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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 11-13-2014, 03:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
JCDiesel
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I would just put a new one in. Easy peesy right behind the dipstick. ive replaced a many of heaters. Turn the screw out about 10 turns so you dont loose the back in the block. Put a small vise grip on the edge where the plug goes in. Get a pry bar against the vise grip and pry it out. It will come easier if you impact the pry bar to the vice grip quickly and you wont get a bath. Either that or get a large tinfoil catering tray, fill it with charcoal and put it under the motor a couple hours before you need to start it I plug my trucks in below 35 degrees because starting in the cold taxes your batteries glows and starter.

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Last edited by JCDiesel; 11-13-2014 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
wallyworld
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Originally Posted by JMJNet View Post
Make sure the electrical outlet, that the cord goes into, is also working???
I'm an Electrician by trade. But if you know anything about the trades an electricians house is apt to have outlets not working I'm going to split the cord and put an amprobe on it to see if its drawing any current.

I figured the heater itself was burned out, haven't looked very hard at it so didn't know the cord was replaceable

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Last edited by wallyworld; 11-13-2014 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
57diesel
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I think there are only like 2 common cord styles that fit 90% of the heaters ever made so getting a replacement should not be that difficult if its not repairable.

IF its not the cord end itself that has been damaged then next likely places are where it snakes around the radiator. That area is common for when people forget to unplug it and back away. Those are the places I usually find an issue.

Typical frost plug heaters are in the 400-600 watt range so thats 3-5 amps at 120v. I know I can have 2 cars plugged into a 15 amp circuit with some lights and other minor loads with no problem.
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I plug my stuff in starting at about +10F. I have em on a timer set to come on about 2 hours before I plan on starting. Until it gets into the -10F range or below that seems to be plenty of time. If its going to be that cold I will sometimes set em for 4 hours. I have never left em going all night.

After I get em plugged in I will usually manually hit the timer to on just to make sure I don't have an issue. Couple times the plug must have been wet or iced so the GFCI plug tripped when it came on. Since I have been checking them I have not had that issue. If I do have the issue I run out there with the propane torch and melt all the ice off and moisture off.

Been reading about some really nice but not too crazy priced marine sockets that have a nice cap on them and secure nicely. Just have not had the time. That is also what the dealer installed one is like from VW (for every model but mine).
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Old 11-13-2014, 08:36 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Easiest way to confirm if a block heater is working or not is your ears - listen for the "brrrzap" at the plug itself when you plug it in (the current draw through the plug will cause a small arc which you can sometimes hear), and then 5-10 minutes later you can soletimes hear the sizzle (think "electric kettle heating up") noise from the block heater element itself if it's quiet outside.
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Old 11-14-2014, 06:29 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by PrivatePilot View Post
Easiest way to confirm if a block heater is working or not is your ears - listen for the "brrrzap" at the plug itself when you plug it in (the current draw through the plug will cause a small arc which you can sometimes hear), and then 5-10 minutes later you can soletimes hear the sizzle (think "electric kettle heating up") noise from the block heater element itself if it's quiet outside.
I thought that too, so when I didn't hear that I figured it was burned up.
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Lubrication specialists cooler and lines
Kennedy OPS kit
Alligator 4" exhaust pending

Almost time for an 06 to 08 Teds Motor
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New glow plugs.
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:13 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Well, I wouldn't totally rely 100% on it, but they're a 90% starting point in my mind. If it still seems dead then I'd proceed to the testing methods others have mentioned before just discounting it for dead and replacing/bypassing it however.
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:36 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Not sure if you can test for continuity on the heater? As electrician, you probably own an continuity tester (amprobe).
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:48 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMJNet View Post
Not sure if you can test for continuity on the heater? As electrician, you probably own an continuity tester (amprobe).
I went under truck removed the cord from heater then put it back. Plugged it in and heard something. Checked continuity and its at 25 ohms which means that its not an open circuit. I'm going to plug it in tomorrow for awhile to see what happens, I didn't have time this morning to do much. Followed the cord, it still has the cap to cover the plug, goes around radiator and into a piece of corrugated plastic on top of frame rail, then jumps over to block. Seems ok. need to check connection at block to see if its corroded or not?
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1995 3500 hd Automatic 30 ft versalift bucket
PMD relocation kit
Lubrication specialists cooler and lines
Kennedy OPS kit
Alligator 4" exhaust pending

Almost time for an 06 to 08 Teds Motor
Teds motor installed, new Motor mounts, new injectors
New glow plugs.
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Old 11-14-2014, 01:09 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Set multimeter to "ohms", touch one probe to each of the prongs on the block heater and/or power cord, read the resistance. Ideal resistance is about 20 to 30 ohms, but if "0" or infinite resistance indicates the block heater is not functional..

just wanted to add. I can hear my block heater sizzling (good indication its working) when everythings quiet.


Last edited by HeavyChevy95; 11-14-2014 at 01:17 PM.
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