Im looking for info. or anyone that is or has run straight water with twins...
Looking mainly for pros and cons... Is there any benefit? Would it help any more with egt drops, or power gains?
Think this would be worth it? Any chance of hurting engine?
Any opinions on what kind of kit to go with?
Any info would be great... Thanks
Water injection does not directly add power. it allows for you to up the boost, and timing because water injection cools down the heat that is generated when its compressed.
I personal believe a motor is safer and more reliable when running water injection.
I understand how water works, and how water/methanol works. But won't running either, especially the mix increase cylinder pressures? And your twins are already packing a lot of air in there. Unless your running a built motor with studs I thinking your really pushing the limits of what a stock headgasket will hold. And also the additional cylinder pressure puts more load on your rods too.
Ok - the whole water/meth thing is all new to me and I am trying to find ways to keep my engine - which is my source of income - last the longest, be the most efficent, and get me the best possible mileage. So - what are the pros and cons? Just how much water/meth would one of these systems consume?
Its a fact motors last longer when the iat, cylinder air temp, and egt are cooler This is why this is a good investment for anyone that pulls with there truck.
depending on how you drive and what your towing you can go threw 2-10 gallons on a tank of fuel.
Pro
DevilsOwn's Benefits Include:
* Increase horsepower safely by 10-15%.
* Lower air temperatures by 50-200+ degrees.
* Decrease cylinder temperatures up to 300 degrees.
* Reduce the effects of heat soak in warmer climates.
* Allows you to safely run more boost and timing.
* Reduces carbon and helps maintain a clean combustion chamber.
* Increases octane at user programmable boost levels.
Cons
Keeping the tank full
some people have issues with tuning
systems failing
How compatable is it with EFI live? I usually tow around 12K which is my 4 horse trailer when it is loaded, when I am delivering new RV's it is between 8K and 15K, I drive like a grandma - 63 is my usual speed on the interstate, but I can be anywhere from the flats of Kansas to the Cascade mountains.
Be sure you have enough pressure delivery to overcome your boost. Lots of 200psi, 225 psi, 250 psi kits out there, BUT make sure that they deliver enough volume and pressure to keep up with your nozzles. From what I have seen most do not. They might make rated psi with a single nozzle, but that is about it.
I have used one of the major kits in the past and am looking for something with more capability. I recently removed it and found it was adjusted way low and pulsing on and off. I added one nozzle and was able to get near rated psi. Added a second and had 100 psi. I'd have to dig up the instructions, but I'm pretty sure it came with 3 nozzles (2 large and one small) and recommendations to use up to the 2 large flow units OR all three.
I think you kinda missunderstood my post. yes you did see an increase in power but it was minor compared to the potential of what these water/methanol systems are capable of allowing. The increase in power you saw was, timing increase. 0 out that iat table and it would not produce any hp gains. Running cooler intake air temps you computer adding more timing for you. Its what you want and also does produce the best fail safe on the market. when i tune a motor i get pretty aggressive and pretty much start pulling 1 deg of timing on each cell "about 10degs" starting at 100 degs. If the water injection runs out and the temps rise then the timing starts to get pulled out pretty quick. When you increase the boost is when the big hp numbers come into play.
Kennedy yes i believe there are people in my industry that are very quick to take peoples money and not fully test/ or explain how things work. I like to test things. Kinda one reason i am here. These systems don't hold pressure like people believe they do. I attached a flow chart to show you how the first 14gph of nozzle size works. Pressure comes down even further with more nozzle size. At a certain point these systems need to have some upgrades to keep the pressure up.
FWI you always need atleast 40psi for the nozzle to produce the proper mist on top of the max boost and then another 16psi for our check valve. Some others do use higher like 22psi check valves. Not sure why when engines can't produce 15psi of vacuum. So if you make 50psi of boost you need 106psi of system pressure min to function properly.
If your system is pulsing with a nozzle larger than 3gph than there is an issue somewhere or the adjuster was adjusted wrong. I know i have sent some out with it wrong before i relised the pump manufacture was not doing it properly. You can see in the flow chart where the limit the pressure below 3gph on the 150 and 250 psi pumps.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Diesel Place
5.3M posts
218.8K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Chevrolet and GMC diesel truck owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about duramax engines, performance, builds, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!