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Duramax Fourth Generation: 2007.5-2010 (LMM) Discuss the fourth generation (2007.5-2010) of the 6.6L Duramax diesel engine & associated components. Engine related discussion ONLY.

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Old 09-03-2019, 07:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
Casper59
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Water pump replacement

I'm curious what information is readily available for swapping out my water pump. I've started so its full ahead now but looking for tips and tricks.... any experienced knuckle busters have suggestions?

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Old 09-03-2019, 08:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 09-04-2019, 08:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
Rvn4me
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Old 09-13-2019, 01:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
Casper59
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This was suggested for removing the harmonic balancer bolt. It worked like a dream with the Lisle block installed as The Bac had shown. I moved the balancer so this length of box tubing and welded socket touched the ground. A bungee under the socket and hooked to the block held it easily, it didn't need to be super tight. Just enough to support the weight. Bumping the starter once didn't quite loosen it up, but I had marked the balancer and socket with a felt tip pen so I would recognize any movement. A second bump of the starter loosened it nicely.
My fender liner was different from the photo so it had to come out to remove the two lower bolts through the wheel well.
My new AC Delco pump didn't have studs so I found it necessary to glue the paper gasket to the pump before installation. I use some stuff called Zap a Gap bought at a hobby store. I keep that glue on hand because I'm a horseman and it glues oily leather...among many other surfaces. That allowed me to insert bolts where the studs were without the gasket moving at all. It dries instantly.
The 4" x 1/2" " radiator" hose coming out of the tube on top of the thermostat should be measured and cut no longer than necessary, I didn't and split the "0" ring, wrestling the tube into place. Get clamps for that small hose you are comfortable working with, it's not in a good spot.
My oil filler tube was in the way to bleed the system so I left it unbolted until I filled it with antifreeze.
Using the box tubing for my "wrench" allowed me to slide a smaller piece of box tubing inside it to give me the leverage to tighten the balancer bolt. With the hood on, I turned the crank to a position where I could position my "wrench" on the 12 point bolt so the end of my extension would stick out just about touching the hood and that gave me the travel so with the extension I could put my weight into torquing the bolt. A bungee again held it from slipping. Several short pulls and it was tight.
Dexcool was highly recommended by a ASE friend, a corrosion additive also.
Hope my ramblings here helps someone else along, and a big THANK YOU to this website and those who entered posts. Tremendous amount of help!
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Old 09-13-2019, 01:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
Casper59
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Sea Foam product called Deep Creep sprayed on the black plastic parts loosened the dirt and really helped clean up the dreary dirty engine. IMG_20190910_171852177_1568349451821.jpg
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