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S300 Install

24K views 144 replies 13 participants last post by  paleyjim 
#1 ·
I’ve been working toward a turbo swap for quite a while now and I think I’m finally getting close to the install so I thought I would start a thread to share some info and throw some photos out there for you guys.

My current setup is in my signature, but since I update my signature as I go, here is the engine/fuel related stuff:


  • 4” Custom stainless exhaust with large magnaflow muffler.
  • 2.5” Custom stainless crossover with external wastegate bypassing passenger side manifold – controlled by factory boost control system.
  • K47 air box/filter
  • #9 resistor
  • Quadstar87 tune – I’ll leave it up to Quadstar87 if he wants to comment/share details on the current tune
  • GM8
  • Fuel prefilter, DRP02 fuel pump, modified FFM (FTB mods), modified fuel inlet fitting in injection pump, and a fuel pressure sensor verifying about 18 psi into the injection pump
  • FACTORY DOWNPIPE – I never updated this since I have been planning this turbo upgrade with a custom 3.5” stainless downpipe.
I’m really pretty happy with the way the truck currently runs. It isn’t what I would call a hot rod, but it does get around pretty decent and is fun to drive.


The turbo I’ll be trying is an S300 with a 1.10 A/R, T4 turbine housing. The compressor wheel measures about 64.5/91.4mm.The turbine measures about 76.2/67.6mm.In its original application it supported 285 HP with 30 psi of boost.I’ve smoothed out both the compressor and the turbine housing to make them look nice and I’m planning to ceramic coat the turbine housing and duracoat the compressor housing.

Progress on this thread will be a little slow since I have quite a few projects going on right now.

Pics:
1. Test fit from a couple years ago
2. Turbine housing on spare manifold with adapter plate
3. Shiny turbine housing
4. Shiny compressor housing
5. Blasted turbine, shiny compressor
 

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#80 ·
Getting closer...
 

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#81 ·
Profile shot mang
 
#82 ·
What are your plans for a coating?
 
#83 ·
For now it will likely just stay bare steel. Once it warms up enough to paint I'll probably just hit it with a rattle can or I may duracoat it.
 
#84 ·
Admire all the work you put into it. Guess I need to break out my aluminum casting stuff and see if I can cast one. Maybe when it warms up a bit. From what I see it does indeed need to be "clockable". Never cast an elbow of sorts, will require several casting master molds to assemble a workable piece.
 
#85 ·
Well, I was going to hold out on photos 'till this thing was pretty much done, but since Sparkys Tacoma asked for a profile I'll add a couple more photos. I've been blending and smoothing the inside welds so here is a shot of that and the profile.
 

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#86 ·
A lot of porting to go but I like it
 
#87 ·
I finished blending the welds on the inside and put the halves together. Still have some grinding/blending to do.

I had the flange pretty flat at one point, but it appears the welding today twisted things up again. I have an idea that might work.... time will tell....
 

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#88 ·
Well shoot looks pretty good
 
#89 ·
Gat dammm man that twist is bad...

No more Chubby Checker LP's for you.
 
#90 · (Edited)
anything in mind for the warpage? might be an idea to cut another lower flange out of 1/2" and tack it down to the table, and just weld your piece to it..... looks good, and we commend the work you have into this already....:thumb::thumb:...J&J
 
#91 ·
anything in mind for the warpage? might be an idea to cut another lower flange out of 1/2" and tack it down to the table, and just weld your piece to it.....
Exactly what I have in mind. :thumb:

looks good, and we commend the work you have into this already....:thumb::thumb:...J&J
Thanks! Should have some interesting photos to share tomorrow night. Time for some test fitting. :clap:
 
#92 ·
If all else fails. Boat anchor
 
#93 ·
Tr00b is getting tired of holding the truck up.
 

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#94 ·
But we're making progress.
 

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#95 ·
Motor run. Video!
 
#96 ·
Well, it was a good day. We didn't get far enough to get in a test drive, but we made some good progress. This first batch of photos shows the turbo bolted in place. You can see the drain line does not reach in one of the photos. We cut it and added in a piece of hose for now. This will allow test fitting this turbo and then switching back to the GM8. Since the upper intake is not done, I'm looking at hacking the factory upper. That is why it is showing up in some of the photos.
More photos to come...
 

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#97 ·
Welding the downpipe.
Drain line connected.
Downpipe photos.

The downpipe fabrication is slow going. Getting a 3.5" pipe to twist around all the obstacles takes some care. We nearly made it all the way down to my 4" exhaust, but had to call it quits for the day. You can see the 4 bolt flange on my 4" pipe in one of the photos. The size of the pipe and the twists and turns it takes are making it difficult to install. At the length we have complete now, we have to remove the turbo in order to get the pipe to drop down from the top. Adding any more length will make it impossible to install. At this point, we're thinking of cutting the straight section and doing a 2 piece downpipe with a band clamp in the middle.

The GM8 is back in place and the truck is up and running.
 

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#98 ·
Wow that downpipe has more engineering than nasa can handle.
 
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#99 ·
I ordered a set of 3.5" V-band rings and a V-band clamp to turn this into a 2 piece downpipe. I'm not sure if I have enough room for these, but we'll give them a try.
 
#100 · (Edited)
maybe time for a bit of lift, 2" or so, makes an amazing difference fitting in the big pipes and stuff....
 
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#101 ·
Made some progress tonight. I intended just to get set up for tomorrow, but ended up getting the turbo and (partial) downpipe back in place and got the inner fender put back in to test for clearance. I can get the inner fender in place, but it does touch. Tomorrow I'll look for a way to move the DP away from the fender just a bit more. If all else fails, I'll dent the inner fender. It looks like there will be clearance for the vband clamp right about where the ground strap is. I'm very happy with how it is going so far. Here are a few photos with the inner fender in place.
 

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#102 ·
Bigger hammer! Yeah that Lil piece of metal ain't gonna stop you is it!?
 
#103 ·
for sure its tight.....
 
#104 ·
Can you manually crank the wheel to the right to check tire clearance?
 
#105 ·
Good suggestion but I don't think there will be a need. The inner fender is bolted in and just barely touches. Barely any clearancing required.

Just got out to the shop to get after it again.
 
#106 ·
I haven't made as much progress as I hoped to so far today. Was interrupted by a friend that stopped by to talk.

I adjusted one of my angles in order to pull the pipe away from the inner fender. This got me clearance, but not enough. I'm sure it would have rattled as the engine moved. So then I rolled the lip on the inner fender and massaged it just a bit for some clearance.

I then had to modify another angle to get additional clearance to the crossover and frame.

I've started cutting some small sections that I can start fitting together to make up the last little bit to connect to the rest of the exhaust. It is close.

Here are some updated photos of the clearance around different items like the R/D, frame, and inner fender.
 

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#107 ·
Good pics and tight fit. Usually I am just watching and holding stuff here while Jeff is building the turbo setups and downpipes. Seen a few real tight ones, yours is right up there with the best....:thumb::thumb:
 
#109 ·
Thanks! Appreciate the compliment. I always question if my fab skills are up to the challenge of projects like this. Usually causes me to drag my feet a little before jumping in and giving her a go.

I got a little more done yesterday. Added some more to the downpipe and started welding up all the seams. I am one piece away from connecting to the 4" exhaust. With the turbo out of the way, I can just wiggle the pipe in and out right now. I think if I give the truck a "temporary body lift" (jack the cab up a little) I will be able to get the entire pipe in and out in one piece.

DieselPro said:
You've got to put an exhaust cutout in there somewhere.
That would be fun on a play truck, but I don't want the noise on my DD. This thing already has a 4" exhaust and a large Magnaflow, so I'm not sure there is a lot to be gained anyway. I do like the idea of your boost activated soot extruder, though!
 
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