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Old 02-28-2014, 11:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
alex1234
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BRAKE SYSTEM AND ABS - BLEED

as normal safety maintenance
i don't know how many year must change the brake fluid, but i never change it ...... and after several years i think is better to change also because i note black deposit in brake fluid level box in upper MC, and now the fluid brake colour is dark, ...not clean

i have a GM TECH 1 SCANTOOL
but i don't know the exact and correct procedure for bleed all the brake system, ABS included

can someone tell me?!?

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GMC Yucon 1995 - now with HX40 16cm3
Z Industries ligh performance eprom with 7 resistor for 5521 PDM relocated, variable map sensors, gauges boost, pyrometer, oil temp engine and trans, EGR system erased,
Aquamist 2 stages water injection, race air cool system, 180 Amp CS-144 alternator
3.5" downpipe to 4" exaust, 3.73 gear, 33x12.5x16, dual termostat 180/190 and w/p, Evans Heavy Duty Coolant, Flex Fan for very fast spooling/economy, engine and transmission oil radiator relocated with dual electric fan under bump with custom air scoop
4L80E with HD transgo kit and low rpm torque converter.

BRAKE SYSTEM AND ABS - BLEED

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Old 02-28-2014, 01:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
Freddyack
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Brake fluid turns dark when there is moisture in it. Then it must be flushed out and replaced.

To bleed brakes at wheels, start at right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front.

Open the bleeder at each wheel while a helper presses on the brake pedal. When the pedal reaches the floor, tighten the bleeder then have helper release the pedal. Repeat until clean fluid comes out of the bleeder with no air bubbles. Make sure to check the reservoir frequently and top off with clean brake fluid.

8mm on back, 11mm on the front. Best to use an offset 8mm box wrench on the back. Soak the bleaders with PB Blaster or other penetrating fluid if they havent been used in a while. You do not want to break on off.

I have not ever bled my ABS. I found this about ABS from a search on this Forum:

"First is a abs without any codes and a tech II. The tech II is used to tell the abs to run. This moves the air out of the abs then you bleed at wheels till the air is out. Next get the air out best you can then find a gravel road and get an abs active stop when the abs tries to stop the lock up it will move the air through. Then you can bleed it at the wheels."

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Old 02-28-2014, 02:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
racer55
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If you have not introduced air into the system from a blown line or changed part I don't think the ABS needs to be activated in order to just flush fuid by bleeding.

When the ABS does need to be commanded to cycle is when a line has blown and a brake circuit has been shut off because of it.

At that time the tech 1 would be nice to have,but I have always used the gravel road method to get an ABS event to take place and cycle the module.

Might need a service manual or someone familiar with the scan tool to get that procedure worked out.
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Old 02-28-2014, 04:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
alex1234
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Thank You Very Much

...... will try to find somethink for ABS procedure
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GMC Yucon 1995 - now with HX40 16cm3
Z Industries ligh performance eprom with 7 resistor for 5521 PDM relocated, variable map sensors, gauges boost, pyrometer, oil temp engine and trans, EGR system erased,
Aquamist 2 stages water injection, race air cool system, 180 Amp CS-144 alternator
3.5" downpipe to 4" exaust, 3.73 gear, 33x12.5x16, dual termostat 180/190 and w/p, Evans Heavy Duty Coolant, Flex Fan for very fast spooling/economy, engine and transmission oil radiator relocated with dual electric fan under bump with custom air scoop
4L80E with HD transgo kit and low rpm torque converter.

BRAKE SYSTEM AND ABS - BLEED

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Old 02-28-2014, 04:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
pa32rt
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The "shade tree" version is - go to a slick area (mud, gravel, snow) somewhere the coefficient of friction is half or so of dry pavement. Apply threshold braking a few times to activate abs.

Double-check your corners to make sure no more air is in (bleed again) and you're good. Typically, no air will get into ABS unless you DRAIN the whole system AND activate ABS during that.

I change the fluid in the wife's Yukon ('04) and never had to bleed the ABS.
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Old 02-28-2014, 04:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
alex1234
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Thank You.........

for safety measure i wanted to change all the brake fluid, change only to the calipers it seems about half of work........but it is better than nothing







.
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GMC Yucon 1995 - now with HX40 16cm3
Z Industries ligh performance eprom with 7 resistor for 5521 PDM relocated, variable map sensors, gauges boost, pyrometer, oil temp engine and trans, EGR system erased,
Aquamist 2 stages water injection, race air cool system, 180 Amp CS-144 alternator
3.5" downpipe to 4" exaust, 3.73 gear, 33x12.5x16, dual termostat 180/190 and w/p, Evans Heavy Duty Coolant, Flex Fan for very fast spooling/economy, engine and transmission oil radiator relocated with dual electric fan under bump with custom air scoop
4L80E with HD transgo kit and low rpm torque converter.

BRAKE SYSTEM AND ABS - BLEED


Last edited by alex1234; 02-28-2014 at 04:44 PM.
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Old 03-01-2014, 07:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
alex1234
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find somethink in other forum.....not manual service shop, but...



BLEEDING PROCEDURES As per Alldata

Important: Never pump the brake pedal. Fluid cavitation may occur.

NOTICE: Gravity and vacuum bleeding are not recommended for this ABS system.

Two Person Procedure (Preferred)


1 Raise the vehicle to gain access to the system bleed screws. Install clear tubing on the bleed screws so that air bubbles in the fluid can be seen.
2 Begin by bleeding the system at the right rear wheel, then the left rear, right front and left front.
3 Open one bleed screw at a time 1/2 to 1 full turn.
4 Slowly depress the brake pedal until it reaches its full travel and hold until the bleed screw has been tightened. Release the brake pedal and wait 10-15
seconds for the master cylinder to return to the home position.

Important: Repeat steps 1 through 4 until approximately 1 pint of brake fluid has been bled from each wheel.
------ 1 US pint = 0.473176473 litre -------------
Clean brake fluid should be present at each of the wheel bleed screws.
Check the master cylinder fluid level every 4 to 6 strokes of the brake pedal to avoid running the system dry.



5 If any component is replaced which may have caused air to enter the BPMV, use a Scan Tool to run "Function Test"
four times while applying the brake pedal firmly.


Important: Set the park brake when running the "Function Test."



6 Rebleed all four wheels using steps 1 through 4 to remove the remaining air from the brake system.
7 Evaluate the brake pedal feel before attempting to drive the vehicle and rebleed as many times as necessary to obtain appropriate pedal feel.



seem nobody bleed the ABS for normal maintenance service
__________________
GMC Yucon 1995 - now with HX40 16cm3
Z Industries ligh performance eprom with 7 resistor for 5521 PDM relocated, variable map sensors, gauges boost, pyrometer, oil temp engine and trans, EGR system erased,
Aquamist 2 stages water injection, race air cool system, 180 Amp CS-144 alternator
3.5" downpipe to 4" exaust, 3.73 gear, 33x12.5x16, dual termostat 180/190 and w/p, Evans Heavy Duty Coolant, Flex Fan for very fast spooling/economy, engine and transmission oil radiator relocated with dual electric fan under bump with custom air scoop
4L80E with HD transgo kit and low rpm torque converter.

BRAKE SYSTEM AND ABS - BLEED

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Old 03-01-2014, 07:26 AM   #8 (permalink)
madkatt44
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great info!! have to flush my brakes as soon as it gets above zero C around here hehe
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Old 03-01-2014, 08:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
alex1234
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FIND THIS


As a rule, the brake circuits on most vehicles with anti-lock brakes can be bled in the usual manner — provided no air has gotten into the ABS modulator assembly. If the only components you replaced were downstream of the modulator (calipers, wheel cylinders, brake hoses or lines), chances are normal bleeding procedures will clear the lines of any unwanted air.

Brakes can be bled manually, with a power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder. It doesn’t make any difference which method you use as long as all the lines and components are flushed with enough fluid to remove any trapped air bubbles or air pockets.

The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car or truck, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan).

After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.

Always refer to the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended bleeding sequence as this may vary from one application to another depending on how the system is configured.

Look Before You Leap
But what if you replaced the master cylinder, a brake line or valve ahead of the ABS modulator? Or, what if you had to replace the modulator or high pressure accumulator? Now you have a more difficult job ahead of you.

Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system.

To better understand what may be required, let’s look at some bleeding procedures for some common General Motors ABS systems.

The Delco ABS-VI System
Introduced in 1991 as an option on Saturn, Buick Skylark, Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais and Pontiac Grand Am models, the Delco ABS-VI anti-lock brake system has been used on a wide range of General Motors front-wheel-drive vehicles, including Chevrolet Lumina and APV, Chevrolet Beretta, Corsica and Cavalier, Pontiac Grand Prix, Sunbird, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and Buick Regal.

The Delco VI system is a nonintegral ABS system with a conventional master brake cylinder and power booster. It has four wheel-speed sensors, but is a three-channel system. The front brakes are controlled separately, but the rear brakes share a common ABS circuit.

Attached to the master cylinder is the hydraulic modulator and motor pack assembly. The modulator is held by two banjo bolts at the master cylinder’s two upper outlet ports, and two transfer tubes at the two lower outlet ports. An important service point to note here is that the two lower transfer tubes and O-rings must be replaced if the master cylinder and modulator are disconnected from one another. This is necessary to prevent leaks that could cause the brakes to fail.

The modulator assembly has fluid chambers for all four brakes, two isolation solenoid valves, four check balls, a motor pack containing three bidirectional direct current motors with electromagnetic brakes (EMBs) and/or expansion spring brakes (ESBs), three ball screw assemblies, four pistons, a gear drive set and gear cover. The modulator motor pack, isolation solenoid valves, gear cover and individual gears are all serviceable parts and can be replaced separately.

The brakes on GM cars equipped with Delco ABS-VI may be bled using manual, vacuum or pressure bleeding. The usual bleeding sequence is right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

Bleeding a Delco ABS-VI System
Before you begin, however, you must make sure the rear pistons in the Delco ABS-VI modulator are in the home position so the check balls are unseated. If this is not done, you won’t be able to bleed the rear brake lines.

There are two ways that this can be accomplished:
With the Tech 1 or similar scan tool, select the F4 ABS Test mode, then select the F0 “manual control” option. You can now command the rear motor to drive the pistons to the home position.
Without a scan tool, open the front bleeder screw at the modulator. There are two, so be sure you open the front one. Then bleed the modulator. Close the screw, then bleed both front brakes starting with the right one first.

After checking for a firm pedal, drive the vehicle above three miles per hour. The controller will automatically reset the system by commanding the rear motor to run to the home position. Once this has occurred, you can stop the vehicle and bleed the rear brakes.
__________________
GMC Yucon 1995 - now with HX40 16cm3
Z Industries ligh performance eprom with 7 resistor for 5521 PDM relocated, variable map sensors, gauges boost, pyrometer, oil temp engine and trans, EGR system erased,
Aquamist 2 stages water injection, race air cool system, 180 Amp CS-144 alternator
3.5" downpipe to 4" exaust, 3.73 gear, 33x12.5x16, dual termostat 180/190 and w/p, Evans Heavy Duty Coolant, Flex Fan for very fast spooling/economy, engine and transmission oil radiator relocated with dual electric fan under bump with custom air scoop
4L80E with HD transgo kit and low rpm torque converter.

BRAKE SYSTEM AND ABS - BLEED

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Old 03-09-2014, 07:59 AM   #10 (permalink)
alex1234
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nobody knows the tread of brake line hoses???

....work in progress... think to change the brake line front hoses and single rear hose also with a stainless steel braided line.....but i don't know the bolt tread....and what i find online, shipping cost more than the brake hoses .....so need to do the line here

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GMC Yucon 1995 - now with HX40 16cm3
Z Industries ligh performance eprom with 7 resistor for 5521 PDM relocated, variable map sensors, gauges boost, pyrometer, oil temp engine and trans, EGR system erased,
Aquamist 2 stages water injection, race air cool system, 180 Amp CS-144 alternator
3.5" downpipe to 4" exaust, 3.73 gear, 33x12.5x16, dual termostat 180/190 and w/p, Evans Heavy Duty Coolant, Flex Fan for very fast spooling/economy, engine and transmission oil radiator relocated with dual electric fan under bump with custom air scoop
4L80E with HD transgo kit and low rpm torque converter.

BRAKE SYSTEM AND ABS - BLEED

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