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Old 04-29-2019, 08:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
suburbangreaser
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Oil pan blues

Ugh ok.. Hi. So I replaced my stock oil pan in December due to the front lip being bent and leaking. I bought a Doorman pan which now seems to have been a mistake.

This pan has been plaguing me with a rear leak. I just tried a new pan gasket(felpro). With no success. It leaks worse. This time I did not use any gasket goo to install. I secured gasket to pan with zip ties, which by the way worked great. The gasket seated all the way around great.

So is the pan just garbage, or the felpro gasket. I really do not want to goop the **** out of it to hopefully hinder the leaking. I know this will ultimately not solve the issue.

1985 k2500 Sierra classic..

Thanks in advance.

Sincerely
Frustrated

P.s there is a light leak in front also. Could the timing cover be wack? I also replaced the timing cover/crankshaft seal which seams to have fixed the major front leakage. I even replaced with a new oil filler cap, oil cooler lines, and, CDR valve.

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Old 04-29-2019, 08:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
sctrailrider
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Go to the parts store and purchase a calking tube of "the right stuff" by permatex.



remove the pan, clean both block & pan very well and let what oil drip away as long as you can.



When your ready, lay a 3/8 wide thick bead of sealant on the BLOCK and leave it alone for 30 minutes while you do the same to the pan, let that sit 30 minutes. let it firm up and get stiff, gently put the pan against the block and giggle it a little, DON"T mash it tight against the block, install bolts and again do not tighten them, just finger tight.. you don't want to mash all the sealant out.



Let that sit over night to cure, then snug the bolts, still don't try to mash the sealant out, snug is all you need...

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Last edited by sctrailrider; 04-29-2019 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 04-29-2019, 09:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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last year I put a new pan on my truck (don't remember the brand) and it leaked worse also. This year I redid it and so far (about 600 miles) it don't leak. I wiped everything off, on the block I used aviation gasket maker (sticky brown stuff) and then on the pan I laid a decent bead of black silicone. On the rubber that went on the rear main cap I put a decent amount of silicone under the rubber and then globed it on the pan side. Where the timing cover and engine meet I laid a small bead of silicone there also. I then put the pan up and finger tightened the bolts, just so the silicone was barely starting to squeeze out the side. I then let that sit for a good hour and then went over all the bolts with a 1/4" ratchet and snugged them down good.
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Old 04-29-2019, 09:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
suburbangreaser
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Thanks both of you guys. Clarify are you not using a store bought gasket at all? Or is this on top of using a gasket?
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Old 04-30-2019, 01:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Also I've read that the 6.2Ltr. Holds 7 quarts of oil including a new filter? Is this true. It seems like it should be more. The dipstick tube does not seat the same as with the original GM pan. With 7 quarts it reads a bit below under a quart. This seems lower than how far the tube is off.

Thanks again...
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Old 04-30-2019, 05:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suburbangreaser View Post
Thanks both of you guys. Clarify are you not using a store bought gasket at all? Or is this on top of using a gasket?

no gasket....the instructions also apply to valve covers...
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Old 04-30-2019, 06:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
suburbangreaser
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Thanx much Sctrailrider.

Are you talking about the 90 minute adhesive or the 1 minute "the right stuff"?

Thanx much
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Old 04-30-2019, 08:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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the name of it is 'the right stuff" it's costly but it is the best thin made and the factory does it the same way, no gaskets....
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Old 05-01-2019, 06:13 AM   #9 (permalink)
Monka
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Correct, it's a black tube that says (the right stuff)
I dropped my pan and as stated, no gasket.
Clean WELL...
Then caulk block and then pan.
Hand tight bolts, wait a night then tighten to proper tork , dont over tighten.
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Old 05-01-2019, 01:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
suburbangreaser
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Here are the two different ones I have found. 90 minute(right image) or 1 minute(left image). Photos attached.

Is there a third type?

So just a straight bead, or in between/ around bolt holes? On package it says around all bolt holes.

I just want to make sure I do it correctly. It seems like little room for error with this stuff.

Thanks to all...

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