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Duramax Third Generation: 2006-2007.5 (LBZ & LLY) Discuss the third generation (2006-2007.5 LBZ & LLY) of the 6.6L Duramax diesel engine & associated components. 2006 LLY engine discussion also belongs in this forum due to the similarities of the 2006 LBZ and the 2006 LLY. Engine related discussion ONLY.

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Old 10-16-2019, 08:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
67ss
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need diesel help please any master techs out there

i have a 2007 chevy silverado 6.6 turbo diesel it has been down for about 6 months cannot drive in reduced power mode due to a code po101 maf .i have replaced MAF with genuine gm one,egr valve,new dry air filter,have looked over all intake boots,boxes and lines no leaks,pcv lines complete,tried a new MAP sensor.still no change my only thing left is the ECM does anyone know how i can test the ecm to guarentee thats it i have wasted so much money trying to fix.cant afford to waste anymore if wont fix it.please any help or ideas.here are the OBD scanner readings i took after map sensor replacement hopefully they can help .at a idle warm ECT83(c),MAP87kpa,engine rpm 710,tps14.1%,MAF41.03(g/s),IAT22(c),fuel pressure31840(kpa),MILdis2(km),catTe12 500c,cat Te11 19c,BARO99kpa,Clr dist 2km,Ambient 13c,Rel tps 100.0%,Eq ratio 0.625,Ecu volts 14.486v .if anyone has delt with or notices something out of place please let me know.or how i can test the ECM to confirm its bad.please any help i really need it fixed thank you

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Old 10-16-2019, 09:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Relocated over to the LBZ section of the forum for more appropriate answers to your issue.



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Old 10-17-2019, 08:33 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Is your truck tuned? If so, flash it back to stock and see if any other codes pop up.I had a very similar situation and the only code at first was P0101. Did similar things as you such as replacing the MAF, to no effect. Upon reflashing it back to stock and driving a short distance it also popped an underboost code, this helped me narrow it down and it ended up being the turbo.
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Old 10-17-2019, 06:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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no its bone stock no upgrades or mods .thank you
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Old 10-19-2019, 12:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Just a thought...have you considered puling the battery cables off for 5-10 minutes or so.?? Only takes 5 min and no cost. Ya never know - I've seen stranger things.

As for your OBD Scan readings...may have better luck using Imperial..? Most of the guys here are US Based.?

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Old 10-19-2019, 02:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
Ron Nielson
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Here is step #1 for you:

Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the MAF/IAT sensor.
Ignition OFF and scan tool disconnected for 90 seconds, test for less than 5 ohms between the MAF low reference circuit terminal 2 and ground.

If greater than the specified range, test the low reference circuit for an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.

Ignition OFF and scan tool disconnected for 90 seconds, test for less than 5 ohms between the IAT sensor low reference circuit terminal 4 and ground.

If greater than the specified range, test the IAT sensor low reference circuit for an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.

Ignition ON, verify that a test lamp illuminates between the ignition 1 voltage circuit terminal 3 and ground.

If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the ignition circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance.

Ignition ON, test for 4.8-5.2 volts between the signal circuit terminal 1 and ground.

If less than the specified range, test the MAF signal circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
If greater than the specified range, test the MAF signal circuit for a short to voltage. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
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Old 10-19-2019, 04:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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thank you i will try anything right now to get it going.thanks ron i found this test on another site and it was by you.i performed all of this and everything checked ok and says replace the ecm from your test.so i will do it again to confirm.my question is there a pin test or something i can verify the ecm is faulty ive thrown so much at it im kinda scared to replace the ecm and have it do the same thing.thank you so much for all your input i will recheck and let you know thank you again
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Old 10-19-2019, 09:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If you checked not only the tests specified but made SURE there are no shorts to power or ground, no frayed wires, no corrosion at the connectors, etc, there is really no need to test myriad of other pins on the ECM because if the ECM won't support the requirements of the MAF/Iat sensor which are required for a running, working engine, the truck just won't run correctly, ever. I suggest you contact John Kennedy at (715) 255-9433 who can provide a pre-programmed ECM specifically for your vin# at a very reasonable price. If he thinks you need a new ECM, you need a new ECM.

When you receive your replacement, all you have to do is to turn key off, unplug your old ECM and plug in the new ECM. Turn on and start your truck. It's that simple.
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Old 10-20-2019, 07:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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thank you ron.so the only reason i can say the ecm is cause of the 2 tests maf low term2 to ground and iat low term 4 to ground to check for 5 ohms or less tested at 6 ohms.other than that was all in specs.i cleared the code and test drove this morning the reduced power did not come on. but the po101 set within a mile it ran good but i noticed it was blowing alot of black smoke when i accelerated.thank you again ron
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Old 10-21-2019, 08:34 AM   #10 (permalink)
Ron Nielson
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Is it possible that there is some corrosion on the connector to the MAF/IOT? Or the corresponding connector at the ECM? Or perhaps the ECM ground to the body/engine? 1 ohm is a very small amount, but enough to make the circuit out of spec. Check for poorly fitting pins at the connectors, backed out pins, etc. I would buy, if not on hand, some Deoxit contact cleaner and spray those connections and grounds and see if you can get the resistance lowered a little. Way cheaper than a new ECM plus programming.

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