and you now have access to the side of your engine area.



So now I can easily get to the bolt that is holding the clamp in place to hold the oil cooler lines in place. (Tool used 9mm spanner) I also noticed that there was oil dripping from plastic cover, so me thinks one of the oil lines is leaking!! I will check more on this later.


Now onto removing the oil lines from the engine block.
So this is where I am providing you with lessons learnt. Now for whatever reason even though I was told this and read this, I didn’t do this part until later and so I really didn’t make life easier for myself. At this point I highly recommend that you disconnect your Oil adapter, this will give you lots more room to get to the oil cooler fittings to remove the lines and fittings as you will be installed new 90 deg fittings provided as part of the Leroy oil cooler kit.

Here is how to do that.

On my truck I have the oil filter adapter which can be seen in the below diagram in red box.

- To catch any oil, make sure you have an oil catcher below the area you are working.
NOTE: I had already taken off the oil filter. You do not need to drain you oil to complete this work, but I highly advice to jack up your truck on drivers side, to help keep oil on the passenger side, this will help
prevent the amount of oil from draining out from oil filter and adapter area.




Here you can see the oil filter from the driver’s side front wheel arch.




Here you can see oil filter adapter with filter still on it from underneath, with red arrows showing unit and the bolt that will allow you to unscrew and take adapter off.

[/COLOR]


- Using a 34mm socket with long bar this will allow you to undo the bolt (red circle is underside of adapter, green circle is bolt to put socket on to undo) to the left is the 4x4 shaft.


__________________
SOLD - 1992 (MFD is 03/92) Chevy 2500, 6.5L (F) Turbo, 188K, Black, Stanadyne manual IP DB2-4911, 3rd owner, Monroe Reflex shocks, Brand new Batteries (x2), Leroy Oil cooler lines, new OEM Power Steering Pump, new Gates K061010 Serpentine Belt, OEM belt tensioner, AC Delco Tstat, new heather inlet hose I-2F, oil filter adapter removal and install direct smaller WIX Oil filter #57099 and Block heater plug access via drivers front fender, FFM & IP Transfer Pump Cap 3/8'' 1/2''-20 Fuel MOD, relocated FFM to drivers side of intake, brand new OEM radiator, new radiator cap, lower and upper new hoses, new hose clamps, Glow-Shift Fuel Pressure and Turbo Boost Gauges, in custom made dashboard housing, 32" CREE LED Curved Work Light Bar. Fresh Oil change, transmission, break fluids flush and bleeding and rear axle check just completed last few months. This Chevy now runs perfectly, everything works and is reliable.

Last edited by Chevyworkhorse; 03-14-2015 at 03:27 AM.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-14-2015, 02:59 AM   #316 (permalink)
Chevyworkhorse
Diesel Head
 
Chevyworkhorse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SEATTLE
Posts: 514
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

- Once you have it loose you can undo bolt by hand, this will allow you to hold adapter with one hand and unscrew the bolt with the other hand.
Now we are going to disconnect the 4x4 as well as this will just get in your way and give you more access as well.
Tools used socket 16mm size and wrench bar, can easily undo the 4 bolts holding in place the front part of the 4x4 shaft.
Tool used sock 18mm size and long wrench bar, undo the 4 bolts holding in place the read of 4x4 shaft. You can now remove this out of the way.



So now time to get those clips out of first oil cooler line and fitting. Now I have to say this was not easy, as I could not see where the clip was placed to get a hook like screw driver into the clip to pull or push it off the fitting. So I instead put a 1’’ open spanner onto the fitting that connects to the block and by luck it turned really easily. I then by hand turned it until it disconnected from the engine block. (Now I think this was luck, but I would try it) This then allowed me to remove the first oil cooler line completely, so I can then work on the second line and fitting which is little further inwards.
(NOTICE: note in picture I didn’t remove the oil filter and adapter as I said before!)
Here is the fitting and clip to give you an idea of how small it is. That is all that holds in the oil cooler lines to the fitting, what a joke!



So with the second oil cooler line into the fitting, it was a lot easier to see and I managed to pull the clip out within few tries, as soon as the clip came out, the pipe popped off, so the second line was free and I also removed that line as well completely.
NOTICE: No oil come out at the engine block, I think this was due to me jacking up the truck.


So both lines are out J


I now used 1’’ spanner and managed to remove the second fitting in the block, put a cloth over both holes to clean off any dirt or oil and so at this point, I am ready to start the installation of the new kit J


The second hole in block from in front of the oil filter adapter (this is why its best to take that off, look how close it is!!)


Now why do I get the feeling that this part went so well, that the installation part isn’t going to be as easy or as smooth?

NOTE: Part 2 will be published over the weekend.
__________________
SOLD - 1992 (MFD is 03/92) Chevy 2500, 6.5L (F) Turbo, 188K, Black, Stanadyne manual IP DB2-4911, 3rd owner, Monroe Reflex shocks, Brand new Batteries (x2), Leroy Oil cooler lines, new OEM Power Steering Pump, new Gates K061010 Serpentine Belt, OEM belt tensioner, AC Delco Tstat, new heather inlet hose I-2F, oil filter adapter removal and install direct smaller WIX Oil filter #57099 and Block heater plug access via drivers front fender, FFM & IP Transfer Pump Cap 3/8'' 1/2''-20 Fuel MOD, relocated FFM to drivers side of intake, brand new OEM radiator, new radiator cap, lower and upper new hoses, new hose clamps, Glow-Shift Fuel Pressure and Turbo Boost Gauges, in custom made dashboard housing, 32" CREE LED Curved Work Light Bar. Fresh Oil change, transmission, break fluids flush and bleeding and rear axle check just completed last few months. This Chevy now runs perfectly, everything works and is reliable.

Last edited by Chevyworkhorse; 03-14-2015 at 03:13 AM.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-15-2015, 05:04 PM   #317 (permalink)
Chevyworkhorse
Diesel Head
 
Chevyworkhorse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SEATTLE
Posts: 514
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Due to the lovely Seattle rain (all day so far) I've been focusing on battery trays.

So the other week I started with rust treatment while on the truck, this is primary surface trust with few areas a little bit more deeper.





This is after rust treatment was left on for few hours



Due to the weather, I took the battery trays off the truck and started to work on them within my garage

Cleaned up more with wire wheel


under side is in better condition



This is my POR15 kit


I sprayed the whole unit with degreaser and then wiped down with clean cloth, I then followed up with metal prep.


First coat of paint. I leave it to dry for 2-3 hours before I put second coat on. You don't really need a second coat of paint, but due to this is battery trays, this is why I have gone for two coats.





Will leave this until tomorrow and then flip over the trays and paint the tops.
__________________
SOLD - 1992 (MFD is 03/92) Chevy 2500, 6.5L (F) Turbo, 188K, Black, Stanadyne manual IP DB2-4911, 3rd owner, Monroe Reflex shocks, Brand new Batteries (x2), Leroy Oil cooler lines, new OEM Power Steering Pump, new Gates K061010 Serpentine Belt, OEM belt tensioner, AC Delco Tstat, new heather inlet hose I-2F, oil filter adapter removal and install direct smaller WIX Oil filter #57099 and Block heater plug access via drivers front fender, FFM & IP Transfer Pump Cap 3/8'' 1/2''-20 Fuel MOD, relocated FFM to drivers side of intake, brand new OEM radiator, new radiator cap, lower and upper new hoses, new hose clamps, Glow-Shift Fuel Pressure and Turbo Boost Gauges, in custom made dashboard housing, 32" CREE LED Curved Work Light Bar. Fresh Oil change, transmission, break fluids flush and bleeding and rear axle check just completed last few months. This Chevy now runs perfectly, everything works and is reliable.

Last edited by Chevyworkhorse; 03-15-2015 at 05:05 PM.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-15-2015, 07:04 PM   #318 (permalink)
Crazyxxxinsane
In Rememberance of Sam
 
Crazyxxxinsane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Manitowoc, Wi
Posts: 1,214
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via Yahoo to Crazyxxxinsane

Old School Oil Burners (Old SOBs) Member

Badger State Diesel Club Member

Everything is looking good!!!
__________________
1995 Chevrolet K1500 4x4 ECSB - 230,xxx Miles - New PMD and Relocation kit - Custom 3" bent down pipe and cross over -Pillar Gauge Pod -Rancho Steering Stabilizer HX40W Turbo -New Harmonic Balancer - 8k HID headlights -"Buddy Chip" - OPS/LP Relay kit installed - New Heavy rear coil over shocks - new glow plugs -"F" Style intake - EGR Delete
1994 Chevrolet K1500 Reg Cab Long Box - Gifted to my father for a surprise
1998 GMC ECLB Dually. 197K Miles-PMD relocate-new IP last year-glow plugs-New Brakes all around-Running board lights-customized FFM relocate-rebuilt injectors-Diamond Eye Exhaust
Proud member #1097 of the 3500 Dually Club
Proud member of the
Old SOB's Club
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-15-2015, 08:04 PM   #319 (permalink)
Chevyworkhorse
Diesel Head
 
Chevyworkhorse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SEATTLE
Posts: 514
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Removing and replacing Oil cooler lines on Chevy 6.5L Truck



Part 2 – Installation of new Leroy oil cooler lines

Disclaimer: Please note how I completed this work, was after reading a lot of threads on this forum, getting great advice from certain people in my build thread and taking the view that how people did there’s won’t always work on your truck. So here is how I managed to do mine without cutting the crap out of my hands and spending hours working on the truck.

I cannot promise how I did mine will work for yours, but I hope this helps. Be warned though, this wasn’t the nicest job to do or the easiest, but once done its very rewarding, well it was for me anyhow J

Plus I say right now all the information I write below is part mine and a lot from information I collected across the forum, so thank you to everyone for your helpful information and knowledge. You might just recognize some information or it sounds similar, it’s properly come from you so a big thank you it really is appreciated. J Right now I have that out of the way, let’s move on!!!

So why am I changing my oil cooler lines?
Let’s start off with why I am changing out my oil cooler lines. I planned on doing few jobs in the engine area on my truck and after asking what items should be done on 6.5L Chevy engine to make it reliable, this was one of those items, (great read on areas to focus on 6.5 engine is already published, include on oil cooler lines – link) plus after reviewing my oil lines they didn’t look that great, even though they were not leaking anywhere, they were the OEM versions. (Well that is what I thought anyhow!)

Seems there are few options for ordering new oil lines, here is list that I was made aware of.

1.Replace with OEM versions (not even an option – read this link and go to oil cooler lines to understand why)
The issue I read on the factory style lines is the tiny springs clips that hold on to the lines for dear life get weak, corrode and when they let loose you lose your oil, oil pressure and it can cost you a motor, which to me means they are just not reliable.
2.Leroy kit (link)
3.Lubrication Specialist kit.(link)

I end up going with Leroy oil cooler line kit due to so many people on the forum have brought this kit and really like it. Plus after I sent email to Leroy the support I got from him, not only in email, but over phone call and then helping me on questions I had throughout the whole process, I was really impressed and I can say I am really happy with the end result as you will see, thanks a lot Leroy. Leroy is also a really good guy.
Useful video I found that Leroy did can be viewed - here

Parts I ordered
1.Non HO cooler and 12 block port oil cooler kit.
http://leroydiesel.com/products/leroys-engine-oil-cooler-hose-kit-for-non-ho-cooler-and-12-block-ports

NOTE: The HO
cooler have 3/8 ports at the block and non HO cooler have 1/2 ports, which I have 1/2 ports. Leroy will validate the version required as well.

Installation
So here is the new Leroy oil cooler lines kit

This is what you get in the kit;
- 2 x braided lines - which I can tell you straight away are not as long as the OEM’s one, but that is ok. The routing of the lines will be more direct from rear of the engine block to the front of the truck. All of that will be explained later.

- 2 x 90' degree fittings that are used to go into the engine block (see below the original fitting compared to the new kit fitting)


- 2 x fittings that go into the oil cooler unit itself and then

-
2 x 45 degree fittings that fit onto oil cooler fitting.


Both these fittings together


What you will also need to make sure you have good sealant product for the fittings. Now feedback I’ve heard from people on forum is people use various types, but I ended up using – LOCTITE 565 THREAD SEALANT. I have used this product on many fittings for oil and air and it works great. Does require drying time.


Installation of fittings onto the Oil cooler unit
Here is the oil cooler unit secure in vice. The two red circles are the locations of which you are going to install the new fittings.


Note the fitting with the o-ring end will be the part that will be going into the oil cooler fittings.

Add some Loctite sealant around the fitting and install by hand until you cannot turn the fitting anymore.


Now using two spanners or adjustable spanner, hold the bottom spanner in place and turn clock wise the top spanner to tighten down the fitting. Do not over tighten the fitting.


Now repeat that install process for the other fitting onto the oil cooler unit and leave the fittings and sealant to try for full day.


Now even after these fittings are dry and ready to install, we are not going to install the oil cooler unit back into the truck until later on, as we want the engine fittings installed first and with the new oil cooler lines installed and in place ready for the oil cooler unit to be installed as the last part of the installation.

Installation of fittings and oil cooler lines from back of engine block

So just to confirm, as part of removing the original oil cooler lines and fittings you should of removed the Oil filter, Oil filter adapter (if you have one) and the 4x4 shaft. Removing those items will have allowed you the max access to do this part of the installation, because I think anyone who has done this will tell you, you do not have much room here. The only other piece you could take off that would really give you the most access and make this job hassle free is the exhaust manifold and downpipe. Now for me, I really didn’t want to do that, I have a bad experience with exhausts, always seem to snap off bolts and didn’t really want to play that game for this job.

So here you can see where the two fitting holes are.


So here are the tools I started out with


It key you start with the installation of the first 90' degree fitting into the rear hole of the engine block.

Place some sealant (Loctite in my case) around the fitting threads

By hand turn the fitting into the rear hole of the engine block until you cannot turn it anymore.

I managed to turn the fitting 3 turns. Using 22mm spanner, clamp and adjustable pipe wrench I managed to turn the fitting until it was really tight.


Now due to the limited access, I now installed the first of the oil cooler braided lines onto the fitting. I did this by feeding the pipe through and under the engine mount and out to the front of the truck.


By hand started to install the oil cooler line fitting onto the engine block fitting.

Using 1’’ spanner, clamp and adjustable pipe wrench I managed to turn the fitting until it was really tight. (Important to tighten up the fitting using the top part of line fitting – red arrow)

You will know when it’s tight as the part that has green arrow pointing will tighten up and you won’t be able to move it.


Go back to the front of the truck and placed the oil cooler line hanging from the engine area through the hole near bumper so its placed ready for installation to oil cooler unit for later (See below photo)


Installation of second 90' degree fitting into the front hole of the engine block.
Place some sealant (Loctite in my case) around the fitting threads
By hand turn the fitting into the rear hole of the engine block until you cannot turn it anymore.

ISSUES - Now this is where I started to have problems. The fitting was catching on the exhaust manifold. (See photo’s below)



So I got out my Dremel and started to cut the exhaust manifold. Now I did this slowly so I was only cutting off the part of the manifold required. After few minutes I tested out the fitting again, this time it was really close, so I kept using the Dremel until the fitting was free to turn properly and Missed the exhaust manifold.


Photo below you can see just how much I took of the manifold.


So now I had access to install the second fitting, I placed Loctite sealant around the thread of the fitting and installed the fitting by hand until I could not turn it again. I think I got 3 turns on this one by hand.

Using 22’’ spanner, adjustable pipe wrench and crowfoot 22’’ with long bar I managed to get the fitting turned few more times, but I have to say the last full turn to get it in the direction I wanted it (facing forward) was very hard to do, but I managed the last turn by access via the wheel arch and from sideways as you can see from below photo. (This was really helpful and why I advise to take the wheel arch out as part of the removal stage I explained earlier.)


Now onto installing the second oil cooler line.
Again feed the oil cooler braided lines through and under the engine mount and out to the front of the truck.

I started to by hand turn the oil cooler braided line fitting onto the 90' degree fitting on the engine block.

You can see below the first fitting tightened up (Green Circle) and the second fitting with just one turn onto the fitting (Red circle) this photo was taken directly below,

So you can see the oil filter adapter would have been installed and 4x4 adapter on the right.


So I have to say this second oil cooler line was a pain in the $#@^ to install. Due to the exhaust being so close, I would get turning with 1’’ spanner for half and turn and then using smaller adjustable wrench I would get ¼ turn and then have to adjust wrench again to get another ¼ turn and repeat until I could get the 1’’ spanner on it again to get 1/2 turn again. This went on for few hours as my hands would loss feeling. (Advise for you, make sure you put protective glasses on, the amount of crap that kept falling into my face was not nice)

I have to admit I stop half way through and got some food and hot drink as being under a truck for more than hour working on single fitting was not fun, but at the same time I really like these kind of challenges.
So after some food, drink managed to get into a theme again and as I turned oil cooler line fitting more onto the 90' degree fitting, I noticed the 1’ spanner was get caught on exhaust, so I had cut it down to allow the spanner to turn and stay on the fitting properly.

Here is the finished product of the oil cooler lines tightened up to the engine block fittings. You can see clearly the lines going underneath the passenger side engine mount and towards to the front of truck.


View taken from the wheel arch area of the oil cooler lines


So next step is to make sure both oil cooler lines are feeding through the front of the truck and up ready to install to the oil cooler unit.
__________________
SOLD - 1992 (MFD is 03/92) Chevy 2500, 6.5L (F) Turbo, 188K, Black, Stanadyne manual IP DB2-4911, 3rd owner, Monroe Reflex shocks, Brand new Batteries (x2), Leroy Oil cooler lines, new OEM Power Steering Pump, new Gates K061010 Serpentine Belt, OEM belt tensioner, AC Delco Tstat, new heather inlet hose I-2F, oil filter adapter removal and install direct smaller WIX Oil filter #57099 and Block heater plug access via drivers front fender, FFM & IP Transfer Pump Cap 3/8'' 1/2''-20 Fuel MOD, relocated FFM to drivers side of intake, brand new OEM radiator, new radiator cap, lower and upper new hoses, new hose clamps, Glow-Shift Fuel Pressure and Turbo Boost Gauges, in custom made dashboard housing, 32" CREE LED Curved Work Light Bar. Fresh Oil change, transmission, break fluids flush and bleeding and rear axle check just completed last few months. This Chevy now runs perfectly, everything works and is reliable.

Last edited by Chevyworkhorse; 03-15-2015 at 08:09 PM.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-15-2015, 08:05 PM   #320 (permalink)
Chevyworkhorse
Diesel Head
 
Chevyworkhorse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SEATTLE
Posts: 514
iTrader Score: 0 reviews

Install of oil cooler unit and connecting the pipes to it
Learning lesson for you. Do not install the oil cooler unit to your truck, you want to hold it in place.
The reason for this is the 45’ degree fitting you install (see photo below) that is put on by hand tight only, you want to have the ability to turn those fittings to where you want them.


Below in photo you can see I have adjusted the 45’ degree fittings so they are facing inwards ready for when I pull the oil cooler lines up through that whole.
Once you have them roughly where you want turn the fittings by hand to keep them in place. (We will tighten them more once we have the oil cooler lines connected)


Now due to I still had a little oil left in my oil cooler unit, the next few steps where a little messy for me, so I only managed to take pictures after I got the next few steps done, but I here is what I did next.
I pulled through both the oil cooler lines through the hole (photo below gives you an idea). I then placed some Loctite sealant into the end of the oil cooler line fitting onto the threads.


Due to the angles, I pulled out and up the oil cooler unit itself and then by hand tightened up the right oil line to the fitting (again only by hand at this point)

Then I installed the left oil cooler line to the left fitting, now at this point you will find that your movement with oil cooler unit and second line is limited, but slowly move the oil cooler and cable together until you get the oil cooler
line.

I then placed the oil cooler back in its original position. It was at this point I noticed the passenger side (left if facing front) line was catching on the plastic, so I had to cut the plastic to allow for pipe to clear and allow the oil cooler unit to drop back down into its place to then put in the 4 bolts to hold it in place


Once in place, I then started with tightening up the 45’ degree fitting to the oil cooler unit itself, do this by putting 22’’ spanner on fitting on oil cooler unit and then another 22’ spanner on the 45’ degree fitting and turn 45’ degree fitting spanner clock wise until nice and tight. Repeat the process again on the other fitting.
You now need to tighten up the oil cooler fitting to the 45’ degree fitting. Again you need to keep 22’ spanner on 45’ degree fitting and then clock wise the oil cooler fitting until nice and tight. Repeat the process again on the other fitting.
You now have the oil cooler fittings tight

See in green circle the plastic I cut out so that oil cooler line could go through to the engine area.

Now the final stage of installation, is to make sure the oil cooler lines are placed nicely and securely in place in the engine area, so they are not in the way of any pulleys or belts.
I have yet to complete this part, but I did move my oil cooler lines together ready for when I get some clips to hold them together and then against the lower engine supports.
NOTE: Once you have tightened up the lines to the fittings, you will notice that the oil cooler lines are really tight to move, this means they are nice and tight on the fittings.
Here you can see the path of the new oil liners





There is now one final stage to complete and this is testing the oil cooler lines and fittings.
Due to I have several other jobs to complete on my engine, I wasn’t able to do this straight away, plus I wanted to allow the Loctite sealant to dry properly (I leave it for 24 hours) but what you would normally do is the following;
o Reinstall the oil adapter and oil filter
o Reinstall the 4x4 shaft
o Reinstall the wheel arch.
o Jack up and pull out the jack stands and bring truck back to level
o Check oil level and top up the oil to the required level.
o Fire up the truck and allow for the truck to get up to temperature
o Start checking the oil cooler line fittings for any sign of leaks. If you need leaks you will need to properly tighten up those fittings!
When I get to do this stage I will update this section.
Hopefully this was helpful and I for one am happy to have this work completed.

__________________
SOLD - 1992 (MFD is 03/92) Chevy 2500, 6.5L (F) Turbo, 188K, Black, Stanadyne manual IP DB2-4911, 3rd owner, Monroe Reflex shocks, Brand new Batteries (x2), Leroy Oil cooler lines, new OEM Power Steering Pump, new Gates K061010 Serpentine Belt, OEM belt tensioner, AC Delco Tstat, new heather inlet hose I-2F, oil filter adapter removal and install direct smaller WIX Oil filter #57099 and Block heater plug access via drivers front fender, FFM & IP Transfer Pump Cap 3/8'' 1/2''-20 Fuel MOD, relocated FFM to drivers side of intake, brand new OEM radiator, new radiator cap, lower and upper new hoses, new hose clamps, Glow-Shift Fuel Pressure and Turbo Boost Gauges, in custom made dashboard housing, 32" CREE LED Curved Work Light Bar. Fresh Oil change, transmission, break fluids flush and bleeding and rear axle check just completed last few months. This Chevy now runs perfectly, everything works and is reliable.
Offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

PLEASE READ! You must check your email inbox for the confirmation link to complete registration. Please check your spam box if you do not see the email in your inbox.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Question: 1992 Chevolet 2500 6.5 Turbo Diesel Power alex21 6.5/6.2 High Performance Engine Modifications 15 03-18-2014 03:47 PM
1992 Chevy 2500 6.5 Hard To Start hz36t5 6.5L Diesel Engine 16 05-29-2009 10:52 AM
F/S: 1992 2500 Suburban hhead Closed / Archived Marketplace Ads 1 12-07-2007 06:53 PM
1992 GMC 2500 Clutch problem neverenuf Duramax Second Generation: 2004.5-2005 (LLY) 0 07-22-2005 10:29 AM
1992 Diesel 6.5 2500 w/Turbo Glen B. 6.5L Diesel Engine 14 07-07-2005 08:18 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:42 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Shoutbox provided by vBShout v6.2.1 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Runs best on HiVelocity Hosting.
© AutoGuide