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Old 09-06-2017, 07:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
trbon8r
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J code intake install with Banks turbo?

Hello. I've got a '91 6.2 Suburban. Are there install instructions on how to install a J code intake manifold on my truck? By this I mean hoses that get disconnected to remove the EGR, anything that needs blocked off, or modified etc.? Anyone know the torque specs for the manifold?

Also will the J code intake interfere in any way with bolting on a Banks turbo kit designed for the factory C code manifold? Just want to make sure before I get too deep into this. Thanks for helping!

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Old 09-06-2017, 09:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There are different manifold gaskets. The J Code gasket blocks off those holes.

I have a Banks system on a J code intake and it works just fine.

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Old 09-06-2017, 11:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes .... do go and get a J code cause that isn't even a question IMO!!!

C code ... never heard of her ....


There are 2 different kinds though, 1 is divided and 1 is open. I personally like the open one when turboing. Some say it looses a bit in the low to mid but I think there is no difference.

Now I do have to caution you when shopping cause there is a hummer intake that looks the same buuuut the air cleaner studs are clocked 90 degree's differently and the overall hieght is lower which makes you make a spacer. The hummer intake works NA but I believe it's a sealing nightmare when turbo'd.

Open



Divided next to a rrreeeggg c code .... covered in twiky. I call it twinky cause the ERG skuzz is as good for your engine as a twinky is to you ...



Hummer

s-l1000.jpg

with custom made spacer











You could, just run the ... uhhh ... c code .... but you would be giving up a good pile of power.

On to the gaskets, yes, the J codes are different but when using the J code intake either will work cause there is no EGR port on the intake any way so there is no flow. There would be a smidge of heat difference but I doubt it would ever add up to any power difference.

Torque spec is 31 lb and here is the pattern.

0900c1528008ee91.jpg

And FLOG take notes, pic's .... what ever ya gata do to get all the studs, bolts and injector line clamps back in place for the intake the right way cause that is a deeply guarded secret around here and we charge for that info ....

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it would be nice if it could deflect a deer or a prius...
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Originally Posted by Livelli View Post
Mine ate about 6ft of paper towel once. It idled funny for a minute, then let out one big black firey fart and smoothed right out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManyStepsKY View Post
My being able to set at the computer and type is evidence that my wife has not cut off both my arms and used them to beat me into a coma, so no, I did not buy it!
Post up pics of your carnage!!!! and timing ....Click Here
To bleed or find an air leak, simply, here’s a few different ways..
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/8492425-post11.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...leak-6-2l.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...ht-turn-3.html
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Old 09-07-2017, 10:52 AM   #4 (permalink)
turbonator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigboytoys View Post
Yes .... do go and get a J code cause that isn't even a question IMO!!!

C code ... never heard of her ....


There are 2 different kinds though, 1 is divided and 1 is open. I personally like the open one when turboing. Some say it looses a bit in the low to mid but I think there is no difference.

Now I do have to caution you when shopping cause there is a hummer intake that looks the same buuuut the air cleaner studs are clocked 90 degree's differently and the overall hieght is lower which makes you make a spacer. The hummer intake works NA but I believe it's a sealing nightmare when turbo'd.

Open



Divided next to a rrreeeggg c code .... covered in twiky. I call it twinky cause the ERG skuzz is as good for your engine as a twinky is to you ...



Hummer

Attachment 556266

with custom made spacer











You could, just run the ... uhhh ... c code .... but you would be giving up a good pile of power.

On to the gaskets, yes, the J codes are different but when using the J code intake either will work cause there is no EGR port on the intake any way so there is no flow. There would be a smidge of heat difference but I doubt it would ever add up to any power difference.

Torque spec is 31 lb and here is the pattern.

Attachment 556258

And FLOG take notes, pic's .... what ever ya gata do to get all the studs, bolts and injector line clamps back in place for the intake the right way cause that is a deeply guarded secret around here and we charge for that info ....


Great post, definitely FAQ worthy....LOL....
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Last edited by turbonator; 09-07-2017 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
trbon8r
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Wow thanks for all the great information!!! I already have a J code intake I purchased. I was watching some YouTube videos and it appears there may be two different size fittings on the manifold for the CDR valve? My truck is currently about 150 miles away and I can't look at it in person right now. This video I found explains what I'm talking about. Just wondering if I might run into this problem and if so what to expect?


Pictures of my J Code intake.
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File Type: jpg IMG_0754.jpg (86.8 KB, 8 views)
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
trbon8r
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Another picture.......

Needs cleaned up, degreased and painted.
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File Type: jpg IMG_0755.jpg (62.5 KB, 9 views)

Last edited by trbon8r; 09-07-2017 at 06:58 PM.
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Old 09-07-2017, 08:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbonator View Post
Great post, definitely FAQ worthy....LOL....
Thank you very much!!

Just passing on what I know to those who ask. As for a FAQ post, IDK, haven't seen a MOD here for a while .... ... maybe cause we are a calm, nice, in basic control of our facilities non pirotzky kinda lil page in a huge diesel forum not in need of knuckle rappin' ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by trbon8r View Post
Wow thanks for all the great information!!! I already have a J code intake I purchased. I was watching some YouTube videos and it appears there may be two different size fittings on the manifold for the CDR valve? My truck is currently about 150 miles away and I can't look at it in person right now. This video I found explains what I'm talking about. Just wondering if I might run into this problem and if so what to expect?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MgCSwdhEWpk

Pictures of my J Code intake.
Yup, daz deh J code ya need so your already in next week and we're playing catch up. Go put r together!!


Mhhhh .... even if the fittings are different, I have faith you can sort it out, you got this far ....

__________________
90 Burb 1500 Silverado 4x4, 6.x in the shop, ATS Turbo on the bench . Open plenum intake. 700 R4 Now Rebuilt + 241, 10,000lb Trany Cooler With 10in pusher Fan and gauge. 8,000 LB Warn Multi Mount. TCC lock up control, 60 + 14b 4" Lift and 285 16's. ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Quote:
Originally Posted by happypunch View Post
it would be nice if it could deflect a deer or a prius...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Livelli View Post
Mine ate about 6ft of paper towel once. It idled funny for a minute, then let out one big black firey fart and smoothed right out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManyStepsKY View Post
My being able to set at the computer and type is evidence that my wife has not cut off both my arms and used them to beat me into a coma, so no, I did not buy it!
Post up pics of your carnage!!!! and timing ....Click Here
To bleed or find an air leak, simply, here’s a few different ways..
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/8492425-post11.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...leak-6-2l.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...ht-turn-3.html
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Old 09-07-2017, 09:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigboytoys View Post
Thank you very much!!

Just passing on what I know to those who ask. As for a FAQ post, IDK, haven't seen a MOD here for a while .... ... maybe cause we are a calm, nice, in basic control of our facilities non pirotzky kinda lil page in a huge diesel forum not in need of knuckle rappin' ....



Yup, daz deh J code ya need so your already in next week and we're playing catch up. Go put r together!!


Mhhhh .... even if the fittings are different, I have faith you can sort it out, you got this far ....

Added J Code Information post link to 6.2L FAQ
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Old 09-07-2017, 09:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
Bigboytoys
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Thank you sir!!!

Go forth and diesel on ....

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90 Burb 1500 Silverado 4x4, 6.x in the shop, ATS Turbo on the bench . Open plenum intake. 700 R4 Now Rebuilt + 241, 10,000lb Trany Cooler With 10in pusher Fan and gauge. 8,000 LB Warn Multi Mount. TCC lock up control, 60 + 14b 4" Lift and 285 16's. ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Quote:
Originally Posted by happypunch View Post
it would be nice if it could deflect a deer or a prius...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Livelli View Post
Mine ate about 6ft of paper towel once. It idled funny for a minute, then let out one big black firey fart and smoothed right out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManyStepsKY View Post
My being able to set at the computer and type is evidence that my wife has not cut off both my arms and used them to beat me into a coma, so no, I did not buy it!
Post up pics of your carnage!!!! and timing ....Click Here
To bleed or find an air leak, simply, here’s a few different ways..
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/8492425-post11.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...leak-6-2l.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...ht-turn-3.html
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Old 09-08-2017, 09:56 AM   #10 (permalink)
boneheaddoctor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trbon8r View Post
Wow thanks for all the great information!!! I already have a J code intake I purchased. I was watching some YouTube videos and it appears there may be two different size fittings on the manifold for the CDR valve? My truck is currently about 150 miles away and I can't look at it in person right now. This video I found explains what I'm talking about. Just wondering if I might run into this problem and if so what to expect?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MgCSwdhEWpk

Pictures of my J Code intake.
Major point nobody touched on.

You have to plug those fittings on the manifold anyway....with a turbo its going to be under pressure, the Banks kit has the CDR plumb into the air cleaner box pre-turbo.

What I did is drill through those fittings, and put a screw through it as an anchor, put tape on the inside (after degreezing it with brake cleaner), stood it up on end and filled one sides fitting with J B Weld, when that set up I flipped it the other way and filled the other sides in......removed the tape after it set up and let it cure before putting on truck.

There are other ways to do it, just as long as they are sealed off and will take the boost and temperature.

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Last edited by boneheaddoctor; 09-08-2017 at 09:59 AM.
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