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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 08-16-2014, 08:32 AM   #51 (permalink)
SUPRAPULLER
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To seal from what? There should be an o ring under the lock ring that seals the tank. Does it protect it from the elements? Thx FY

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New ride, 2003 Silverado 2500hd 8.1l, 16x8 Moto Metal wheels with 28575r16, Red Head steering box, AM tow mirrors with more to come!

94 C2500 Suburban, vin F, 06' 10.5 AAM axle swap w/4.10's & disc brakes, PMD in bumper, Batt Ter mod SS, K47/snorkel delete, HX40/ATA CAC , 2.5" x-over, 4" Diamond Eye, AC delco OPS & OPS mod, FTB (drilled out IP fitting), FRC10 w/dual filters, tank sock delete, LS oil cooler lines, FD and pulley 11/14, 2k year waterpump, 2k fan, modded Hayden fan clutch, Teds injectors, Bosch GP,GS Trans/EGT/Boost gauges, TCC lock mod, aux trans cooler, Buddy's 6 gun tune, 2" lift w/285/75/16 on stock dmax wheels, 240k and counting. GONE BUT DEARLY MISSED!
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Old 08-16-2014, 12:09 PM   #52 (permalink)
VanBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovoltage View Post
Yep I agree. If the OPS is no good and can't deliver the necessary level of current\voltage to the LP, this is a sure way to trash an LP. Undercurrent & under voltage is the #1 way motor devices are damaged. The 94\95 GM truck are in a bad situation as the OPS directly drives the LP. Bad OPS = LP damage\death.
And that is why on the 94/95 models that use only the OPS for LP power, the relay mod is important.

The truck in my signature below had issues also. Being a former govt vehicle, I got the maintenance records.....it was also in its stock configuration for dang near 19 years of it's life. PMD was in stock location (but has had history of IPs and PMDs being replaced). The OPS and LP had been replaced for some time too.

Classic symptoms were the PMD at issue, so it was relocated w/ a new one. Truck ran find for some time (winter), but as soon as it warmed up, it started acting up. Had a spare PMD, changed it, kept doing the same issue. I started fearing it might be the IP....

I replaced the LP, which helped my stalling, hiccups. Eventually, I replaced the OPS with a BorgWarner/Standard unit. BUT, I also did the OPS relay modification (OPS only activates the added relay which takes the load of the LP). Aside from that, I relocated my OPS with an extension hose so replacement is under 10 min.

After that, its ran fine, no stalling, no hiccups. Even put the first "original" replacement PMD back on (it was the OPS issue). I had short trips, so it would stay cool. When on a long trip, it warmed up and we all know, issues w/ electricity happen when it gets warm.

It is true what they say on this forum....learn your vehicle, do proper diagnostics and the ideas will come....not (I love that smiley icon...lol). Once the basics are understood on them, it's easy......finding the problem is the hard part. Don't jump/guess....leads to spending money.




Quote:
Originally Posted by SUPRAPULLER View Post
To seal from what? There should be an o ring under the lock ring that seals the tank. Does it protect it from the elements? Thx FY
Yes, but if you look at the before/after shots, the lock ring area has low/high spots. Depending on your location, during winter, road salt/spray might get up in there and corrode making things hard to remove and or start rusting. The wax will keep things from piling up in that/those area.

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1999 Ford E-350 7.3L Power Stroke Club Wagon, 3.55
1990 Ford E-350 7.3L IDI Club Wagon, 3.54LS x2
1994 Chevrolet C2500 6.5L TD, 3.42
1981 VW Rabbit Pickup 1.6L N/A x2
1978 VW Rabbit 1.5L N/A

================================================== ==
140amp 1996 alt. May 2016 / HO Water pump, Fan Clutch (used OEM), Crank Pulley-Aug 2015 /Stanadyne PMD installed 6/13 replaced- reinstalled D-Tech ,Soot Trap Delete Jan 18, 2014 / Heath TurboMaster Dec 22, 2013 / New OPS (BWD), OPS Relay mod,
black Stanadyne PMD w/ #5-June 2013 / Dorman relocation kit, D-Tech PMD to bumper, #9 resistor- Jan 2013 / Carter Lift Pump, P74143 10-15psi, 32gph- Dec 2012 / Brought home Dec 17, 2012

Other then that, the Chevy is STOCK.


Last edited by VanBoy; 08-16-2014 at 12:11 PM.
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Old 08-17-2014, 01:10 AM   #53 (permalink)
VanBoy
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Forgot to add, I added an emergency bypass in the electrical system when I added the relay mod to the OPS. I put a fuse holder connecting the hot supply to the relay to the relay's "send" wire to the LP. Why, if the relay fails or OPS fails, I can put a 25amp circuit breaker in there and "hot wire" the LP to feed fuel to the system. I keep the CB in the glove box. If you get the right kind of blade fuse holder, you can use a wire with 1/4" spade ends (this one is a bit tight).....just an idea.

The non GM OPS is still working. Oil pressure is questionable at times, but I know it works. Since I have my OPS on the end of a hose, when it is cold, the pressure bleeds off slower....so when I shut it off, I hear the lift pump running for a bit after shut off. Longest I have heard is 30-40 seconds when in winter/cold.

I carry a spare OPS, 2 PMD's on heat sinks, and tools to change the OPS quick. I also have a spare relay to replace the added OPS relay in a small parts bag. And a 1 gallon jug of water, in case the IP ever gets to be issue. Doubles in case I need washer fluid and/or rad fluid too.

I've only had to have this truck towed once, and it was because of an alternator bearing that seized up and broke the serpentine belt....
__________________
1999 Ford E-350 7.3L Power Stroke Club Wagon, 3.55
1990 Ford E-350 7.3L IDI Club Wagon, 3.54LS x2
1994 Chevrolet C2500 6.5L TD, 3.42
1981 VW Rabbit Pickup 1.6L N/A x2
1978 VW Rabbit 1.5L N/A

================================================== ==
140amp 1996 alt. May 2016 / HO Water pump, Fan Clutch (used OEM), Crank Pulley-Aug 2015 /Stanadyne PMD installed 6/13 replaced- reinstalled D-Tech ,Soot Trap Delete Jan 18, 2014 / Heath TurboMaster Dec 22, 2013 / New OPS (BWD), OPS Relay mod,
black Stanadyne PMD w/ #5-June 2013 / Dorman relocation kit, D-Tech PMD to bumper, #9 resistor- Jan 2013 / Carter Lift Pump, P74143 10-15psi, 32gph- Dec 2012 / Brought home Dec 17, 2012

Other then that, the Chevy is STOCK.

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Old 08-17-2014, 09:03 PM   #54 (permalink)
lovoltage
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Wax on the fuel tank

Quote:
Originally Posted by SUPRAPULLER View Post
To seal from what? There should be an o ring under the lock ring that seals the tank. Does it protect it from the elements? Thx FY
Yep there was an o-ring installed for the sending unit. The purpose of the wax is to keep water off the sending unit area and to keep water out of the fuel tank.

Believe it or not, water can enter a sealed fuel tank from on top of the sending unit. How this works is, the fuel sending unit area on top of the tank can hold some water. Pressure & temp difference between the inside of the tank and the outside can create a vacuum and over long periods of time, move small amounts of water past the seal. Any corrosion in this area as the tank\sending unit ages can also assist this action.

We all know how well diesel fuel and water get along. We also know how much injector pumps and injectors love water running through them too. Since it's rainy & wet here in Florida, have always sealed fuel tanks with wax in addition to any o-rings or gaskets as added insurance. Wax also works great for the under body and inside of hard to reach areas like the frame. Wax is a great low-cost, natural water repellant and corrosion inhibitor.

Last edited by lovoltage; 08-17-2014 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 09-08-2014, 10:12 AM   #55 (permalink)
HeavyChevy95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovoltage View Post
Yep there was an o-ring installed for the sending unit. The purpose of the wax is to keep water off the sending unit area and to keep water out of the fuel tank.

Believe it or not, water can enter a sealed fuel tank from on top of the sending unit. How this works is, the fuel sending unit area on top of the tank can hold some water. Pressure & temp difference between the inside of the tank and the outside can create a vacuum and over long periods of time, move small amounts of water past the seal. Any corrosion in this area as the tank\sending unit ages can also assist this action.

We all know how well diesel fuel and water get along. We also know how much injector pumps and injectors love water running through them too. Since it's rainy & wet here in Florida, have always sealed fuel tanks with wax in addition to any o-rings or gaskets as added insurance. Wax also works great for the under body and inside of hard to reach areas like the frame. Wax is a great low-cost, natural water repellant and corrosion inhibitor.
Exactly, prevents water and other crap (road salts) from gathering and/or possibly pooling in the sender slight depression. Excellent tutorial btw.
Curious though, when you inspected the new sender. Did you see a "bypass" valve anywhere? Its my understanding diesel senders have a by-pass that combats fuel gelling during cold start ups.. I cant see it in your pics, nothing on the supply pipe that I can see that might be the bypass valve. however could it be in the end of the strainer (metal end)?
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:53 PM   #56 (permalink)
lovoltage
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Reply Fuel Sock Bypass

Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyChevy95 View Post
Exactly, prevents water and other crap (road salts) from gathering and/or possibly pooling in the sender slight depression. Excellent tutorial btw.
Curious though, when you inspected the new sender. Did you see a "bypass" valve anywhere? Its my understanding diesel senders have a by-pass that combats fuel gelling during cold start ups.. I cant see it in your pics, nothing on the supply pipe that I can see that might be the bypass valve. however could it be in the end of the strainer (metal end)?
Thanks Heavy for reading about my Burb.

When I changed out the fuel sending unit, it was replaced with a Dorman from Rock (pn:692097). The Dorman came with a sock strainer that looked like something found in a gasoline setup. Replaced it with a new Delco sock (pn:TS1012 or 25055272) until I can upgrade to an inline, pre-lift pump filter.

The Dorman sock did not have a bypass, but the Delco did, like you said, on the metal end of the strainer. It's operation is pretty simple, there is a plastic flap inside that opens by suction when the sock mesh is plugged, but not far.

On the old and new fuel sending units, I did not see any openings anywhere on the supply line (in tank) that would allow fuel to bypass the sock. I just checked the older sender again to be sure.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Fuel Strainer Bypass.jpg (112.4 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg Fuel Sending 1.JPG (123.6 KB, 34 views)
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Old 10-23-2014, 10:22 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Been Awhile... Good news and bad news

Its been awhile since I had a chance to post, so let me summarize what been happening here.

Bad news:
- Multiple problems with my wife's car
- Lost my job after over 4 yrs with the company
- Work on the truck stopped for a while to regroup and start looking for a new job

Good news:
- Fixed all the problems on the wife's car
- Won the battle for unemployment insurance
- No more headaches and stupid amounts of stress from the insanity that was my former employer - Will miss my work and lots of folks from work though
- Future is wide open, more time with family and more time to work on the truck
- Pealing through the to-do list at the house
- Catching up with friends I been too busy to see
- Possible future opportunity on working with a friend on his new business
- Learned more troubleshooting fuel issues with the Burb
- Fixed fuel related problems on the Burb

Currently:
- Looking for work and had a few interviews but no jobs yet
- May go back to driving big trucks
- May go back into business for myself
- Looking at work opportunities in the Bakken

Will put together some posts on what I learned about troubleshooting no-code stumbling\fish-biting issues and the repairs made.
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Old 10-24-2014, 01:24 AM   #58 (permalink)
Freddyack
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Good luck with job search!
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Old 10-30-2014, 07:29 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Freddyack View Post
Good luck with job search!
Thanks!
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Old 10-30-2014, 07:50 PM   #60 (permalink)
lovoltage
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What to do?

Ok, the Burb work continues, picking up where I left off.

Done:
- Fuel system issues fixed
+ Fixed the leaky FFM seal - Leroy Diesel
+ Replaced the FFM fuel strainer filter - Leroy Diesel
+ Lift pump relay modification completed with super quality harness & relay from Leroy Diesel
- Electrical system issues
+ Replaced 5+ yr old batteries as they have bad cells and were on the way out
+ Replace old (questionable) fuel relay in the under-hood electrical station

Need to do:

- Coolant replace for winter - Currently running water and water wetter
- FFM fuel heater has an exposed wire - need to find a better fix or a replacement
- Repair or replace exhaust pipe where cracked
- Transmission service with filter
- Power steering service
- Upgrade fuel filtration before the lift pump with a screw-on filter, cut-off valve and delete the in-tank sock
- GMTDScan
- Build USB to ALDL cable project from old idea last year


Last edited by lovoltage; 10-30-2014 at 08:01 PM.
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