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Duramax Third Generation: 2006-2007.5 (LBZ & LLY) Discuss the third generation (2006-2007.5 LBZ & LLY) of the 6.6L Duramax diesel engine & associated components. 2006 LLY engine discussion also belongs in this forum due to the similarities of the 2006 LBZ and the 2006 LLY. Engine related discussion ONLY.

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Old 06-20-2016, 07:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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2006 LBZ Towing Motor Temp

I've been forum trolling around looking for some answers to the problem but can't seem to figure the problem out.


I live in Mesa AZ so anytime we head out of town you are climbing out of the valley. Since summer is in full swing I avoid towing in the heat of the day due to the long hill pulls out of town.


I'm the original owner of a '06 Chevy LBZ with 188k miles. The truck has been great since I have owned it. But this has me puzzled. The truck is all stock other than one size bigger tires, so this is all from the stock gauge cluster. The truck since new would run ~195 degree normal operating motor temp, and 210 towing my 28' toy hauler that weights 8500 empty and around 10k loaded. When towing the secondary thermostat would open the motor temp would get up to 220/230, the fan clutch would kick on then the motor temp would come back down to 210.


In the last few months during the winter the operating temp dropped to 165/170 degrees. I thought it was from the cooler temps, but when towing the motor temp would come up to normal towing temp of 210 and when the motor temp hits 230 the fan clutch would kick on with the motor temp staying at 225/230 degrees. I don't like to see temps like that!


Since then I started with having the coolant flushed. Back in May I took a trip north towing and had the same results with low operating temps, and high towing temp. So a week after that trip I changed out both thermostats, and the temperature sensor with OEM parts. Since changing out the t-stats and temp sensor the normal operating temp is back up to 195 degrees, that was a good sign.


This past weekend the family and I headed north with the trailer for some cool weather camping. The ambient temp was 90 degrees during the drive and I tow around 60/65 mph. The first hill out of town is a long gradual climb, the motor temp came up to 230, fan clutch kick on, but the temp stayed. I backed it down to 2000 RPM, the temp came down a few degrees, but not like it should.


I have heard I should have the radiator pulled, cleaned or replaced since there is 188k on the truck. I haven't cleaned the bugs and road grime, could this be it? What else is there? New fan clutch? How hard are these to replace?

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Old 06-20-2016, 07:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
floriduramax1
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Are you sure the T-stats were installed correctly? Mine was doing the same thing and then threw a code when it wouldn't get to operating temp. I changed the t-stats and realized the correct way to install them. Just a thought...

If you do change the clutch, I recommend using a factory replacement clutch, not aftermarket. I have always had problems with aftermarket clutches.

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Old 06-20-2016, 09:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You need to "CLEAN THE STACK" air has to go across the condenser, transmission cooler, intercooler and then the radiator. Bugs, oil residue and dirt accumulate and effectively block off flow. Most people never know just how dirty the stack is until it is taken apart to fix another problem. You can probably take the truck to a self serve car wash and spend a good amount of time spraying the stack being careful not to bend the fins. Pay close attention to cleaning the lower sections of the radiator and intercooler. Spray from grill towards engine and then from engine towards grill and use soap. The worst grime I have seen is on the driver's side down below the grill. Try to remove most of the bugs also, they impede air flow.
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Old 06-21-2016, 12:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floriduramax1 View Post
Are you sure the T-stats were installed correctly? Mine was doing the same thing and then threw a code when it wouldn't get to operating temp. I changed the t-stats and realized the correct way to install them. Just a thought...

This crossed my mind, but since the temp was high before replacing the t-stats, and I made sure to install the secondary t-stat with the bypass towards the back of the motor I crossed that off my list.


Quote:
Originally Posted by floriduramax1 View Post
If you do change the clutch, I recommend using a factory replacement clutch, not aftermarket. I have always had problems with aftermarket clutches.
Thanks for the info.
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Old 06-21-2016, 12:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.Camilleri View Post
You need to "CLEAN THE STACK" air has to go across the condenser, transmission cooler, intercooler and then the radiator. Bugs, oil residue and dirt accumulate and effectively block off flow. Most people never know just how dirty the stack is until it is taken apart to fix another problem. You can probably take the truck to a self serve car wash and spend a good amount of time spraying the stack being careful not to bend the fins. Pay close attention to cleaning the lower sections of the radiator and intercooler. Spray from grill towards engine and then from engine towards grill and use soap. The worst grime I have seen is on the driver's side down below the grill. Try to remove most of the bugs also, they impede air flow.

Ok I'll give that a shot. I was thinking I'd have to remove the stack to clean it. Thanks!
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Old 06-22-2016, 11:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Remove the plastic cover that blocks off the top of the radiator and intercooler. If you search around, you might be able to find a 90 degree head to fit on a wand to help clean the stack from in between the units.
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2018 Solitude 310GK fifth wheel with a 12' Haulmark tag trailer to haul toys in.

1997 Jeep TJ, Currie 8.8 high pinion axles front and rear with ARB air lockers, 4.56, 5 on 5.5 with warn hub kit, Atlas II transfer case with Klune V doubler, 4 inch Currie Lift and 35x12.50x15 Mickey Thompson MTZ on 15x10 Mickey Thompson wheels, Ramsey 9500 winch, hydraulic ram assist steering, on board welder and on board air, custom aluminum fuel tank.
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Old 06-23-2016, 12:05 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Sign up to see the pictures in this thread.


http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/ho...l-install.html
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Last edited by c20elephant; 06-23-2016 at 12:05 AM.
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Old 06-27-2016, 02:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.Camilleri View Post
Remove the plastic cover that blocks off the top of the radiator and intercooler. If you search around, you might be able to find a 90 degree head to fit on a wand to help clean the stack from in between the units.

Ok. Thanks for the tip. I took a look at what I need to clean and was wondering the best way to get in there to spray it out. It would be really nice to pull the grill off too, but not sure what that will take.






I haven't much chance to dig into this due to work and family. I hope to work on the stack this week and test it out this weekend with a short tow trip up a gradual grade.
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Old 06-27-2016, 02:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have just bought an 06 classic LBZ and on the first long up hill drag Temps got a bit high before the Bimetal clutch fan kicked in. I felt it was a bit high compared to my older gm. So off came the shields and I cleaned the stack. Then I remembered I had a similer problem with a 6.0 that turned out to be a dirty BImetal actuator on the fan. Remember it faces forward to the stack, and will build up with crud and needs a bit of care. I removed it cleaned and lubricated the the device. Problem went away. By the way you can test it on the bench by using a propane torch (very carefully) to watch the action. And most important don't lay it flat for long. Keep it vertical like it is in the truck. to keep the viscous fluid (silicon gel I think) from leaking to the wrong side.
Sorry for the long comment. Be safe Be happy
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Old 06-27-2016, 03:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by c20elephant View Post


Thanks. After reading 19 pages I think I'll be tearing the stack apart on this long 3 day weekend. Seems like all the symptoms listed are exactly what I have and should cure it.

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