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Old 08-12-2013, 08:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
prichmon
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Blower motor access and duct cleaning

The blower does not seem to be doing great. It blows OK but I would expect better from system.

Is there an easy way to access the blower and ducting to check for any blockage or issue?

Is a Suburban blower more powerful?

Thanks

Rich

__________________
1994 GMC Yukon 6.5td, 4l80e, HX40wii 369K miles, ssdiesel pmd on heat sink behind grill, custom exhaust, flow master crossover and DP, 14 bolt 3.42 No slip Powertrax rear. Buddy chip for the HX, walbro lift pump; aux tranny cooler, bosch glow plugs, aux 2 micron fuel filter, high cap. tranny pan, aux tranny filter, ARP Head studs, K47 air box, SS step bars, front end and brakes rebuilt, 3/4 ton calipers, Bosch injectors, Feed the Beast, Fuel psi gauge, EGT, trans temp, Boost gauges, new fuel tank and sock, and the addiction continues.....

SOLD...1994 c1500 ext cab sb 6.5td, 4l80e auto, 200K miles,

SOLD....1995 K1500 ext cab sb 6.5td, 4l80e auto, 286K miles,
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
dixiepc
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There is a thread or two over on GMT400 and FullSizeChevy on taking care of this. I pulled the blower motor and got some coil cleaner and sprayed it on the evaporator core through the hole where the blower was and then hosed it off. I then got a new blower and put it in, it was a whole $25.

Made a good bit of difference, definitely smells better. And no the Suburban fans are the same. They don't blow anywhere near as hard as some of the new cars do.

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1992 Suburban, J-code 6.2L from a 1986 CUCV, NV4500, BW4401
9" lift with straight axle conversion, HP Dana 44 with Loc-Right in front, Dana 60 with Detroit in rear, 4.10 gears, 4 wheel disc brakes
37 x 12.50R16.5LT HUMMV tires (rolls out at 35")
2.5" true duals with Flowmaster SUV 50's with a 2.5" H-pipe just in front of the mufflers bent over the driveshaft.
Averages 18+ mpg around town.

1997 K2500 Silverado 6.5 TD, 2000 GM enhanced block, Extend Cab, Short Box, with a NV4500. 4" Diamond Eye straight exhaust. Holset H1C turbo with 60mm compressor wheel and 14 cm exhaust housing. Converted to a 5149 DB2 set to 4911 specs by Tim at Accurate Diesel.
Averages 18+ mpg around town and 14+ mpg towing my crawler on the highway.

Last edited by dixiepc; 08-12-2013 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
Jake
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The stock blowers are just ok. They are hard to get to and clean out. I've replaced mine twice. I've never been able to get to the coils to clean them out, sure would be nice though.

Jake
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2010 Suburban K2500 Duramax powered

96 K2500 Suburban
Peninsular Diesel 6.5TD
3.73 gears, Heath Remote PMD, Heath Heavy Duty Lift Pump, Banks 3" downpipe, BD 4" exhaust, JK headlight booster kit,
Heath HP4 PCM, manual glow plug switch, vacuum pump eliminated. Hotchkis sway bars on the greasy side. High idle mod. Four wheel disc brakes.

2012 Acura TL V-6 (280hp)
2006 Harley Springer Softail FXSTSI (already modded and putting out more power)
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:46 AM   #4 (permalink)
prichmon
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Thanks guys...

Dixie does it just unbolt? Or do I have to remove other parts to pull the blower? What kind of coil cleaner did you get? When you sprayed it did it just run out the condensation hole?
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1994 GMC Yukon 6.5td, 4l80e, HX40wii 369K miles, ssdiesel pmd on heat sink behind grill, custom exhaust, flow master crossover and DP, 14 bolt 3.42 No slip Powertrax rear. Buddy chip for the HX, walbro lift pump; aux tranny cooler, bosch glow plugs, aux 2 micron fuel filter, high cap. tranny pan, aux tranny filter, ARP Head studs, K47 air box, SS step bars, front end and brakes rebuilt, 3/4 ton calipers, Bosch injectors, Feed the Beast, Fuel psi gauge, EGT, trans temp, Boost gauges, new fuel tank and sock, and the addiction continues.....

SOLD...1994 c1500 ext cab sb 6.5td, 4l80e auto, 200K miles,

SOLD....1995 K1500 ext cab sb 6.5td, 4l80e auto, 286K miles,
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
dixiepc
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I started by taking the glove box out where I could see. The hardest part is getting the cover off the blower. The small bolts that hold the cover on are mostly on top under the computer. I have no computer in mine so it was a little easier. After you get that off, there is a larger bolt under the corner of the dash by the door that needs to be remover so that you can tilt the dash out at the bottom to get the blower out. After that just putt the wires on the blower motor and unbolt it and slip it out. You have to turn it the right way to get it out.

When it's out take a flash light and look through the hole to the left and kind of up. You will see the evaporator core. Sometimes they are cover with hair and dust and stuff and sometimes they only have some debris down in the bottom. Either way you heed to get as much or that out as you can. You can use an old tooth brush, or air, or what ever. When you've got all of that out that you can just spray in the coil cleaner. I pretty much fill the cavity with foam, when it dies down I do it again several times. Then take a hose and rinse it out really good. If you don't rinse to hard, all the water goes out through the drain. The coil cleaner came from Home Depot in a spray bomb. They call it a no rinse coil cleaner.

After all that put in your new blower and put it all back together. It's not as hard as it sounds. No more that what the new blower motors cost, I wouldn't go through this without getting one. They come with a new fan also.
__________________
1992 Suburban, J-code 6.2L from a 1986 CUCV, NV4500, BW4401
9" lift with straight axle conversion, HP Dana 44 with Loc-Right in front, Dana 60 with Detroit in rear, 4.10 gears, 4 wheel disc brakes
37 x 12.50R16.5LT HUMMV tires (rolls out at 35")
2.5" true duals with Flowmaster SUV 50's with a 2.5" H-pipe just in front of the mufflers bent over the driveshaft.
Averages 18+ mpg around town.

1997 K2500 Silverado 6.5 TD, 2000 GM enhanced block, Extend Cab, Short Box, with a NV4500. 4" Diamond Eye straight exhaust. Holset H1C turbo with 60mm compressor wheel and 14 cm exhaust housing. Converted to a 5149 DB2 set to 4911 specs by Tim at Accurate Diesel.
Averages 18+ mpg around town and 14+ mpg towing my crawler on the highway.
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
4thesporty
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I did the same thing Dixie did on my truck and I did regain some flow, but it still sucks in a crew cab. I had my dash apart a couple of weekends ago to replace a piece and saw that the ducting "seals" were not in the best of shape. Basically it is foam tape wrapped around where the ducting meets the vents.

I am going to find something to replace that to make sure I get all the air I can out of the vents and not behind the dash, but wish that I could fine a better fan to retrofit in there.

I was helping my buddy charge his 04 GMC's 134a the other day and put my temp gauge in the drivers side vent to get an idea of temperature and it kept getting blown out (no clip on it). His truck moves such a larger volume of air that it almost didn't matter if his vent temps were not down to 40ish.
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1994 Chevy K3500 4x4 Crew Cab SRW 212,000 miles
-SOLD 05-08-15
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
dixiepc
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Yea, I would like to find a better fan too. But it does smell a lot better.
__________________
1992 Suburban, J-code 6.2L from a 1986 CUCV, NV4500, BW4401
9" lift with straight axle conversion, HP Dana 44 with Loc-Right in front, Dana 60 with Detroit in rear, 4.10 gears, 4 wheel disc brakes
37 x 12.50R16.5LT HUMMV tires (rolls out at 35")
2.5" true duals with Flowmaster SUV 50's with a 2.5" H-pipe just in front of the mufflers bent over the driveshaft.
Averages 18+ mpg around town.

1997 K2500 Silverado 6.5 TD, 2000 GM enhanced block, Extend Cab, Short Box, with a NV4500. 4" Diamond Eye straight exhaust. Holset H1C turbo with 60mm compressor wheel and 14 cm exhaust housing. Converted to a 5149 DB2 set to 4911 specs by Tim at Accurate Diesel.
Averages 18+ mpg around town and 14+ mpg towing my crawler on the highway.

Last edited by dixiepc; 08-13-2013 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:17 AM   #8 (permalink)
prichmon
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I have found the defrost is partially open allowing cool air to exit to the windshield. Also there is a crack and 1x1/2 inch hole in the lower air box after the blower.

How is the lower airbox connected to the upper? I seem to recall a couple screws and metal clips holding the 2 halves together.

Has anyone pulled the lower plastic cover? Are all the lower boxes the same between trucks and SUVs? I want to try to get a lower box from a junk yard.

Is there an easy way to get to the defrost door to check on the seal?

Thanks guys.
__________________
1994 GMC Yukon 6.5td, 4l80e, HX40wii 369K miles, ssdiesel pmd on heat sink behind grill, custom exhaust, flow master crossover and DP, 14 bolt 3.42 No slip Powertrax rear. Buddy chip for the HX, walbro lift pump; aux tranny cooler, bosch glow plugs, aux 2 micron fuel filter, high cap. tranny pan, aux tranny filter, ARP Head studs, K47 air box, SS step bars, front end and brakes rebuilt, 3/4 ton calipers, Bosch injectors, Feed the Beast, Fuel psi gauge, EGT, trans temp, Boost gauges, new fuel tank and sock, and the addiction continues.....

SOLD...1994 c1500 ext cab sb 6.5td, 4l80e auto, 200K miles,

SOLD....1995 K1500 ext cab sb 6.5td, 4l80e auto, 286K miles,
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:19 AM   #9 (permalink)
Spollock818
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I just did the removal of the fan motor and cleaning of the condensor. Wow. What a difference. Since my 96 does not have a cabin filter it was plugged real bad. I reached in and took out leaves and a lot of gunk. Then I sprayed purple power on it and scrubbed it with a a tooth brush making sure not to damage the fins. Once that was done I put an old towel on the floor and sprayed the hose nozzel until it ran clean out of the overflow tube in the engine bay. I highly recommend this if you have weak air flow!!!
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