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Old 03-29-2008, 10:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
powerchallenged6.5
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Top Post Battery Cable Conversion

I have just installed two new top/side (dual) post batteries. Currently I am using the side posts but want to convert to top posts. I have access to scrap welding cable from 2 gauge all the way up to 4/0 and I plan on replacing all the the cables with a bigger gauge. My question is: how have people who have made this swap handled the positive cable junction on the passenger side battery? 1) Use the top post for the cable that runs to the starter and use the side post to hook up the cable from the drivers side battery? 2) Use the side post for the starter cable and use the top post for the cable from the drivers side battery or 3) Tie the cable from the drivers side battery AND the starter cable together in one lug and use the top post? I have my opinion, but I will keep to myself for now.

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Old 03-29-2008, 10:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i used a heavy duty amplifier terminal. it had a 2 gauge/4 gauge/ and duage 10 gauge wire spots. i used one 10 gauge for the alternator wire the 4 gauge for the starter and the 2 gauge for the crossover cable.

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Old 03-29-2008, 10:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
powerchallenged6.5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamdave0887 View Post
i used a heavy duty amplifier terminal. it had a 2 gauge/4 gauge/ and duage 10 gauge wire spots. i used one 10 gauge for the alternator wire the 4 gauge for the starter and the 2 gauge for the crossover cable.
A picture is worth a thousand words-hint, hint
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Old 03-29-2008, 10:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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gonna send a sick man outside in the dark are ya? j/k give me a minute to find the camera and i'll go snap a picture.
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Old 03-29-2008, 11:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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here ya go. this is the "negative" terminal from the set. its a bit narrower where it clamps to the top post so i couldn't use it for the crossover. if you can use it let me know. you may be able to get it to fit on the postive side with some "persuasion". lol.
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Old 03-29-2008, 11:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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A method I have used many times on multiple battery setups and side post conversions with good results is as follows:

Acquire two sets of marine type top post to threaded stud terminals.

1. Cut cables to length and strip 2 inches of insulation from the ends.
2. Find copper tubing which will just fit over the uninsulated wire and cut in 2 inch pieces.
3. Slide tubing over wire ends and hammer or press 1 inch of the end flat to form the terminal, then solder with a propane torch.
4. Drill hole in flattened end to fit threaded stud terminals. Put terninal in vise to do this as the drill will try to hang in the copper and wrap the cable around your hand (been there, done that!).
5. Connect terminals to cables as required.

This type connection is about as low in resistance as you can get and is very easy to clean and maintain. DO NOT use the "repair" type terminals that connect to the cables with a strap and bolts. They are junk for a high current application. If you can feel heat at the connection you are losing voltage. Just some food for thought!
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Old 03-29-2008, 11:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Great idea, like Power said, picture please.

I have seen what Dave is doing, you can buy those at regular electronic store like Bestbuy or CC.
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Old 03-30-2008, 10:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
powerchallenged6.5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonnasellit View Post
A method I have used many times on multiple battery setups and side post conversions with good results is as follows:

Acquire two sets of marine type top post to threaded stud terminals.

1. Cut cables to length and strip 2 inches of insulation from the ends.
2. Find copper tubing which will just fit over the uninsulated wire and cut in 2 inch pieces.
3. Slide tubing over wire ends and hammer or press 1 inch of the end flat to form the terminal, then solder with a propane torch.
4. Drill hole in flattened end to fit threaded stud terminals. Put terninal in vise to do this as the drill will try to hang in the copper and wrap the cable around your hand (been there, done that!).
5. Connect terminals to cables as required.

This type connection is about as low in resistance as you can get and is very easy to clean and maintain. DO NOT use the "repair" type terminals that connect to the cables with a strap and bolts. They are junk for a high current application. If you can feel heat at the connection you are losing voltage. Just some food for thought!
What type of copper tubing do you use? Would rigid copper pipe for domestic water work or is the wall too thick?
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Last edited by powerchallenged6.5; 03-30-2008 at 10:47 AM.
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Old 03-30-2008, 10:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamdave0887 View Post
here ya go. this is the "negative" terminal from the set. its a bit narrower where it clamps to the top post so i couldn't use it for the crossover. if you can use it let me know. you may be able to get it to fit on the postive side with some "persuasion". lol.
That is a gruesome-looking chunk of lead?, steel?
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Old 03-30-2008, 10:56 AM   #10 (permalink)
IamDave0887
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i think lead with platinum coating. the "negative" terminal just needs the spot where it connects to the battery to be widened a little bit. but yes its a "Directed Audio Essentials" connector. i got it form a local stereo shop. don't but from bestbuy or circuit city. their terminals and other wiring kits are junk. rockford isn't the same any more. they say their stuff gives better power and signal but i've found it doesn't change anything. it doesn't make things worse either so by no means am i saying they are "bad". this terminal is heavy as hell so i know its got lead in it.

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OIL - Christine

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