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Old 12-18-2013, 10:25 AM   #1 (permalink)
ASPHALTVICTORY
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what connects the bed floor to the body? (rot/replace)

a few months back i there was an article in petersens 4x4 about a guy who replaced the bed floor on his step side k10 with a bolted on piece of heavy gauge steel (as in you could remove the floor) he did it all up in yellow with black bedliner.

my bed floor is rotting in the typical places and i just want to replace it with something that wont rust.

i want to make a one piece bed floor out of 1/4 aluminum but cant figure out how to attach it to the bed sides OR how to do this without the bed collapsing down onto the frame?

i have seen a toyota land cruiser with custom aluminum floors ect so im guessing it can be done

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Old 12-18-2013, 10:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
mccr
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Its a Jimmy? They are different than a p/u The p/u bolts in from the bottom side ,5/16 bolts all the way around. Jimmy , burb have some welds in places but bolts in the rest like a p/u. When you unbolt a bed floor in a p/u the cross ribs come with it , a jimmy or burb the front and rear are attached to the body.

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Old 12-18-2013, 11:05 AM   #3 (permalink)
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right its a jimmy so i could replace the welds with nuts and bolts? and calk all around the seams?

i would have to support the rest to the bed when removing the floor right?

i would go with replacement patch panels but theyr steel just as expensive as aluminum and i doubt the bed floor would look right after its welded in
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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You have no idea the of the work involved, its a massive job. and everything you touch will be rusted. Mccr is correct, a few bolts, but a ton of spot welds and seam sealer. To get a lot of stuff undone, will destroy a lot of mounting areas on your bed sides. Aluminium will also give you a major problem of dis-similar metal reaction, plus you can't weld it anywhere.
I'm trying to remember where I saw pics of rebuilding a floor with tube, channel and a custom pan. It was probably CK5 forum, but you have to pay to join to view pics.
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well to make your pump retarded, you could let it hang out with me for a day
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Yeah Diaric, I gotta say, I'm afraid I'm going to have to give you an official warning on that.
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:33 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Here's one I had saved. Its a shot of a guy that was building his own custom floor. Unfortunately, the only one I got.
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2001 VW TDI Jetta 4 door loaded 2001 VW TDI Golf 2 door swapped engine project
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well to make your pump retarded, you could let it hang out with me for a day
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Diaric wins thread derailment......
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Originally Posted by High Sierra 2500 View Post
Yeah Diaric, I gotta say, I'm afraid I'm going to have to give you an official warning on that.
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My Restoration Thread Click Here
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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mine is nowhere near that rusted that was the reason i bought it after looking at countless bondo and under body coating hide job trucks i found my jimmy. the tailgate support is still intact along with the stringers under the bed floor no rot.
just the common where the wheel slings up road salt spots i tried fiberglassing it over last year but i half assed it and it didnt stick

as for the dissimilar metals the steel while exposed would get devoe green zinc primer devoe bar rust and devoethane as well as the aluminum and the seams dressed with 3M 5200 calk

the spots im worried about are where the tail lights are its rotting out in there to

im almost considering having the floor sand blasted and glassing the whole dam thing with 6oz matt and a gallon of west system then gel coating it
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:53 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Here's one I had saved. Its a shot of a guy that was building his own custom floor. Unfortunately, the only one I got.
i can see this would be a huge undertaking the kind not attempted on a daily driver

but i want to do it.

i think the saving grace with mine was the carpet and trim was long gone even the aluminum trim pieces that go on the threshold trap water and dirt and rot that area out
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Old 12-18-2013, 12:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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When I had my 81, I took a chunk of pick up bed and welded it over the rusted out areas. The grooves in the floor match in places. Mine wasn't ad either, till you started taking at apart. If you look close at some pics, you can see all the spot welds too take out.
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1987 6.2l Jimmy , being restored,4" lift, 35 mudders 1993 W350 5.9 , custom stretched cab, duelly flatdeck
2001 VW TDI Jetta 4 door loaded 2001 VW TDI Golf 2 door swapped engine project
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well to make your pump retarded, you could let it hang out with me for a day
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkstrong View Post
Diaric wins thread derailment......
Quote:
Originally Posted by High Sierra 2500 View Post
Yeah Diaric, I gotta say, I'm afraid I'm going to have to give you an official warning on that.
6.2 FAQ's AND ANSWERS Click Here
My Restoration Thread Click Here
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Old 12-18-2013, 12:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Patch it! Take your time, butt weld it and grind it up nice .
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Old 12-18-2013, 09:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diaric View Post
You have no idea the of the work involved, its a massive job. and everything you touch will be rusted. Mccr is correct, a few bolts, but a ton of spot welds and seam sealer. To get a lot of stuff undone, will destroy a lot of mounting areas on your bed sides. Aluminium will also give you a major problem of dis-similar metal reaction, plus you can't weld it anywhere.
I'm trying to remember where I saw pics of rebuilding a floor with tube, channel and a custom pan. It was probably CK5 forum, but you have to pay to join to view pics.
Wow! That's a lot of work.

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What your saying happened, should never be able to happen.
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I put a chevrolet tailgate on my last truck and it started acting like a girl...love me, need me, want me pay attention to me. Took it off and put the GMC back on (fixed the latch) and it went back to being the same old dirty bastard it used to be
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Do yourself a favor and read the 6.2 Diesel Student Training Manual ... lots of good info...it's in PDF format located here >> PDF Manuals
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