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-   -   LBZ: I changed my #4 glow plug today (https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/140-duramax-third-generation-2006-2007-5-lbz-lly/775609-i-changed-my-4-glow-plug-today.html)

tjg 10-01-2015 04:10 PM

I changed my #4 glow plug today
 
A few days ago when I went to start my truck, glow plug light wouldn't turn off right away. Check engine light stayed on as well. I knew from past experience that it was time for another glow plug replacement.

I know I should've changed them all right from the get go, but I didn't. Plugged in the code reader and it confirmed. P0674 is what I got.

#4 is on the driver side right behind the steering shaft. 8mm is used to take off the nut, and 12mm is used to take out the glow plug.

Glow plug would not loosen. Tried and tried for about 45 minutes. Sprayed WD40 a few times ... to no avail. Did some research and found some people used PB blaster. Time to go to the auto parts store. On the way, I called my local shop to see how much they would charge to replace the glow plug in case I couldn't get it out. $100:jaw drop:

After getting the PB blaster, I got home and sprayed the glow plug and waited for about 5 minutes. Tried it again, nothing. Sprayed some more and waited another 5 minutes. Tried it again and it broke loose. :thumb:

Now, I ask myself "how in the hell am I going to get it out? The steering shaft is in the direct line of the glow plug." Well, unscrew it and try to angle it as much as I can ... sure enough, barely cleared the steering shaft. I applied some anti-seize to the new one and was able to put it in. All done and it really wasn't that bad at all.

I'm so happy that I was able to do it myself without having to resort to taking it into the shop.

MaximuSD 10-02-2015 08:47 PM

I've also done a few myself and it's a good feeling. I took the steering shaft off which is just 1 or 2 more little bolts. Makes that glow plug much easier going in and out so there are no angles. Mine is an 07 classic so might be different.

c20elephant 10-03-2015 08:45 AM

Loosening the steering shaft is the best way otherwise you run the risk of snapping the glow plug off. Just be sure when unhooking the steering shaft you tie it off with seatbelt to prevent the steering wheel from turning and thus breaking the SIR coil otherwise know as the clock spring which for the trucks with steering wheel controls just the spring runs about $300.00.

I recently gave up on PB blaster and purchased a Reusable Refillable Multipurpose Aerosol Spray Bottle and use a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid just have to be careful where you use it, lacquer thinner can be substituted.


https://app.aws.org/forum/topic_show.pl?tid=32013


69GTO2 10-24-2015 09:10 PM

Looks like #5 has failed. My first @ 61k. Is it better to change glow plugs after warming engine up?

Ron Nielson 10-24-2015 11:11 PM

Definitely, warm, not hot. And don't fail to use anti seize on the new plugs.

mebob 10-25-2015 04:40 PM

50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid if what i've used for a while now to get glow plugs out, but if your not an experienced with chemicals or you forget things then use PB blaster. if you do try this mixture then only use enough don't sit there spraying it all over the place and when it breaks free use brake cleaner and wash it all OFF.

and this works really good on the uppipe to manifold bolts

jd4230 10-25-2015 09:45 PM

Yea, I've got to do #4 and #6. Thanks for the tips.

mebob 11-01-2015 03:04 PM

let em soak, the longer it soaks the better the chance it will let go!

69GTO2 11-02-2015 07:38 PM

After hearing several horror stories was able to change all 8 no problems in just under 2 hrs. #2 was hardest due to intercooler tube. With u joint and half deep well socket was no need for removing steering shaft or ic hot tube although some concern on not being inline perpendicular figured I couldn't put much torque with a short handle 1/4" drive ratchet. I changed cold figuring aluminum expands more than the steel making fit tighter. Sprayed pb let engine warm up. Sprayed again. Let cool over night to wick in. Removing wheel wells seems to take the most time although much better than in sub zero degrees and snow packed with gelled filter and the o ring gasket from hell. Now to find some frozen fasteners on something to try the acetone trans fluid on. Thx all.

mebob 11-07-2015 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69GTO2 (Post 7816618)
After hearing several horror stories was able to change all 8 no problems in just under 2 hrs. #2 was hardest due to intercooler tube. With u joint and half deep well socket was no need for removing steering shaft or ic hot tube although some concern on not being inline perpendicular figured I couldn't put much torque with a short handle 1/4" drive ratchet. I changed cold figuring aluminum expands more than the steel making fit tighter. Sprayed pb let engine warm up. Sprayed again. Let cool over night to wick in. Removing wheel wells seems to take the most time although much better than in sub zero degrees and snow packed with gelled filter and the o ring gasket from hell. Now to find some frozen fasteners on something to try the acetone trans fluid on. Thx all.

right on dude, i've also heard of guys getting the engine up to temp and spraying with pb blaster and then putting ice cubes or dry ice on the tip of the plug to make it contract and give room between treads to get the PB in there, no idea if it helps but the theory makes sence


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