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Coolingmist stage 2 install on 6.5td

4K views 14 replies 3 participants last post by  oil pan 4 
#1 · (Edited)
Here is my coolingmist WMI that I have installed on my burb.

I made my own tank out of aluminum that I had laying around.

It holds 18.7 gallons and is 12"x36"x10".

The square being welded inside the tank surrounds the float sensor and will help keep accurate readiings by keeping the sloshing water from bouncing the float up and down .
 

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#2 ·
Here are pics of the fittings that are positioned in place for filling/venting and the feed line for the system.
 

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#3 · (Edited)
This is the controller that makes it all work.

It displays boost and duty cycle of the pump and I also have the auto learn system and it will shut the pump down if there is a problem, such as pressure to high/low, low fluid level, clogged injector and so on and will display the code on the gauge.
 

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#4 · (Edited)
These are the solenoids and injectors.
 

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#5 · (Edited)
I just came back from a trial run on the first stage injector [2gph] and it makes a difference.

Straight water starting at 1lb.of boost and coming on full at about 6 lbs. it kept the EGTs at 1,100* at WOT.

I added a gallon of WW and it rose to 1,150* at WOT but felt better and a little faster.

The boost came down to 13/14lbs. max at WOT with the WMI running wide open but felt just as fast if not a little bit more so, maybe it was just smoother and it was my imagination.

I will post vids of it running and off to show the difference in EGTs and to find out if it really is any faster or not.
 
#6 ·
2GPH isn't neary enough. I run any where between 5gph to 10GPH nozzle.
I have a flow meter on my system and can tell you I usually run 3 to 4gph when just crusing down the highway using my water saver settings.
For maximum pulling power I max out my 7gph flow meter.
On a hard pull you would have no problem running 10 to 12 gph.
When you are running high RPMs, say in 2 or 3rd gear going up a hill running high EGTs 15gph even 20gph may not be too much.
Only problem is you empty your water tank real fast doing that.
 
#7 · (Edited)
2GPH isn't neary enough. I run any where between 5gph to 10GPH nozzle.
2GPH is enough for the AT@T under normal/moderate driving conditions where it doesn't go above 8lbs. of boost. When I run WOT it still helps to keep EGTs below 1,400* at around 1,200* at 14 lbs. of boost.

I'm going to run both nozzles, a 10 GPH primary full on by fifteen lbs. with the 2 GPH coming on full at the same boost level and adjust accordingly when I put the HX40 back on until the compound setup is complete.

If I need more I can always get a bigger nozzle, but with the intercooler reinstalled I think I'll be fine.

I hold 19 gallons and sould be able to make heavy tow trips one way [4/500] miles without stopping to fill up.
 
#8 ·
How much pressure do you run?
 
#9 ·
200 psi at full duty cycle.
 
#10 ·
The flow rates for the nozzles I'm running are rated at 150 psi. and add about 15/20% more flow at 200psi. according to the flow chart posted on their website.

At full duty cycle I'm likely running 18/20 gpm. with the 10 and 2 gpm nozzles.
 
#11 ·
Ok that will do it.
I am use to much lower pressures on larger nozzles.
I run between 50 and 70psi most of the time, so I stick on larger nozzles rated for xGPH@100psi.
Its easier on the pump that way. I run the system for hours on end.
I also use a pressure regulator and surge tank to deliver steady pressure.
 
#12 ·
I run between 50 and 70psi most of the time, so I stick on larger nozzles rated for xGPH@100psi.
By running low pressure and big nozzles you aren't getting the atomization that would be what you need for optimal performance.

You also run the risk of having droplets form when what you want is a fine mist.

You might want to step up the pressure or get nozzles that are rated for lower than 100psi.
 
#13 ·
I was running higher pressure lower number nozzles at first, then when I put on the flow meter I backed the pressure off because I didn't know the rating on it.
The lower pressure didn't seem to effect anything.
I ran it for about a month at full pressure with no flow meter.

I kitchen sink tested the whole setup on and off every day for about a week before I ever ran it on my truck. The nozzles mist very well even at 50psi.
Thats why I wasn't worried about backing the pressure off. I tested the nozzles from 110psi all the way down to 20psi. Anything below 25-30psi isn't what I would call mist.
 
#14 ·
Oil pan 4, one thing to consider when kitchen sink testing, is that your kitchen sink isn't pressurized. You need to subtract the boost pressure from your nozzle pressure. On a 6.5 it won't be much, but for a higher boost application, you can drop your flow alot with low pump pressure and high boost pressure. That said, most nozzles are rated to 40psi. Increasing it will make the mist finer.
 
#15 ·
Ahh, you have not read my build posts.
I sink tested with the pump, surge tank, solenoid, water pressure regulator* and nozzles that are on my truck now.
The only thing different now is more lines, wireing and the flow meter.

That water pressure regulator* is modified with a boost port to account for boost.
I tested that too, put 10psi on it and the water pressure went up by about 10psi.
As far as I know I am the only person running water that is pressure regulated and out of a a surge tank, with boost referencing.
I replaced all those electonics with a 1/8'' pipe threadded 1/8'' hose barb and a water pressure regulator.
 
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