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Old 02-20-2013, 02:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
Soaper
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heater issues

in my van this is how the heater hose is hooked up.
heater hose come off the end of the crossover tube and the crossover tube is also connected to the water pump.

my heat effing sucks. sometimes it is warm but 82% of the time its cold. like the ac is on.
i backflushed and flushed the heater core for over an hour. previous owners messed something up and there were so much depoists it wasnt even funny
well did that and replaced the heater hoses and it started working good. but it went back to being crummy.
i really have no idea what i can do right now.
i just want HEAT. its a van so its like heating a effing house with just the front heater.

i dont know what else i can do or maybe theres a way to hook heater lines up differently to get better heat.

also when i flushed it the flow was AWESOME going through the core.
but when its hooked up and van running and radiator cap off its barely pushing any fluid through the heater core return into the radiator. its pushing but not as much as i think it should.
my 350 vans would have the return heater line gushing and hitting the otherside of the tank.

i dont know what i should do next? if anyone has any decent ideas ill do it just so i can get heat back.

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Old 02-20-2013, 02:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
turbovanman
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Basically you need one coming from the BEFORE the thermostat, then the outlet goes after the thermostat or the cool side. On my van, one goes to the crossover, the return goes to the rad.

Try running the heater hoses backwards if they are the same size.

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1984 G20 Diesel Get a Way Van, 6.2L turbo. Rebuilt 1989 700R4, 3.08 gears. Fluidamper, modified hummer headers, 2.5" mandrel Y-pipe to 3 inch single system, Hooker Max Flo muffler, 3 inch F350 mandrel bent tailpipe-passenger side exit, 6.5L turbo lower intake, 6.5 military IP-5149, Turbonator open faced injectors set to 2500 psi, HX35W with a 60x86mm cast wheel at 15psi, ARP studs, .010" head gaskets, bypass oil system, Dmax van fuel pump/filter combo, Aeromotive fuel pump. REMOTE MOUNT TURBO INSTALLED!!!! Burning hydraulic fluid, jet fuel, WMO.
2003 VW Wagon 2.0L TDI auto, silver, heavily modified-Wife's.
2004 VW Wagon TDI 5 speed-blue-also modified-Mine!

1989 Dodge Caravan ex daily driver, 2.5L TIII DOHC Turbo, GT35R, [email protected] mph.

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Old 02-20-2013, 03:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
Soaper
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going backwards wouldnt change anything...

theres gotta be somewhere else i can hook the IN line up besides the crossover... ill plug it off that doesnt bother me....
is there anywhere else on the block that maybe has a sensor i can remove and resetup? theres a sensor on the back passenger head that isnt hooked up. not sure if it hits a coolant passage or not....

just want my heat back. lol
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
ADAMSK20
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1st -is ur thermostat working?
no reason why getting it from the crossover would make it colder, if the motor is up to temp then the crossover is too. u flushed it and it had a lot of flow- then hooked it up and now u dont. ask ur self why, look for a blocked hose, port, valve, etc. what did u hook up when running that u did not while flushing- u should find ur answer.

also is ur vans hvac controlled by cables or by vacuum? if one of the doors in the heat box is not opening or closing u could have a problem there too.
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
turbovanman
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If the core is plugged going backwards can help.

Just looked at mine, at the crossover, one goes to the waterpump, the right side or passenger side goes to the core, so if you have this routed correctly, you have a bad thermostat, plugged core or leaking head gaskets.

I've soaked my minivan for years with CLR, works like a charm. Blow out, fill with CLR, let it sit for an hour, backflush. IF the core is weak, this can cause a leak so be warned.
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1984 G20 Diesel Get a Way Van, 6.2L turbo. Rebuilt 1989 700R4, 3.08 gears. Fluidamper, modified hummer headers, 2.5" mandrel Y-pipe to 3 inch single system, Hooker Max Flo muffler, 3 inch F350 mandrel bent tailpipe-passenger side exit, 6.5L turbo lower intake, 6.5 military IP-5149, Turbonator open faced injectors set to 2500 psi, HX35W with a 60x86mm cast wheel at 15psi, ARP studs, .010" head gaskets, bypass oil system, Dmax van fuel pump/filter combo, Aeromotive fuel pump. REMOTE MOUNT TURBO INSTALLED!!!! Burning hydraulic fluid, jet fuel, WMO.
2003 VW Wagon 2.0L TDI auto, silver, heavily modified-Wife's.
2004 VW Wagon TDI 5 speed-blue-also modified-Mine!

1989 Dodge Caravan ex daily driver, 2.5L TIII DOHC Turbo, GT35R, [email protected] mph.

2002 Gold Dmax 4 door, 2500HD 4x4-new camper/trailer hauler-minor mods and a small tow tune!

Last edited by turbovanman; 02-20-2013 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
Soaper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
If the core is plugged going backwards can help.

Just looked at mine, at the crossover, one goes to the waterpump, the right side or passenger side goes to the core, so if you have this routed correctly, you have a bad thermostat, plugged core or leaking head gaskets.

I've soaked my minivan for years with CLR, works like a charm. Blow out, fill with CLR, let it sit for an hour, backflush. .
whats a dead give away theres blown headgaskets?
i have noticed a loss of fluid but i am also leaking a tiny bit at the water pump.

my thermostat is new as of a couple weeks ago.
when im driving on the interstate and its this cold i can tell when it opens uip cause temp drops down then back up ... repeat.

pulled the hose to the core agian and when i hook a garden hose up it flows good.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
turbovanman
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So the temp cycles hot/cold? What brand of thermostat? We've all found out that unless you run OE, you'll have issues. IF you have flow coming out of the core, then you have an engine temp issue, plugged core. Is the heater door correctly adjusted?

Head gaskets usually show up as air in the system, gurgling noises, loss of coolant you can't explain, bubbling out of the rad when you shut the van off, white smoke, engine missing.
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1984 G20 Diesel Get a Way Van, 6.2L turbo. Rebuilt 1989 700R4, 3.08 gears. Fluidamper, modified hummer headers, 2.5" mandrel Y-pipe to 3 inch single system, Hooker Max Flo muffler, 3 inch F350 mandrel bent tailpipe-passenger side exit, 6.5L turbo lower intake, 6.5 military IP-5149, Turbonator open faced injectors set to 2500 psi, HX35W with a 60x86mm cast wheel at 15psi, ARP studs, .010" head gaskets, bypass oil system, Dmax van fuel pump/filter combo, Aeromotive fuel pump. REMOTE MOUNT TURBO INSTALLED!!!! Burning hydraulic fluid, jet fuel, WMO.
2003 VW Wagon 2.0L TDI auto, silver, heavily modified-Wife's.
2004 VW Wagon TDI 5 speed-blue-also modified-Mine!

1989 Dodge Caravan ex daily driver, 2.5L TIII DOHC Turbo, GT35R, [email protected] mph.

2002 Gold Dmax 4 door, 2500HD 4x4-new camper/trailer hauler-minor mods and a small tow tune!
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
Trios
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
Head gaskets usually show up as air in the system, gurgling noises, loss of coolant you can't explain, bubbling out of the rad when you shut the van off, white smoke, engine missing...
...oil in coolant, coolant in oil.
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Trios is right.
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x2 Trios is right lol
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
Soaper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovanman View Post
So the temp cycles hot/cold? What brand of thermostat? We've all found out that unless you run OE, you'll have issues. IF you have flow coming out of the core, then you have an engine temp issue, plugged core. Is the heater door correctly adjusted?

Head gaskets usually show up as air in the system, gurgling noises, loss of coolant you can't explain, bubbling out of the rad when you shut the van off, white smoke, engine missing.

to other posted no oil in water... no water in oil.

its a GM thermostat. so ac delco

not sure how to adjust door?
and i have no vacuum anywhere... the lines are coming from the vacuum pump and then nothing. there was a spider web of vacuum lines laying on the engine and i ripped them off cause they didnt hook to anything.

yes i have flow coming out of the core.
i unplugged the IN and had it outside the van while running and it streams awesome. enough to where you think itd give you heat.
but when im driving in these 20mph areas idling pretty much... it blows cold as **** unless i punch it then i get heat for a few moments.


engine doesnt miss... and no other symptoms but it does puff white smoke when i start in mornings.... well whiteish grey.

anywho....
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
Soaper
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Turbo man... can you take me a picture of your return line. heater core to radiator?


but im gonna go on this... my hour and 1/2 of flushing the heater core didnt do ****... lol
there mineral depoists must be alot IE former owners didnt take care of the cooling system.

i may take to a radiator shop and unhook the lines and let them do what they can do...

but ive narrowed it down to heater core. reason being?
when i unhook the IN line and run van it flows nice and constant and when i rev it shoots about 3=4 foot from the line.

when i rehooked that up and did the out line it was barely coming out. even when i revved it.

silly van...

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