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Old 10-28-2015, 06:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
dpom
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6.2l fuel filter housing questions

So i was finishing up my heater core replacement, and after putting everything back together, I snapped a few pictures of some things that

seemed out of place and I don't know where they go, what they do, and if I need new ones.

One is a picture of the top left of the fuel filter housing, open inlet with nothing on it. What should go on it?

Second is picture of a hose coming out of bottom of fuel filter housing, possibly it connects to the top of the housing on the vacant inlet?

Third are pics of a sensor hanging out new the fuel filter housing, no idea what it is, where it goes, and if I need a new one.

Any help? I am new to the 6.2l engine. This is on a 1990 Chevy Blazer 1500 Silverado with A/C.

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File Type: jpg IMG_0351.jpg (60.3 KB, 4 views)
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
Freddyack
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The "open inlet" in the first picture is for the air bleed.

on pictures 2 & 3

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Old 10-28-2015, 08:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Someone will know. I know the top is the air bleed as stated by the Lead moderator I think the bottom hose is the drain. The wire connector looks like the spade terminal is still inside the plug or something. My 91 Suburban has that model 80 box filter but i dont know much about it and ive never changed it
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my guess would be shocks
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Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.

Last edited by JCDiesel; 10-28-2015 at 08:54 PM.
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Old 10-29-2015, 01:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
Freddyack
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I know the top is the air bleed as stated by the Lead moderator
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Old 10-29-2015, 02:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Pic 1 air bleed, mess maker... put a piece of hose on it when you need to bleed air out or you'll coat the passenger side of your engine compartment if fuel.

Pic 2 water drain, don't connect 1 & 2 together. Put a bottle underneath it and open the knob till fuel stops coming out, engine off BTW....

Pic 3 & 4 Maybe the restriction switch wiring has been ripped out, #13 ....



...cause I see the fuel heater plug and the water sensor.
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Mine ate about 6ft of paper towel once. It idled funny for a minute, then let out one big black firey fart and smoothed right out.
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My being able to set at the computer and type is evidence that my wife has not cut off both my arms and used them to beat me into a coma, so no, I did not buy it!
Post up pics of your carnage!!!! Timing Click Here
To bleed or find an air leak https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/8492425-post11.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...leak-6-2l.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...ht-turn-3.html
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Old 10-29-2015, 11:58 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Is there a write up on bleeding air from the system?

I plan to short loop some diesel injector cleaner soon so I guess I will be bleeding air out at the end of that process.

The sensor is coming out of a wiring harness much lower than the fuel filter, so I don't think it is #13 restriction switch, it comes out right over top of the exhaust manifold.

The only thing not working on the truck is the cruise control, not sure if it is related to that, doesn't seem to reach anything up near the cruise control items.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigboytoys View Post
Pic 1 air bleed, mess maker... put a piece of hose on it when you need to bleed air out or you'll coat the passenger side of your engine compartment if fuel.

Pic 2 water drain, don't connect 1 & 2 together. Put a bottle underneath it and open the knob till fuel stops coming out, engine off BTW....

Pic 3 & 4 Maybe the restriction switch wiring has been ripped out, #13 ....



...cause I see the fuel heater plug and the water sensor.
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Old 10-29-2015, 12:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If you have the owners manual there is actually instructions with pictures. You just open the top bleed valve and crank on the motor a few times till fuel comes out and no air. Might go quicker if you pull the pink sos wire on the ip. Rest the starter so it doesnt get too hot. That wire may go to the temp sensor at the rear of the head near the firewall then. This for your cold advance.
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81 Riviera 5.7 Donor vehicle for The 82 Park Ave Compliments of 57Diesel
82 C10 2WD 6.2 Parts Truck
91 Suburban 2500 4x4 6.2 Bad Transmission
85 Cadillac Deville factory 4.3 Oldsmobile Diesel
91 GMC Sierra K1500 6.2 NA Bad Transmission
94 K3500 CC DRW 6.5TD All the normal stuff done. DE exhaust Custom Parker Racor Rust free beauty
Quote:
Originally Posted by smackzed View Post
my guess would be shocks
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpacalips View Post
Even the guys who own them aren't 5.7 guys.

Last edited by JCDiesel; 10-29-2015 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 10-29-2015, 02:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
Bigboytoys
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Maybe look for this sensor, passenger side rear of the head.



Here's a good read on bleeding the fuel system...

Need foolproof instructions on changing fuel filters
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happypunch View Post
it would be nice if it could deflect a deer or a prius...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Livelli View Post
Mine ate about 6ft of paper towel once. It idled funny for a minute, then let out one big black firey fart and smoothed right out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManyStepsKY View Post
My being able to set at the computer and type is evidence that my wife has not cut off both my arms and used them to beat me into a coma, so no, I did not buy it!
Post up pics of your carnage!!!! Timing Click Here
To bleed or find an air leak https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/8492425-post11.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...leak-6-2l.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...ht-turn-3.html
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Old 10-30-2015, 11:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
dpom
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Wow, that image was very pixelated, only 67kb. I can't see anything in that picture other than colors.

I figured out that the wire/sensor was the cold idle temp sensor, and no one in Huntsville had one in stock, $69 from O'reilly's next day, or $120 same day from Napa. I went with same day since it is going to rain this weekend. I called the GM dealer, they could not even give me a part number, and never called me back. Unbelieveable!

Everything is all back together, but now I can not get the radiator cap off to put new coolant in. I tried to pry it, but I am afraid of going too hard and breaking something. Why would the radiator cap be so hard to get off?
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Old 10-30-2015, 11:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpom View Post
Wow, that image was very pixelated, only 67kb. I can't see anything in that picture other than colors.
Because its a thumbnail. He was telling you to look for a switch that looked like this.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dpom View Post
Everything is all back together, but now I can not get the radiator cap off to put new coolant in. I tried to pry it, but I am afraid of going too hard and breaking something. Why would the radiator cap be so hard to get off?
Because someone else tried to pry on it. Its push down and turn only. If it doesn't release, something is bent. More than likely, it wont push down far enough.

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well to make your pump retarded, you could let it hang out with me for a day
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Diaric wins thread derailment......
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Yeah Diaric, I gotta say, I'm afraid I'm going to have to give you an official warning on that.
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