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Old 08-14-2019, 02:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
DeltaWolf
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Z-bar (Bellcrank) linkage issues

Ok, so fixed the leaks, filled the fluids, pulled out of the driveway to test everything, push the clutch in, *pop* the Bellcrank (Z-Bar) popped off the Bell housing pivot ball. I did replace the parts that were in there other thank the grease, was planning on doing that after taking it down the street 1/8 mile turning around. The parts list I used was the one from Classicparts.com (Classic parts of American) as they are right down the road.



I just do not see how the grease is suppose to be held in by the pivot ball on the bell housing side. also there is some play side to side as I assume that is for frame/engine/transmission flex.



Anyone else experience the z bar popping out of place when the clutch is pressed in?

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Old 08-14-2019, 08:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
Bigboytoys
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It's been a while since I have had a Z bar linkage apart but memory says it just flows grease to each side a bit, and that's it. What ever leaks out, leaks out.


As for it popping apart I would look at your motor, the trany mounts & the cab mounts cause there has to be enough flex to get it to seperate.




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Old 08-14-2019, 10:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
legendman
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I remember on my K20 there where these felt like pieces that I guess would keep the bad stuff out.
Pic I stole off the net


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What your saying happened, should never be able to happen.
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I put a chevrolet tailgate on my last truck and it started acting like a girl...love me, need me, want me pay attention to me. Took it off and put the GMC back on (fixed the latch) and it went back to being the same old dirty bastard it used to be
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1990 C1500 5.7 700r4 Short stepside
1999 Chevrolet K2500 5.7L Auto
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Do yourself a favor and read the 6.2 Diesel Student Training Manual ... lots of good info...it's in PDF format located here >> PDF Manuals

Last edited by legendman; 08-14-2019 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 08-15-2019, 02:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
DeltaWolf
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Originally Posted by Bigboytoys View Post
As for it popping apart I would look at your motor, the trany mounts & the cab mounts cause there has to be enough flex to get it to seperate.



I think you miss understood the last part, the Z bar pops out of place when you press on the clutch.



Anyone know if GM used different clutch forks? I am wondering if my 1 inch off set from where the Zbar and adjustment is because I was sold the wrong shift fork and it is an Inch shorter than the one I need. I think that might be part of my problem
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Old 08-15-2019, 05:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
Bigboytoys
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No I got that part.


If the motor or trans mounts are hooped the engine can move enough to pop the Z bar apart.


If those are good maybe the engine side of the mount is bent.


As for too short of a fork, could be but doubt it cause I think even the hydraulic ones are the same. A quick rockauto part number search over a coupla years will tell you.



The other half is even if the fork is too short, the z bar should never fall apart. I would climb under and get someone else to press the clutch and see whats happening.


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90 Burb 1500 Silverado 4x4, 6.x in the shop, ATS Turbo on the bench . Open plenum intake. 700 R4 Now Rebuilt + 241, 10,000lb Trany Cooler With 10in pusher Fan and gauge. 8,000 LB Warn Multi Mount. TCC lock up control, 60 + 14b 4" Lift and 285 16's. ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Quote:
Originally Posted by happypunch View Post
it would be nice if it could deflect a deer or a prius...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Livelli View Post
Mine ate about 6ft of paper towel once. It idled funny for a minute, then let out one big black firey fart and smoothed right out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManyStepsKY View Post
My being able to set at the computer and type is evidence that my wife has not cut off both my arms and used them to beat me into a coma, so no, I did not buy it!
Post up pics of your carnage!!!! Timing Click Here
To bleed or find an air leak https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/8492425-post11.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...leak-6-2l.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...ht-turn-3.html
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Old 08-15-2019, 11:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
DeltaWolf
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I get what you are saying now, I am gonna look at the motor mounts as I did have the transmission out for a long time and part of the time the motor support fell when I was away on business. How hard is it to change the motor mounts on the old 6.2's?
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Old 08-16-2019, 02:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
Bigboytoys
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Smidge worse than a SBC but not bad.



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90 Burb 1500 Silverado 4x4, 6.x in the shop, ATS Turbo on the bench . Open plenum intake. 700 R4 Now Rebuilt + 241, 10,000lb Trany Cooler With 10in pusher Fan and gauge. 8,000 LB Warn Multi Mount. TCC lock up control, 60 + 14b 4" Lift and 285 16's. ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Quote:
Originally Posted by happypunch View Post
it would be nice if it could deflect a deer or a prius...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Livelli View Post
Mine ate about 6ft of paper towel once. It idled funny for a minute, then let out one big black firey fart and smoothed right out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManyStepsKY View Post
My being able to set at the computer and type is evidence that my wife has not cut off both my arms and used them to beat me into a coma, so no, I did not buy it!
Post up pics of your carnage!!!! Timing Click Here
To bleed or find an air leak https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/8492425-post11.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...leak-6-2l.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...ht-turn-3.html
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Old 08-16-2019, 02:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
DeltaWolf
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well I think for now I will just space it out, I will go to the Army post nearby when I get a chance that have lifts and what not to see better lol
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Old 08-20-2019, 04:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
juanfo
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Changing motor mounts is easy when everything lines up and the bolts slide right in like butter. Otherwise just pull one side of the frame with a ratchet strap, the other side of the frame strapped to another truck, have them pull in different directions and then wedge a giant pry bar between the engine and frame and adjust spacing and strap tension accordingly until the bolt fits.
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Old 08-21-2019, 08:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
highdesertrange
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something ain't right if it is coming a-part. are you sure you got all the right parts? on mine there is no way to remove it unless you unbolt the frame bracket. yes my frame mount bolts on and is not riveted as my truck used to be an auto. the frame had the holes but no bracket so I bolted one on. highdesertranger

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