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Detailed water pump replacement with pictures

181K views 153 replies 88 participants last post by  jake111 
#1 ·
Thanks to the writeup by TheBak, found here:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=214076
I had a good idea of what I needed to complete the job. Armed with TheBac's directions, I undertook the job, taking pictures as I went, and making occasional changes.

Here is the TCM. I didn't unplug it. I just let it lay off to the side.




There are four 10mm bolts holding the top of the fan shroud, the two on the driver's side hold the TCM. There are also four plastic push fasteners that connect the top of the shroud to the bottom. I replaced mine with the pictured philips-head fasteners.


Getting the factory ones out is a pain without a special tool. I find it easier to just replace the factory ones with something like this.




Here is the big nut that holds the fan to the pulley. I made a wedge with some rubber material for a good grip. Using a large adjustable wrench, it came off easily.


You can also use a hammer and chisel in place of the air hammer suggested by TheBac. You might use this before the wedge just to loosen things up.


The fan is off.




Here is the fan pulley, front and back.




This connector goes through the hole on the fan pulley. It needs to be removed before you remove the fan pulley.


This tool combination is well worth the money. Since you need the 12 point socket anyway, it isn't much more for this kit with the socket and locking tool. Using this tool means the starter remains untouched. The part with the screw is for 4500 and 5500 trucks. The cost was about $43.00 shipped. I will be happy to send anyone this tool so they can use it. Contact me with a PM for details.


Here is a link to the tool.
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-22100.aspx

To insert the tool you remove this inspection plate on the front of the transmission near the transmission filter. It just bends in the middle and pops out.




Here is the opening. The locking tool just slides in.






Now it was time to go after the bolt holding the balancer. I had a choice of tools. I went with the torque wrench...a really BIG torque wrench. My size 11 flip flop gives you an idea of the actual size: 40 inches! I borrowed this from a friend.


Even with this manly tool, I needed to sit on top of the engine, brace my feet on the the inside of the engine compartment and pull REALLY HARD. I had set the torque wrench to 300 ft/lbs to get an idea of how tight the bolt was. It clicked at 300 with no results, and needed an estimated 400 ft/lbs to break it loose. Here is the harmonic balancer. It slid right off. Note that it has a notch that aligns with the pin in the following picture.




Here is the nut that requires the removal of the balancer.


If you are unfortunate enough to have hoses like mine, get ready for some real PITA work. My stock hoses, which I had decided to replace, had the spring clamps molded onto the hoses. This means that when you finally get the very strong hose clamps squeezed with pliers, you still can't get the hose off. After I felt the molded part, I was able to cut it off and remove the clamp. When you cut off the molded part, cut it level with the hose or you'll struggle to get the clamp out of the molded area. Since I was replacing my hoses, I'd cut them off near the clamp to make the job easier. Hose clamp pliers are really helpful with this job. I could not find a set at any of the four parts stores I tried. Here is a link to a set:
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-17100.aspx


Time to remove the pump housing. You start with the two bolts on the top of the house. They hold the flange that attaches the pipe that goes to the thermostat housing.


The short section of 3/8 inch hose looked like it needed to be replaced, and it was.


Time to remove the two nuts that connect to the pipe that goes to the oil cooler. The one on the engine-side (the red arrow) is easily accessed from under the front of the truck. The fender-side one (the blue arrow) can be accessed from the left front wheel well after you remove the wheel. You don't need to remove the fender liner.




You'll need a 12mm universal socket or a 12mm socket with a universal coupler. There is not enough room for a deepwell socket. 20'' of extensions was just right.


You can now remove the bolts and nut that hold the pump. It will take some manuevering to get it out. Be careful of o-ring that seals the pipe to the thermostat housing on the top of the pump. This o-ring did not come with my new pump so I re-used it. If you're not careful, it could get nicked.


My housing had the typical pitting caused by electrolosis.


My old pump had been leaking a small amount for a while. Initially you could just smell it, but eventually it leaked enough to leave some Dexcool on the ground. The old one had a rubber squeak when turned indicating the seal was failing.


My replacement pump came with an o-ring to seal the housing to the motor, but no o-ring for the pump to the housing. I reused my old one since it was in good condition. I also had to buy the gasket for the pump to the oil cooler pipe. That one did not come with the pump.

Re-assembly is straight forward, but getting the pump into place takes some work. Just go slow and be sure the o-ring on the pump housing stays in place. (Put the o-ring on the pump housing, not on the engine.) Before you start to wiggle the pump into place, be sure to slide the shorter bolt into hole since once the pump is in place the tube to the thermostat will be in the way.

A large adjustable wrench is used to tighten the fan to the pulley.


Time to put everything back together. The lower half of the fan shroud may have slipped out of place. Note how the two pictures differ. The first one shows the shroud seated correctly, while the other shows the shround out of the notch.




By far the hardest part of this job was removing the old hoses. The lower hose where it connects to the radiator was a real pain. Access is limited and the molded-in clamp was a challenge. I eventually cut the hose off and had to use a die-grinder to cut the clamp.


In case you were wondering, this is why the 36mm socket for the balancer has to be a 12 point.


Finally, don't forget to remove the locking tool and re-install the inspection door.
 
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#104 ·
ok thanks i just know in the LS world you need one
 
#105 ·
Well my 02 decided to start leaking recently so it looks like I may be the next one doing the water pump. First thing I need to do is have it pressured tested to verify that is the problem. It is hard to tell from looking at it if it is leaking from the pump, lower hose or elsewhere while laying on the ground.
I am trying to put together a complete list of everything I will need if it is the water pump.
What has been decided as the best non dealer replacement water pump to get?
I will go ahead and replace both thermostats and both hoses since it will be torn apart already. I need a list of all gaskets and o-rings I will need.
I will purchase the Lisle tool so that I do not have to pull the starter.
Are people still having problems with hearing a whine?
Thanks
 
#106 ·
It is hard to tell from looking at it if it is leaking from the pump, lower hose or elsewhere while laying on the ground.
Figure this out before you buy a bunch of parts and supplies. If it's leaking from the pump, it will be obvious. There is a weep hole on the underside (I think...it's been a while) of the "nose" of the pump. Try and put your eyeballs on it or feel around and find it and see if it's wet. Once you see it, it will be obvious.

I would guess that's it. Far more likely than a hose or something else, but I would still verify it first.
 
#107 ·
In the middle of taking apart my '05 LLY and all the directions so far match up. Ordered o-rings and lisle tool from Merchant. Fan came off easily and will tackle balancer bolt in morning.
Quick question, why no just remove pipe to thermostat before removing pump and than install after new pump is in place? I have all new o-rings and will try this way tomorrow.
 
#109 ·
I went ahead and removed the black thermostat pipe before removing pump and than installed it with new o-rings after putting new pump in. Everything went together pretty well and there are no leaks after several days. The one bad thing is that my Autozone pump does have a slight whine when running.
 
#108 ·
Moved to DIY - thanks for the great write-up!
 
#112 · (Edited)
Thanks so much for this write up. My diesel mechanic friend and I used it to replace my water pump yesterday. We had trouble with finding a replacement part for that small hose on the black "pipe". I do have a leak there or at the top of the black pipe. Hopefully autozone will have replacement parts that don't need to be ordered again (effers closed at 4pm). Thanks again for the write up, it was a ton of fun and saved me at least 1k, even after paying my buddy several hundy to help me.

And congrats to anyone who got it done 3hours or less. That's impressive!
 
#113 · (Edited)
This probably isn't the place for this question, but since we are all looking at coolant leaks around this area I was wondering if anyone know's what the tube is that runs down on the left hand side of the harmonic pulley? It appears to go up and the left close to an aluminum housing with etchings in it. The device does have a idler on it as well.

I am experiencing coolant leakage from that device. I have a hell of a time finding stuff like this online.

Anyone have any input? See pic

Auto part Tire Wheel Automotive wheel system Rim
 
#114 ·
I always thought that was the AC Condenser moisture downspout but was surprised to find the liquid red'ish and sweet.
 
#115 ·
'05 LLY Water Pump Replacement

I have an '05 LLY with 78k miles and I have been whiffing a faint coolant smell occasionally when opening the hood or near the engine; never any drips and no obvious loss of coolant from the overflow tank. Just to be safe before my last trip I asked my dealer to inspect and they said it was definitely the water pump, and for the water pump and both thermostats they quoted over $2,100!!! I will get a couple of additional estimates, but this looks to be very expensive.

The DIY write-up is excellent but beyond my experience level; any chance anyone that has successfully changed one lives in the northern Virginia area and willing to make some money changing mine?
 
#116 · (Edited)
I have an '05 LLY with 78k miles and I have been whiffing a faint coolant smell occasionally when opening the hood or near the engine; never any drips and no obvious loss of coolant from the overflow tank. Just to be safe before my last trip I asked my dealer to inspect and they said it was definitely the water pump, and for the water pump and both thermostats they quoted over $2,100!!! I will get a couple of additional estimates, but this looks to be very expensive.

The DIY write-up is excellent but beyond my experience level; any chance anyone that has successfully changed one lives in the northern Virginia area and willing to make some money changing mine?
If you don't get a response here be sure to check with some independent garages in your area. The dealer price is way out of line.
 
#118 ·
This is a great thread! Got mine hammered out in just a few hours!! Be careful of the oring on the top of the pipe on top of the water pump though. Biggest hangup I had
 
#119 ·
I just did mine tonight. HUGE THANKS to Flagstaff and TheBak for their excellent write-ups. :hail: I utilized both. I got the job done, at a leisurely pace, in about 3 1/2 hours. Its a pretty basic job, but does require some skill. I rate the skill level at a 6-7 out of 10.

Some of my findings and tips:

I broke the balancer bolt loose using a breaker bar with a 4 foot "leverage extender". Still took some considerable effort.

I used the plastic coolant drain screw on the passenger side of the radiator. Quick tip, loosen the radiator cap on top first to let the pressure out. Then re-seal the cap and loosen the drain screw, it will start seeping out. If you unscrew the cap it will start flowing pretty quick. I put a bucket under the drain, then used a 2" (or bigger) PVC elbow to redirect the flow. I held the elbow in the stream and then reached up and loosened the screw, had her drained in under a minute with very little mess. I had to remove the inner wheel fender to do this.

For the bolts going to the oil cooler, I ended up removing the drivers side wheel, inner fender, and the turbo pipe. That allowed me extremely easy access to the nut and helped when it came time to scrap the gasket. Only add about 5 minutes to the whole thing.

It was pretty straight forward, I wish I would have done my first one 100,000 miles ago instead of paying the mechanic $800 in labor.:eek:

DieselPlace.com wins again! Thanks guys!
 
#121 ·
I got mine at Napa, not sure of the brand, it was just a basic one. No whine at all.
 
#122 ·
I just want to thank TheBac and flagstaff for all the excellent info and photos I did this yesterday on my driveway and because of the detailed info and photos it was easy and I would recommend anyone with basic mechanic skills to do this its not near as difficult as I expected it to be.




05 LLY
 
#123 · (Edited)
ZF GUYS-----------------just a helpful tip, i found out after i got the flywheel lock tool you can't use it on a manual transmission. theres a inspection hole on the passenger side of the bellhousing you have to stick a punch or screwdriver through and try to catch the pressure plate or flywheel that way. i called the company that makes the tool and i asked him where the heck to put it on and the first thing he asked me is if it was an auto or a manual. and then he told me it wouldn't work and explained the proper procedure to me.
 
#124 ·
Can that crossover pipe on the bottom be easily removed altogether?? I did this two weeks ago but I must not have done a good enough job scraping the old gasket on the crossover pipe. The d@m thing is seeping! Lost about a 1/4 gallon in two weeks. Thinking about pulling it apart and sealing it better.
 
#126 ·
Hey a helpful tip to this, if you have a little over 24" of extensions you can get that top oil cooler nut off from accessing adjacent to the oil filter. This is easy with a 12mm socket with the nuckle coupler to get the angle. Since it is only at 16 ft lbs comes right off.

Good luck, half way through mine, need two studs for the new housing.
 
#127 ·
2 hrs. 13 mins. start to finish. Could have made 2 hrs. even but the oil cooler pipe nut wasn't playing nice. Everything came apart perfectly, including the balancer bolt. I used the bar on p/s frame method which we've used on our desert race trucks since 78 ;o) Great write up guys, could not have done it without you. Saved a quoted 900.00 +.
 
#128 ·
Thanks to the guys that wrote this up, helped out tremendously. My dad and I had the afternoon off yesterday and we got it done! One thing, we noticed that helped getting the two water pump bolts off easier was using a 1/4" ratchet and 12mm socket on the bolts. All we did was take the fender liner out, and tire off, shoved my hand over top of the boost tube and boom easy access.

Also I made a huge mistake by mixing my coolant with another brand because I was in a bind, and learned the hard way that you can't mix dexcool with green coolAnt. So now I have to drain The system out and put all new dexcool in.
 
#130 ·
After a long day, I am very happy with my results. I was able to remove everything from the bumper to the block and replace the water pump. With everything out, I also cleaned all the radiators, (4 of them). The Coolant Radiator was totally clogged up even though I clean them from the front 2 times a year. Taking the Radiator out was really the only way to clean it properly. I also replaced the serpentine belt. I did have to buy the Lisle 22100 Flywheel Hold tool. That was a life saver.

I will say another tool that was a life saver was a flywheel removing tool set. It looks like an open end wrench that has a 18-20" rod that attaches to the end. You then use a phenumatic impact gun and with the fan clutch holder the fan came right off.

As for the harmonic ballancer removal. That was really hard. The Lisle 22100 came with teh 36mm socket. I used a 4' breaker bar and it took all my strenght to break it off and then put it back on.

Another good tool to have that I used a lot is the clip removal tool. There are many of those stupid plastic clips holding things in and also the other wires that are cliped to things al over the engine bay.
 
#131 ·
Awesome write up, took me just under three hours (with help from a buddy). Bought a pump from "Merchant" that came with all the gaskets and o-rings, including both top and bottom of the thermostat pipe. Little more expensive but they did a nice job tig welding the gear and impeller to the shaft and it runs nice and quiet, not sure if it's an OEM or not but so far so good. The only hiccup was my large adjustable wrench was too big to fit between the fan blade and the pulley so I had to remove the fan bolts to get a touch more room, other than that everything was was easy after reading the write-up and the tips from other posts, Thanks!
 
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