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6.5/6.2 High Performance Engine Modifications High Performance Turbocharger and Engine Related Modifications Discussion Forum - Specific To The GM 6.2 & 6.5 Diesel Engine.

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Old 12-31-2015, 06:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
cruiserbrandon
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Very out of the box build

Hey everyone have lurked on here for a while and have been putting a build together for a couple years now that I have been dreaming about for 20 years. This is very non conventional but that's just who I am and I always want to push the envelope. I have prepared myself to fail and lots of trial and error but if I hit my mark I feel this may be something worth documenting.

The plan

Build a 1984 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60 with 1 ton axles, dual transfercases and 40" tires that I can still afford to drive daily if I chose. My dream when I was 12 was a massive diesel powered Land Cruiser like the stock one I grew up with just better, after lots of research and remembering that dream I loved the idea of a supercharged diesel that is mainly for LIGHT DUTY and devoted mainly to moving its own weight with efficiency. That's when a mil spec 93 6.5 with serp belt and like 10k miles on it fell in my lap. Its of course turbo charged but after looking at the extremely inefficient way the turbo has to be setup and how low of boost these high compression motors need to build decent power I started researching other options.

I came across Billet supercharger kit that was installed on an FJ80 and beat the turbocharged version by 2 car links at 1/4 mile and suddenly understood my thinking was in the right direction. But the price was very hard to handle. More research and I come across the Eaton M122 and all its siblings that come from a mid to late model mustang that has a very easily adaptable footprint to the flat intake of these 6.5's I again was intrigued. Plus they are cheap on ebay.

So here is where I need help, considering that I am ready to fail telling me I'm crazy is gonna do little, I would like constructive criticism as to issues I may run into and how to remedy them. The other question is to build 300 hp motor that can handle say 14 lbs of boost and still be a 200,000 mile motor what upgrades am I looking at. Lower bearing cap girdle or whatever the technical name is and of course head studs, am I missing anything?

Heres pics of my build so far, its all mock up of course but you can see I'm holding nothing back, huge link suspension and air bags will keep the axles following the terrain no matter what happens.

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Old 12-31-2015, 06:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
cruiserbrandon
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pics of build








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Old 12-31-2015, 06:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
cruiserbrandon
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Old 12-31-2015, 09:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
DieselPro
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Very ambitious build, hope it works out for you. Blower setup more than likely will require hood mods to clear the setup. Cranks are on the weak side in some 6.5 applications. Blowers do add extra strain to the crank. Blowers in general add a lot of heat to the air charge which also increases EGT's. Blowers do add to the wow factor and may be what you are looking for.

Your application may be a good candidate for two turbos since your pics show room on both sides.

Now my take on blowers is to use a clutch to pop the blower on and off at will. I had the pleasure to work on a Diesel Volvo in a boat. It had a blower and a turbo. The blower clutch was engaged when the boat took off. As the boat started to make boost the blower disengaged and the turbo took over. The thing really jumped out of the water. The blower/turbo setup was factory! The clutch looked just like a AC compressor clutch.
Good build and good luck.

Last edited by DieselPro; 12-31-2015 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 12-31-2015, 09:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
cruiserbrandon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselPro View Post
Very ambitious build, hope it works out for you. Blower setup more than likely will require hood mods to clear the setup. Cranks are on the weak side in some 6.5 applications. Blowers do add extra strain to the crank. Blowers in general add a lot of heat to the air charge which also increases EGT's. Blowers do add to the wow factor and may be what you are looking for.

Your application may be a good candidate for two turbos since your pics show room on both sides.

Now my take on blowers is to use a clutch to pop the blower on and off at will. I had the pleasure to work on a Diesel Volvo in a boat. It had a blower and a turbo. The blower clutch was engaged when the boat took off. As the boat started to make boost the blower disengaged and the turbo took over. The thing really jumped out of the water. The blower/turbo setup was factory! The clutch looked just like a AC compressor clutch.
Good build and good luck.
Thanks for the response, since half the body is gonna get hacked up to clear large tires anyway cutting the hood doesn't bother me much. The crank is a consideration and that is one that I need more info on since mine is a J engine code mill spec is it known for crank issues? If so are there options for upgraded bullet proof cranks? I'm fully prepared to spend whatever I need to to make this thing the ultimate rig but of course I don't want to waste money if I can "make" or "adapt" to save like the supercharger from another source.
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Old 12-31-2015, 09:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
cruiserbrandon
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I also forgot to mention with the wastegate option that I have seen ran many times before, I can run boost based upon throttle position, drive pressure, boost pressure or whatever tickles my fancy really. This option will make the supercharger really nothing more than a blower or freewheel until the wastegate is shut and the boost goes internal instead of wasted externally. Improves efficiency and offers more control for power vs finesse on the trails. Been researching superchargers for like 2 years as I planned this out so I'm hoping I have enough knowledge to make it happen. As for twins that was my original idea but these motors just don't have the drive pressure of a long stroke cummins to push lot of exhaust to overcome back pressure of a turbo so I feel that twins would be rather inefficient. I am completely open though to suggestions if someone has built a nice twins setup that is still peppy and fuel mileage is on par. I have an exhaust pipe bender so make whatever isn't a problem, from what Ive read though the twins didn't work real well on the 6.5.
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Old 12-31-2015, 11:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
dieselolds
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Scat makes a cast steel crankshaft.Supposed to be stronger than the GM unit.Sells for around $400 bucks I think.Heath diesel sells the arp main stud kit for the 6.5.You'll need that as well if you plan on pushing it hard.
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1996 GMC Sierra ext.cab Z71....with new genuine GM 6.2 660 short block,4L80E/6.5TD cylinder heads,DS4 5521S,82' 6.2 rocker arms,acdelco TP1069/Racor 20S fuel filters,4" diamond eye exhaust,3.73 G80 locker,stanadyne 37818 injectors

1996 Chevy K1500 Z71.....with '99 6.5 506 goodwrench van engine,88-93 6.2 diesel Napa y-pipe,'87 700R4,acdelco TP630F/Racor 20S fuel filters,Bosch non-turbo injectors,stanadyne blue tag 5088

1993 Chevy K1500 Z71...with 97' 6.5 TD 506 block,82' 6.2 rocker arms,stanadyne 37818 injectors,stanadyne blue tag 4911,DSG girdle,reman 700R4,Banks boost/pyrometer gauges,acdelco TP1069/TP943 fuel filter system,4 diamond eye exhaust/2 piece crossover

2008 Mercedes Benz E320 3.0 V6 turbo diesel

2013 Volkswagen Passat 2.0 TDI

Last edited by dieselolds; 12-31-2015 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 01-03-2016, 12:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
mbost
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Wow. I never thought to look at scat. The forged cranks I've seen have been in the $2000 range, should be almost indestructible. Following closely. This should be pretty awesome.
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Gear Drive Timing Set, IP turned up, Cam/IP timing advanced, 6.5 Marine Injectors, K&N Air filter, SM465, NP205, 3.08 Gears, 33" Tires, 6" Lift/Dual Front Shocks, P/S Cooler & Filter installed, Aftermarket Oil Cooler, ARP Head Studs, 6.5 Head Gaskets, 1" Rear Coolant Crossover, 97 6.5 engine fan/clutch, 6.5 Electric Lift Pump. 6.5 Filter Housing, 6.5 GM4 Turbo 10 psi, AD244, 6.5 Serp Belt System
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Engines: Mobil 5W40 Synthetic W/Fleetguard Filters. NV4500: Redline MT 85. GM14, GM10, SM465 and NP205: Royal Purple 85W140. GMTD Scan Tech
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Old 01-03-2016, 02:37 PM   #9 (permalink)
roadhog0
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Curious to see how this one turns out, looks like a cool project!! Why the air suspension? Why not just put coils in? Also, what are you doing for a parking brake since I see you're putting disc brakes on your 14 bolt?
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
chevy410
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Driveline brakes work very well as parking brakes and the holding power is multiplied by the gear ratio.

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