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Old 10-12-2011, 03:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
ASPHALTVICTORY
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Old paint buffing Restorration

So pretty much everone here has a 20+ year old truck with im guessing 20+ year old paint I just feel this is somthing I am really good at and i wouldnt mind passing along/helping out anybody intrested

My prefrence in compounds
3M Imperial rubbing compound its white and comes in a purple bottle And so far the only place ive found it it NAPA Or a marine supply store This is for the deep bite into heavly oxoidised paint Yes the tan stuff works but it leaves helatious swirl marks A quart jug $50 should do a whole truck

3M Perfect it glazeing compound This is to remove the fine swirl marks left by the compound Again a quart jug should do the job $30

Mothers cleaner wax (my prefrence) i find its thicker and dosent dry as fast

And a decent variable speed buffer (NOT a $20 polisher) with both a double sided woll pad and a soft foam pad

Take into concideration weather Sunny and hot = bad day for buffing and waxing



1) wash With non wax soap (dish detergent)

2) Tape off anything black/rubber trip pieces emblems...anything not paint

3) Take a small ammount of said rubbing compound on a rag and try it by hand on a small out of site spot just to get a feel of how fast and deep the cut is into the paint

4) Take a small shop rag (a pack would be a good idea for the whole project) And fold it up untill it fits in the palm of your hand and apply about a teaspoon of compound at a time (the rag is your applicator)

5) Apply on a small area lets say half a front fender evenly (any farther and the compound is liable to dry and cake up This also applys for the wax

6) take your buffer and start slow it shouldnt sound like an angle grinder if it has a speed setting (witch is allmost necessery) 1 through 6 try 2 or 3 and gently work the woll pad not completly flat but at an angle giving you a goot 4/5 inches of pad to truck contact

7) gently AND quickly work the compound over the paint never staying in one spot for more than a second going up and down and back and fourth untill you dont see any more visible compound left on the spot you just worked

8) Pull your buffer off the spot and turn it up to 4 or 5 and rapidly go over the spot Verry lightly just to remove any left over compound

9) Repeat in this in small areas going along the whole truck The bigest area should be an amrs length

at this point your trucks paint should look better but close up you will se swirl markes and fine scratches You could cheat at this point if your not looking for "show car" and go over it with the cleaner wax and call it a day

10 Take a wooden paint stirer ant turn on the buffer all the way to its max setting and run the paint stick into the woll this should clean out any compound/paint/dirt from your woll pad Some guys use a screw driver But that wrecks the $30 woll pad

11) take a terry cloth and wipe the compound dust from the truck (rubbing compound usually dosent feel good on the throat so you might want to wear a mask)

If its getting late quit dont try dooing anymore in the dark...even in a lited building its hard to see where you left off

12) Take your foam pad in exchange for your woll pad and your rubbing compound for the glazeing compound glazeing compound is alot thinner

13) Apply the clazeing compound evenly to the foam pad (again it goes a long way a tea spoon should doo it) And what i like to do for safe measure is apply a thin layer to the pannel im working on just so nothings dry

Your still going to want to do all of this job in small armlenght sections i cant stress this enough if the compound dries its no good and makes the job more difficult

14) Use the same back and fourth side to side method and set your buffer to around 3 or 4 once the compound is starting to disapear you should see a beautyful glossy finish with some greasy buffer marks take your terry cloth and wipe away the greasy/waxy buffer marks...OMG THERES MY ORIGINAL PAINT COLOR!!!!

now that you finished buffing deglazeing the truck your it looks pretty dam good and youl be tempeted to leave it... If you dont put anything on the paint like wax IT WILL OXIDISE BACK UP IN A WEEK! Thats why cars come clear coated And if your truck had any clear coat left you just compounded it off

15) take your double sided (ahh hears the reason for the double sided pad) woll pad and swap it over to the clean side And apply the wax in the same manner as you did the rubbing compound applying less than a teaspoon on a rag and spreading an even film on your small patch

WAX DRIES FAST spread it thin The reason your using "cleaner wax" is because it still has some bite to it and will remove any left over swirl marks A sealer wax should be used later on and maby once a month to keep it glossy Should it dry and haze up take a spray bottle of water and wipe it off dired waz will just clogg and burn in the buffing pad

16) In the same pattern of back and fourth work in the wax rember it microscopicly filling imperfections and scratches so it needs to be worked untill all you see is paint And now with the wax your starting your buffer on 3 and then once the bulk is worked in your bumping the power up to 4 or 5 and lightly feathering the wax intill its gone

17) Cleaner wax isnt the best type of wax to "KEEP" a truck looking good youl want to use a compatable sealer wax and apply this by hand Dont be lured into the gimicy aplicators and waxes a good wax shouldnt cost you an arm and a leg and all you need to put it on is a rag and a terry towel to remove the remainder

When your buffing stay clear of the wind sheild wiper arms and body panel gaps trim/molding or emblems (in between the hood and fender) anytime a buffing wheel gets cought up on somthing you risk gouging the paint or burning it with the pad

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(1987 GMC jimmy v1500 120k on the clock)
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Old 10-12-2011, 11:11 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Excellent how to write up, I'm sure it'll be quite helpful. Thanks

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  1. '82 K20 Silverado P/U 6.2na w/NV4500, 3.73s & 33 in Hankook AT's (MY FAVORITE)
  2. '85 K30 Silverado Crew Dually, 454 is gone. SC 6.2 under construction
  3. '76 K5 Gasser...up for sale
  4. '88 K10 Silverado burb, 6.2na w/700r4 & 3.42 K20 axles
ADAPT, IMPROVISE, OVERCOME. YOU DON'T LIKE IT, MAKE IT WHAT YOU LIKE.
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
Diaric
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got some pictures. I need visual aids
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well to make your pump retarded, you could let it hang out with me for a day
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Diaric wins thread derailment......
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Yeah Diaric, I gotta say, I'm afraid I'm going to have to give you an official warning on that.
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Old 10-13-2011, 12:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
ASPHALTVICTORY
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No pictures yet Is there anything your having trouble invisioning? Im not a teacher lol so i dont know if i did everything on this writeup corectly If i was too vauge about somthing ill gladly TRY to explain
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This car is 100% death proof. Only to get the benefit of it, honey, you REALLY need to be sitting in my seat.

(1987 GMC jimmy v1500 120k on the clock)
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
ASPHALTVICTORY
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Perfect buffing project

So me and my buddy picked up this 87 2wd GEM lol today for $700 its got the 4.3 v6 but its pretty clean and relitively rust free everything works and its inspected till 2012 Would you belive this truck ISNT tan but a gold color? This is the type of oxidised paint that you can breathe new life into all i did today was wash it for tomorow as it was getting dark Ill try and get as many steps posted
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This car is 100% death proof. Only to get the benefit of it, honey, you REALLY need to be sitting in my seat.

(1987 GMC jimmy v1500 120k on the clock)
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Old 11-15-2011, 01:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
ASPHALTVICTORY
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the last pic is after a bath to get off the grime and mold? I use dish soap because its cheep it degreases the paint from any road grime and it dosnt contain any wax Some car wash soaps have wax in them and thats just going to gum up my pad when im compounding
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This car is 100% death proof. Only to get the benefit of it, honey, you REALLY need to be sitting in my seat.

(1987 GMC jimmy v1500 120k on the clock)
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:45 AM   #7 (permalink)
legendman
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Nice score, that 4.3 needs to be bumped up to a 6.2
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What your saying happened, should never be able to happen.
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I put a chevrolet tailgate on my last truck and it started acting like a girl...love me, need me, want me pay attention to me. Took it off and put the GMC back on (fixed the latch) and it went back to being the same old dirty bastard it used to be
~ Bob
1987 K20 5.7 TBI 700r4 np208
1999 Chevrolet K2500 5.7L Auto
2006 Jetta TDI 5sp
2002 Golf TDi 4dr 5sp

Do yourself a favor and read the 6.2 Diesel Student Training Manual ... lots of good info...it's in PDF format located here >> PDF Manuals
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:49 AM   #8 (permalink)
Hawkstrong
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Nice score, that 4.3 needs to be bumped up to a 6.2
X2!

This thread gets my vote for sticky
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White 1988 GMC Jimmy. 6.2L "C" Code 700R4. 64,000 miles.
Got stolen and rolled.....Will be greatly missed

Blue 1992 Chevy K2500 Ext. Cab Long box. 454/4L80E Mechanical 6.5 GM-1 turbo w/turbo master. 4L80E NV4500 5 spd

Blue 1985 Chevy K10 Regular Cab Long box. 305Blown up SM465 4spd Currently getting the 6.2 from the Jimmy
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Old 11-15-2011, 11:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
legendman
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Better yet sell me the truck and I will put a 6.2 in it lol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diaric View Post
What your saying happened, should never be able to happen.
Quote:
Originally Posted by smackzed View Post
I put a chevrolet tailgate on my last truck and it started acting like a girl...love me, need me, want me pay attention to me. Took it off and put the GMC back on (fixed the latch) and it went back to being the same old dirty bastard it used to be
~ Bob
1987 K20 5.7 TBI 700r4 np208
1999 Chevrolet K2500 5.7L Auto
2006 Jetta TDI 5sp
2002 Golf TDi 4dr 5sp

Do yourself a favor and read the 6.2 Diesel Student Training Manual ... lots of good info...it's in PDF format located here >> PDF Manuals
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Old 11-15-2011, 11:57 AM   #10 (permalink)
Diaric
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Added to the FAQ's

__________________
1987 6.2l Jimmy , being restored,4" lift, 35 mudders 1993 W350 5.9 , custom stretched cab, duelly flatdeck
2001 VW TDI Jetta 4 door loaded 2001 VW TDI Golf 2 door swapped engine project
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4320diesel View Post
well to make your pump retarded, you could let it hang out with me for a day
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkstrong View Post
Diaric wins thread derailment......
Quote:
Originally Posted by High Sierra 2500 View Post
Yeah Diaric, I gotta say, I'm afraid I'm going to have to give you an official warning on that.
6.2 FAQ's AND ANSWERS Click Here
My Restoration Thread Click Here
Alberta Coal Roller Member #2
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