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Old 10-10-2012, 09:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
JFrazier
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6.2 Glow Plug System Issues

Hello everyone,

I am new to the forum and I have some questions about diagnosing my father-in-laws 6.2L diesel glow plug system. The truck is a 82' Chevy Silverado 20. When he got the truck there were two manual switched that were suppose to override the glow plugs and fuel pump. Yesterday we replaced the Glow plug relay located on the drive side fender well. The only wires attached to the relay are the supply wire coming from the battery on the input post, the two wire running to the Glow Plug Controller on the output post and a two wire plug that plus in to the two spade connectors on the front side of the relay. One wire is red and black and the other is green. Once we replaced the Glow Plug relay all functions worked correctly and the truck started. We shut the truck off waited 10 minutes and tried to start again and there was nothing. The new relay didn't click as it did the first time therefore I believe what controls the relay is malfunctioning but I don't know what that is. I have power coming from the battery. When the ignition is switched on I have power on both of the wires in the plug on the front side of the relay. I have continuity from the outpost to the Glow Plug Controller. Anyone have any suggestions????


Last edited by JFrazier; 10-10-2012 at 10:05 AM. Reason: added information
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:13 AM   #2 (permalink)
Diaric
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theres a glow plug controller on the top rear of the drivers side head. the 82-84 controllers were flakey and died easily, the over ride was the easy fix.

it looks like this with a bunch of wires plugged in


edit BTW

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well to make your pump retarded, you could let it hang out with me for a day
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Last edited by Diaric; 10-10-2012 at 10:14 AM.
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
jdemaris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFrazier View Post
Yesterday we replaced the Glow plug relay located on the drive side fender well. The only wires attached to the relay are the supply wire coming from the battery on the input post, the two wire running to the Glow Plug Controller on the output post and a two wire plug that plus in to the two spade connectors on the front side of the relay. One wire is red and black and the other is green. Once we replaced the Glow Plug relay all functions worked correctly and the truck started. We shut the truck off waited 10 minutes and tried to start again and there was nothing.
Ford and GM used the same glow plug system live you've got in the first few years. Just a thermal-switch screwed into a coolant passage, and a high-amp relay. Simple and reliable. I've heard claims about them being trouble some - but not sure what to say to that?? I've got one GM 1982 and three GM 1983s with that original system and all are fine. I also have an 85 Ford with the same system that too has worked flawlessly and has over 200,000 miles on it.

I suggest you find out what your problem is before giving up on anything.
1982 through 1984 use the GM #4 glow-plug system. You need to chec the thermal controller that is screwed into the cylinder head.

In just the 1982s, there was a problem with one wire-connector gettting dirty and not-working on the controller. That because of a small hole in the harness-connector at #2 terminal. The fix is to clean the contacts and then seal that hole with RTV sealant.

1982s also had a diode-failure problem in the alternator that caused glow-plug problems.

On the thermal-controller . . .

Pin #1 with brown wire goes to the alternator. There must be NO power coming from the alternator to the pin when the engine is off. When it gets battery voltage - it disables the glow plugs, more-or-less. A leaky diode in the alternator stops the glow plugs from working.

Pin #2 - not used in 82

Pin #3 - blue wire gets battery voltage when IGN on.

Pin #4 - orange wire and dark-green wire - go to glow-plug relay. At relay they are twin-red wires.

Pin #5 - black wire goes to ground and Pin #6.

The thermal-controller has three functions - "pre-glow", "after-glow" and as "circuit breaker" mode. To test - turn the key on to IGN position. If the pre-glow circuit is working correctly - dashboard glow-light will cycle on and off as long as the key is "on" and engine is NOT running. If the glow plugs only cycle once and then stop - the system is in "circuit breaker" mode and the controller is "no good."

One more thing. Make sure no one has added a "glow plug inhibit" switch. This became standard in 1984 but was often added to older 82s and 83s.
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1987 V20 4WD Suburban 6.2 diesel, 1988 K5 Blazer 6.2 diesel, 700R4. 1989 GMC 3/4 ton, 4WD Suburban, 6.2 diesel, TH400 trans.
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
JFrazier
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JDEMARIS,

The thermal controller you mention is that the same part that Diaric listed above your post? Or is it something different?
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
jdemaris
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Originally Posted by JFrazier View Post
JDEMARIS,

The thermal controller you mention is that the same part that Diaric listed above your post? Or is it something different?
Same thing as he posted in the photo. It screws into a coolant passage. GM and Ford calls it a "thermal controller" as opposed to the newer system that started in 1985 that GM called an "electronic controller."
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1982 K10 PU 6.2 diesel,1983 (two) Blazers 6.2 diesel, TH400, 1983 K5 Blazer with 6.2 diesel, 4sp man. OD trans. and Chalet pop-up camper body.
1986 K5 Blazer 6.2 diesel, 700R4 trans.- with Halmark pop-up camper body.
1987 V20 4WD Suburban 6.2 diesel, 1988 K5 Blazer 6.2 diesel, 700R4. 1989 GMC 3/4 ton, 4WD Suburban, 6.2 diesel, TH400 trans.
1991 Suburban 4WD 6.2 diesel 700R4 trans.
1981 (two of them) Chevy Chevette with 1.8 diesel and 5 sp. trans.
1985 Isuzu P'UP 4WD pickup with 2.2 diesel
1991 (Two of them) Volkswagen Jetta 1.6 diesel
1985 Ford F250 4WD ex-cab, longbed, 6.9 diesel
1994 Ford F250 4WD ex-cab, longbed, 7.3 IDI turbodiesel.
1983 Mercedes 300D five-cylinder turbo-diesel
1992 Dodge D200 4WD Cummins turbo-diesel, intercooled with 5 spd Gertrag
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Maybe it's a simple as the temperature inhibit switch was warm enough not to let the GP's cycle or it's failing.

The inhibit switch turns off the GP's after the motor has warmed up, bout luke warm, and won't let the GP's cycle until the engine cools off to help the GP's live longer. The inhibit switch is in a PITA place, very rear of the passenger side head below the injector.

Simple to test, with a cold engine is there 12V to high idle solenoid or the cold advance on the IP, green wire that's T'd off at the IP, if not unplug the 2 pin connector from the inhibit switch and jump them together. Your GP's and high idle and the cold advance will be on all the time so this is just a test.

To replace the inhibit switch, drain 3 - 5 gallons of coolant, unplug the connector and unthread the switch, install new switch and refill coolant and plug in the connector.

Some have put in a by pass switch to give the engine a cycle of GP's to start when warm/hot but that's usually a sign of other problems, low compression, poor batteries and or starter, injector or IP issues, air leaks....
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
jdemaris
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Originally Posted by Bigboytoys View Post
Maybe it's a simple as the temperature inhibit switch was warm enough not to let the GP's cycle or it's failing.

Inhibit switch wasn't used in 82s and 83s. But there's always a chance somebody added one I guess.
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1982 K10 PU 6.2 diesel,1983 (two) Blazers 6.2 diesel, TH400, 1983 K5 Blazer with 6.2 diesel, 4sp man. OD trans. and Chalet pop-up camper body.
1986 K5 Blazer 6.2 diesel, 700R4 trans.- with Halmark pop-up camper body.
1987 V20 4WD Suburban 6.2 diesel, 1988 K5 Blazer 6.2 diesel, 700R4. 1989 GMC 3/4 ton, 4WD Suburban, 6.2 diesel, TH400 trans.
1991 Suburban 4WD 6.2 diesel 700R4 trans.
1981 (two of them) Chevy Chevette with 1.8 diesel and 5 sp. trans.
1985 Isuzu P'UP 4WD pickup with 2.2 diesel
1991 (Two of them) Volkswagen Jetta 1.6 diesel
1985 Ford F250 4WD ex-cab, longbed, 6.9 diesel
1994 Ford F250 4WD ex-cab, longbed, 7.3 IDI turbodiesel.
1983 Mercedes 300D five-cylinder turbo-diesel
1992 Dodge D200 4WD Cummins turbo-diesel, intercooled with 5 spd Gertrag
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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A switch for the fuel pump ? 82 should have been a mechanical LP so someone must have converted it. Make sure they used a decent lift pump rated for diesel engines and not some 30$ universal special. I personally like using the factory lift pump used on the 93 GMT 400 6.5TD. It was designed to work with a DB2 .
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:07 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdemaris View Post
Inhibit switch wasn't used in 82s and 83s. But there's always a chance somebody added one I guess.

Doh! Been spendin' too much time workin' on gassers and it's tossing out my diesel stuff.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happypunch View Post
it would be nice if it could deflect a deer or a prius...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Livelli View Post
Mine ate about 6ft of paper towel once. It idled funny for a minute, then let out one big black firey fart and smoothed right out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManyStepsKY View Post
My being able to set at the computer and type is evidence that my wife has not cut off both my arms and used them to beat me into a coma, so no, I did not buy it!
Post up pics of your carnage!!!! Timing Click Here
To bleed or find an air leak https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/8492425-post11.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...leak-6-2l.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...ht-turn-3.html
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesneights1 View Post
A switch for the fuel pump ? 82 should have been a mechanical LP so someone must have converted it. Make sure they used a decent lift pump rated for diesel engines and not some 30$ universal special. I personally like using the factory lift pump used on the 93 GMT 400 6.5TD. It was designed to work with a DB2 .
Lately i've found that the stock LPs for a 6.5, regardless of year are total **** for quality.

I've been through numerous of them, and will never purchase another again.

Over time the pressure output drops, and eventually the pumps just hammer away and move little to nothing for fuel flow and pressure.


I"ll be putting a walbro on the 96 after winter comes and goes, that is if the old girl doesn't rust to pieces first. She's getting long in the tooth body wise and does have a few spots in the frame that need touching up, but engine/trans wise it's still running like new. It'll be kept until it refuses to run anymore and fixing it isn't practical or cost effective.


The K-5 i have a Holley Blue pump and regulator on there now.

The pump check valve is bad, and i plan on putting on a Holley Black which is good for gas, alcohol, and methanol so i'm sure it'll take diesel just fine. That and rebuild the regulator and it should be good to go.

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