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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 07-30-2014, 05:11 PM   #31 (permalink)
JMJNet
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It is worth checking out but if the truck is a Florida truck, the fuel line rust should be minimized.

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1995 GMC Suburban:
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:01 PM   #32 (permalink)
Freddyack
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Most dont let fuel level get below 1/4 tank.

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Old 08-01-2014, 06:10 PM   #33 (permalink)
lovoltage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quadstar87 View Post
My fuel sending unit was introducing air due to rusty output lines, but no fuel was leaking out.

Dropping the tank and replacing the whole unit was the way to go for me. I used SSDiesel's heavier metal sock in place of the plastic one that came with the new unit.

Thanks for the great posts!
Thanks for reading and replying.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JMJNet View Post
It is worth checking out but if the truck is a Florida truck, the fuel line rust should be minimized.
Yep, everything I could find so far tells me this is a Florida truck. It was delivered to a Chevy dealer in Daytona stayed in the area. There are a couple of rust spots on the body but the frame, under body and other areas are in great shape.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddyack View Post
Most dont let fuel level get below 1/4 tank.
Yep, we know people that do this to, however to keep the weight\fuel consumption down, running with a 1/2 tank of fuel is ideal when in town. Also when out of town, we want to get the full range out of a tank and not worry about being stranded if the tank gets low.

Last edited by lovoltage; 08-01-2014 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:17 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Dropping the fuel tank on a 90's Suburban

Ok, dropped the fuel tank and here is how it was done. Tips and reminders below

Tools
- 15mm socket & ratchet
- Flat-head screw driver
- Open end metric wrenches
- Pliers
- Thread-penetrating oil (WD40, Blaster, etc..)
- Bucket
- Fuel cans
- Hydraulic jack with a piece of plywood to support the tank
- Camera phone
- Notepad and pen

Procedure for dropping the fuel tank
Warning: A gallon of no. 2 diesel weighs approximately 7 lbs, so a full tank of fuel at 42 gal is almost 300 lbs + the weight of the fuel tank. You can be pinned, crushed or seriously injured if the fuel tank falls on you. Put something between you and the fuel tank
Tip: If possible, run or drain as much fuel a possible before starting to reduce the weight of the tank before starting work
Tip: Take pictures before starting the work
1. Open the fuel cap to release pressure\vacuum in the tank
2. Disconnect the fuel sending unit electrical plug
3. Disconnect the fuel-filler tube and vent hose clamps from the filler port
4. Raise hydraulic jack & plywood to support the fuel tank
5. Using the 15mm socket, loosen the (2) bolts holding the fuel tank up
Tip: Note the gap between fuel tank strap and the frame before removing the tank for reference during reinstallation. The bolts will NOT be flush with the frame.
Tip: The fuel tank will most likely be stuck within the frame. This is normal as the pads age and fuse to the frame. If stuck the tank can be broken free by applying body weight to the tank. Grab at the front corners of the tank and do a pull-up, the straps will catch the tank. For stubborn tanks try this
6. Remove each bolt and strap one at a time while the jack supports the fuel tank
7. Lower the fuel tank some and disconnect the fuel sending unit from the fuel lines
Tip: The lines may rusted, preventing disconnection of the fuel lines. Spay the penetrating oil and allow to sit for a few mins or maybe an hour. For suborn fuel lines, multiple applications of penetrating oil and more time will be needed.
8. The tank should be free at this point and can be lowered all the way to the ground

Time to drop tank 40 mins

Last edited by lovoltage; 08-01-2014 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:25 PM   #35 (permalink)
lovoltage
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Removing the fuel sending unit from the tank

Tank is out, here is how to open the tank and remove the fuel sending unit. Tips and reminders below

Tools
- Flathead screw driver
- Hammer
- Vacuum cleaner
- Camera phone

Procedure removing the sending unit


Tip: Using a vacuum cleaner, remove all the dirt and debris as you open the tank to prevent contaminating the fuel & tank
Reminder: The top of the fuel sending unit and tank may be sealed with wax. This is done to rise the area of the tank where the fuel sending unit enters, preventing water & other stuff from pooling or entering the tank should the o-ring fail. Also this seals any vapors in too.
Tip: Strongly suggest that the wax be replaced before reinstallation of the tank. A toilet bowl wax ring works great for this and can be purchased for about $2 and melted over the area before reinstallation
1. Using a flat head screwdriver, gently remove the wax from edge of the fuel sending unit
2. Vacuum all wax and dirt debris to prevent them from entering the fuel tank
3. Using the flat head screwdriver and hammer, find the edge of the ring and tap to rotate the ring counter clockwise until the locking ring is free of the tank retaining edge
4. Again vacuum all wax and dirt debris to prevent them from entering the fuel tank
5. Carefully lift the fuel sending unit out of the tank

Time to remove fuel sending unit 15 mins
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Suburban fuel tank - Sending Unit 1.jpg (67.2 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg Suburban fuel tank - Sending Unit 2.jpg (138.5 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg Suburban fuel tank - Sending Unit 3.jpg (151.4 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg Suburban fuel tank - Sending Unit 4.jpg (160.8 KB, 17 views)
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Old 08-02-2014, 01:05 PM   #36 (permalink)
lovoltage
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Fuel sock!

The fuel sending unit is out and time to examine the fuel sock.

Seems to me it's shot as it is plugged to the point of restricting airflow. Check out the side-by-side comparison of the old and new OEM fuel sock.

Let me know what you think...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Fuel sock strainer 2.jpg (42.6 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg Fuel sock strainer 1.jpg (48.0 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg Fuel sock strainer 3.jpg (51.1 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg Fuel sock strainer 4.jpg (101.3 KB, 18 views)
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Old 08-02-2014, 01:30 PM   #37 (permalink)
lovoltage
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Hmm... I wonder...

New fuel sending unit from Rock Auto is on the way.

Noticed a few things while dropping the fuel tank
- Lift pump looks new, did the PO have it replaced because of performance issues related to the plugged sock?
- Did the previous LP die because of a plugged sock?
- The fuel tank looks fairly new but the sending unit looks original, wonder if tank had an issue?
- Was the sock original?

Read somewhere that most mechanics and dealerships are not qualified to change the oil in our 6.2s and 6.5s because of their lack of knowledge on diesel systems. I wonder if the PO had a performance issue, the LP was changed but the issue wasn't completely fixed so the shop said "replace the IP" ($$$$!!!!) so the PO decided to sell the truck.

In the meantime, will work on other things. The inside of the fuel tank looks ok, but will drain it to be sure.
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Old 08-02-2014, 04:12 PM   #38 (permalink)
JMJNet
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Some people just eliminate that fuel tank sock and install a 30 micron pre-LP filter.

The reason is most sock are not for diesel, the gasser sock is not working well in the diesel fuel.
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1995 GMC Suburban:
PMD in Bumper
Leroy Diesel Flight System PMD
Leroy Diesel Oil Cooler Line
4" Warpspeed Exhaust
Kennedy Diesel LP/OPS Harness
Bosch Duraterm GP
Heath Turbo-Master
AD244 Alternator
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Old 08-02-2014, 04:43 PM   #39 (permalink)
lovoltage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMJNet View Post
Some people just eliminate that fuel tank sock and install a 30 micron pre-LP filter.

The reason is most sock are not for diesel, the gasser sock is not working well in the diesel fuel.
Yep, that's the direction I'm headed with a Wix filter and mount. One bad tank of fuel could easily strand us, and dropping the tank to change the fuel sock each time in NOT an option.
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:36 PM   #40 (permalink)
lovoltage
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Suburban Rear Door Check Strap Replace

Ok, while waiting for the new fuel sending unit, its time to replace a broken rear door check strap.

Got the part earlier from Rock Auto, procedure is pretty straight forward.

Parts
- Rear door check strap
Option 1 - Dorman (Help!) part no. 38449 $8.92 Rock Auto
Option 2 - GM OEM part no. 15048810 $35.82 Amazon
Reminder: Same part no. for left & right rear doors

Tools
- Small flathead screw driver or lock ring horseshoe washer pliers
- Open end metric wrenches
- Needle-nose pliers
- Hammer
- Nail set, punch awl or other pointed object that can be hammered
- Thread-penetrating oil (WD40, Blaster, etc..)
- Hydraulic jack with a piece of plywood to support the tank
- Camera phone

Procedure Replacing the Rear Door Check Strap
1. Open the door and push the check strap towards you, allowing it to come out of the door and be fully exposed for removal. Secure the door open if necessary (was working on an incline)
2. Locate the check strap area and remove the locking washer. The washer is a horseshoe type and can be removed using either the small flathead screwdriver or lock ring horseshoe washer pliers.
3. Using an awl, nail set or other pointed object, drive the hinge-pin upwards to release the strap and spring
4. Remove the spring, hinge-pin and check strap
5. Remove & transfer the plastic grommet & spring from the inside of the old check strap to the new check strap
6. Apply some penetrating oil to the hinge-pin
7. Install the new check strap and hinge-pin back into it's mount, using the hammer to tap the pin into place. The spring tension can be applied by holding it aside while installing the hinge-pin
8. Check to see that the spring operates as it did before
Tip: Use pictures of the check strap and spring taken before disassembly or the check strap in the other door for reference
9. Reinstall the lock washer at the bottom of the hinge-pin

Time to replace rear door check strap 5 mins

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Suburban rear door check strap 1.jpg (119.2 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg Suburban rear door check strap 2.jpg (55.3 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg Suburban rear door check strap 3.jpg (48.9 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg Suburban rear door check strap 4.jpg (154.5 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg Suburban rear door check strap 5.jpg (162.1 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg Suburban rear door check strap 6.jpg (129.7 KB, 15 views)
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