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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum


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Old 07-24-2014, 04:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
turbovanman
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As said above, its in the same place as every other 6.2/6.5. The back of the motor houses the intake manifold and turbo.

It would be easier to remove the upper intake manifold to access the PMD wiring.

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Last edited by turbovanman; 07-24-2014 at 04:28 PM.
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
HeavyChevy95
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Not sure if this is what your after but bidding ends in 24. 0 bids, wait to the last minute, then bid. Likely shipped to you for $50.00

Cant imagine there being a huge different in model years, but remember I dont know jack 'bout vans..

1999 GMC SAVANA CHEVY EXPRESS G VAN FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS SHOP 1500 2500 3500

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Old 07-25-2014, 01:01 AM   #13 (permalink)
mikelea1
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Savanna 3500 Cube Van PMD

Unfortunately the PMD is up inside the engine well between the Injector Pump and the exhaust manifold. The GM engineer who designed the PMD location should be strung up with dental floss by his man parts! That's why it is recommended you move the PMD to the front passenger inside fender or elsewhere! They overheat in the engine well/ exhaust manifold are and fry themselves...

Quote:
Originally Posted by pv31 View Post
Hi

I have a savanna 3500 cube van.

I need some help locating the PMD. I took off the engine cover, but can't locate the IP. I've attached a pic so you can point it out for me.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Also, if someone has a service manual or knows where I can get one, please let me know.

Thanks.

its a 2001 gmc savanna 3500 cube van (diesel)
6.5 turbo engine

Last edited by mikelea1; 07-25-2014 at 01:04 AM. Reason: Misspellings
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Old 07-25-2014, 06:37 AM   #14 (permalink)
90GMC62L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikelea1 View Post
Unfortunately the PMD is up inside the engine well between the Injector Pump and the exhaust manifold. The GM engineer who designed the PMD location should be strung up with dental floss by his man parts! That's why it is recommended you move the PMD to the front passenger inside fender or elsewhere! They overheat in the engine well/ exhaust manifold are and fry themselves...
The exhaust manifold is nowhere near the PMD....
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Old 07-25-2014, 06:46 AM   #15 (permalink)
Transporter2112
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Ok, I have a 97 Express, some motor. The plug CAN be accessed to install a remote PMD without having to remove everything, but it's really not hard to do it right. Start by removing the manifold crossover pipe. It's the big aluminum pipe that goes across the engine just above the turbo. It's held down by 6 10mm bolts. The gaskets are rubber O rings on the turbo and big rubber gaskets on each of the manifolds so they're re-usable. Then remove the big black plastic pipe that comes into the turbo from the air cleaner in the front. In the vans, start by removing the air cleaner assembly at the front of the grill, then the rubber flex hose, then the black pipe to the turbo. There is a large bolt that holds that pipe in that you can access from inside the truck, work that pipe out then you will see the PMD directly below that black pipe. You actually have pretty decent access once you get all the plumbing out of the way. Reassembly is in reverse order, no special tools or rebuild kits needed. It took me a while to figure all this out, but don't sweat it. You're maybe 5 minutes away from the PMD.
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Old 07-25-2014, 06:49 AM   #16 (permalink)
90GMC62L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Transporter2112 View Post
Ok, I have a 97 Express, some motor. The plug CAN be accessed to install a remote PMD without having to remove everything, but it's really not hard to do it right. Start by removing the manifold crossover pipe. It's the big aluminum pipe that goes across the engine just above the turbo. It's held down by 6 10mm bolts. The gaskets are rubber O rings on the turbo and big rubber gaskets on each of the manifolds so they're re-usable. Then remove the big black plastic pipe that comes into the turbo from the air cleaner in the front. In the vans, start by removing the air cleaner assembly at the front of the grill, then the rubber flex hose, then the black pipe to the turbo. There is a large bolt that holds that pipe in that you can access from inside the truck, work that pipe out then you will see the PMD directly below that black pipe. You actually have pretty decent access once you get all the plumbing out of the way. Reassembly is in reverse order, no special tools or rebuild kits needed. It took me a while to figure all this out, but don't sweat it. You're maybe 5 minutes away from the PMD.

Good info, this should get ya going OP.
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1983 Silverado K10 RC/LB 305 700R4 119K miles:
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2002 Chevy 2500HD Duramax/ZF6 CC/SB
Link to my build thread ----> https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-...liability.html
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:16 AM   #17 (permalink)
pv31
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ok thanks for all the input

Transporter2112 explanation helped the most

this should get me started and if I need any more help, I'll let you guys know
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:39 AM   #18 (permalink)
quadstar87
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It actually looks easier than a truck since the intake is o-ringed
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:48 AM   #19 (permalink)
mikelea1
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On a Chevy Van: The problem you will run into is there is not enough distance to remove the PMD screws between the PMD and the manifold. The screws exceed the space between the two! I bought another PMD (x2), an extension cord and heat-sink to mount the PMD on the inside of the passenger-side fender. One thing I will mention. After replacing four Injector Pumps (IP) on a 2000 Chevy 3500 Express and 5 PMD's, I discovered the problem was actually caused by the fuel tank lining sloughing off and blocking the lift well filters inside the tank (there are three!!) and kicking up particles which microscopically passed the fuel filter and was destroying the Injector Pumps. After discovering the problem and dropping the tank for the THIRD time, I cut an access panel in the floor & padding of the van so I would never have to drop the tank again. Don't know your specific problem, but if it is poor acceleration, "fish-biting", dying, or overall poor performance, check the lift pump inside the tank for metallic looking paint particles blocking it up!!! IT COST ME THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS until I figured it out myself. So far I have not had a problem since. I just check the tank filter every six months for blockage..... Goood Luck!!

Last edited by mikelea1; 07-25-2014 at 11:52 AM. Reason: Text clarification
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Old 07-25-2014, 04:52 PM   #20 (permalink)
savvy65
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I have one of these vans. It looks like you found a way to find it - those three lines under seen through the intake cross-over is the back of the injection pump. It looks like to me from your pic your turbo seals are blown or leaking. The van gets hot in that small engine compartment area. This is hard on the oil - and the engine heat soaks - the intake air temperature.

If the inside of the crossover is as oily as the outside or more - you have a blown or leaking seal likely on the turbo - in the pic it can be seen leaking out and dripping down the turbo compressor side outlet.

I make intercooler kits with water injection provisions built in for these because the turbo is at the rear - and the more it works for boost - the hotter it gets to cause heat soak across it back into the air intake. Unless you have an air intake temperature gauge - or are using a program on an Android phone across Bluetooth like "dashcommand" or using an ultragauge, you cannot see how radically the air intake temperatures swing.

My air intake cold in the morning (a southern California July morning) once started at 80 F and would go to around 116 F to 125 F and hold there as long at the vehicle is moving. Mid-day I could never get it much below 140 F. So long as it stays UNDER 125 F it runs fine. If you park say to go into store - the engine heat soak will cover the whole engine - when you start it back up the air intake will be the engine temperature approximately - usually 160 F. You cannot cool this back down by driving.

If you push for hard acceleration - it will not cool down the intake air, and combustion temps will be too hot for good performance. Most all research shows a diesel likes no more than 60 C or 140 F for air intake temps.

Over 125 F mine would run like crap and the turbo will not kick in. More boost is MORE heat to the intake air temperature. ULSD does not help - even though it burns cooler - it just means less power.

I now fumigate mine with true Hydrogen made on the fly through a vacuum based regulator-mixer and get really high fuel mileage - really low EGT's and cleaner and cooler oil. Since hydrogen goes out as cooler exhaust most of my problems went away fumigating with it. AND NO - I am not talking about "HHO" - I am talking about true pure hydrogen.

For that van you should consider putting on an EGT gauge, an oil temperature gauge, and a boost gauge - and having your turbo rebuilt or repaired - because oil leaking out of the intake like your pic shows means you are likely sucking and /or blowing oil past the turbo seals which is throwing your A/F injection ratio screwy.

Just a thought - that what you think are PMD problems may not "totally" be the only thing.

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