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Upgrading To A CS144 Alternator

31K views 49 replies 11 participants last post by  JMJNet  
#1 ·
The alternator went out on my 93 K2500, which didn't surprise me, as it was an inexpensive CS130 I got on ebay that was supposed to be upgraded to a 160 amp unit. :shake: Well it didn't actually quit charging. Something was draining my batteries overnight, and I traced it to a 4 amp draw from my alternator, which meant it had a bad diode. I'd never been very happy with this alternator because when I was idling with the A/C on, headlights, stereo, etc.. it would drop to about 13v, and as soon as the rpm's came up, it would go back to about 14v.

I decided to spend an extra $20, and upgrade to a CS144, which is a larger alternator, and the one I got is rated at 140 amp, as opposed the stock CS130 being rated at 105 amp. Here is the Orielly listing for my new alternator. Ultima 8219-5B - Alternator | O'Reilly Auto Parts
The real difference with the bigger alternator, is its charging power at idle. This alternator stays at 14v or above, even with the A/C, headlights, stereo, running while idling in drive. :thumb:
It was almost a direct swap. I had to make an upper bracket to replace the factory angled one, because the upper ear on the CS144 is much wider, and more robust. A piece of 1" wide strap worked perfectly after drilling a couple holes in it. I also had to purchase one 3/8"x3" long bolt, to use on the alternator. I had to get a slightly longer belt as well. I used a 6K1015 in place of my original 6K1005. I'm aware that most the factory alternators use an extra support bracket on the back of them, but mine was missing when I got my truck, and I never had a problem. It should be stronger than before, as the larger alternator has a much stronger upper mounting ear than the one it replaced. The plug for the CS144 is the same one used on the CS130, so everything plugged in, and worked perfectly. I had already upgraded the charge wire going to the alternator to a 4ga. wire, so that was already good to go. I took pics to show the differences in the alternators, as well as the new upper bracket. I think this swap should be the same for trucks up to 95 :think:, or the ones that have the alternator on the drivers side. Thanks

Matt
 

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#2 ·
Do you happened to remember the length for that metal strap?

I installed one in mine but I am using a series of nuts and a long bolt on the angled strap.
I am thinking of making that flat strap before it breaks.

Thanks.
 
#3 ·
I cut the strap to the same length as the original was. I didn't even measure it, I just layed the original bracket next to my 1" strap, and made a mark with a piece of chalk, then cut it. Likewise with the holes I drilled. I layed the OE strap on top of my new piece, and using chalk, I marked where the holes needed to be drilled. The strap I used is 3/16" thick, where the OE was only 1/8". I buy my steel from my local steel supply, but this was just some leftovers I had in the shop. You can buy 1" strap in 36" or 48" lengths at the Home Depot, or Tractor Supply.

Matt
 
#5 ·
Anyone know if you can run twin cs144? I run twin cs130 that work well at higher rpms but at idle I could use more power especially when they heat up.
 
#7 · (Edited)
If you can run 2 of the CS130's, then you can certainly run 2 of the CS144's, as long as you have the clearance for a slightly larger alternators. It would require you to do some bracket work as well, like I did for mine. :thumb:
I'm curious, what are you doing with your truck that needs that much juice?:eek:

Just checked Oreilly's. None of the stores around here stock it. Did you have to order yours?
Yes, I ordered it Freddy. With Oriellys, the part is always in by the next morning, but in my case it came from another store about 20 miles away, so I got it same day. :clap:

Matt
 
#9 ·
Your lucky to have your warehouse that close. Down here the warehouse is in Houston which is 350 miles north of me. I'm sure they'll have it at the warehouse. If you click the compatibility chart in that link I posted, you can see this alternator was used on alot of GM applications.
My truck is a 93, so it never had the vacuum system, and I'm running an HX turbo on it. On mine, I had to go up 2 belt sizes, from a 6k1005 to a 6k1015, so whatever belt you have now, try going up 2 sizes. Worst case, you have to exchange it for a different one. I bought 2, and returned the one I didn't use. :thumb:

Matt
 
#10 · (Edited)
Did it already come with a 2-5/8" pulley as well? I wouldn't mind upgrading mine someday. It doesn't have a draw but it seems to have a problem holding 14V at idle sometimes. You can definitely tell when I turn on lights and other accessories, my truck will idle down a bit and i'm not sure that's right. And you are right, your exact swap will work for 92-95 6.5s and even 88-93 6.2 trucks in the GMT-400 style.
 
#12 ·
Did it already come with a 2-5/8" pulley as well? I wouldn't mind upgrading mine someday. It doesn't have a draw but it seems to have a problem holding 14V at idle sometimes. You can definitely tell when I turn on lights and other accessories, my truck will idle down a bit and i'm not sure that's right.
No, I had to swap my 2 5/8 pulley onto it. I know what your talking about. Before I swapped to the 144 my headlights would dim when I came to a stop, and had my a/c on. Not any more, it holds a constant 14v at idle, and the lights stay bright.:bounce:

Matt
 
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#13 ·
Oh and also I gotta say I really appreciate that you take the time to take photos and document everything you do so well, that's a big help for the community because if other members are like me, I like to see things visually because it can help us if we do it on our own.

Thanks:thumb:
 
#15 ·
Thanks, I appreciate that. Like you, I grasp things much better if I can look at them, and I know there are others like us. They say a picture is worth 1000 words, and since I don't type, I peck, this makes things much easier for me. :HiHi:

Matt
 
#17 ·
Thanks Freddy! :thumb:

Matt
 
#18 ·
Its cool that the little plug is the same in this case. I put a 144 on my 96 and had to change the little plug. The original in that case was one of the internal fan series so maybe that is why the plug was different.
 
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#19 ·
I thought it was nice, as well.

Matt
 
#20 ·
Just thought I'd give a quick update. While I could have made something myself, Leroy Diesel sells a rear alternator brace just for these conversions, so I bought one. It fits, and looks like it came straight from GM. Thanks Leroy.:thumb:
It came painted red, but it wasn't the same shade of red my engine is, so I painted it black. Here are a couple pics.

Matt
 

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#26 ·
I had a local alternator/starter rebuild shop up my CS130 from the 100/105amp. If I recall, it should be about 150 amp. I have yet to install mine.... My local shop said that 150 amp is the max...I'm surprised someone said it could go to 160 amp....

Might I ask who on Ebay you got it from??? If you don't want to post, you can message me.... Oh, what are you planning to do w/ your old CS130?
 
#27 ·
#28 · (Edited)
#29 · (Edited)
Wow, that is CHEAP (price).

Strange..... I talked to the local re-builders and they told me that 140-150amp was the MAX. They have been in business a LONG time and said 200amp was not possible w/ CS130.... :confuzeld

The cost of a "new" CS130 100/105am was about $100-125 locally. Rebuilding the CS130 to the 140-150 amp cost just a bit more then new stock CS130.

Well, at least I know now......if my stock CS130 and the uprated ever die, I'll just swap it out w/ what you showed here. (I tend to use my truck to boost start farm tractors and semi trucks during harvest.....)

edit-

Oh, when you upgraded your alternator to battery wire/cable, you said you used a 4 gauge. Did you use any type of fuse protection? My re-builder gave me to lengths of 10 gauge fusible wire and told me to put them parallel.
 
#31 ·
As far as the max output anything is possible. With sensitive enough equipment you could likely get over 1000 amps pretty easily. How long can you actually pull that 'new improved' rating? That is the question. I suspect the reason the factory ones stopped where they did is that was where they felt the line was as far as reliability. I think there are a few of the 'improved' models that they actually change out core materials and windings but that is pretty expensive. I think many of them they just mess with the regulator circuit and hope that no one actually fully loads them for any extended period of time.

I just helped a neighbor put a stock alternator back on his honda and repair a bunch of the wiring that melted before and after the fire. The alternator that burnt up was supposedly something like 250 amp. I could easy wrap both hands around it and the output stud was like a #10. He did have some fancy gold cables that maybe were a decent gauge but the connectors were all crap and failing. There was some sort of an inline fuse thing that melted into a bunch of metal cold air intake plumbing he had. The stock alternator I think was like 90 amps and other than cosmetics and stickers didn't look any different than the 250 amp one I took off. Told him the deal was if I ever heard that stereo between 10 pm and 8 am again I am going to repo all my wiring.
 
#32 ·
Very well said, especially the part about the stereo from 10pm to 8am. :hehe:

I believe your right on the upgraded alternators. I believe you could get away with turning up their peak output some, but not a bunch, and expect a decent life span.
Speaking of upgraded alternators, I really like this 200 amp CS144, but its pricey. 200 Amp Heavy Duty Dual Rectifier CS144 Type High Output Alternator | eBay

Matt
 
#35 ·
Your to fast for me Aaron! :HiHi: As already stated, yes it will work.:thumb:

Matt
 
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#36 ·
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#38 ·
We have an 03 Silverado 2500 HD and have never replaced the alternator. Is there anyway to test it other than watching the volts and making sure it is 14 or above? We have about 110,000 on it and it is a Duramax Diesel.
This is the 6.5L Diesel section :HiHi:

But to answer your question, You can take it off and have it tested but there's no sense in doing so if it's still charging and not causing you problems. Don't fix what isn't broken. 110K is nothing.
 
#40 ·
Do you have a part number or link to the bracket Leroy sells?? I can't find it anywhere on their website.
 
#43 · (Edited)
Looking to upgrade my 94 6.5 Alt. Matt the link to that Ultima alternator is dead amd 8219-5B returns no results on their site. Anyone else have a part number or recommend any other brands acDelco etc.
 
#45 ·
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#48 ·
You can also use the high amp alternator from 2003 Duramax (AD244).
It is slightly easier to adapt to the 94-95 bracket with minor modification and keeping the rear bracket.
 
#49 ·
Any pics?

First time I have heard of this...LOL. I just went with a 96 year.... it is what everyone was saying. So far so good.... but the rear bracket had to removed.