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Allison OEM Discuss repairing & maintaining an OEM Allison automatic transmission.

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Old 05-09-2018, 04:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
Ron Nielson
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Mobil Delvac Synthetic ATF TES-295

Summit Racing has a pretty good deal on 4 gallons of this TES-295 synthetic ATF. $117.99 delivered to your door. That's about $29.50 per gallon. I was going to delay my HOOT method flush for another year, but with price this low, now is the time.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mob-122062

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Old 05-09-2018, 07:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Good deal for good stuff. That's what I run in all 3 Allisons my business owns, and the Powerstroke for that matter.

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Old 08-05-2018, 04:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
calstar
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Thanks for the info, ordered the 4 gallons, got it in 3 days, this is a great deal.

Brian
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Old 08-05-2018, 08:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I double dumped my LML at 14k miles with the Delvac.... it's now at 95k, it it looks like the day it went it.

Transyn turns a funky orange.... not Delvac. It's good stuff.
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Old 08-05-2018, 08:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
AlisoBob
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Originally Posted by TruckLover63 View Post
Good deal for good stuff. That's what I run in all 3 Allisons my business owns, and the Powerstroke for that matter.
My daughters BMW has a GM based (6L45)auto trans in it. Same as the Caddy CTS.

I double dumped some Delvac in there.... shift quality and selection improved instantly.

I highly recommend this to all BMW owners, with this transmission.
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Old 08-05-2018, 11:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
calstar
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Originally Posted by AlisoBob View Post

I double dumped some Delvac in there.... .
What is "double dumped"?

thanks, Brian
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Old 08-05-2018, 11:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Drain, replace both filters... drive around the block and drain and refill again. You swap out about 90% of the fluid this way.
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Old 08-05-2018, 11:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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just so I'm clear on this......after draining and replacing the filters you drive around the block without adding new trans fluid, no damage correct? Driving around the block helps get most of the fluid still in the trans cooler, torque converter, etc. into the pan for more draining? You do this in Drive?

thanks, Brian
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Old 08-06-2018, 01:25 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calstar View Post
just so I'm clear on this......after draining and replacing the filters you drive around the block without adding new trans fluid, no damage correct? Driving around the block helps get most of the fluid still in the trans cooler, torque converter, etc. into the pan for more draining? You do this in Drive?

thanks, Brian
NO!!! He means drain, replace filter, refill with ATF, drive around the block, drain, refill with ATF.
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Old 08-06-2018, 02:01 AM   #10 (permalink)
AlisoBob
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It should go like this.....once you have all your fluid and filters ready. You probably have the short pan, so you need the short filter and order a extra filter magnet, in case yours is missing.The pan gasket is reusable.

1. Remove spin on, and let drain. Dont lose the magnet ( if its there)
2. Remove drain plug on pan, and let drain.
3. Remove the pan, and remove the filter. Fluid will gush out, so be ready.
4. Replace the pan with two bolts to keep any dirt out, and go have lunch while the valve body and torque converter drain down. Give it a hour, minimum.
5. Install new internal filter, wipe out the pan and gasket, and screw in the drain plug. The pan will have a small rectangle magnet it in. Clean this off too. If your spin on filter had the magnet attached, take the magnet you bought, and toss it in the pan , kitty corner from the rectangle one.
6. Install the pan, and install ALL the bolts using hand tools only before you tighten any of them up.Then tighten then in a criss-cross pattern
7. Install spin on, with a clean magnet.
8. Dump all the old fluid into a 5 gallon bucket. Guesstimate how full the bucket is.This will give you an idea of how much fluid to put back in. It should be around 9.5 quarts, depending on how much the torque converter drained down.
9. Add the fluid, start it up, and check the dipstick. You dont need to set the fluid level exactly right just yet, just get it about 1/2 way between the cold full, and the hot full and check for any leaks, and go for a quick drive. 5 minutes is plenty.
10. Drain the pan again. This will remove the old oil from the cooler, and whatever was still in the converter and valve body.Reinstall the drain plug.
11. Again, dump this oil into a 5 gallon bucket to guesstimate the volume. This "drain only" amount, should be about 7 quarts.
12. Add 1 quart less than what you think came out. It should be 6 quarts. The reason being is you dont want to overfill it. You just want to get it close.
13. Add the oil, and start it up. The level should be right near the bottom of the stick. This is exactly what you want.
14. Go for a longer drive, like 10 minutes, and check the fluid level. It should have come up the stick a little with the expansion from heat. If it didnt , add some fluid to bring it up to the full cold mark, or just over.
15. Go for a longer drive, like 20 minutes,to bring the trans fluid to full operating temperature. Check the fluid level again, and bring it up to just below the full hot mark. I say just under...... as slightly under is allot better than any amount over full.

And your done! You replaced about 90% of the fluid with this double dump, and you dont have to do it again for 100,000 miles!


Last edited by AlisoBob; 08-06-2018 at 02:10 AM.
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