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Old 11-04-2006, 09:30 AM   #1 (permalink)
nickg
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How to change a flexplate

Mods feel free to use/modify my post , I was inspired by someones rant about the FAQ

How to change a flex plate, without pulling the tranny:

Not that long ago I broke a plate, mostly caused by the tranny to engine bolts being loose. I repaired it in a couple of hours.
Here is what I did,

1. Jacked up the front of the truck, high enough so that I could roll around under there on a creeper, don’t forget the jack stands!!

2. Removed the exhaust cross over, on mine the exhaust bolts came out easy, some may have issues if they have been in there for years.

3.Removed the torque converter cover (6 bolts)

4. Removed front and rear drive shafts

5. Unbolted Transfer Case shift arm from Transfer case (one nut) let it hang down

6. Unbolted tranny shifter bracket from tranny pan (2 bolts), unhooked cable end from tranny shifter arm

7. Unhook tranny cooler lines, mine has plastic retainers that pop off (slide back) and small “c” clip retainers that have to be plucked out. Older trucks just unbolt. you will leak some tranny fluid.

8. Unbolt tranny dip stick tube, and lift up to pull tube outta the tranny (1 nut) take note of all the grounds (don’t let any fall down, esp the body to engine ground, as you might forget one when re-installing), you might leak some tranny fluid

9. Unbolted tranny mount (4 bolts)

10. Jacked up tranny/TC assy and removed tranny mount.

11. Lower jack allow tranny/tc to hang down. This will make it easier to remove the remaining bell housing bolts later

12. Remove 2 lower bell housing bolts and replace them with 5-6inch bolts, do this BEFORE removing remaining bell housing bolts

13. I removed the small heat shield on the DRIVER side as I could not get the longer bell housing bolt in on the lower hole until I did, also the tranny “ear” will hit it if you don’t

14. Remove (6) torque converter bolts (15mm head) I used vice grips clamped on the flex plate to rotate the flex plate and hold it while loosening bolts (just let the vice grips ride up against the block/starter, while loosening or tightening)

15.Remove remaining bell housing bolts.

16. Jack up tranny on the pan, I used a block of wood between the pan and jack, jack high enough so that the pan will just side over the crossmember.

17. Push the tranny/TC assy back towards the rear of the truck and you will have 5-6inches of room to unbolt the flex plate from the crank (6 bolts) I used a pry bar to gently slide the tranny back.

Reassembly is just reverse order…

Things to note:
The flex plate has one torque converter bolt hole that is smaller than the rest, it is an alignment hole, make sure you put this one in first!! It will save you grief because if you don’t you’ll be loosening ones off that you already tightened to get the remaining bolts in. again use thread locker (I used blue)

Use thread locker on the crank to flexplate bolts and tighten to spec (66ft. lbs) with a torque wrench, otherwise you will be doing this again. I used red thread locker

The above process to a lot less time than dropping the tranny out and was completed in about 3hours with just one person.

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Had a 95 2500 E/C S/B "S" engine. 6in Pro Comp Susp Lift. 3in exhaust, Upper intake gutted. DIY extended PMD harness, Pillar mounted EGT/Pyro/Tranny. NEW ENGINE, & REBUILT TRANNY

Now Have a Dodge 2001 5.9 Cummins, 2500, 4x4 LB, Quad Cab....Edge EZ (60hp/180tq) 80 hp Jammer II injectors and a 4inch magnaflow exhaust...(more to come),

Last edited by OkDually; 08-07-2018 at 04:20 PM. Reason: adj tor spec
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Old 11-04-2006, 03:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
jifaire
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Outstanding, Nick! I hope I never have cause to need this information, but if I do, this stuff will be pure gold.

I especially like the "Things to note" part... I would NEVER have known about the bolt-hole size, and would have been just PO'd to have to re-do it.

Very well done!

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Old 11-04-2006, 04:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
Scrufdog
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while the tranny is pushed back, does it look like you'd have enough room to change a rear main seal?
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Old 11-07-2006, 08:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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rear main seal not likley
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Old 11-08-2006, 12:04 AM   #5 (permalink)
nickg
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Actually I believe you can IF you unbolt the retainer, I dont think there is room to drive the seal in. but if you had to you can drop the tranny out to get the room
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Had a 95 2500 E/C S/B "S" engine. 6in Pro Comp Susp Lift. 3in exhaust, Upper intake gutted. DIY extended PMD harness, Pillar mounted EGT/Pyro/Tranny. NEW ENGINE, & REBUILT TRANNY

Now Have a Dodge 2001 5.9 Cummins, 2500, 4x4 LB, Quad Cab....Edge EZ (60hp/180tq) 80 hp Jammer II injectors and a 4inch magnaflow exhaust...(more to come),
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