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6.5L Diesel Engine Discuss the 6.5 GM diesel engine & associated components. Automatic transmission questions & problems belong in the 4L80/85 - 4L60E - 6L90 Transmission Forum

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Old 06-03-2012, 11:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
4thesporty
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New harmonic balancer installed today..

While under the front of my truck the other day greasing the suspension I noticed that the crank pulley has seen better days so I got a new Dorman one (ugh) and went about installing it this afternoon.

I removed the upper radiator shroud, serp belt, fan/clutch assy, then the lower radiator shroud. This gives plenty of access to get the sucker off.

I unbolted the (4) 15mm bolts holding on the pulley and wiggled it off. I looked at the harmonic balancer and noticed the rubber was a little distorted looking so I reached up to give it a wiggle and with very little force, the outer ring of the balancer came off in my hands!

I must have caught it just in time.

I went back to the store to purchase a new one (suprisingly in stock...Dorman also). I also "rented" a HB removal kit. More on that later. They did not have a HB install kit for rent that had the correct M16 X 1.5 adaptor for this engine so I figured I would go find one or go get a long bolt, nut, and some washers for it later.

I got home and easily pulled the old one off using the removal kit, but I noticed that the bolt used for pushing threaded right in to my crank snout...cool

I took the new HB and got it started on the snout, then used both the old washer and the new washer(came with new HB) then threaded on the jaw thing and used it to spin on the new HB.



Man, that was too easy.

I got the HB bottomed out, then removed my improvised setup and torqued the new bolt down to 200 lb-ft.



I put the new pulley on, and bolts got some loctite 271 and then torqued to 20 lb-ft.



Then got the rest buttoned up. I have to say that it idles a little smoother now, maybe it's just me though.

Here is the kit I "rented" from Autozone and worked great for removal and installation. It cost $20 here, then I took it back for a full refund.





This really is an easy job to do and it takes longer getting stuff out of the way then it does to actually do the job.

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1994 Chevy K3500 4x4 Crew Cab SRW 212,000 miles
-SOLD 05-08-15
HX40WII Turbo
-4" Turbo Back DE Exhaust
-FTB upgrade with SS -6an line from tank to IP
-Walbro FRB-5 LP with pre and post Wix Filters
-New Bosch Injectors (2200 psi)/Duraterm GPs
-Buddy's single tow tune
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Old 06-04-2012, 12:18 AM   #2 (permalink)
PrivatePilot
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Good job. Your engine thanks you.

Hope your pulley lasts longer than my last 3 have...ugh!

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Mark - Courtice, Ontario, Canada.
SOLD: '97 C3500 Crew Cab Long Box Dually 6.5 Turbo Diesel.
Rebuilt with Navistar 506 block spring 2012
Special thanks to Racer55 and WhiteK2500 for their invaluable assistance!
Helping a friend: Duckies Longarm Quilting Oshawa / Durham Region!
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:16 AM   #3 (permalink)
57diesel
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There is the higher quality fluid damper but is there a good pulley too? It sounds like the dorman stuff is not much better than an old factory one.
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98 Burb K25 4.10's 250K miles, new to me, pretty clean and stock.
95 Burb K25 3.73's CRASHED 250K miles, looks to have been rebuilt at least once, stock, bad rust, DE exhaust w/walker muffler, 8' western plow.
81 Buick Riviera GAVE AWAY with the infamous Olds 5.7 diesel possibly still going strong.
15 VW Golf wagon, TDI. Did the buyback on my 13 Jetta TDI wagon so it was basically a trade up.
96 Burb K25 3.42's SOLD at 340K miles, told it was all original, close race between engine wearing out or body completely rust out.
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
M1006
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AVOID Dorman... And here's a tip on crank pulleys....

Nice job, definetly a worthwhile main't item so many people ignore and never do until its too late. Also ALWAYS place both the crank pulley and harm balancer the same time.... Or at least if you are in there doing one of them make sure the other looks DARN good, if not replace it too. Not doing to would be like going and buying ONE new shoe and then running a marathon like that. SO stupid! A word on Dorman... Avoid at all costs. Trust me, i run an auto shop...I have had a lot of experience with dorman stuff over the years and its been one disappointment after another. And sadly I've even noticed it getting worse and worse. The only time we will ever use it anymore is if customer insists on cheapest option (idiots).... but we always warn them against it.

One tip... If you are looking to replace your crank pulley Peninsular Engines new take-off OEM pulleys for the 6.5 for sale for like $65. The second cheapest I could find for an AC Delco one was on rock auto for about $95, so this is a pretty good deal. They take these off brand new engines they buy from General Engine Products that they turn into marine units. They also have flywheels, speed sensors, and a few other "take off" goodies. I spoke with randy there and he was professional and friendly.

Last edited by M1006; 06-04-2012 at 09:47 PM. Reason: to clarify/complete the post
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
PrivatePilot
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Thanks for the tip on the Peninsular pulls...I may just give them a call - I'm tired of paying $75 every 1.5 years and going through the hassle of replacing the stupid chinese garbage pulleys.

Curiously enough the last 3 failures have all happened really close to home, but given how much we travel it's only a matter of time before one happens when we're in the middle of nowhere.
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Mark - Courtice, Ontario, Canada.
SOLD: '97 C3500 Crew Cab Long Box Dually 6.5 Turbo Diesel.
Rebuilt with Navistar 506 block spring 2012
Special thanks to Racer55 and WhiteK2500 for their invaluable assistance!
Helping a friend: Duckies Longarm Quilting Oshawa / Durham Region!
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Old 06-05-2012, 05:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
Jazen
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Nice write-up. Did you have to secure the flywheel from turning when torquing on your HB?
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:49 AM   #7 (permalink)
4thesporty
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Yes, you need to pull the inspection cover and hold the flywheel while torquing. I used a piece of angle iron.

When taking the old one off, I used an impact.
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Adam

1994 Chevy K3500 4x4 Crew Cab SRW 212,000 miles
-SOLD 05-08-15
HX40WII Turbo
-4" Turbo Back DE Exhaust
-FTB upgrade with SS -6an line from tank to IP
-Walbro FRB-5 LP with pre and post Wix Filters
-New Bosch Injectors (2200 psi)/Duraterm GPs
-Buddy's single tow tune
-RCD 6" lift kit
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:53 AM   #8 (permalink)
PrivatePilot
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Using an impact on anything directly connected to your crankshaft is a bad idea.

Good old fashioned hand tools is what you want to use here, and a good torque wrench for the re-torque...200 ft lbs is a lot of torque.
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Mark - Courtice, Ontario, Canada.
SOLD: '97 C3500 Crew Cab Long Box Dually 6.5 Turbo Diesel.
Rebuilt with Navistar 506 block spring 2012
Special thanks to Racer55 and WhiteK2500 for their invaluable assistance!
Helping a friend: Duckies Longarm Quilting Oshawa / Durham Region!
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
mxz_583_1997
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when the HB blow do they make terrible knocking sound? i say this bc i had a old 92 grand am with a bad one the rubber was shot and at idel would sound like a bad rod but when you reved it up it would be quite something like that?
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1998 k2500 4x4 reg cab long box 6.5 TD Lubrication Specialists oil lines,Transmission lines replaced with Hydraulic lines,pmd mounted on heat sink in bumper, boost and egt gauges, home made TM,New heads May 2012,ARP head studs home made wiring harness all soldered greased and shrink tubed 8 ft arctic HD plow 383000 km on body 410000km on motor from my 1994
1998 k2500 Z71 ext cab 6.5 TD,stock exhaust,muffler delete soot trap gutted,4:10 gears,grey standyne pmd in front bumper,343000km,Lubrication Specialists oil lines,tranny temp,boost,EGT,fuel pressure gauges
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Old 06-06-2012, 04:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
57diesel
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Im going to be waiting for the replies on this one, I just noticed a odd sound on my 5.7 diesel and didn't think to look at the balancer. Thinking about it now my 6.5 makes a odd clank the first second it starts but then is good. I looked at it when I bought it and it looked good them but I guess I should look again.

__________________
98 Burb K25 4.10's 250K miles, new to me, pretty clean and stock.
95 Burb K25 3.73's CRASHED 250K miles, looks to have been rebuilt at least once, stock, bad rust, DE exhaust w/walker muffler, 8' western plow.
81 Buick Riviera GAVE AWAY with the infamous Olds 5.7 diesel possibly still going strong.
15 VW Golf wagon, TDI. Did the buyback on my 13 Jetta TDI wagon so it was basically a trade up.
96 Burb K25 3.42's SOLD at 340K miles, told it was all original, close race between engine wearing out or body completely rust out.
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