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6.5/6.2 High Performance Engine Modifications High Performance Turbocharger and Engine Related Modifications Discussion Forum - Specific To The GM 6.2 & 6.5 Diesel Engine.

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Old 03-04-2016, 02:26 AM   #1 (permalink)
MikeV
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Semi-performance GEP build.

Last November I had a driver run a light and bash in the front side of my truck. After a few months of arguing with the insurance, and after a couple more months of looking at other trucks and not liking what I found, I have decided to repair mine.

The plan is to take the insurance payout and build mine back up and use whatever is left for another truck project (1-ton with 12valve swap for a towing rig )

As much fun as an all out power build would be, I am trying to as reasonable as a can (within reason) because I am also refreshing everything else about the truck as I go.

The engine is just one piece, and I am actually swapping the 599 block that is in it now with the GEP engine that is in the aforementioned 1-ton, so that is where I am getting the GEP engine.

Anyway, now that the boring part is one of the way, the build that is rolling around in my head.

Feel free to tell me that my parts list is stupid and that I should feel bad. Or, you know, critique my build.

GEP block and heads.
ARP studs.
Cometic head gaskets.
Fluidamper.
Turned up 6.5l NA pump. It came with the GEP engine (5485?) I was going to use it for this build because it is either new or very low mileage. I'm pretty sure it is going to be the limiting factor for power.
HX35w turbo.
2.5" crossover and 3" down pipe.
HO water pump and dual t/stat.
Dmax fan and clutch.
And if I can make it fit, an intercooler.

My goal for the build is to make as much power as I can, but not at too of big a cost to reliability to the stock GEP internals. For the price range of crank, pistons, etc, I would be looking at a 12valve swap instead. Plus with the exception of the studs and head gaskets the parts are compatible with one of the other four 6.5L's or two 6.2L that are floating around here.


Now, what I haven't decided on and what thickness head gaskets to get. My understanding is that the stock gaskets are .041". Would .040 compressed be okay or should I go for .045" or .050"?


I've sorta been piecing this together for the past few weeks(looking for a turbo, got one last night) but I figured I should ask the folk who have done this a time or two before I drop $1500 on parts.


I am currently working on on the 599 engine getting it ready to swap into the 1-ton (just got it out tonight) so I won't need the parts for a couple weeks but I want get them ordered so I'm not waiting on them.

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1994 K2500. Ex.Cab. Long Bed. 281,499mi. Original #599 Engine. NV4500 with 4.10 Gears. Rebuilt Tranmission and Transfercase. Manual IP Conversion. Dual Oil Coolers. Homemade TM. Isspro "EV Red" Boost and Pyro. 20psi Oil Pressure Alarm. 60G Glow-Plugs with Manual Override. New Bosch Injectors. 265/75/16 Goodyear DuraTrac Tires. Go-Rhino 3000 Series Grill Guard. 128W LED Light Bar. Dual 18W LED Back-Up Lights.
Wrecked. Rebuilding, one Amazon box at a time



"My pin of reality is about to pop your bubble of denial."
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Old 03-04-2016, 09:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
DieselPro
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New timing chain?

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Old 03-04-2016, 11:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
ng0451
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I'd recommend getting a timing gear set from Leroy, he's starting to sell those now. They're not on his website, you have to pm him. I'm not sure about the price though
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Performance: AFE LBZ Intake, AFE IC Pipes, ISSPRO EV2 Gauges, LBZ Mouthpiece, 4" MBRP Straight pipe exhaust to 8" tip, EGR Blocker Plate, Tooned
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*TOTALED 1-21-17* The Freight Train:
1995 Chevrolet K1500 6.5 Turbo Diesel: Leroy Diesel Flight Systems PMD Relo kit behind bumper, EGR Delete (F-Vin Manifolds), Leroy Diesel Braided Oil Cooler Lines, German Bosch Injectors set @2300psi, Holset HX35 w/banks big head wg controller, Walbro FRC-10 from Leroy Diesel, 3 Bar MAP Sensor, Feed The Beast Mod, Quadstar Tuning Single Hot Street HX35 Tune, 3" Downpipe, 4" Diamond Eye Exhaustw/8" MBRP tip, K47 box with 4" piping, Glowshift Black Series Boost, EGT, and Trans Temp, 3.42 gears (GU6 rear end)

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Old 03-05-2016, 01:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
94C1500
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Personally, I would just skip the dual thermostat housing. I prefer that the single thermostat totally blocks off the bypass and send all the coolant through the radiator. As opposed to the dual stat housing always diverting some of the hot water back into the hot engine. It just makes you have to fix that by restricting the bypass line so it doesn't always get hot quickly under load.
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1994 C1500 - 4L80E & 3.42 rear; Custom Multi-Program Chip; L65 intake; "FTB", Walbro FRC-10 lift pump, pre-LP fuel filter & OPS relay mod; D-Tech FSD on heatsink; Big Turbo, 4" to 5" exhaust exits before axle, Cone air filter; "marine" injectors. Propane fumigation and WMI.
ENGINE DESIGN CALCULATORS
LIST OF RECOMMENDED MNX & MODS
HX40 or HX35 V-Band Exhaust Elbows
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Old 03-05-2016, 02:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
94C1500
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Stock gasket starts at .045", maybe compresses to .04" or a little less. I would recommend at least a +0.01" gasket, which you can also get from Felpro. That will drop compression a little, to like 20:1 maybe.


If you got the 12cm turbine HX35, would recommend a 14cm housing or porting the 12cm out at least. With the 4.10 gears, reasonable height tires, and manual transmission you would also have no problems with something like an HX40 that would be more efficient and support the air mass flow with an intercooler better. Even with the DB2, especially if not looking to mod it for extreme output. If you want more reliable power, and commonly at higher RPMs then a larger turbo would help make less boost, and keep the engine cooler and reduce backpressure to let exhaust out.
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1994 C1500 - 4L80E & 3.42 rear; Custom Multi-Program Chip; L65 intake; "FTB", Walbro FRC-10 lift pump, pre-LP fuel filter & OPS relay mod; D-Tech FSD on heatsink; Big Turbo, 4" to 5" exhaust exits before axle, Cone air filter; "marine" injectors. Propane fumigation and WMI.
ENGINE DESIGN CALCULATORS
LIST OF RECOMMENDED MNX & MODS
HX40 or HX35 V-Band Exhaust Elbows

Last edited by 94C1500; 03-05-2016 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 03-06-2016, 06:45 AM   #6 (permalink)
MikeV
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Forgot to mention but, yes I am going to replace the timing chain while I'm there. I'm not completely set on the idea of a gear set, still thinking about that one.


94C1500, I've been told before that the single thermostat cross were thought to be better, is this still the case with the HO water pump? I remember reading rumors that HO pump could pop out freeze plugs with the single stat crossover. I don't put much stock in that since the bypass is the same size, but is there any truth at all to that?


So, something like the Cometic .051 compressed would be considered .010 over? Sorry if it is a dumb question, the more I read on these the more confused I get.

Is there any reason to get Felpro's instead of Cometic? If I understand right, the Cometics are stronger but more picky to seal, whereas the Felpro's seal easier, but may not be as strong with higher amounts of boost.


I got the turbo yesterday and I haven't had a chance to measure the housing yet, it is suppose to be off a 2000 truck with an auto if that means anything. I was going to grab a import HX40 but I found the Holset for an okay price, it was kind of an impulse buy.


How much of an issue would low end lag be with porting/bigger housing, or getting an HX40? The issue I have had with towing in the past was the 3-4 shift dropped the RPM's pretty low, around 1500 or so and I am a little concerned with not being able to build boost on the shifts. Flip side to that is if I can get the RPM up higher in the first place that shouldn't be an issue.


Thank you for the advise, I really do appreciate it.
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1994 K2500. Ex.Cab. Long Bed. 281,499mi. Original #599 Engine. NV4500 with 4.10 Gears. Rebuilt Tranmission and Transfercase. Manual IP Conversion. Dual Oil Coolers. Homemade TM. Isspro "EV Red" Boost and Pyro. 20psi Oil Pressure Alarm. 60G Glow-Plugs with Manual Override. New Bosch Injectors. 265/75/16 Goodyear DuraTrac Tires. Go-Rhino 3000 Series Grill Guard. 128W LED Light Bar. Dual 18W LED Back-Up Lights.
Wrecked. Rebuilding, one Amazon box at a time



"My pin of reality is about to pop your bubble of denial."
-- Michael Vogt

Last edited by MikeV; 03-06-2016 at 06:49 AM.
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Old 03-06-2016, 01:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
94C1500
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Ive never heard of freeze plugs blowing out from just adding a single thermostat. 96 models came with a high output water pump and single thermostat.


Since you have the manual, you are in control of shift points, so if you are towing I would imagine you should be taking the gears out a little further to prevent lugging with a shift. Perhaps with the old setup you didn't have power to take it out much further, but with a better turbo, and a good fuel supply it should have power out to 3500rpm very easily.


I don't have a manual, and I imagine its probably a little worse in shifts with the manual and pulling your foot off the accelerator, but I never have had any trouble keeping boost in shifts, with any turbo, even the AT&T once they are spooled.


The spooling is a personal preference, and if you had issues with the stock turbo, maybe there was something wrong with it or the wastegate. If you spend a lot of time on the highway or interstate, a more free flowing turbine housing will help you. If you don't go over 55mph often, and do a lot of towing around town, then you would be good enough with the HX35 as is.
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1994 C1500 - 4L80E & 3.42 rear; Custom Multi-Program Chip; L65 intake; "FTB", Walbro FRC-10 lift pump, pre-LP fuel filter & OPS relay mod; D-Tech FSD on heatsink; Big Turbo, 4" to 5" exhaust exits before axle, Cone air filter; "marine" injectors. Propane fumigation and WMI.
ENGINE DESIGN CALCULATORS
LIST OF RECOMMENDED MNX & MODS
HX40 or HX35 V-Band Exhaust Elbows
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:35 AM   #8 (permalink)
MikeV
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I looked a turbo a little bit this evening, nearest I can tell it has the 12cm housing, I measured the OD of the housing at 13.6cm. I'm assuming that the 12cm measurement is for ID. I forgot to look for a ID number on the housing.

It has a 12 blade turbine with a 7 blade compressor. I'll probably have to rebuild the turbo and replace the compressor wheel so I may just, throw it in the parts pile and get an HX40.

If I do use the HX35, are there any instructions about porting the housing?
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1994 K2500. Ex.Cab. Long Bed. 281,499mi. Original #599 Engine. NV4500 with 4.10 Gears. Rebuilt Tranmission and Transfercase. Manual IP Conversion. Dual Oil Coolers. Homemade TM. Isspro "EV Red" Boost and Pyro. 20psi Oil Pressure Alarm. 60G Glow-Plugs with Manual Override. New Bosch Injectors. 265/75/16 Goodyear DuraTrac Tires. Go-Rhino 3000 Series Grill Guard. 128W LED Light Bar. Dual 18W LED Back-Up Lights.
Wrecked. Rebuilding, one Amazon box at a time



"My pin of reality is about to pop your bubble of denial."
-- Michael Vogt
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:21 AM   #9 (permalink)
quadstar87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeV View Post
I looked a turbo a little bit this evening, nearest I can tell it has the 12cm housing, I measured the OD of the housing at 13.6cm. I'm assuming that the 12cm measurement is for ID. I forgot to look for a ID number on the housing.

It has a 12 blade turbine with a 7 blade compressor. I'll probably have to rebuild the turbo and replace the compressor wheel so I may just, throw it in the parts pile and get an HX40.

If I do use the HX35, are there any instructions about porting the housing?
The # (12 or 14) is stamped inside one of the exhaust inlet ports. It's not as easy as measuring it IIRC.

As far as the thermostat housing goes, I know mine still gets hot under a heavy load with the HO pump and a dual thermo housing WITH the bypass restriction mod. I've never heard of popping freeze plugs either but I know the dual thermo has never helped my truck.
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Last edited by quadstar87; 03-07-2016 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
MikeV
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I looked and didn't see number stamping, I'll look closer when I get around to rebuilding the turbo. It isn't a huge priority right now.

I'll go ahead and stick to the single thermostat crossover, it will be a little easier to use the DB2 pump anyway.

Any more thoughts on the head gaskets from anyone? Cometic or Fel-pro?

It is a pretty big price jump from the .051 to the .056 Cometic's. .051's may not be quite .010 over but since I'm using studs that may not make any difference.

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1994 K2500. Ex.Cab. Long Bed. 281,499mi. Original #599 Engine. NV4500 with 4.10 Gears. Rebuilt Tranmission and Transfercase. Manual IP Conversion. Dual Oil Coolers. Homemade TM. Isspro "EV Red" Boost and Pyro. 20psi Oil Pressure Alarm. 60G Glow-Plugs with Manual Override. New Bosch Injectors. 265/75/16 Goodyear DuraTrac Tires. Go-Rhino 3000 Series Grill Guard. 128W LED Light Bar. Dual 18W LED Back-Up Lights.
Wrecked. Rebuilding, one Amazon box at a time



"My pin of reality is about to pop your bubble of denial."
-- Michael Vogt
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