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-   -   air in fuel when making right turn. (https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/20-6-2l-diesel-engine/444896-air-fuel-when-making-right-turn.html)

smackzed 01-20-2012 09:28 PM

air in fuel when making right turn.
 
Just some research since I won't be able to take a real serious look at anything for a while.

When I make a hard right turn at low acceleration, I get a sudden increase in acceleration, just like air in the fuel. that is the only time it does it though. If I have to slow down after making the turn the idle is rough for a few secs then everything smooths out. It doesn't do it any other time. Doesn't make a lot of sense to me. During daylight tomorrow I'm going to try and crank the wheel and see if I can see anything but until I can spend some time on it that's all I;ll really be able to do.

Any help appreciated

Thanks
Sean

legendman 01-20-2012 11:40 PM

Maybe your cab is shifting on the frame and pulling on the throttle cable:D

Single or dual tanks?

Margot 01-20-2012 11:44 PM

Sounds like it could be a rubber line that is a little too short or not routed properly that shifts when turning. My 'burb did something very similar. I found out yesterday the line from the barbed outlet to the lift pump input was just barely long enough when the truck was sitting on level ground and when it rocked it would tug a bit on it (a failed worm clamp didn't help matters either).

smackzed 01-21-2012 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by legendman (Post 4491552)
Maybe your cab is shifting on the frame and pulling on the throttle cable:D

Single or dual tanks?

Single tank. But that's interesting. The cab is so rotted that i can feel it flexing when I go over bumps. The cab mounts on the DS are non existant. It does almost feel more like a pull on the throttle than air, although I do get the rough idle immediately after.

smackzed 01-21-2012 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Margot (Post 4491555)
Sounds like it could be a rubber line that is a little too short or not routed properly that shifts when turning. My 'burb did something very similar. I found out yesterday the line from the barbed outlet to the lift pump input was just barely long enough when the truck was sitting on level ground and when it rocked it would tug a bit on it (a failed worm clamp didn't help matters either).

That's what I'm thinking.I redid the fuel line from LP to IP so nothing is routed properly. that was well over a year ago though. I'll take a look at all the clamps since I'll have some daylight to work with today and tomorrow.

Thanks

IamDave0887 01-21-2012 08:50 AM

Does this only happen when the tank is below a certain level?

If so, it could be that the pickup tube has a hole in it due to rust.

Turn one way the fuel covers the hole, no apparent problems. Turnthe other way, no more fuel covering the hole, so the system sucks air.

That that would take time before you'd notice it at the IP. That air would have to go through all the lines, filter, hoses, IP etc, before you'd notice it.

I'm betting it's not that due to the second you turn you can feel/hear it.

smackzed 01-21-2012 09:03 AM

I do have that problem but my tank has to be very close to empty anyhow, less than an 1/8th. so it's not really an issue except sometimes my fuel gauge lies to me.

ASPHALTVICTORY 01-21-2012 09:24 AM

when my brakelight switch was broken/stuck i would take corners and the trans would upshift and downshift a couple of times going into the same corner/bumps on my way to work i replaced the switch and it didnt do it anymore
IDK if thats maby somthing your talking experencing :confused:

Diaric 01-21-2012 12:41 PM

is it only doing it in the cold or all the time?

smackzed 01-21-2012 06:33 PM

huh? it's winter, it's always cold. It's only done it a few times. Day before yesterday for the first time -15c, yesterday same and again today a little warmer. interestingly today it happened while reversing down a hill out of a driveway. Again at low speed while just beginning to accelerate. I'm beginning to think it is the cab flexing and pulling on the throttle cable.

I ended up working today so I didn't have time to look at anything, may be tomorrow

GMdiesels 01-22-2012 03:53 PM

Maybe the IP is starting to go?

smackzed 01-22-2012 07:20 PM

maybe? I installed a used IP that came out off my blown engine last year. No idea of age. It has plenty of power and starts fairly easy even in cold weather but the truck has been smoking some. I think the smoking is injectors tho since it's substantially more out of the DS than PS.

I don't know what to think. i tried to make it do it by making particularly sharp rights but I couldn't make it happen.

kbrew2001 02-01-2012 11:55 AM

Hi there a newbie to this site here. My experience with my 91 6.2 K2500 man 4 spd ext Cab w/ long bed and currently with 265,000 miles!!!, I found a few years back the same- making a turn and the engine would surge while at a lower speed. I found everything as it should be (hoses, lines, cable etc.) except the electric lift pump was out and the engine still started and ran fine. Although when starting cold it would smoke a blue/ gray for a few(5-15) seconds before clearing up. After replacing the electric lift pump problem went away. also verify the fuel relay. Good luck.

379detroit 02-01-2012 12:21 PM

just don't turn to the right ):h

smackzed 02-01-2012 06:58 PM

hmm tghat's interesting. I've done the lift pump test that I know of (mechanical pump) and it passes but I think I have a pump for an sbc rather than the 6.2

smackzed 02-13-2012 05:53 PM

So I'm finally going to have some time tomorrow to look at things. Here's an update so far.

Have had many difficult starts including 2 no starts. Once I got it towed and we thought it was bad fuel but I don't think so any more. The next time my mechanic came down the next day and after almost an hour of bleeding air we got it to start, with one start then die in the attempt.

I have a clear line on the return and there are very fine bubbles coming through. Not always but they are present. there is absolutely NO signs of a fuel leak anywhere. So this means what? It's after the fuel pump or before?? Maybe the fuel filter? There is no fuel in the valley and no sign of fuel at the throttle seals. I've tightened and re-tightened all the hose clamps and the fitting at the fuel pump. Also there is no fuel in the oil. The situation happens regardless of the amount of fuel in the tank. Although the 2 no starts were when the tank was quite a bit less than full although I added 40 litres/10 gallons , bringing the tank up to almost full and still had the no start situation.

Oh and i do have a very small fuel leak in the return system. In the steel line just above where the pass side injectors return into the main line. I don't think that could cause these problems though could it? I've had that leak for 2 years or so. It's always drained the IP return in the bottom 1/2 of the return but the top 1/2 stays full at least that was the case a couple years ago when i had the clear line on. I removed it quite a while ago because it was getting brittle. I just put it on again an hour ago or so so I'll have to see if the top 1/2 is draining now. If so could the siphon effect be doing that? I know lots of questions, lots of variables.

Tomorrow I'm going to pressurize the system. I'll also use some clear line most likely if that doesn't work. Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance

Sean

smackzed 02-14-2012 12:14 AM

Anyone feel free to comment. Anything before morning would help.

Margot 02-14-2012 08:51 AM

I had a similar thing. I ended up pressurizing the fuel system and finding 2 very small leaks, that didn't leak fuel, but let air in when sitting (enough to make starting after a day almost impossible).

turbonator 02-14-2012 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smackzed (Post 4512349)
Anyone feel free to comment. Anything before morning would help.

maybe your advance plunger shaft seal is pulling in air.. we have 2 pumps that do it, and we just did a high idle mod switch and it stopped doing it, and we are in the process of re-sealing a pump now... exactly the same problem, but we run an electric fuel pump, so there was less time to bleed it... although it did it just under load.....

smackzed 02-14-2012 04:48 PM

Well she started and stayed going yet today. After finding one leak and replacing that line I still had problems. Noticed fuel in the frame channel so bypassed all the steel line from lift pump to as close to the tank as I could get. Very little fuel came out of the steel line when I cut it. Put some clear line on and cranked it 4 or 5 times. Barely any fuel in the line. I'm going to try to get it started with a 5 gallon jerry can.

The really weird thing is that when I try to start it there is more air than fuel going through the return, but when it was running yesterday there was very little air in the return line.

this is really annoying.

smackzed 02-14-2012 05:50 PM

Meant to say it hasn't started and stayed going yet today.

Tried the jerry can. Maybe my lift pump is done because there's some fuel in the line but not much. And there's nothing at the fuel filter at all now. Interesting that the return line still has fuel in it. Getting dark now. Try again in the morning.

Did I say that this is really annoying.

turbonator 02-14-2012 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smackzed (Post 4512859)
Well she started and stayed going yet today. After finding one leak and replacing that line I still had problems. Noticed fuel in the frame channel so bypassed all the steel line from lift pump to as close to the tank as I could get. Very little fuel came out of the steel line when I cut it. Put some clear line on and cranked it 4 or 5 times. Barely any fuel in the line. I'm going to try to get it started with a 5 gallon jerry can.

The really weird thing is that when I try to start it there is more air than fuel going through the return, but when it was running yesterday there was very little air in the return line.

this is really annoying.

try unplugging your advance on the IP..... and maybe upgrade to a electric lift pump.... princess sells them for like 70.00..... and redo all the lines in good rubber, double clamped.... i would look at dropping the tank too... maybe the sender lines are rotted and pulling air...

smackzed 02-14-2012 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbonator (Post 4512949)
try unplugging your advance on the IP..... and maybe upgrade to a electric lift pump.... princess sells them for like 70.00..... and redo all the lines in good rubber, double clamped.... i would look at dropping the tank too... maybe the sender lines are rotted and pulling air...

If you mean light load advance that hasn't been functioning since I broke the wire at the sensor last year when I was replacing an injector. I've bypassed the fuel tank at the moment and the hose from the jerry can to the fuel pump is new clear line. I have a temporary electric pump in line but I've lost the alligator clips to try using it. I'm going to try that first thing in the morning, I forgot it was there until I had given up for the night. If that won't draw fuel from the jerry can a cigarette may get left near a puddle of fuel.

turbonator 02-14-2012 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smackzed (Post 4512974)
If you mean light load advance that hasn't been functioning since I broke the wire at the sensor last year when I was replacing an injector. I've bypassed the fuel tank at the moment and the hose from the jerry can to the fuel pump is new clear line. I have a temporary electric pump in line but I've lost the alligator clips to try using it. I'm going to try that first thing in the morning, I forgot it was there until I had given up for the night. If that won't draw fuel from the jerry can a cigarette may get left near a puddle of fuel.




:stick_out:break: quitter...LMFAO.....:)

smackzed 02-14-2012 07:11 PM

And there are lots of puddles, clear oily puddles, black puddles, red puddles. No green puddles tho. Now that I say that my rad will blow on me once the bitch is started. It's funny. A month ago a guy was walking past my truck while I was taking a break and asked me what year the truck was, Oh '87 huh and still reliable huh? I said yeah not too bad. Guess what started happening a few days later.

smackzed 02-15-2012 11:17 AM

Lack of progress report. Electric pump wouldn't draw fuel. it partially fills the clear line then won't draw anymore. I put a finger on the suction side and I can feel a bit of suction but not much. Tried to gravity feed. That wasn't working either. Enough to fill the filter but that's about it. Removed the mechanical fuel pump, looks fine, and when I cover the suction end with my thumb and push the lever I can feel some suction. Again though, not a lot.

Saw a drip come from the bottom of the filter base but there's been so much spilled fuel that I don't know if it's from the filter base or not. Regardless I still ahve to figure out why nothing will draw fuel.

legendman 02-15-2012 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smackzed (Post 4513547)
. Regardless I still ahve to figure out why nothing will draw fuel.

Is this from a jug or the tank?

Both pumps bad?

smackzed 02-15-2012 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by legendman (Post 4513566)
Is this from a jug or the tank?

Both pumps bad?

Jug and tank both. I;m almost certain that my mech pump is bad but it's passed the air bleed test when it was running. Air bleed open and good strong fuel flow, and no hesitation in the engine. Went and tested the electric fuel pump at my mechanics shop and it pumped a litre/quart of fuel in 30 secs. But that was flowing down and at home I'm flowing up so I thought maybe if I raised the fuel jug that would help, whoops some fuel sploshed out and got on the connections, bunch of sparks and smoke and melted wires. Pump is definitley bad now. So put the mechanical pump back on (what a joy) and bypassed the fuel filter using an inline filter but still no fuel flow. I'm stumped. Have a new mech fuel pump ordered for tomorrow morning. Cross my fingers.

I'm starting to think there were a few fuel problems and the last one was the straw that broke the camels back.

smackzed 02-15-2012 05:27 PM

took a look at a '90 with a decent body and 305 today. $800. It's very tempting. Park the old bitch and try to find a new body or something. Hard to justify the time for a truck that is such a piece of junk.

Hawkstrong 02-15-2012 07:16 PM

Buy the 1990 and stick the 6.2L in it! Itll give you a good chance to run all new fuel lines new wiring for the lift pump, etc. Good chance to start clean.

Good luck in whatever you end up doing. I wish I could be of more help

resherrick 02-15-2012 07:28 PM

sorry to hear you say that but I'm in the same boat.If it wasn't a 3/4 ton 4x4 I wouldn't bother.God knows I've spent enough on it to have bought something decent. But it sure is fun to drive when it works.
I wonder if the sock or whatever is on the pickup end of your fuel line, in the tank, is plugged.

smackzed 02-15-2012 07:36 PM

I'm thinking of doing the swap into the '90 but it's a short box and I'm not a fan. Also it's a 1/2 ton and I like having the 3/4. My mechanic has a an '88 3/4 4x4 that he isn't driving. 305. It needs an exhaust though. If I bought the 1/2 ton it would just be to get me through the winter and to a more profitable time of year.

Yeah I've spent enough on it so far it seems nuts to stop. The sock may be plugged but that still doesn't explain why I can't suck fuel out of a pail.

Hawkstrong 02-15-2012 07:58 PM

The 1/2 ton could be fixed.. Its the short bed thats the problems. The only short bed I want is in a off road rig.
I'm gonna do some serious thinking to try and help you figure out whats wrong..

Did you try a new fuel filter and fuel lines? Maybe now would be a good time to swap a spin on filter?

smackzed 02-15-2012 08:17 PM

My thinking at the moment is this.

1. Failing fuel pump. It does work some tho cause I put my finger over the suction side and pumped the lever a few times and got some suction. Not sure of why I can`t suck fuel out of a pail even with the damned electric pump. That`s just weird

2. Leaking fuel filter. When I think about it, the problem got a lot worse after replacing the FF a few weeks ago. Also it took a LONG time to get the truck going after the filter change. Then I had a no start the next day. I've felt fuel at the bottom seam but there's been fuel everywhere in the last few days.

3. Various pin holes in the supply line. I found one hole that was under a zip tie that was holding a return line to a supply line. Also fond some a clean area of fuel line along the frame rail. Nothings clean on this truck. Don`t know if there was a leak or not but I cut the line as close to the tank as I could get. Lots of old dirt where I cut so no fuel leaking in that area or above.

4. Possible problem with the pickup tube, that one I`m not so sure about though since when it`s running it runs with very little air then without warning there`s huge air and stall then no start.

5. My disintegrated cab mounts make the cab crush part of the pick up tube soft line. Don`t know if this is possible but the no starts have been mostly when parked with the pass side up on a snowbank. Surging has been most common when making turns, both conditions that make the cab move around.

legendman 02-15-2012 08:33 PM

Dang that thing is fighting ya, odd you can't get pumps to work from a jug.
When you get the new pump, I would try to get it running from the jug then
hook it back up to the tank.

I'm wondering if you've got a collapsed rubber line some where, I saw the post where you replaced the line as far back as you could.

But the bit about the cab possibly the line would grab my attention, what about a block of wood to hold the cab up?

Good luck

acesneights1 02-15-2012 08:34 PM

Change your fuel lines over to pushlok. You won't be sorry. I use the stuff on everything and it works great.

smackzed 02-15-2012 08:35 PM

Definitely going to get it running from a jug first. Make sure it runs like that with no air then hook it back up to the tank and see what changes.

legendman 02-15-2012 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by acesneights1 (Post 4514055)
Change your fuel lines over to pushlok. You won't be sorry. I use the stuff on everything and it works great.


Aces gonna need some elaboration on the pushlok.

Margot 02-15-2012 08:41 PM

Did you mechanically actuate the mechanical-style lift pump? I've found those fuel pumps tend to not suck too much when they don't have an engine actually driving them, leading to me questioning whether they really work or not when I move the rod manually. And an electric fuel pump could very well be dying or have a sealing problem leading to poor suction, seen that too.

This thing sure is fighting you though! Have you blown out the lines back to the tank to eliminate any potential debris in them? You can always try pressurizing again, I had to do it twice to find all my leaks.

acesneights1 02-15-2012 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by legendman (Post 4514065)
Aces gonna need some elaboration on the pushlok.

I don't wanna hi jack. It's a type of hose specifically for fuel. It's barrier hose. The stuff works really well on diesels.

acesneights1 02-15-2012 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smackzed (Post 4514039)
My thinking at the moment is this.

1. Failing fuel pump. It does work some tho cause I put my finger over the suction side and pumped the lever a few times and got some suction. Not sure of why I can`t suck fuel out of a pail even with the damned electric pump. That`s just weird
Barring some act of god, I's say the LP is no good. If it won't suck even from a pail unless the line you have from the pump to the pail is bad.

2. Leaking fuel filter. When I think about it, the problem got a lot worse after replacing the FF a few weeks ago. Also it took a LONG time to get the truck going after the filter change. Then I had a no start the next day. I've felt fuel at the bottom seam but there's been fuel everywhere in the last few days.

3. Various pin holes in the supply line. I found one hole that was under a zip tie that was holding a return line to a supply line. Also fond some a clean area of fuel line along the frame rail. Nothings clean on this truck. Don`t know if there was a leak or not but I cut the line as close to the tank as I could get. Lots of old dirt where I cut so no fuel leaking in that area or above.
Common spot for these unseen to the naked eye is on the fuel line pickup right where it bends to the tank.

4. Possible problem with the pickup tube, that one I`m not so sure about though since when it`s running it runs with very little air then without warning there`s huge air and stall then no start.
See above
5. My disintegrated cab mounts make the cab crush part of the pick up tube soft line. Don`t know if this is possible but the no starts have been mostly when parked with the pass side up on a snowbank. Surging has been most common when making turns, both conditions that make the cab move around.
Sounds like you know where to look.

I would have a fuel pressure gauge handy as well. You should see 4-7 psi min. you should NO air.
Hope that helps.

turbonator 02-15-2012 10:08 PM

Road trip ????:driver::truck:

Diaric 02-15-2012 10:15 PM

Sean, get it running from the pail like you plan. you need to isolate the cause before throwing parts you can't afford at it. As to the cause, I'm at a loss, but think your on the right track

legendman 02-15-2012 10:24 PM

How about this theory, smackzed said he felt suction when he tried the mechanical pump by hand, what if anything faster is some how making it crap out and not pump.

Or maybe it couldn't prime with the jug on the ground.

Smack is the mechanical pump on or off the motor?
If it's on maybe try to set it up higher than the pump and see what happens.
You might have mentioned it before but not sure if you tried it.

Diaric 02-15-2012 11:21 PM

i have a dumb thought about a plugged pick up sock, or holes in the pick up, that when he turns right, the fuel sloosh's and he looses supply

smackzed 02-16-2012 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diaric (Post 4514249)
i have a dumb thought about a plugged pick up sock, or holes in the pick up, that when he turns right, the fuel sloosh's and he looses supply

The hole in the pickup tube would make sense except it ran when the fuel was at 1/2 tank, Parked with the pass side up on a bit of a snowbank and no start. Added 40 litres/10 gallons and still no start. And right now it sitting on fairly level ground and no start.

I'm really thinking that the electric pump could push fuel down but not up.

Mechanical pump is back on the engine. There's a possibility that I've installed it somehow that the lever is beside the push rod rather than against it.

turbonator 02-16-2012 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smackzed (Post 4514383)
The hole in the pickup tube would make sense except it ran when the fuel was at 1/2 tank, Parked with the pass side up on a bit of a snowbank and no start. Added 40 litres/10 gallons and still no start. And right now it sitting on fairly level ground and no start.

I'm really thinking that the electric pump could push fuel down but not up.

Mechanical pump is back on the engine. There's a possibility that I've installed it somehow that the lever is beside the push rod rather than against it.

i dont think that is possible due to the machined bore the rod runs in... if it did happen, for sure the arm on the LP is broken or bent.... i really think that it is time to drop the tank and change/verify the sender, we have changed/repaired several that the pickup and return tubes were rotted and leaking flush with the senders top.....

Bigboytoys 02-16-2012 02:02 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here is a quick way of finding your issue.

It's an old fuel cap and a BBQ regulator. Just pull your cap and install this one set to no more than 5 psi and start looking for where the fuel is coming out of, fuel line, return lines, fuel pump and or into the oil pan.....

It also is the fast way to bleed the fuel system, after filter change..., without an electric pump.

smackzed 02-16-2012 06:05 PM

I'm done. Starter failed this morning. I guess it didn't like getting cranked 200 or so times in 4 days. Still have yet to see fuel at the filter. Looking for my receipt to see How long the warranty was. I bought it 7 months ago so I'm sure it's a 6 month warranty.

After looking at all the things wrong with it (mainly insane rust issues) I've decided to retire the old bitch.. Then I was talking to my father in law and he said, hey, haven't you wanted a crew cab for a while? I know a guy selling one that the body was redone a few months ago. Kinda made my mind up. So i think I'll be buying that and parking the bitch for a while. If I get fed up with feeding a 350 (i'm sure I will) I'll see about swapping in the 6.2.

Wipes away tears, I've had this truck longer than any other. usually i buy disposable truck, they last 2 years tops and they get junked, I've more than doubled that with this one. But it just isn't worth it anymore.

Hawkstrong 02-16-2012 06:35 PM

When you swap the 6.2 in to the crew cab at least you can start with a clean slate. All new fuel lines and the such.
I'm sorry about your luck, You'll get it eventually!

Diaric 02-16-2012 06:39 PM

Damn it Sean :(
electric pump's don't suck well, but they push real good and it sounds like the mechanical is toast. if theres an air leak, they will have a hard time getting prime.
check on the starter warrenty, its usually 90 days or 1 year

smackzed 02-16-2012 06:43 PM

Yeah, i agree. That damned starter just frustrated me to no end. i know it's my own fault but it still just gets my goat.

I've actually been looking for a crew cab for quite a while, a couple years at least. I'm actually kind of excited. Plus I should be able to use a lot of parts off my truck for it. I just put new shocks on and the front tires are fair. I'll be able to keep my spare, I'll have a spare rear axle if it comes to that. Also lots of new in the last year or so front end parts. Pretty good all around. Except the spending money part.

smackzed 02-16-2012 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diaric (Post 4514829)
Damn it Sean :(
if theres an air leak, they will have a hard time getting prime.

That's been my thinking of why i haven't been able to draw fuel, that and partly kinked clear line that when it gets some draw, it kinks up tight.

Anyway, if the starter warranty is still good great. If not I'll see if Dave can give me a tutorial on starter re-building.

Diaric 02-16-2012 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smackzed (Post 4514836)
Anyway, if the starter warranty is still good great. If not I'll see if Dave can give me a tutorial on starter re-building.

go for a visit to Jeff and Jim, starters are very easy. testing if armature etc is good is the expert part

smackzed 02-16-2012 07:04 PM

That's a good idea. they've actually offered to make a visit this weekend to help me get the old girl sorted but I think my mind is made up. I would like to see them sometime though, check out the new shop,

Margot 02-16-2012 08:16 PM

I can see why you'd toss in the towel since it's as rusty as you said. I seriously felt like just junking mine after 6 months of finding leaks and almost being left stranded several times, and mine doesn't have any rust.

Bigboytoys 02-16-2012 08:32 PM

Too bad your thrownin' in the towel, compare the cost of a replacement truck to what you got into yours and my vote would be FIX R!!

smackzed 02-16-2012 09:11 PM

replacement truck $2000.

New cab for my truck $400, New inner fenders $100 each. Flat bed or new box. $200-$500. Rear brakes, $75-$150. Paint job $75 for tremclad. New filter base (most likely) $50-$100 depending on type. New fuel lines, Not tons of $ except time. New exhaust, $200. Rear tires, $100 for used installed. Plus all the time to do this stuff or pay someone else to do it. A lot of it I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do.

What's still good. Engine itself and IP. trans, Frame, front end. rear axle, various random things like shocks etc... Oh and the radio works.

If the new truck wasn't a crew cab I'd keep at it but being a crew cab and a 3/4 2wd that will exchange parts with the old one it's worth it to my mind. I had a pretty good year last year and my wife has been complaining about the eyesore in the driveway for 2 years at least. Just to make her happy is pretty good. Even the kids have been talking about what a piece of junk my truck looks like.

turbonator 02-16-2012 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smackzed (Post 4515027)
replacement truck $2000.

New cab for my truck $400, New inner fenders $100 each. Flat bed or new box. $200-$500. Rear brakes, $75-$150. Paint job $75 for tremclad. New filter base (most likely) $50-$100 depending on type. New fuel lines, Not tons of $ except time. New exhaust, $200. Rear tires, $100 for used installed. Plus all the time to do this stuff or pay someone else to do it. A lot of it I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do.

What's still good. Engine itself and IP. trans, Frame, front end. rear axle, various random things like shocks etc... Oh and the radio works.

If the new truck wasn't a crew cab I'd keep at it but being a crew cab and a 3/4 2wd that will exchange parts with the old one it's worth it to my mind. I had a pretty good year last year and my wife has been complaining about the eyesore in the driveway for 2 years at least. Just to make her happy is pretty good. Even the kids have been talking about what a piece of junk my truck looks like.

well, if you are lookin to get rid of the motor, think of us, although i would be swappin it in a heartbeat, and scappin the gasser.... we are still on the prowl for a 4 door too.... got 2 dually diffs here to swap in and i can get a box with the dually fenders for 200.00... so if you happen across a 4 dr that is motorless, or differentialless, or just in general bad shape, but otherwise complete, let us know...LOL

legendman 02-16-2012 10:26 PM

Smackzed , what's gonna happen is a 2 step upgrade......

Upgrade one will be 4 doors instead of 2
Upgrade two will be putting the 6.2 in the crew cab.:D

Sorry to hear about the troubles, these mechanical things can be a real pita sometimes.

Looking forward to the "I got me a 4 door post" and then the 6.2 swap thread:D

Diaric 02-16-2012 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbonator (Post 4515090)
so if you happen across a 4 dr that is motorless, or differentialless, or just in general bad shape, but otherwise complete, let us know...LOL

still lots out here :rolleyes:

legendman 02-16-2012 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diaric (Post 4515107)
still lots out here :rolleyes:


Yea I'm looking for one to 6.2 and slam

turbonator 02-16-2012 11:01 PM

When you have more details on the truck let us know Sean..... when we finally do the swap, together, a big congrats will be in order. Just think, FFFD (family friendly four-door)....2-weekends, swap done....

legendman 02-16-2012 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbonator (Post 4515142)
W...2-weekends, swap done....

:eek: 2 weekends??? You guys getting slow eating all that cake:D

Bigboytoys 02-17-2012 12:46 AM

Well some of us are in the same boat as you.

I got a boat load of king kong parts and it's the pieces that go in between that are holding me up. There's a 60 front and a rear sitting next to each other on the shop floor for a Detroit swap with the 14B sitting in a snow bank. The 465 and 205, the 2wd steering box, steering ram, enough drive shafts and pieces, twin stick shift rails are also collecting dust in the shop also. Sheet metal and materiel for rock sliders are being used for coat rack's.

At the moment the cross over steering and the new front and rear hangers are the hold up due to karmic luck around the ranch but she will get put back together.

So don't give up we are all in the same boat, "I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess"

smackzed 02-17-2012 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbonator (Post 4515142)
When you have more details on the truck let us know Sean..... when we finally do the swap, together, a big congrats will be in order. Just think, FFFD (family friendly four-door)....2-weekends, swap done....

I was hoping you guys might offer to help.

Yeah the family friendly part is huge, as is having somewhere to keep stuff dry. I'm already thinking of an across the floor tool box since the kids legs are still pretty short. The only thing I'm not real crazy about is feeding a 350, probably carbed.

smackzed 02-17-2012 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbonator (Post 4515090)
well, if you are lookin to get rid of the motor, think of us, although i would be swappin it in a heartbeat, and scappin the gasser.... we are still on the prowl for a 4 door too.... got 2 dually diffs here to swap in and i can get a box with the dually fenders for 200.00... so if you happen across a 4 dr that is motorless, or differentialless, or just in general bad shape, but otherwise complete, let us know...LOL

I'll keep you guys in mind. I'm assuming your looking at less than $500?

koots 02-17-2012 11:45 AM

Sorry to hear about all your troubles. If I hadn't have wasted all my money on this K5, then having it break on me, I would have had about 6 months on my "new" car or truck by now.

Luckily I have understanding parents (let me use their 09 sierra for a while), now i've got my work truck in my possession. I still want my Jimmy back though, the other trucks are nice but they can't compare to a flexy, lifted K5 with a bed behind the front seats :D

turbonator 02-21-2012 09:06 AM

The ideal for us Sean, is we come to your place, pull all the needed pieces off your 6.2L truck. Turn around, come home, and prep all the pieces...clean, paint, seals, gaskets, etc... Then a couple weekends later you come and visit.....we figure should have everything swapped in and ready to go in a weekend....granted we aren't eating cake and cookies all the time that is....:D

We all know the economic benefits of the 6.2L, as compared to the gasser. You already have a good motor for a swap, we figure use it. We have other pieces here too, and usually for us to focus on someone else's project we need them here poking us with a stick....:) (nugg, nugg, hint, hint...).

smackzed 02-21-2012 07:47 PM

A little disappointed today. Went to look at the crew cab and it wasn't quite the "frame up resto with a bit of a bad box" I was told it was. While the cab itself was pretty good and the doors opened and shut really nice (really nice) there was some rust on the door skins and the interior was ROUGH. The front seat was torn to $hit, the rear seat torn but not near as bad, the dash was badly cracked and the stereo was hacked in. The good was that it had a full floater 14 bolt rear axle and the front end looked not bad. Then i was talking to a guy who knew the seller well and said it had a 700r4 which was the 3rd or 4th in 9 years and that the seller was hard on his vehicles. I figure the truck is worth maybe $1200 with a running good 350. i don't think he'd sell for that price.

So I went home and looked on=line. Nothing, looked further a field and WHOA. A srw 1 ton crew cab with 6.2 that I had wanted to buy last year was back up for sale. Every month or so i look at the classifieds in this town to see if it's back and it was just posted late last night.

240 000 kms,/150000 miles, body looks mint and the interior is gorgeous. Going to take a look tomorrow evening. Asking price is a little more than the other but still within reason. (oh and the guy said he bought a new truck and needs the room in his driveway, can anyone say bargaining chip)I'm freaking out

smackzed 02-21-2012 08:15 PM

Hey turbos, I asked the guy with the rougher crew cab how much he'd want for the truck without the motor. He said $1400 but he'd go down I'm sure. I don't know what you're looking to spend but it needs a rear windshield and a front window that he was replacing. If you offered him an as is where is price I'm sure he'd bargain. Cab really doesn't look bad at all if you have an interior. Pm me if you're interested and I can talk with him.

legendman 02-21-2012 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smackzed (Post 4519219)
So I went home and looked on=line. Nothing, looked further a field and WHOA. A srw 1 ton crew cab with 6.2 that I had wanted to buy last year was back up for sale. Every month or so i look at the classifieds in this town to see if it's back and it was just posted late last night.

240 000 kms,/150000 miles, body looks mint and the interior is gorgeous. Going to take a look tomorrow evening. Asking price is a little more than the other but still within reason. (oh and the guy said he bought a new truck and needs the room in his driveway, can anyone say bargaining chip)I'm freaking out

Fingers crossed :D Hope you can score it.

Trying to score a dually crew cab myself, got my eye on one but the hasn't called me back.

smackzed 02-22-2012 09:45 PM

Took a look, it's a beauty. Only rust I could see was 2 small holes in the wheel wells. Both bench seats are perfect with no tears anywhere. the doors close with barely any effort and the dash is near perfect also. Oh and it has a radio! I got it but paid full price, the guy is a truck driver and just left for Calgary and his wife said he was pretty firm but if I wanted to wait till he got back I could talk to him then. I don't have the time. Truck started right up no problems but there was a bit of smoke from the tail pipes. The injectors looked real old so I'm hoping it's either them or maybe it needs to be advanced a bit. If I need to put my IP from my parked truck so be it. I can't see it being compression how easy it started.

Pretty stoked.

legendman 02-22-2012 10:51 PM

:coolnana::bling::nopics::beerchug::bounce: :drinking: :drool::Get_him::hail::HiHi::RockOn::smoke2: :thumb::thumb::clap: :chicken: :drink::notworthy: :shots: :gray:

turbonator 02-22-2012 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by legendman (Post 4520349)
:coolnana::bling::nopics::beerchug::bounce: :drinking: :drool::get_him::hail::hihi::rockon::smoke2: :thumb::thumb::clap: :chicken: :drink::notworthy: :shots: :gray:

x2.....:pimp::canada:

Diaric 02-22-2012 11:51 PM

glad to hear your still in the 6.2 family Sean, without having to do a swap

smackzed 02-23-2012 06:06 PM

yeah, I'm glad too. I've been driving my father in laws 1500 the last week and pulling up to the gas bar and putting that puny little hose in the tank just seems weird. I'm picking up the truck on Sat so I'll post what I can. If anyone wants to PM me directions on how to post pics that would be awesome. And remember I am totally computer illiterate

Hawkstrong 02-23-2012 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by legendman (Post 4520349)
:coolnana::bling::nopics::beerchug::bounce: :drinking: :drool::Get_him::hail::HiHi::RockOn::smoke2: :thumb::thumb::clap: :chicken: :drink::notworthy: :shots: :gray:

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbonator (Post 4520358)
x2.....:pimp::canada:


x3, 4 and 5

smackzed 02-25-2012 07:55 PM

Well she's in the driveway, and sticking into the sidewalk to boot. She is so clean it's almost unbelievable. Don't worry tho I'll take care of that soon. I drove about 200kms today, 120miles and it was pretty good. Everything is tight. Only real problem was that it never got up to full heat and there wasn't a lot of heat coming out of the heater. New t-stat coming soon. Pix to come tomorrow. Oh, did i mention, not only does it have a radio, it has a CD player. I own a CD...I think

smackzed 02-25-2012 08:29 PM

Oh, I didn't really see it the other night especially since I had the hood up most of the time but there is some peeling clear coat on the hood. Doesn't bother me too much, but if anyone has an easy fix, I'd love to hear it.

IamDave0887 02-25-2012 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smackzed (Post 4514836)
That's been my thinking of why i haven't been able to draw fuel, that and partly kinked clear line that when it gets some draw, it kinks up tight.

Anyway, if the starter warranty is still good great. If not I'll see if Dave can give me a tutorial on starter re-building.

direct drive or Gear reduction?

Direct drive's are cake to rebuild.

Bigboytoys 02-25-2012 09:20 PM

Carefully scrape the loose stuff off, scuff with 400 then 600 and re shoot her or just leave it, hot rod guys are spending big buck for fake patina and your getting it for free!

legendman 02-25-2012 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smackzed (Post 4522502)
Well she's in the driveway, and sticking into the sidewalk to boot. She is so clean it's almost unbelievable. Don't worry tho I'll take care of that soon. I drove about 200kms today, 120miles and it was pretty good. Everything is tight. Only real problem was that it never got up to full heat and there wasn't a lot of heat coming out of the heater. New t-stat coming soon. Pix to come tomorrow. Oh, did i mention, not only does it have a radio, it has a CD player. I own a CD...I think

Pics? We need pics bad. Turbo guys run up to smacks and take some pics:D

smackzed 02-26-2012 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IamDave0887 (Post 4522564)
direct drive or Gear reduction?

Direct drive's are cake to rebuild.

Gear reduction

Ok, got some pics, now how do I post them. I'm searching now but didn't find it in FAQs

Landmine 02-26-2012 11:08 AM

Yay glad you're sticking around smackzed

For pics go advanced to post, manage attachments and click browse, than choose each file/image you want to upload

I cant wait to see the crew cab srw.

smackzed 02-26-2012 11:32 AM

pics
 
1 Attachment(s)
did it work? I got 1 attached, I'll try others.

Did this work?

I don't know what I'm doing. I have a photobucket album but don't know how to attach. Any one?

legendman 02-26-2012 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smackzed (Post 4522860)
did it work? I got 1 attached, I'll try others.

Did this work?

I don't know what I'm doing. I have a photobucket album but don't know how to attach. Any one?


If its a pic of the dash then it worked, more more more:D

smackzed 02-26-2012 11:48 AM

this is weird

legendman 02-26-2012 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smackzed (Post 4522860)
did it work? I got 1 attached, I'll try others.

Did this work?

I don't know what I'm doing. I have a photobucket album but don't know how to attach. Any one?

In your album, in thumbnail view hover your mouse over the pic... when the menu pops up click on the "Direct link" it will say copied then go to the post and click on the "Insert image" button and then right click and paste.

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/...7/untitled.jpg

smackzed 02-26-2012 12:21 PM

[IMG][IMG]http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums/...d/DSC00749.jpg[/IMG][/IMG]http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums/...d/DSC00747.jpg[IMG]http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums/...d/DSC00746.jpg[/IMG]http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums/...d/DSC00750.jpg

smackzed 02-26-2012 12:26 PM

http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums/...d/DSC00745.jpgOk that's as much as I can figure out to do today. I ended up just erasing the numbers and putting in different ones in the paste cause it kept coming up the same. I'll try taking more pix with less glare and maybe try to figure out this picture posting stuff

You can see the 2 cracks in the dash. not perfect but about the best I've seen. The seat has 2 small tears, seperations really. It looks like theres a tear in that pic of the seat but it's a wrinkle. 2 new 875 cca batteries, what looks like a new brake master cylinder (the brakes are real firm but not grabby) and 4 near new tires. I would guess they have about 5000kms, 3000miles. My wife and kids even said she thought it was nice. now that's impressive.

legendman 02-26-2012 01:04 PM

That thing kicks *** crew cabs rule :thumb:

smackzed 02-26-2012 01:08 PM

Thanks legend. It is very close to my dream truck. If it was 3 years younger it would be e-test exempt and it would be better with a standard, but I really can't complain. Cleanest most rust free truck I've ever owned

turbonator 02-26-2012 03:12 PM

That looks really good Sean, I think I already see a baby-seat in the back.....dual purpose, tough enough to work, large enough for the family. Real clean all around, nice truck:thumb:

smackzed 02-26-2012 03:28 PM

Exactly the reason I've wanted a 3+3. Definitly not for the parrallel parking abilities. I was trying to back into a parking space yesterday, and it wasn't going to be easy. That extra 3' makes a difference. This is going to take some figuring, or parking space hunting. The kids were pretty happy to be driving in it yesterday, at least as happy as in my wifes malibu. Also great for keeping tools in and locked up when not in use.

Hawkstrong 02-26-2012 03:33 PM

I think it may be time for a "new truck" thread. With LOTS and LOTs of pics!

That is a good looking truck!

smackzed 02-26-2012 03:37 PM

Yeah I could do that.

Margot 02-26-2012 07:06 PM

That's an awesome truck. Before I found my Suburban that was exactly what I was looking for. Finding one with a diesel is extremely rare as the gas ones are hard enough to come by as-is.

smackzed 02-26-2012 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Margot (Post 4523201)
That's an awesome truck. Before I found my Suburban that was exactly what I was looking for. Finding one with a diesel is extremely rare as the gas ones are hard enough to come by as-is.

Precisely. That's why i didn't dicker about the price. i may have been able to get them down a few hundred but i may also have lost it. I missed out last year, I wasn't going to again. Looking at the vehicle history package, besides the guys I bought it from and a few dealers who owned it for a few months as trade in, each owner has had it close to 5 years and one for over 10. Right now I know of 2 other 3+3's for sale, both with 350's both in not in near as good shape and both about the same price I paid. I got everything I wanted.

akalnoski 02-19-2013 12:15 AM

Perhaps an old rag that was placed in the filler tube to take the place of a fuel cap. A buddy of mine had a similar problem with is truck. The rag would cover the pick up tube & cause fuel starvation. Just a suggestion, without reading the entire thread. It's late, & almost bedtime, not enough time for me to read the entire thread tonight.


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