Thanks to the writeup by TheBak, found here:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=214076
I had a good idea of what I needed to complete the job. Armed with TheBac's directions, I undertook the job, taking pictures as I went, and making occasional changes.
Here is the TCM. I didn't unplug it. I just let it lay off to the side.
There are four 10mm bolts holding the top of the fan shroud, the two on the driver's side hold the TCM. There are also four plastic push fasteners that connect the top of the shroud to the bottom. I replaced mine with the pictured philips-head fasteners.
Getting the factory ones out is a pain without a special tool. I find it easier to just replace the factory ones with something like this.
Here is the big nut that holds the fan to the pulley. I made a wedge with some rubber material for a good grip. Using a large adjustable wrench, it came off easily.
You can also use a hammer and chisel in place of the air hammer suggested by TheBac. You might use this before the wedge just to loosen things up.
The fan is off.
Here is the fan pulley, front and back.
This connector goes through the hole on the fan pulley. It needs to be removed before you remove the fan pulley.
This tool combination is well worth the money. Since you need the 12 point socket anyway, it isn't much more for this kit with the socket and locking tool. Using this tool means the starter remains untouched. The part with the screw is for 4500 and 5500 trucks. The cost was about $43.00 shipped. I will be happy to send anyone this tool so they can use it. Contact me with a PM for details.
Here is a link to the tool.
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-22100.aspx
To insert the tool you remove this inspection plate on the front of the transmission near the transmission filter. It just bends in the middle and pops out.
Here is the opening. The locking tool just slides in.
Now it was time to go after the bolt holding the balancer. I had a choice of tools. I went with the torque wrench...a really BIG torque wrench. My size 11 flip flop gives you an idea of the actual size: 40 inches! I borrowed this from a friend.
Even with this manly tool, I needed to sit on top of the engine, brace my feet on the the inside of the engine compartment and pull REALLY HARD. I had set the torque wrench to 300 ft/lbs to get an idea of how tight the bolt was. It clicked at 300 with no results, and needed an estimated 400 ft/lbs to break it loose. Here is the harmonic balancer. It slid right off. Note that it has a notch that aligns with the pin in the following picture.
Here is the nut that requires the removal of the balancer.
If you are unfortunate enough to have hoses like mine, get ready for some real PITA work. My stock hoses, which I had decided to replace, had the spring clamps molded onto the hoses. This means that when you finally get the very strong hose clamps squeezed with pliers, you still can't get the hose off. After I felt the molded part, I was able to cut it off and remove the clamp. When you cut off the molded part, cut it level with the hose or you'll struggle to get the clamp out of the molded area. Since I was replacing my hoses, I'd cut them off near the clamp to make the job easier. Hose clamp pliers are really helpful with this job. I could not find a set at any of the four parts stores I tried. Here is a link to a set:
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-17100.aspx
Time to remove the pump housing. You start with the two bolts on the top of the house. They hold the flange that attaches the pipe that goes to the thermostat housing.
The short section of 3/8 inch hose looked like it needed to be replaced, and it was.
Time to remove the two nuts that connect to the pipe that goes to the oil cooler. The one on the engine-side (the red arrow) is easily accessed from under the front of the truck. The fender-side one (the blue arrow) can be accessed from the left front wheel well after you remove the wheel. You don't need to remove the fender liner.
You'll need a 12mm universal socket or a 12mm socket with a universal coupler. There is not enough room for a deepwell socket. 20'' of extensions was just right.
You can now remove the bolts and nut that hold the pump. It will take some manuevering to get it out. Be careful of o-ring that seals the pipe to the thermostat housing on the top of the pump. This o-ring did not come with my new pump so I re-used it. If you're not careful, it could get nicked.
My housing had the typical pitting caused by electrolosis.
My old pump had been leaking a small amount for a while. Initially you could just smell it, but eventually it leaked enough to leave some Dexcool on the ground. The old one had a rubber squeak when turned indicating the seal was failing.
My replacement pump came with an o-ring to seal the housing to the motor, but no o-ring for the pump to the housing. I reused my old one since it was in good condition. I also had to buy the gasket for the pump to the oil cooler pipe. That one did not come with the pump.
Re-assembly is straight forward, but getting the pump into place takes some work. Just go slow and be sure the o-ring on the pump housing stays in place. (Put the o-ring on the pump housing, not on the engine.) Before you start to wiggle the pump into place, be sure to slide the shorter bolt into hole since once the pump is in place the tube to the thermostat will be in the way.
A large adjustable wrench is used to tighten the fan to the pulley.
Time to put everything back together. The lower half of the fan shroud may have slipped out of place. Note how the two pictures differ. The first one shows the shroud seated correctly, while the other shows the shround out of the notch.
By far the hardest part of this job was removing the old hoses. The lower hose where it connects to the radiator was a real pain. Access is limited and the molded-in clamp was a challenge. I eventually cut the hose off and had to use a die-grinder to cut the clamp.
In case you were wondering, this is why the 36mm socket for the balancer has to be a 12 point.
Finally, don't forget to remove the locking tool and re-install the inspection door.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=214076
I had a good idea of what I needed to complete the job. Armed with TheBac's directions, I undertook the job, taking pictures as I went, and making occasional changes.
Here is the TCM. I didn't unplug it. I just let it lay off to the side.
There are four 10mm bolts holding the top of the fan shroud, the two on the driver's side hold the TCM. There are also four plastic push fasteners that connect the top of the shroud to the bottom. I replaced mine with the pictured philips-head fasteners.
Getting the factory ones out is a pain without a special tool. I find it easier to just replace the factory ones with something like this.
Here is the big nut that holds the fan to the pulley. I made a wedge with some rubber material for a good grip. Using a large adjustable wrench, it came off easily.
You can also use a hammer and chisel in place of the air hammer suggested by TheBac. You might use this before the wedge just to loosen things up.
The fan is off.
Here is the fan pulley, front and back.
This connector goes through the hole on the fan pulley. It needs to be removed before you remove the fan pulley.
This tool combination is well worth the money. Since you need the 12 point socket anyway, it isn't much more for this kit with the socket and locking tool. Using this tool means the starter remains untouched. The part with the screw is for 4500 and 5500 trucks. The cost was about $43.00 shipped. I will be happy to send anyone this tool so they can use it. Contact me with a PM for details.
Here is a link to the tool.
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-22100.aspx
To insert the tool you remove this inspection plate on the front of the transmission near the transmission filter. It just bends in the middle and pops out.
Here is the opening. The locking tool just slides in.
Now it was time to go after the bolt holding the balancer. I had a choice of tools. I went with the torque wrench...a really BIG torque wrench. My size 11 flip flop gives you an idea of the actual size: 40 inches! I borrowed this from a friend.
Even with this manly tool, I needed to sit on top of the engine, brace my feet on the the inside of the engine compartment and pull REALLY HARD. I had set the torque wrench to 300 ft/lbs to get an idea of how tight the bolt was. It clicked at 300 with no results, and needed an estimated 400 ft/lbs to break it loose. Here is the harmonic balancer. It slid right off. Note that it has a notch that aligns with the pin in the following picture.
Here is the nut that requires the removal of the balancer.
If you are unfortunate enough to have hoses like mine, get ready for some real PITA work. My stock hoses, which I had decided to replace, had the spring clamps molded onto the hoses. This means that when you finally get the very strong hose clamps squeezed with pliers, you still can't get the hose off. After I felt the molded part, I was able to cut it off and remove the clamp. When you cut off the molded part, cut it level with the hose or you'll struggle to get the clamp out of the molded area. Since I was replacing my hoses, I'd cut them off near the clamp to make the job easier. Hose clamp pliers are really helpful with this job. I could not find a set at any of the four parts stores I tried. Here is a link to a set:
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-17100.aspx
Time to remove the pump housing. You start with the two bolts on the top of the house. They hold the flange that attaches the pipe that goes to the thermostat housing.
The short section of 3/8 inch hose looked like it needed to be replaced, and it was.
Time to remove the two nuts that connect to the pipe that goes to the oil cooler. The one on the engine-side (the red arrow) is easily accessed from under the front of the truck. The fender-side one (the blue arrow) can be accessed from the left front wheel well after you remove the wheel. You don't need to remove the fender liner.
You'll need a 12mm universal socket or a 12mm socket with a universal coupler. There is not enough room for a deepwell socket. 20'' of extensions was just right.
You can now remove the bolts and nut that hold the pump. It will take some manuevering to get it out. Be careful of o-ring that seals the pipe to the thermostat housing on the top of the pump. This o-ring did not come with my new pump so I re-used it. If you're not careful, it could get nicked.
My housing had the typical pitting caused by electrolosis.
My old pump had been leaking a small amount for a while. Initially you could just smell it, but eventually it leaked enough to leave some Dexcool on the ground. The old one had a rubber squeak when turned indicating the seal was failing.
My replacement pump came with an o-ring to seal the housing to the motor, but no o-ring for the pump to the housing. I reused my old one since it was in good condition. I also had to buy the gasket for the pump to the oil cooler pipe. That one did not come with the pump.
Re-assembly is straight forward, but getting the pump into place takes some work. Just go slow and be sure the o-ring on the pump housing stays in place. (Put the o-ring on the pump housing, not on the engine.) Before you start to wiggle the pump into place, be sure to slide the shorter bolt into hole since once the pump is in place the tube to the thermostat will be in the way.
A large adjustable wrench is used to tighten the fan to the pulley.
Time to put everything back together. The lower half of the fan shroud may have slipped out of place. Note how the two pictures differ. The first one shows the shroud seated correctly, while the other shows the shround out of the notch.
By far the hardest part of this job was removing the old hoses. The lower hose where it connects to the radiator was a real pain. Access is limited and the molded-in clamp was a challenge. I eventually cut the hose off and had to use a die-grinder to cut the clamp.
In case you were wondering, this is why the 36mm socket for the balancer has to be a 12 point.
Finally, don't forget to remove the locking tool and re-install the inspection door.