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Old 03-17-2009, 06:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
Jodean
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My head hurts
Mine too....

do you have pics of this? Did you put these on a circuit board or something and can you get all that at radio shack??

Id really like to do this.

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Old 03-17-2009, 08:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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yeah a diagram would really be helpful, if you dont mind

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Old 03-17-2009, 08:54 PM   #13 (permalink)
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There are other (potentially better) methods of doing this, but I'd had success using the power transistor.

I personally used a TIP3055 with my circuit, but there are a very wide selection of other power transistors that'll do the job just fine. You can search on google to find the spec sheets on that particular transistor and choose one that has similar specs. I chose to utilize a power transistor as this is a fairly high frequency and high voltage waveform at higher RPMs, a normal transistor will get too hot, or will be overpowered by the ESS's waveform amplitude. The output waveform got up to around 50V when I scoped it out, so I picked a transistor good for 100V. The current is still relatively small, less than an amp for sure, so the TIP3055 is major overkill in that sense as well.

Since the ESS produces a sawtooth waveform, it does not matter which terminal you ground and which one you supply to the transistor circuit. The output will be the same, but 180 degrees out of phase which is of no concern to your tachometer.

I was able to purchase all the materials at a local electrical supply house, including a nice little project box. When I wired everything up, I simply installed the module inline with the tachometer. It shares the power / ground circuits that the tach utilizes, and just goes between the input of the tach, and one of the outputs of the ESS. Nice and clean install, easy to lay out on a small 1x1" breadboard that comes with a project box.
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Last edited by 80Sierra; 03-17-2009 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 03-17-2009, 09:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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hey right on thanks
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Old 03-18-2009, 11:24 AM   #15 (permalink)
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hey guys, i just got an 87 V2500, 6.2 n/a and i was wondering what i should hook the tach up to in order to get a signal...iv heard alternator, and also the injector pump, but im not to sure what to use
Easiet install for a full size tach is to run it off the alternator. The alternators used in 87 don't have a tach lead, but it's pretty easy to install a stator tap. Takes half an hour. If you buy a diesel tach made to run of the alternator, it will come with instructions for installing the stator tap in the Delco 10 and 12 SI alternator. All it takes is a soldering iron and a piece of wire. I've had an AutoMeter tach on my 87 Suburban for 20 years and it works fine.
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Old 03-20-2009, 03:20 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Ya a 4000 rpm range tach would be great but there is a some what of a hack way around this. All most all tach's have a # of cylinder switch on the back. Set it to 4 cyl and the tach reads double what the rpm's are. This uses more of the sweep range, 2000 rpm reads 4000....
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:29 PM   #17 (permalink)
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... and then you can say you can rev it up to about 7000

You'd still always have to do the calculation, I wouldn't like that.

Why not a tiny tach? They seem to be easy to install and even have a built-in hourmeter ... I want an hourmeter anyway, so when I have money, I'll probably get a tiny tach.

Last edited by 0lee; 03-20-2009 at 08:30 PM.
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:03 PM   #18 (permalink)
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http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=ATM-2888

I'm just gonna order that one. Seems like the price isn't any worse than most normal gas tachometers and it comes with the pickup for the alternator. I can use some calipers to measure the sizes of the pulleys and use that for calibration.
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Old 03-20-2009, 11:24 PM   #19 (permalink)
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it comes with the pickup for the alternator. I can use some calipers to measure the sizes of the pulleys and use that for calibration.
The sizes of the pulleys don't tell you anything about the magnetic fields of the alternator that are being used by the tach. As far as I understand it, with a magnetic pickup you get an estimation about the RPMs which will vary with factors like temperature --- and the tach has to be calibrated for each alternator specifically. Replace the alternator, and you'll have to calibrate again.

Did you look at this one: http://tinytach.com/tinytach/diesel.php?

Last edited by 0lee; 03-20-2009 at 11:26 PM.
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Old 03-21-2009, 12:52 AM   #20 (permalink)
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i did but i dont like the fact that its digital.

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Soon to Come: Single 5" Stack, Getrag G360, HX35 + POD's and a Chevy 1 ton Crew Cab Dually Body
99 International 4700, DT466E, 6 spd Eaton, 33' Deck
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