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6.5/6.2 High Performance Engine Modifications High Performance Turbocharger and Engine Related Modifications Discussion Forum - Specific To The GM 6.2 & 6.5 Diesel Engine.

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Old 11-23-2011, 10:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
4thesporty
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My FTB/Fuel line upgrade

In anticipation for some future upgrades, I decided I needed to tackle this. Although I had no problems, per se, with the factory system other than the weak LP I did want to get the factory FFM out of the engine bay and clean things up a bit, while adding a better LP and a few other goodies along the way.

To start off, I removed the entire fuel supply line, from the tank to the IP, including the LP and FFM. While I had the tank dropped, I took the oportunity to install the Metrum Rod Fuel Sending Unit from pmdcable:




This is a nice upgrade to the factory float system, and is more of a TLI. My gauge now drops more linear, and I don't get the way over full reading anymore.

While I was in there I removed the fuel sock too.

I then attached an adaptor fitting on the supply line to convert the threads to a -6an male fitting.

Moving on to the pre-LP filter, I used a WIX 33239 fuel filter (32 micron) with the appropriate base for it.

I then plumbed in a Walbro FRB-5.

Then to my new primary filter...WIX 33418 (fuel/water seperator w/ drain....12 micron) with it's appropriate base.

Both filters and the LP are mounted to a piece of 16 gauge steel that I drilled the mounting holes in a welded some flange nuts to the back of to facilitate the removal of any of these components. Then the plate was welded to my inner frame in between the torsion bar crossmember and carrier bearing crossmember. It is about 23" X 9" (L X W).





The plate sits about 1/2" below my frame. My primary filter is for a detroit diesel, and is too long. I don't like the drain fitting sitting that low on my truck, so it will get changed out for a WIX 33123 which is for a 6.2 diesel. That is the same filter as I have, but is about 2" shorter which will be perfect.

After the primary filter, you can barely make out my FP gauge sending unit up there.

From that, it is a straight shot to the IP where I used a 135* hose end screwed into a drilled out adaptor fitting screwed into a drilled out inlet fitting. (Thanks for the fitting Leroy!) I opened up the holes to 5/32" from the stock 1/8".




A while ago I added a Kennedy Diesel lift pump control harness, but could never use it as my factory LP would short it for some reason, but with the Walbro it works great.

I still have some things to finish on it though. I need to:

1) Solder my LP connections ( I wanted to start the truck, so I used temporary butt connectors)
2) Wire my FP gauge..I'm curious what kind of pressures I'm getting now
3) Replace the primary filter with the shorter one


I had been collecting parts for about a month to do this whole thing and have about $650 total in the project, but that includes some large expenses like the autometer FP gauge ($200), Walbro LP ($120), and Metrum Rod ($130). I am very happy now with the setup and now I feel confident to move on to future upgrades.

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Adam

1994 Chevy K3500 4x4 Crew Cab SRW 212,000 miles
-SOLD 05-08-15
HX40WII Turbo
-4" Turbo Back DE Exhaust
-FTB upgrade with SS -6an line from tank to IP
-Walbro FRB-5 LP with pre and post Wix Filters
-New Bosch Injectors (2200 psi)/Duraterm GPs
-Buddy's single tow tune
-RCD 6" lift kit
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Old 11-24-2011, 05:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
Mike K3500
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That's Awesome.

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Old 11-24-2011, 10:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
lost with out spark plugs
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Very nicely done. I was going to say some thing about the butt connecters but you covered it. They do make heat shrink crimp connectors that are weather tight.
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kevin
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95 k1500,4L80E
2nd owner of my fathers 95 k1500 chevy. down pipe, chip, gages (trans temp, pyro, boost), hd planets in trans, 3rd trans cooler, 3.73 posi,alcohol and water inj. gutted intake, homemade air ride, home made turbo master,
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
JMJNet
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Great upgrade!!!

So, you basically getting rid of the stock fuel filter??

That is great!!!
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Old 11-24-2011, 03:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
lost with out spark plugs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMJNet View Post
Great upgrade!!!

So, you basically getting rid of the stock fuel filter??

That is great!!!
And lift pump.
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kevin
pontiac mi
95 k1500,4L80E
2nd owner of my fathers 95 k1500 chevy. down pipe, chip, gages (trans temp, pyro, boost), hd planets in trans, 3rd trans cooler, 3.73 posi,alcohol and water inj. gutted intake, homemade air ride, home made turbo master,
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Old 11-27-2011, 06:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
4thesporty
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Finished up a few loose ends last night.

I got the FP gauge all done and wired in. My truck, a crew cab, is supposed to have a block off plate in the overhead console. When I got it, it was missing, so a while ago at the junkyard I found a '94 suburban that has the single rear AC knob in the overhead console and grabbed that plate. I took a 2" hole saw and a dremel to open up the hole for my 2 1/16" gauge, then a little interior paint and voila!



Of course, as soon as this little project was over, another one reared it's head at me: Now my EGT gauge is bouncing all over the place, and I am unable to read it. Since it was working fine, I think it has something to do with the wiring I spliced into. I have 4 gauges with all their ground tied into one wire, which goes out the firewall to an engine ground, same with the 12 volt power, all going to an add a fuse, and of course same with all the lighting going to an add a fuse for the lighting.

I think with the 3 grounds from gauges (trans, EGT, FP) and 4 grounds from gauge lights (trans, EGT, FP, Boost) all on one 16 gauge ground, it is too much. I will be changing my ground wire to 12 gauge and re-soldering all those connections to it. Hopefully that will fix the issue.

I also got the LP connectors soldered in and got rid of those ugly butt connectors, as well as loomed up all the wiring under the truck.

I have noticed a small leak on my primary filter at the -6an to 1/2" NPT adaptor. It is really annoying that I will have to remove so much to get in there and fix it now. All the fittings I used are from the same place, anfittingsdirect, and they didn't thread into the filter bases very well, so I ordered some good steel aeroquip ones from Summit along with a smaller primary filter and I guess that will be next weekends project.

Winter finally seems to be rearing it's head here in north central TX so the temps are down to the 40s and the wind is up. I don't know how you guys up north work on your trucks in this weather! LOL.
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Adam

1994 Chevy K3500 4x4 Crew Cab SRW 212,000 miles
-SOLD 05-08-15
HX40WII Turbo
-4" Turbo Back DE Exhaust
-FTB upgrade with SS -6an line from tank to IP
-Walbro FRB-5 LP with pre and post Wix Filters
-New Bosch Injectors (2200 psi)/Duraterm GPs
-Buddy's single tow tune
-RCD 6" lift kit
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
Pruittx2
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I don't know how you guys up north work on your trucks in this weather! LOL.

Pole barn and torpedo heater! Works for me.
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1995 GMC SLT Suburban 208,000 miles
Buddy Super chip, 4" exhaust, FTB Mod, Bosch Injectors, GU6-G80, 4x4 Posi-Lok, OPS relay mod,
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
Steve83
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Nice work! Where did that screen come from in the last pic of your first post?

[/topic]
Do your visor extensions hit your console? When you get tired of looking at the peeling upholstery on the visors, it's REALLY easy to replace:
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Last edited by Steve83; 11-28-2011 at 02:54 AM.
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:44 AM   #9 (permalink)
4thesporty
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Steve,

That screen covers the 4 holes in that fitting as a last ditch effort to keep foreign debris out of the IP.

I have seen your write up on the visors before, nice work and I plan on going that route at the same time I redo my headliner.
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Adam

1994 Chevy K3500 4x4 Crew Cab SRW 212,000 miles
-SOLD 05-08-15
HX40WII Turbo
-4" Turbo Back DE Exhaust
-FTB upgrade with SS -6an line from tank to IP
-Walbro FRB-5 LP with pre and post Wix Filters
-New Bosch Injectors (2200 psi)/Duraterm GPs
-Buddy's single tow tune
-RCD 6" lift kit
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:16 AM   #10 (permalink)
racer55
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Heck the high 40's is just when it begins to get comfortable for working on the trucks.

When the heat gets working in my shop the stat will be set at 50 and that might be too warm(although when it gets to -10 or -20f with a wind chill factor outside 50 will likely be very nice!

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Last edited by racer55; 11-28-2011 at 11:16 AM.
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