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Old 01-09-2010, 02:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
Green Machine
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,689

Don't really have pictures of the complete EGR delete as there are a couple ways to do it...

Items Needed:
  • 3/8" metric socket set
  • Computer Reflash (depending on what you do - read further)
  • An "F" Intake (Method 1)
  • Dremel (optional)
  • Frost Plug (Method 2)
Items you can Delete:
  • Vacuum Pump (If TurboMaster installed)
  • EGR (If using F intake)
  • All Vacuum Lines
  • EGR Solenoids (read further for more information about this)

Removing Vacuum Pump
  • Remove Serpentine Belt
  • Unbolt AC Compressor (96+ not needed)
    • On 96+ Just unbolt the Vacuum pump through the holes in the pulley
  • Unbolt AC Compressor Bracket and unbolt the Vacuum pump from it (3 bolts)
  • Remove the vacuum lines from the vacuum pump to the solenoids, and to the wastegate/EGR.
  • Install the AC Compressor and the Bracket
Solenoids and Sensors
  • On 94-95 Models
    • If you have a reflashed EPROM that has EGR Delete function on it, you can remove all three solenoids completely.
    • If you have stock programming or an aftermarket reflashed EPROM that does not have an EGR Delete function you may have to keep the sensors plugged into the computer. You can try to unplug them but it may throw an Check Engine light.
  • On 96+ Models
    • "I think" you have to have a reflashed computer or else it will throw codes/check engine light. I'm not 100% sure on this but you can try removing the vacuum lines from the solenoids and see what happens.
    • If the truck throws a check engine light it shouldn't hurt the trucks performance but you will have the annoying orange light up all the time.
  • Those trucks that are equipped with a BARO sensor, you must keep this sensor plugged into the computer or you will get a check engine light.
  • You can also try to get a donor computer from an F truck, but you have to make sure the codes on the eprom (on 94-95) and all the specs are the same on the donor ecm as your truck.
Serpentine Belt Sizes
  • 1994-1995: 101" - 101.5"
  • 1996+: 99.5"
  • Basic rule of thumb is ~1" shorter then stock belt size when removing vacuum pump.
Method 1: (Using an F Intake)
  • Remove the top 6 bolts, unclamp the boot and unbolt the bar that connects to the turbo. Then remove the upper intake
  • Remove all the bolts from the lower intake. Keep note on how the injector line clamps are placed and where the longer and shorter bolts are placed. Then remove the old intake.
  • Remove the old gasket and replace with a new gasket. No sealer should be required for this, just the gasket.
  • Put the new intake in place, making sure not to mess up the gasket you just installed. It "may" take some maneuvering to get it in the right place.
  • Bolt down the lower intake to the correct specs and correct sequence. See attached picture for information. Upper Intake Torque Spec: 31 ft lbs.
    • Make sure you install all bolt lengths in the correct holes and make sure you install the injector line clamps.
  • Install upper intake (and new gasket) and connect/clamp the boot and bolt down the bar that connects to the turbo. Install all 6 bolts on the upper intake, torqued to 17 ft lbs.
Method 2: (Blocking off EGR)
  • Remove the top 6 bolts, unclamp the boot and unbolt the bar that connects to the turbo. Then remove the upper intake.
  • Install the frost plug in the middle hole where the EGR sits on the lower intake.
  • This would be a good time to de-web the upper intake out for better flow.
  • Install upper intake (and new gasket) and connect/clamp the boot and bolt down the bar that connects to the turbo. Install all 6 bolts on the upper intake, torqued to 17 ft lbs.
    • You will have to keep the EGR on unless you modifiy it
    • To modify it, you have to weld a piece of aluminum to cover the hole. You may be able to just be able to use a place with the egr gasket, but i'm not sure
Other Information
  • If removing vacuum pump, make sure all devices that use the vacuum pump are converted. This can include the following:
    • EGR System
    • WasteGate
    • HVAC Controls (normally only on vans).
  • I personally like HeathDiesels reflash with the EGR Delete, but KennedyDiesels reflash is just as good (from what I hear)
  • Always take your time and do stuff right the first time. No need to do things twice.
  • Here is information on an EGR Dummy Circuit
I personally prefer METHOD 1 over the other method.

The images below describe the following (in order):
  • Lower Intake Bolt sizes and info
  • Intake Torque Sequence
  • F and S Intake Comparison
  • Before Pics of my truck (yes.. I have/had leaks lol)
  • After Intake replacement (Method 1)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Intake Stud-Bolt Info.jpg (39.3 KB, 2107 views)
File Type: gif IntakeSequence.gif (7.7 KB, 1702 views)
File Type: jpg IntakeComparison.jpg (208.1 KB, 3124 views)
File Type: jpg Before.jpg (123.3 KB, 6036 views)
File Type: jpg After Method 1.jpg (85.8 KB, 7272 views)
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Last edited by OkDually; 08-31-2018 at 10:56 AM.
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