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Duramax Fourth Generation: 2007.5-2010 (LMM) Discuss the fourth generation (2007.5-2010) of the 6.6L Duramax diesel engine & associated components. Engine related discussion ONLY.

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Old 05-24-2018, 12:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
skylord64
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This one is a doozy: No Crank, No start, random start

Alrighty, this one is really throwing me for a loop. I have a 2007.5 Silverado max with straight pipe, deleted, and a DSP5 tune (tow, 2-5 power performance increase). When I first bought the truck close to a year ago I notice that one day it kind of randomly didn't turn on when I turned the ignition switch. It was a hotter day and thought maybe it was a fluke because after 2 tries on turning the key off and then cranking it came on. It wasn't a big issue during the winter months. It happened a few times but thought maybe the starter is starting to give out. So once it started getting warmer it did it more often, so then I thought it's time to change a starter. I changed the starter, and guess what... it still does it. I tested the batteries and both are 100%, I changed the starter relay and crank relay... still good. I also made sure the ignition switch wiring is good, even though it should still start with remote start but it won't when it throws it's fit. It randomly does it, mainly when it gets hot outside. I'm at a loss of what it could be, no codes are being thrown. I'm wondering if something with the tune could be getting in the way, because if I turn the key on and off a few times(2-7) it will crank right up. Does anyone know what it could be? I'll try and post up a youtube video of the problem tomorrow as well.

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Old 05-24-2018, 04:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
oldschoolbowtie
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Welcome to DP and congrats on truck.

I had a similar issue with my truck and it turned out to be a the corrosion in the high amp fuse panel on the firewall where the positive sides of batteries tie in and a bad ground on the "aux battery". I did a right up on it see below

I spent 6 months chasing this down. Good luck and hopefully this helps

Just an update for those who may have the same issue. I did so much research and will try and capture what I found.


Using the entering argument you have tried all the basic checks and have eliminated the security and airbag system and you have the correct rev to the operating system in your PCM Here is what I found: based on reading a ton of bulletins and every website I could

1 the battery junction box on Passenger side firewall. It is a likely problem. Pop the plastic cover off and clean the connections (unhook batteries first)

2 when you have done that the "positive side" of the battery electrical should be sound

3 if no smoking gun was found (ie heavy oxidation) look at the negative side cabling. Start the truck and verify you have >14 volts on both batteries (14.8 ish) If not you have a cable issue. Almost all the trucks came with RPO code TP2 which is direct parallel battery hook up. There is also 8B0 for the add on digital battery isolator.

I found that I had 12.4 volts on the "aux" battery (pass side) and that the negative cable was corroded on the inside of the molded lead connector. Therefore it would periodically charge and work but only once in a while.

That caused the truck to try and pull all the starting current from the Drivers side battery (it killed it in 7 months)

I took and unhooked all the batteries and did connectivity (resistance checks) on all the cables. I replace the pass side battery ground and now it all works as it should.

I cant take much credit as I found post on another forum that got me started. That guy had a bad terminal end on his positive on aux battery (still caused same problem.

I hope this helps I spent a very long time chasing this. I know how frustrating it can be especially when you pay people to tell you there is nothing wrong or we couldn't get it to repeat.

if you have specific questions PM and I will help you out. I also know how frustrating it is when you get no help


good luck

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2007.5 3500HD Silverado LTZ
Kennedy Custom Tune Banks Intake and 4 " exhaust, Air Dog 150, Leveled front end, aftermarket upper control arms, tie rod end sleeves, bypass oil filter, Pusher 3" "hot side" charger tube, aFe Turbo inlet pipe, PPE deep Trans Pan with temp gage, 2 low mod for front differential disable, PACBRAKE 5000# Air Bags with remote on board air...otherwise stock


1953 Chevy truck 496 2 NOS kits ...otherwise stock


1927 Roadster 383 2 NOS kits chassis car (street legal)// otherwise stock
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Old 05-24-2018, 07:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
Rvn4me
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Google “Duramax LMM no crank” lots of good pointers.
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Old 05-27-2018, 04:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
oldschoolbowtie
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any progress?
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Al


2007.5 3500HD Silverado LTZ
Kennedy Custom Tune Banks Intake and 4 " exhaust, Air Dog 150, Leveled front end, aftermarket upper control arms, tie rod end sleeves, bypass oil filter, Pusher 3" "hot side" charger tube, aFe Turbo inlet pipe, PPE deep Trans Pan with temp gage, 2 low mod for front differential disable, PACBRAKE 5000# Air Bags with remote on board air...otherwise stock


1953 Chevy truck 496 2 NOS kits ...otherwise stock


1927 Roadster 383 2 NOS kits chassis car (street legal)// otherwise stock
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Old 06-10-2018, 01:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
skylord64
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@oldschoolbowtie , thanks for the input.

Update: So far nothing is wrong with the battery wiring. I couldn't find anything loose either. I did find that when the truck wouldn't crank it's because the "check engine" light doesn't come on at the initial key turn. This is leading me to believe it has to do with an ECU issue(it is tuned) or a sensor issue that isn't sending feedback when I turn the key. I saw online somewhere that there is a certain amount of "ok's" the truck's computer has to get in order to let power go to the starter. It's weird because once I get the truck to give me the check engine light it lets me crank and the truck runs perfect. No codes or anything. Do you have any idea what I should check in this case? Should I just get it refreshed and tuned again? Thanks again for all the help!
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Old 06-10-2018, 01:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
skylord64
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I also meant to say "reflashed"
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Old 06-11-2018, 12:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
skylord64
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Here are the links to one with a no start no crank and the good start with no issues that same day. Spoke with a guy who's worked on some of these chevy's and he said that it sounds like a crank position sensor since it has been mostly happening when it gets super hot and that a lot of times it won't throw the CPS code.


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Last edited by OkDually; 06-11-2018 at 07:49 AM. Reason: fixed video link
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Old 06-11-2018, 07:29 AM   #8 (permalink)
Rvn4me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skylord64 View Post
Here are the links to one with a no start no crank and the good start with no issues that same day. Spoke with a guy who's worked on some of these chevy's and he said that it sounds like a crank position sensor since it has been mostly happening when it gets super hot and that a lot of times it won't throw the CPS code.
If the CKP Sensor signal is lost at any time, the engine will not run.
DTC P0335 sets if there is no signal from the CKP sensor.
DTC P0336 sets if the CKP sensor signal is out of range.

If the CMP Sensor signal is lost while the engine is running, the engine will operate normally.
If the CMP Sensor signal is not present at start-up, the engine will not start.
DTC P0340 will set if there is no signal from the CMP.
DTC P0341 sets if the CMP signal is out of range.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skylord64 View Post
When I first bought the truck close to a year ago I notice that one day it kind of randomly didn't turn on when I turned the ignition switch. It was a hotter day and thought maybe it was a fluke because after 2 tries on turning the key off and then cranking it came on.
With key on, Does your wait for glow plug light and getting power to all accessories on your dash come on?
Your dash show the proper shifter position?

Does the "security" light stay on or flash?
Try to start truck, then release key DO NOT TURN OFF.
After exactly 10 minutes, the security light should go off.
Try to start truck, then release key DO NOT TURN OFF.
After exactly 10 minutes, the security light should go off.
Try to start truck, then release key DO NOT TURN OFF.
After exactly 10 minutes, the truck should start.

Last edited by Rvn4me; 06-11-2018 at 07:56 AM.
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Old 06-11-2018, 11:19 AM   #9 (permalink)
skylord64
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@rvn4me thanks, tried it this morning and the truck starts up great but it's also been a little cooler here. All Power comes on, the only one that doesn't come on is the check engine light. That's when it doesn't crank.

Would the cam position sensor cause that? No codes are being thrown at start or during operation. Where are the cam position sensors at? I know the crank position sensor is on the front with the lmm but I'm not sure where the cms are. Thanks again for the input!
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Old 06-12-2018, 05:52 AM   #10 (permalink)
oldschoolbowtie
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good luck with this gremlin

it will work out in the end



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2007.5 3500HD Silverado LTZ
Kennedy Custom Tune Banks Intake and 4 " exhaust, Air Dog 150, Leveled front end, aftermarket upper control arms, tie rod end sleeves, bypass oil filter, Pusher 3" "hot side" charger tube, aFe Turbo inlet pipe, PPE deep Trans Pan with temp gage, 2 low mod for front differential disable, PACBRAKE 5000# Air Bags with remote on board air...otherwise stock


1953 Chevy truck 496 2 NOS kits ...otherwise stock


1927 Roadster 383 2 NOS kits chassis car (street legal)// otherwise stock
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