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Old 09-01-2011, 03:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
expendable
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diesel leak

got a diesel leak at the block that attaches to the fuel filter. i have the huge rectangular box filter.

the shop says they can't fix it. they have had it for 5 hours. they also say they can't find the parts to rebuild it. and that it can't be changed for a diff style filter, etc.

what can i do?

Thanks in advance

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Old 09-01-2011, 04:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I know some people get rid of the box filter and put on a different type. Not sure what they use.

On my TDI VW They change out the regular filter with an adapter to make the CAT filters work. They double the filtering.

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Old 09-01-2011, 04:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I believe what you need to fix it is a simple o-ring that is usually the problem. Finding the o-ring that is the right size might be the only issue with doing it (i have no experience with this whatsoever though).

As for it not being able to change to a different style filter setup is completely wrong. You might not be able to do that with all the stock fuel lines, but cut some up and replace with fuel rated rubber line to connect to whatever setup you change too. Mounting locations would obviously have to change as well but it sounds like your mechanics are professional "Parts Replacers" and have no clue how to deviate from their ALLDATA instructions.
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Old 09-01-2011, 04:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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the mechanic i took it to supposedly worked on the 6.5L diesel as a Chevy mechanic when they were sold new and he did work on my buddies 6.5 powered truck. replaced fuel lines, one faulty glow plug and one faulty injector.

i will have to look into the o-ring idea. thanks
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Old 09-01-2011, 04:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by expendable View Post
the mechanic i took it to supposedly worked on the 6.5L diesel as a Chevy mechanic when they were sold new and he did work on my buddies 6.5 powered truck. replaced fuel lines, one faulty glow plug and one faulty injector.

i will have to look into the o-ring idea. thanks
I was reading another post and from what I read. They said the box assembly has to come off the firewall to get to the O-ring.
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Old 09-01-2011, 06:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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depends where the leak is. some are where the filter attaches, others are the air bleed and fuel drain or heater element. some of these take a square cut ring. Fred IIRC, uses a piece of cleanly cut heater hose of the correct diameter.
you can go to a big truck shop and get a frame mounted filter assembly that will use cheaper screw on filters
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Old 09-01-2011, 06:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You could go with a NAPA filter setup like diaric said, can't remember what the number was but it will let you use the spin-on filters.
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Old 09-01-2011, 06:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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!

the mechanic says the water in fuel sensor is leaking.

ive been trying to read up on the leaking problems with stanadyne filter housings. can i just have my mechanic remove the water in fuel sensor, tap the hole, put a screw in and put some silicone over it?

like this thread says
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho....php?p=3458022

i am leaning towards having the mechanic do that, and then i'll swap out to a racor 445 setup down the road. unless there is a better setup.

Thanks again everybody!
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Old 09-01-2011, 08:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Phone a bone yard for another unit and R&R, would be the quickest.

Second, follow the direction in a Haynes manual on how to disassemble and re assemble the Model 80 filter assembly, they are very good especially if you live in a cold area.
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Old 09-02-2011, 05:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Napa part 4309 is the number for the spin on base, its about $30. The fliters are spin on with water separator petcock at the bottom, about $15 each. You'll need some line and something to fab up a mount. I bought the mount, two filters, and all the hardware excluding the rubber lines for right at $70. Going to do the swap at the next oil change. The filter is 3123 for a 12 micron, 3124 for a 6 micron. Good Luck

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